The next day we left Vadez to the bears and headed back to Tok, happy in the knowledge that we had seen and experienced what we wanted from Alaska. After an overnight stop at Tok we excitedly headed for the Canadan border via the rather strange gold mining settlement of Chicken.
From Chicken, my adrenaline starts to flow as we ride the "Top of the World Highway" - a very windy gravel road that seems to climb to the heavens, once again things go quiet on the autocom as Em concetrates as hard on the sheer drops as I do the roads. After a while the Canadian border appears, a small border post at the top of the road signals the end of our Alaskan adventure. Bring on the Yukon!
Top of the world highway
When your trip hangs on whether countries will actually allow you in, borders seem to become quite nervous affairs. We pull up and confirm to the nice lady that yes we are Brits and that no we dont have any firearms or drugs and after checking our passports we are waived on our way - why was I so nervous I thought? I guess that its because we are new to this, but we are to get plenty of practice on this trip.
From the border the highway of gravel and big views (and even bigger drops) continues until we reach the Yukon river and cross over to the town of Dawson.
Dawson City grew up out of the gold that was found in the area and is like going back in time, as you approach a paddle steamer is moored on the river and the streets are gravel / mud that disect buildings that look straight out of a John Wayne film. As we take in the sights of main street, a local walks out in front of us determined to join the thousands of other road kill splatered across the front of the bike - not the best start to our visit, I manage not to hit him, but then his response makes me wish I had.
It takes us a while to secure a bed for the night, which turns out to be caused by the fact the town is full of goldpanners! Apparantly gold panning champions from around the World had decsended on Dawson for the World Championships - I kid not.
We take a couple of days in Dawson, getting some rest and probably more importantly giving each other some space and time away from each other. This gives me the chance to enter the swing doors of the saloon and sample the local ale while talking all things gold with those around me - this really is a very strange town, but as the beer flowed, I kinda started to like it.
The Downtown Hotel
All too soon I get that feeling again - I want to get back on the bike and see whats down the road, without the help of alcohol Em has not warmed to Dawson so is as eager as I am to hit the tracks. Once again we find ourselves heading south, this time on the Klondike Highway to our campground near Carmacks, with another 250 miles completed - this is turning out to be our average - we set up the tent alongside the Yukon river and settle down with a brew and enjoy the setting.
It was a cold and mainly sleepless night thanks to the locals enjoying a party nearby but we quickly got packed up - I am really starting to enjoy the routine of making and breaking camp, I guess with no work to manage, I have set about managing and organising much of the daily routine. I realise that this need to control everything is not good teamwork and after discussion we work out who's skills are best suited to what tasks and I promise Em that in future I will share the toys.
The scenery we have rode through so far in the Yukon has been the familiar trees, rivers and big mountains but now mixed with more lakes and the odd open space. Our destination for the day is Whitehorse, a fairly large city where we plan to take a couple of days to catch up on emails and for me to give the bike some much deserved tlc.
In Whitehorse Em gets to work on our kit, while I go downtown to find a new rear tyre, tyres are fairly easy to find on route, but if you are fussy and looking for a particular brand then you have to be prepared to wait a couple of days. As it turns out after a bit of a search I get lucky, a Yamaha dealer has the TKC 80 I am looking for - they keep them in stock due to the amount of travellers passing through, but they could not fit it.
So armed with my new tyre I do a deal with a local tyre centre (they will fit the tyre if I remove the wheel) and second time lucky (first time they put it on the wrong way round) after refiting the wheel we are good to go.
Our next stop is Watson Lake where we grab the pictures of the signpost forest - it was started by a guy in the army who was posted here during the war, he put up a post showing the miles to his home town and people have been adding to it ever since. Its a fun stop, but more of a overnight stopover getting us ready for another of those roads that I just have to ride - the Stewart Cassier Highway.
Darren and I were keen to leave Alaska and move onto pastures new, as Darren mentions above we set out on the road to Chicken on the Taylor Highway. The road soon turns to gravel and is completely desserted, however the views are better as the brush isn't as thick.
