Thursday 4th May 2007

Well today I have been getting ready for my trip to Germany and the meeting of Los Amigos

I still had to sort out my power take off points in order to provide power for the GPS and the computer. I would like to add a couple of extra ones too because I am always thinking of other devices I can hook up, just wonder if the generator will have enough power to run all of these devices! Having connected everything up, they don’t work. I am not surprised because there are 3 tags on each socket and it was a foregone conclusion I would choose the wrong 2. So it was, that at the garage I bought some batteries instead. Back to the flat, pack the panniers and ‘did I forget anything’ ?

Route: 635 miles (1016km)
Hunstanton - King’s Lynn; - Newmarket; M11;M25-Dartford Crossing; M25-M20; M20-Folkston – Channel Tunnel; Channel Tunnel-Calais; E40- Dunkirk – Ostend –Ghent – Brussels – R0 Ring Road – E40-Leuven – E314-Aachen – A4 – Cologne – E31- Bonn – Mainz – Worms – Mannheim – E50 – Weinheim – K11 – Neder Leibersbach – Ober Leibersbach

On the road at 2-30pm, about 1½ hours later than I had intended, but enough time to catch the shuttle. The run down to Folkestone was uneventful, and the weather was beautiful, if a little colder than of late. Due to the lateness I did not stop at the petrol station at the terminal but went straight to check in. I needn’t have worried, still 1½ hrs to wait, time for the lunch I missed and relaxed cigar in the sun out of the wind.

This time I was not stopped at immigration, just waved, or waived, straight through, no sniffer check either. The other change was that instead of holding all the bikes back, as happened last time I travelled on the shuttle, I just followed the cars. Once shut up in the tin box with everyone else, I needed to put in my padding for the motorcycle trousers. I was wearing long johns, but I think it was still a surprise to the other occupants to see me struggling out of my trousers in the carriage. Job completed I struck up a conversation with a pleasant Dutchman by the name of Martin Roets, (sorry Martin if I got your surname wrong) and a pleasant young English couple from Cookham whose name I omitted to get, (sorry). All showed great interest in my proposed journey and said they would check out my blog, so if you did, Hi, nice meeting you.

So petrol in Calais and now I know what happened to Adam last year, I too exited on the back road to City Europe, however I, like him, had wandered these roads searching and knew now what I was looking for.

The E40 sped by with me recalling the past journey on this road and this time I had no problem with the R0, Brussels ring road. I forked off at Leuven, just as Adam had done last summer by mistake, and at about 2.00am I stopped just short of Aachen to see if I could get 40winks at a picnic table. I grabbed about an hour, but woke with a stiff neck. There was car parked close by and the driver was wandering about killing time, so, seeing his interest in the bike I struck up a conversation with him. He was of Italian extraction, his father emigrating for the mine work offered in this part of Europe. He himself had just finished his shift making brake pipes for VW, but not wanting to wake his family at this early hour, was killing time in this picnic area. After an interesting conversation regarding my plans for a world trip, he left, but reversed up to me and gave me a cake, ‘For your breakfast.’ What a nice man.

I got lost around Cologne (Koln) as I could not merge into a cross-flow junction that materialised in front of me. After an impressive detour in the rush hour traffic I was once more on my planned route. I had the GPS on, but you can’t read it in the dark or when it is facing away from you in the tank bag!!!!! Anyway what does ‘getting lost’ mean? Getting lost is directly proportional to time, in my opinion. If you have little time available and are at an unknown location, then you are badly lost, even if you are just a few hundred metres from your target point. On the other hand you can be hundreds of miles away from where you planned to be, but with no time limit, ‘being lost’ loses it’s meaning, you are just ‘somewhere else for the time being’.

Reaching Mannheim I only had sketchy directions, but remembered it was Ober- Leiber something or other. The Luck of the Seven Blind Bastards was with me (Sam says I have inbuilt radar) and almost by magic I rode down the track to the campsite and the group of people sitting casually on the patio drinking beer or coffee. Introductions were made by our hosts Jens and his partner Christina, and I discovered that this was very much a German party, with me as the only Englishman present. To be fair there was a Argentinean, whose name I found to be unpronounceable, several Dutch people and a notable Austrian.. I found a good place for my tent and before all else made a nice hot cup of coffee.

Then I had the pleasure of meeting Luna, a young Austrian lady who has travelled extensively in the Americas, she later gave an interesting presentation of her travels, with several asides in English for my benefit. http://www.travelluna.blogspot.com/ A tall rangy German named Michael took me under his wing to help me understand what was happening during the presentations although both Jens, with his video about a Treasure Hunt by motorcycle in Rumania, and Luna, made sure I was included overall. It is easier to make connections in your head than it is to vocalise them, so despite my lack of German, I got most of the information coming through. The local jokes at each others expense were the only thing that left me puzzled, but such a small part as to be of no account. I later asked questions of those present and learned a few tips. Those I talked to were very interested in my plans and I had an enjoyable evening, albeit still feeling slightly like a fish out of water. This feeling evaporated as we continued our conversations during the interval between the presentations and I could feel myself slowly being absorbed into the group. As in Widooie talking took the edge off of my tiredness and I found myself making my bed at gone 11.00pm, 41 hours with only 1 hours sleep!!

Saturday 6th May
I had a really good nights sleep, the airbed makes a real difference to my comfort. A breakfast, of bread rolls, cheese and ham, with lots of coffee found me talking with Wolfgang < www.mr-wooli.de > who spent some time in Goose Bay, Labrador, and warned me of the black fly (which I knew about) and the ‘Bulldozers, flesh eating beetles (which I didn’t). Having paid the in the E30 charge for the 2 nights camping and breakfasts, I needed to get some more money out of the ATM. So while the main group went of for a ride-out,

I went to explore the local town of Birknau to find an ATM. The town is set in a valley cut through by a little river, and although the day was hot and humid, I had a pleasant walk through it. One thing struck me; the little amount of graffiti was all fresh! It looks either to be a new phenomenon, or one that is pounced on by the good burghers of Birknau and extinguished immediately. This in my opinion is the only way to deal with these selfish displays of identity crisis, that and erecting a hoarding expressly for the purposes of graffiti decoration. Otherwise the town was a balanced mix of old and new, with clean streets and that fresh, well cared for look that one expects from small German towns. There was an impressive town hall, large town park and a little railway station. To my surprise, coming from the 24/7 culture of England, all of the shops were closed, except for the Aldi (Dutch) supermarket. Walking back down the main street I practiced the German sentence in my head to ask someone for the ATM. ‘Shoelenzee bitter, mein Deutcher sprakken ist kinderliech, happer diese dorf ein ATM?’ I have found the phrase ‘mein Deutcher sprakken ist kinderliech’ (My German speaking is childlike’) to bring a smile to peoples faces, and that is the first thing you want, a friendly response. I like to give the impression that although I am ignorant of their language, I am at least trying, and not relying on the ubiquitous English tongue. But I am shy, and pass several opportunities by when a man pushes out a motor scooter from his driveway and I skirt around him. A perfect opportunity, after all we share two wheeled transport, and although there is a gulf between the two modes, it is a positive link. I turn around, but he has disappeared, leaving his scooter parked squarely across the pavement! Such an inconsiderate man I will not ask, I will ask another, this at least puts the problem of actually accosting someone back by a few minutes. Further up the street two cyclists catch my eye, as one holds his companions bike while the other presses a button in a doorway and disappears into its glassy interior. Above, in pale blue letters ‘VolksBank’ Of course, most ATMs are set inside a separate lobby, not outside as in the UK. With a better behaved population, they can do that. What is more, when my turn comes to use the ATM I get a choice of 5 languages to do the transaction in. It is often like this in continental Europe, Why are we not as courteous in Britain?