I was really looking forward to visiting Chicken as they are a completely self sufficient community. The town was supposed to be called Ptarmigan after the state bird, but the local who went to officiate the name couldn't spell it so it got called Chicken instead.
I have to say it was a bit of a disappointment, and I managed to refrain from buying the 'I got laid in Chicken' sticker.
As soon as we leave Chicken and continue, the road turns nasty, it's thick in loose gravel, one lane wide with tight turns up the mountainside and sheer high drops to our right. We are about a foot away from the edge and I am perched precariously on the back with all the weight, feeling the familar slide of the bike side to side and starting to feel rather sick.
Thankfully this doesn't last too long before we hit the Top of the World Highway, which is an amazing road. You really do feel like you are on top of the world looking down. Again it is high with big drops, but they aren't as sheer and there are a few trees to break your fall.
We cross the border and start to descend into the valley with Dawson City in the distance and the Yukon River in between. Rounding the corner expecting to find a bridge into the town we stop abruptly in a queue of RV's and trucks only to find out that we have to catch a ferry across the river to the town. The ferry is about two trucks wide and three trucks long. They shoehorn us in on the end between the trucks and before I have time to jump off it has set sail. The ferry floor is wet and slippery and we have no choice but to sit as still as possible as it swings around to the other side. Give me sheer drops anyday- the thought of the bike going over and me toppling into the river was terrifying -especially considering the weight of my bike kit and boots - I would sink like a stone.
Waiting for the Ferry
Once off the other side, we take 5 mins out before continuing into Dawson.
Finding a room was difficult and I started to worry that it was because we were bikers and covered in mud. After a helpful visit to the Visitors Centre, we get into a basic B&B in town.
As Darren says this place is weird like you are in a western. Add to that the 'Gold Panners' everywhere in odd outfits and strange hats, it really is surreal. Again, I was disappointed by the place, mainly because you couldn't get a decent drink and was keen to move on.
We camp on the Yukon River that night and wake up to a freezing morning, which thankfully means no mossies.
Yukon River Sunset
Our stop in Whitehorse the following day proves useful as I persuade Darren to let me buy a laptop (finally I have my own toy!) which turns out to be even cheaper than we expected thanks to the exchange rate in our favour.
We spend another day uploading photos and blogs then head on to Watson Lake.
We stop at the sign post forest and have a good look around before heading to our lodging, the local campsite was closed for the season already so we find a motel.
Sign post Forest
Next day see's us heading out and across into British Columbia on another infamous road - the Stewart Cassiar Highway...
From Watson Lake we head off for Stewart on the Stewart Cassiar Highway. After a detour at the Post Office to mail home another box of stuff we don't need, we turn onto the highway.
Straight away the road is really patchy and bumpy with the usual gravel every mile or two. The brush or forest here is really thick - straight away it feels like bear country. It is really enclosed as the trees are tall and the road is one lane wide. I feel isolated and in the middle of nowhere straightaway. This feeling gets worse the deeper we go and the less traffic we see.
After about 2 hours of trees and nothing else, I start to see glimpses of blue between them -some really big lakes. Then the views start to open out with mountains, lakes and trees, the combination is beautiful.
There is nothing on this road at all, no services, no petrol, no cafes - nothing. Just as we are starting to panic about fuel and the amber light confirms we are nearly out, we hit a small village. We stop for the fuel and a drink, then realise that there is a restaurant 50 feet away. Stopping there for a nice meal of the house buffet, we then head off at just after 6pm to our stop for the night in Iskut. The sun is getting low behind the mountains and I start worrying about it getting dark quickly out here. Then we come across awful road works, it is gravelly, muddy and very wet for some reason. We slide around for a while whilst trying to get up the steep hill, then down it, then we hit a bridge which is by far the worst. It has a metal gauze/ grid type floor which you can see the river 60 feet below through, it is shiny and slippery and basically every gap in the grid doesn't work with our knobbly tyres so some bits get stuck in the holes as we traverse it.
We finally decide to set up camp in a campground at the foot of a Mountain. It is a lovely and quiet spot as we are the only campers there.
Em has just mentioned the first day, but it actually took two days to complete the Stewart Cassier Highway, the second day from Iskut dawned cloudy and wet and after packing up the tent we set about trying to dodge the rain.