With my money secured, I walk back through the park, past the school, up the little cobbled streets and back to the train station where my bike is parked. A curious thing, in the station car park is a row of kennels, obviously for the use of those parking there. Do they leave their dogs there while they nip into Mannheim on the train? This is surely much better than leaving them shut up in a car for a few hours, but wouldn’t they be better off in their own kennel in their own back garden? The answer has to be yes, but how many people who have dogs are considerate enough to give them a kennel in the garden? Not many.

Back at the campsite I threw together a quick, thick, pancake and drizzle on the caramel syrup bought at the supermarket. No sign of real maple syrup but this ‘treacle’ is a good substitute.

Later I wander up to the hotel for the evening’s slide shows, nodding and returning the greetings from those with whom I have previously spoken. Obtaining my pils, I venture once more out onto the patio and hear an unmistakably English voice. Making my way towards the speaker as casually as I can, without making it too obvious that I have homed in like a guided missile for those familiar tones and inflections, I introduce myself, and make friends with Andy and Miranda, who are to give a presentation of their trip from Singapore to Holland, where they now live.

Andy is nervous, never having given a presentation before, vowing that this is a one off for his friend Jens. We settle into our chairs and I find myself next to Rene and his son from Holland. We are soon all firm friends, in the matter of minutes it seems, just that magic thing that happens between people sometimes. Andy starts his slide show and I am amazed both at the fact that he and Miranda did this epic journey on Suzuki 125cc bikes - for gods sake, - and the incredible scenery of Nepal, Northern India and Kashmir. Most amusing were the accounts of a singular argument between Andy and Miranda that consisted almost solely of one expletive bandied back and forth. This argument was thus constructed due to the high altitude and lack of breath Andy and Miranda had to express more than these explosive invectives, and ended with ‘Well give us a fag then.’ The other memorable amusing moment was when Andy presented a slide of……well I’ll save that one, just in case Andy changes his mind and gives another presentation some time. During the interval while we waited for the next presentation, and replenished our glasses, I managed to congratulate Andy, he is a natural. The slides were impressive, his narration concise and amusing and conveyed some of the feeling that they both felt for the ride. No one but he seemed to have noticed that his 40 minute presentation had overrun to 2 hours, so immersed were we in his account of this truly great journey. Another two friends to add to my growing list.

Following Andy there was a slick slide show, using real slides and a sound system, but perhaps it was that it was totally in German or perhaps it was due to a less emotional input and more factual presentation of places visited, but beautiful as it was it did not have the verve of the Englishman’s story.

Sunday 7th May

Time to pack up and get on the road, I have the longest distance to travel and must get on the road as soon as I can. Funny thing, I am almost the last to finish packing and leave the camping field. Talking, my star ability has seen to it that I wave farewell to my new found friends at midday, not 10am as I thought it would be!

Another wrong turn and I find myself riding through the centre of Mannheim! What a beautiful city. The sky is clear, the sun shines brightly, I know I will intersect the North/South Autobahn if I continue in this westerly direction, so relax and look around. The University is magnificent, but the traffic lights change before my phone can activate the camera. Ah well there will be a picture somewhere on the web. Finding the Autobahn I head north, stopping to take pictures of the Mosel at an eating place, but no petrol.

A few kilometres up the road I see signs that I interpret as ‘Service Area’ and pull over only to find myself on small country roads and reluctant to head too far from the Autobahn searching for a spot for P& T. Ignoring a sign that seems to say ‘Works Traffic Only’, I snack in a wooded area that is obviously being logged with complete distain for my trespass.

The journey back is uneventful with the exception that near the coast of Belgium a strong wind springs up and the rain starts. I exchange a few words with another couple of UK riders who are about to depart a lay-bye as I arrive. ‘I feel like an ‘effing’ baboon, my arse is red and my arms are 6 inches longer!!’

The last miles through England are cold, wet and boring, and I trudge up the stairs thankful to be home, but really pleased that I have found such friends as all of those people in Ober Liebersbach. Los Amigos indeed, Thanks all, see you on the road sometime.

One afterword, as I stopped to open my garage door, a blue acrid smoke arose from under the front somewhere. A strap touching the exhaust, or perhaps my incomplete rewiring is about to catch fire!!!

I spent a very pleasant day saying farewell to all my friends at work, having allowed a generouse 2 hours to complete this task, I was suprised to find that 7 hours later I had not got to see everyone. the interest in my trip and well wishes are uplifting. Living with the planning everyday, one forgets how uncommon the notion of travelling around the world on a motorcycle is. It's magic.

Now with only 70 days to go I shall have to transform my preparations list into a list of things I WANT to do and a list of things I’ve GOT to do.

However the bike is now beginning to look the part with panniers, belly plate and other goodies fitted.

Things I have GOT to do.
• Insure Motorcycle. I’m waiting for a reply from a Mexican Insurance company in California. If no joy by Monday then I’ll go with Endisliegh who have insured ‘Del Boy’ who is bound for the Americas next month.
• International Driving Licence. Issued by the RAC, I need to copy my passport first and get this posted today.
• Carnet, not really required for the first half of the journey but as I need it for the second half it must be purchased while the bike is still in this country.
• Ferry Passage. Need to fix a date soon otherwise I might not get a place.
• Air Ticket. Not so urgent, as I can always get a cheap trans-Atlantic flight and travel to Halifax by train or internal flight.
• Yellow Fever, Rabies, Tick Fever jabs. My Doctors is not licence as this is a ‘live’ vaccine, and I need a certificate of inoculation. Burnham Market (6miles) and Grimstone (20mls) may do it, otherwise it’s a trip to Cambridge.(70mls)
• Bank Mandates. Have forms, will submit next week.
• Medivac Insurance. I need to check this out still.
• Sell Maisonette. Progressing. I am confident it will be completed soon.

The following are still things I WANT to do but have still not finished.

• Spare Rechargeable Batteries. Ebay beckons.
• LED Lights. I have replaced the Tail/Stop Light with an LED version, but not the Turn Signal ones yet. Ebay again.
• Heavy Duty Rear Inner Tube.. Front acquired, looks good so I will order up the rear from Dirtbikes.com
• Touring Screen. Last time I looked there were loads of them available, now zilch!!! I will keep looking.
• Power Sockets. The standard ‘Cigar Lighter’ type offered is too big, I will visit the RS or Farnell sites and get the smaller ‘phono’ types, 4 should suffice.
• Petrol Filter. Obtainable in most motor accessory outlets, but I will wait until I get the Quick Release Fuel Line Couplers and do the job in one go.
• Radiator Hoses. Moto Bins at Sleeford do these and I will take them as spares I think, not sure yet, I may replace some when I service the Water Pump.
• Cables. As spares again from Moto Bins, but ty-wrapped along the route of the existing cables
• Brake Hoses. Not on my original list, but stainless steel versions provide quicker responses as the hoses do not expand in operation like the standard ones fitted. It’s a techie thing!
• Radiator Stone Guard. I have the mesh, just needs to be fitted.
• Heated Grips and Hand shields. Ebay here I come.
• Cruise Control. Ditto
• Oil Temp Gauge. Ditto
• Gel Battery. I have decided against a Gel Battery as they die without warning, so one of the low maintenance type instead.
• Water Pump overhaul. Moto Bins soon.
• Top Box, I am waterproofing a stainless steel tool box to see if this will serve the purpose, otherwise another trip to Moto Bins.
• Malaria Tablets. I have been advised by other Adventure Travellers to wait until I get to Mexico, where they are readily available at 12p each.
• Personal Treatment Kit. I always wondered about the view of Customs officials concerning syringes in my first aid kit, but have been advised that if I get an ‘AIDs Kit’ it’s ok.
• Pack up and go. I have seriously thought about getting a skip and junking the whole house full of ‘stuff’, but family and friends have offered storage space, so I had better get the best bits packed I suppose.

That’s it, I think. Everything else has been done, or is well under way. No room for complacency, even if my arm full of needle holes is uncomfortable.

Nurse. ‘Just a little prick.’
Me. ‘It’s the fear does that!’