No luck though, we spend the next 4 hours riding on roads that get worse in tune with the weather. At one point we are riding on a road that is still under construction and is very wet, visibilty through the visor turns to zero - no fun when you are trying to pick the only line that will keep you upright. I keep a close eye on the fuel gauge whch has been flashing yellow for the last 30 miles, I know we need a fuel stop within the next 14 miles or a difficult day could potentially become a nightmare.
A fun road
Add into the fact that hands and feet are starting to become numb, the prospect of putting up the wet tent at the end of the day doesn't fill me with glee, I tell myself to get us first to a gas station then a motel to get warm and dry - this lifts my spirits in time for another metal floored bridge like the one Emma mentioned from the day before. What a surface, the combination of wet enduro tyres on the metal grid makes for interesting riding.
Thankfully around the corner we find the only fuel stop in the area (one other is closed for work) alongside the pumps is a rather posh fishing lodge complete with spa. After filling up with fuel we grab a hot drink and drip copious amounts of water onto the lodge floor as we sit, all the while I try to convince Em that maybe this would be a good place to stay.
Shes having none of it however, with an eye on the budget Em tells me that I should have wired up my heated vest (she has a point) as with her vest on, her mood and temperature is a great deal better than mine and insists we press on to Stewart in the rain.
Several hours later after passing through more stunning scenery that made an appearance through the rain occasionally, we reached Stewart.
Cold and wet we find a cheap motel to get ourselves and kit dry. In the hot shower, I think back to Ems commitment to the budget and smile - she was right of course.
Next day dawns with a bit of a luxury - a full breakfast and with full stomachs we ride out of Stewart some 3 miles to the border of Alaska. We cross from Canada back to Alaska and its one of those borders were the difference between the countries is vast. From tarmac and well built buildings we cross over to mud/gravel tracks and wooden shacks.
The reason for the detour is to visit the town of Hyder, it is here that the wildlife trust has an area that you can safely view bears in the wild as they feed at the river. We spend about an hour waiting and see nothing, I start to think back to the boat trip and not seeing the Whales and think that the Alaskan wildlife has something against us.
Then Em grabs my arm and points to a nearby tree, I look on in amazment as a Sow chases her two cubs up the tree before joining them. She is protecting her young from a male down by the river, so for the next 30 mins we watch the three bears sit in the tree, not 20ft away from us (maybe 40ft from Em as she is now backing away!) - a real privilege.
Bears in the woods
After another 3 mile ride we are back at the border once again telling the nice Canadian lady that we don't own a firearm, two minutes later we are back in Stewart and looking at the GPS for our next destination - a campsite in a native indian reserve called Moricetown.
As we leave Stewart I spot something crossing the road in front of us and slow down, its a Black Bear and Em gets the pic.
Bear crossing (just!)
The road to Moricetown cannot live up to the sights and fun of the Stewart Cassier Highway, but does have two more furry highlights. Rounding a bend a large male Black Bear sits looking at us as we pass, then a bit further down the road I spot something else black beside the road - as we approach I slow down and eventually stop and can't quite believe our luck. Another Sow with two cubs, she is not worried about the bike and sits looking at us, while the two cubs stand up on their hinds as if to pose, just 10ft away. Not wanting to put them or us in a situation that could be uncomfortable, I release the clutch and we ride off.
Our camp for that night is the Canyon Falls campground, which is again desserted.
Canyon river falls
We attempt to build a big fire to keep the mossies away, but the wood is too wet so we retire to the tent to play cards. After a good nights sleep we pack up and head off for a short ride to Smithers where we had planned some time out.
We are up fairly early and away from the Moricetown campsite, stopping to admire the Canyon falls as we leave.
The road is nothing special and after an hour or so we reach Smithers.
This is a nice town as it has one main drag (road in and out) and a small high street with interesting shops. Darren finds a great motel just near the high street and as the room isn't ready till mid afternoon we hang out in Macdonalds drinking coffee. We meet a really friendly canadian (trust me there weren't many) who tells us this bear story...