The Route; Part 1; Stage 4; The Great Divide

Well for better or Wurtz, I cannot cross the boarder where I planned. It would appear that there is a good reason for the roads on my Canadian maps not reaching the boarder at Wurtz, they blew up the bridge!! It seems that since 9/11 the USA have become a bit sensitive about their borders and the small border post has been closed. What if I can find a ford or something? Quote ‘They will confiscate your bike as an illegal import and throw you in goal as an illegal visitor.’ Another no brainer but thanks to ‘Stephen’ and ‘Bill Dakar’ from Red Deer, Alberta (a) for the info, I will try and get to buy them a beer when I get down that way.
BC/AB border country. Photo courtesy of 'BillDakar'

So change to the route and now heading North East from Banff along the Red Deer River to Red Deer before heading south to Calgary, Fort McLeod and crossing the border on Hwy2 Then through the north of Glacier Park to rejoin my original route at Apgar.

USA

From Glacier, South East across to Helena, Montana.(b) From Helena I want to head east on a side trip to The Little Big Horn National Park (c)to see where Col. Custer and Major Reno fought Sitting Bull and the Sioux Nation. Hopefully stay with some First Nation Crow near there at Custer National Forest

Back on a westerly course for Yellowstone Park (d) (and Yogi Bear, or is that Jellystone Park?).

There is the equivalent of UKs long distance footpath called the Great Divide National Trail that goes from Canada (Banff) nearly to Mexico (El Paso, New Mexico)

You can see more photos and the journey log at Stephen Golubs blog by clicking here or select his name from those listed at the left hand side of my blog.

I intend to follow that, both on and off road through Ohio, Oklahoma, until I reach La Jara, New Mexico. Then another side trip to the First Nation Navajo and Hopi to reach The Grand Canyon. (e)

Possibly a week here, maybe more, it’s a big area, then east along what’s left of Route 66 before branching off to reach Dallas, Texas, (f) where I want to introduce myself to a possible far relation; Rick Fairless, Strokers Chopper Motorcycles.
This is Rick and a photo of my eldest son Adam, looks like a passing resemblence to me.

Check out his website here at strokers dallas
to find out why.
or figure it out from these....

Ooops I meant these.....

At this point it may be that family and friends may fly out to spend a week sight seeing with me, we’ll have to see what the timetable is as I would like to make the HU Meeting in Copper Canyon, Mexico. (g) Could be I go there first then head back for Dallas. Not sure yet.

Mexico

Here the itinerary gets a little flaky as I want to spend some time learning Spanish, so perhaps this would make a better time for friends and family to fly out. Anyway the Pacific Coast of Mexico looks appealing.

Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica,

I have not researched Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama at the moment, they are just countries I need to travel through to get to Panama. (If anyone has some good suggestions for sights not to be missed please post to me on this site.)

Panama

The road ends in Panama so the bike and I need to take a ferry to get into South America. Two ways of doing this, as I understand. Crate the bike and get it sent airfreight, or ride it onto some old rust bucket and chance the high seas. No brainer for me, I can sit in an aeroplane anytime, but how many can say they headed off to Ecuador by ferry, sounds interesting, looks fun, and I don’t need to take the bike apart. Hopefully I can strike up a conversation with some fellow passengers.

Ecuador, Puru and Bolivia.

More research required but, Lake Titicaca and Matu Pitchu are a must as well as the WMD and the salt desert. So plenty of swanning around opportunity here in the Andes

Chile, Argentina

South through Chile and the Atacama Desert to take in the sights of the National Parks and the Route 40 to Terra del Fuago and the most southerly city of Ushuaia.
Now north again to find a freighter to fly the bike to New Zealand, and here ends part one of my journey, as I intend to fly home for a few weeks before meeting up with the bike in New Zealand.

The rest of the route, Australia, Japan, Russia, Mongolia, Eastern Europe and Scandinavia is on paper but too far away in time to be more than a wish list. The planning will give me something to do on dull nights somewhere along the way.

Now I have to start getting the bike ready, and after a 7 month lay up it started first time, (after I hooked it up to a battery as the bike one was flat!!)