A giant grizzly that lived on the hills just out side of Smithers for years eating the cattle. He was the scourge of the farm world and farmers tried to catch him for years to no avail, he was too clever.
Finally 2 National Park Ranger's (one was this guy's cousin apparently) were put on the case. After months of tracking they manage to trap the bear in a wire leg noose, as the Rangers appoach, the bear broke free and ran for them, with only 7 feet between them they shoot the bear dead.
This bear is now stuffed and on display at the local airport, so we decide to head off and see it to kill some time.
One very large gizzly bear & me
We then return to the motel, stopping at a local falls which look pretty. The road up is- you guessed it- crappy muddy gravel and wet!
We hike up a mile to the falls in our biker gear which is hard going, then wonder why we bothered as the view is obscured by trees.
The stop in Smithers was a good one, as Em had some girly time (read, long baths, get away from bike & Darren) I took a walk around. It was actually the first time that I had time to myself where I wasn't doing something for the bike or trip - so I made the most of it by sampling the local bar and enjoyed a few pints. I also purchase the big knife that Em insisted we have for camping - just in case I can summon the courage to "check what that noise was" outside of the tent at 3am.
Feeling rested, we decide that the next destination, the town of Prince George, could be reached in one day if we pushed it, meaning a day closer to 300 miles in the saddle - a bit more than our average.
The road is tree lined for large areas meaning our view is limited, this makes the day drag a little and I am thankful for the ipod connected to the Autocom. We stop for lunch in a small town and manage to find a Chinsese resturant and so after a good chinese beef curry we set off for the final 170 miles to Prince George.
Along the roadside I see a placard advertising a place called Fort St James - an historic site that featured exhibits and people in period dress and I know this is right up Ems street, so after a quick chat, I thumb the left indicator and a high mileage day becomes even higher.
Fort St James is in a lovely spot on the edge of Stewart Lake.
It was a centre for trade and commerce in the 19th Century, chiefly the fur trade. It has been restored to a snapshot in time of 1896, with everthing as it would have been including period costumes worn by staff and many interesting items, set out in different buildings of the Fort. It was a lovely place to visit and the staff were very friendly and interesting to talk to.
Back to Darren:
After Fort St James, which turns out to be a good day out for all, I realise we still have a long way to go to reach Prince George and the clouds look rather unfriendly. We managed to skirt the weather front for the next 2 hours, but inevitably the final hour run into town was to see us get soaked, by this time its dark and we have covered well over 300 miles - so a motel it is then.
The motel room looks more like a chinese laundry as we try to get kit dry, but with the heating cranked up next day we are able to put on dry kit, ready for the days ride which should be exciting as we are heading for Robson Park and eventually Jasper in the National Park.
The sun is out, the scenery no longer obscured and we have a good run to Robson Park, the road to it gives some perspective to the size of Mount Robson itself, its north Americas highest peak and today just the top is shrouded in cloud.
Approaching Mount Robson
The final part of the day sees us heading for Jasper, on the way we cross into Alberta and pay our entry fee into the park - the scenery is breathtaking and gives us a glimpse of what the run down to Banff from Jasper may have to offer.
We camp just outside Jasper in Whistler state campground and use this as a base for the next few days as we explore Jasper park and the town itself. The town is more upmarket than we had seen so far, being a ski resort out of season and a tourist trap during the summer months.
Jasper park has a lot to offer and we rode most of the scenic byways to each of the numerous lakes, mountains and rivers - on route we saw a very large Stag by the roadside and the odd moose but very little other wildlife, this place seems to be more about the scenery.
After two nights in Whistler campground we pack up ready to ride down through the National Park to Banff, I manage to get this pic of Em doing her moisturising etc - who says a girl cant look after herself on the road!
I had been really looking forward to the ride to Banff and we had a full day ahead of us as we first stop at the stunning Athabasca Falls.
Its then onto the road itself - The Icefields Parkway, words cannot do this place justice, wherever you look you see high snow covered peaks, glaciers, lakes that are so blue that they look almost unreal and round each turn in the road it gets better.
We arrive at another stop - the Columbia Icefields and get the oppurtunity to walk out to the glacier itself and even to walk onto it. At this point it starts to snow and your breath is short giving some indication of the altitude we are at.