So next The Bike Mods

The Route; Part 1; Stage 3; South to the USA

So Far I would have travelled about 5000 miles, 750 around Nova Scotia, Newfoundland and Labrador, and 4250 across Canada to Inuvik. Now I have to travel south to the USA.

The first part is back down the Dempster Highway from Inuvik (a) to Dawson City, (b) Camping along the way as previously. Then back down Hwy 2 Crossing the Stewart, Pelly and Yukon Rivers, camping at Fox Lake (c) south of Carmacks. Skirting the Yukon, BC boarder and heading east, I shall arrive once more at Watson Lake (d) before parting from roads I have travelled on and heading South through the mountains towards Dease Lake, camping 300 miles later at Bowser Lake (e) in BC.

Dease Lake

Oh oh…..another view of Dease Lake

Where’s my pepper spray???

About 60 miles south there will be an opportunity for me to take a 200 mile detour to visit the Bear Glacier (f) near Prince Rupert on the West coast of Canada, and I will probably take the opportunity as I plan to visit a similar one in Chile and it has a certain feel of symmetry about it.

Never the less I shall still pass through Kitwanga, Smithers and Houston (not the Texas one!!) and camp at Decker Lake.(g) With all these lakes around it’s a shame I’m not a fisherman really. Still in the Mountains I travel eastwards for a short days riding of about 150 miles to Prince George (h) where I can have a few extra hours R&R

Approaching Smithers on The Trans Canadian Hwy, taken from Google Earth

Following the Fraser River south through the mountains past such places as Stoner, Australian, Soda Creek, 150 Mile House, 100 Mile House, once again to camp overnight at Clearwater, (i) on the Thompson River. Forsaking the main road I head southeast to Adams Lake, Shuswap Lake, Arrow Lake, Albert Canyon, Rogers Pass and end up in Banff, (j) the start of the longest off road trail in America, The Great Divide Trail.

Banff

The trail closely follows the BC/Alberta Boarder until it reaches the USA at a place called Wurtz (k) on the Flathead River. My maps are a bit coy about this area as they show none of the roads actually crossing the border here, but Google Earth clearly shows a connection to Hwy 486 at Beaver Boulevard, maybe that little loop in the road at the bottom of the picture is a small border crossing post, if not I may have to retrace my route a little, but hey ho, such is life.

The total mileage now is around 7500. I have allowed 50 days for the whole Canadian Journey, about 40 travelling and 10 sightseeing or ‘maintenance days’. (Me and the bike!!). That’s an average of 150 miles per day overall or about 190 miles counting just the travelling days. This should mean that I get to Montana about the 25th August. If I’m going to make the HU meeting in Copper Canyon, Mexico, I may have to double back for my rendezvous with cousin Rick in Dallas, but let’s see what the route through USA brings in my next blog; The Route; Part 1; Stage 4; On to Mexico

The Route; Part 1; Stage 2; Trans-Canada.

Quebec Province contd…

From Baie Comeau I follow the coast down to the River Saguenay (a) and head across Quebec, Camping at Lac Opemisca nr Chapais (b); Lac Quevillion (c) ; passing through Val d’Or to Rouyn (d).

Ontario

Along straight East West roads crossing into Ontario Province and camping near Timmings (e); Klotz Lake (f); Nipigon (g) and Thunder Lake Dam.(h) close to the city of Thunder Bay on Lake Superior. I will probably need some supplies and R&R here before continuing on across the Canadian prairie with its even longer straight roads and long distances between towns.
Lake Nipigon