Walking on the Glacier
The day from there is full of "wow" and "look at that" comments over the autocom as we try to take in the scene.
Another twisty road
We come across an area of road that is virtualy blocked by tourists who have stopped to look at a Black Bear thats close to the roadside, its all camaras and people running around trying to get a look - until the Bear starts to eat one of the wing mirrors and everyone panics. In the melee, one fleeing pedestrian manages to run out in front of us - I thought it was the wildlife I had to look out for...
We arrive at Banff fairly late, the town is similar in feel to Jasper and after the recent camping we feel that an Inn with a hot bath might be a priority, before trying to get something to eat in the many bars.
I am more than happy with finding a curry house and Em finds her Estee Lauder in a posh shop so all is well. The plan is to use Banff as a base for a couple of days as we explore this end of the National Park.
First up we ride through the Bow Valley back up to Lake Louise before taking some time looking at the town.
Lake Louise is another stunning location and we have a picnic on the lake edge, its a hot day and we get some very strange looks due to our bike clothing - its a second skin to me now, but we must look out of place to some.
That night back at the town, the clouds thicken and next morning the mountains have turned white - the first snows of the season have arrived, its time to head south...
After Darren and I having a great time in Jasper and Banff and feeling that we had seen everything they had to offer we moved on.
This was actually a detour which I wanted to make to Calgary in Alberta as I have always wanted to go there, although I couldn't tell you why that is. Maybe it's just a place I have heard of so many times which made me want to visit it.
We decide after looking at the map that we can do a day trip there and back, then pass back by Banff on our way down to the USA.
We pass through the Rockies and along a straight road, which after 2 hours brings us into Calgary. This is by far the biggest city we have been in since the trip started and I have to admit that being in so much traffic with tight turns and traffic lights is quite unnerving after being in the back country for so long. I think I much prefer being 'out in the sticks' if I am honest.
After a drive round and visiting some local attractions we head back.
The scenery going back to Banff was worth going to Calgary for alone, from this direction you can see the Rockies stretching across the horizon and gradually getting larger as we approach.
The Rockies seen from Calgary
After passing Banff and continuing South we reach our stop over that night at Radium Hot Springs. We stop at a really nice restaurant called 'The Old Salzberg' and enjoy some German/ Swiss food which is a welcome break from giant burgers and fries. After helping Darren eat his pudding, it's off to find a campground for the night.
We follow a sign which takes us on a small track high above the town itself and find a really nice State campground in Kootenay National Forest. As we start to unpack the tent and get pitched a really friendly guy from the Netherlands comes over and says he thinks we could use a beer, then gives us two cans of ice cold lager. We are touched by his gesture and travellers spirit, helping out other travellers far from home is always a nice thing to do.
Two cans of lager = 1 happy Darren
After a restful night's sleep and another freezing cold night, we head back into town to the Radium Hot Springs.
This is a large outdoor swimming pool filled with hot water drawn directly from the thermal springs. It was lovely, like a hot bath and very relaxing, we stayed in there for over an hour!
After shoehorning ourselves back into our bike kit, we set off South once more.
This was a nice road that had lots of twisty turns, trees and now started to open out into parkland. The grass here was a straw colour and it was turning warmer now that we were leaving the mountains behind.
We find a campsite for the night in a ski resort called Fearnie. The site is in a forest on a hill and a state park area, which is a nice place to be with tall trees, but very limited facilities.
That night is freezing and neither of us get much sleep. A train further down in the valley keeps us awake with it's eerie whistles which echo through the trees like a horror movie.
That morning we pack up camp early and head for the USA border with warmer weather in mind as we chase the sun south...
Our veteran travellers share their tips (and great stories) for staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.
"A fantastic, informative and inspirational DVD."
"It's brilliant - thank you very much!"
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'ONTHEROAD' on your order when you checkout.
Next HU Events
- Canada West: Aug 21-24
- USA North Carolina: Sept. 4-7
- France Mini: Sep 5-7
- Canada Ontario: Sept. 11-14
- NEW! UK - Haggs Bank: Sept. 19-21
- USA California: Sept. 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!