Winnipeg, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia,

NW then, picking up the Trans-Canadian Highway to skirt Winnipeg, (i) camping at Grand Rapids, (j) on Lake Winnipeg, on to The Pas and camping in the Pasquia Hills. (k) just over the boundary, in the Province of Saskatchewan. Along Highway 55 to Prince Albert (l) then over into Alberta to camp at Cold Lake (m) North now on Hwy88 past Slave Lake to Red Earth,(n) then west to Peace River.(o) You have to be careful about Highway numbering in North America, because they change numbers every time they cross from one Province or State into another. Some of these will be long rides compared to what I have been doing and the only thing that will interfere is the speed limits. I’m told that you can see a long road stretching out into the far distance, nothing else on it, beautiful clear weather, and a cop with a radar gun hiding behind a billboard about 2 miles in!! (Radar warning devices are illegal in Canada and can be confiscated on the spot). Westward ho for British Columbia and Fort St John, to camp at Charlie Lake. (p) Next Fort Nelson (q). and Yukon territory for Watson Lake, (r), Faro, (s),Stewart Crossing (t) and finally the gold rush town of Dawson City.(u)

Dawson City then....

Dawson City now!

Here I change to off road tyres again and head north on the Dempster Highway, for the town of Inuvik (w), camping at Peel River, Fort McPherson or Artic Red River (u), whatever takes my fancy at the time. (Wow – nearly ran out of letters so I guess that’s 20+ campsites + 10 days R&R)

Most riders who travel the road from far north to far south start at Prudow Bay, (x) but although it is the furthermost north you can go on a road, it is not the most northern town. A post office and a collection of huts is not a town in my humble opinion, sorry Deadhorse, although America gets somewhat confused as to what is the real definition of hamlet, village, town and city. Just calling Dawson a city, does not make it one. Likewise Deadhorse as a town. A place has to have certain characteristics before becoming a town or city. Inuvik on the other hand has a church, library, post office, council and schools, a proper town, and anyway who wants to follow the crowd?

Inuvic

So this is the end of Part 1; Stage 2 and I need to look south before the sleet and snow comes for the comparative warmth of The Rocky Mountains.

Next blog. The Route; Part 1; Stage 3; South to the USA.

First Aid Kit

Another essential, there is only so much you can do to treat yourself, but remember you may be in a situation where the skill is available, but they do not have the equipment. Having said that, a motorcycle paramedic I ain’t, nor do I wish to become one.

Sticking Plasters. For all those little nicks and cuts, may be used as butterfly stitches as well. I have 100 on board.
Bandages For bigger cuts, blisters boils and other such minor wounds. (Minor!!! Look I need all the blood I have inside of me at all times. OK. No exceptions. This is for the other guy. Ooh I feel faint, just going for a lie down.)
Sterile Dressings,Various. Just use your imagination, not mine, I’m already way past my pain threshold just thinking about it.
Micropore Tape. Another brilliant invention, developed originally for burns so I believe, but good for holding dressings in place as well, or use straight on a small burn or scald.. It allows air to a wound while protecting it from the environment. If used on its own, on a cut or small burn, you can put it on and forget about it, unless things start looking ugly that is, otherwise it will just wear away in its own good time.
Tweezers For removing splinters, the arse end of flying, stinging insects, ticks and South American Trucks from your skin. Preferably the only use they will ever receive is for reassembling small intricate motorcycle parts, or even more preferable, just along for the ride.
Antiseptic Cream. See all above
Pain Killers I truly hope that the Paracetamol and codeine tablets will more than cover any amount of pain that I will meet, but I’m told that stronger stuff is available over the counter in many countries if required. Make sure they don’t make you drowsy though, otherwise more pain may be heading your way.
Re-hydration Salts. You loose more than water when you sweat, and if you (You? – most likely should be I but the more I distance myself the easier it is to type.), as I was saying, these get you back off your back and into the saddle more quickly if you’ve got them.
Multivitamins. Now I’m sure vitamin BigMac#1 has everything you need to support life as we know it, but a few more won’t do any harm. Besides Ronald may not have made it yet to Adobe Huts, High Andes, S.America. Luckily citrus and other tasty fruits are really cheap.
Insect Repellent DEET is the preferred substance so I have read, but surprisingly this may be more necessary in the temperate zones than the hot ones. Just have to see.
Anti-Histamine Tablets. Allergic reactions can come from anything ranging from detergent to tree bark, insect stings to paint. These will help with the sneezing, swelling or that unsightly rash, no not that one, but most of the others, you need amoxalin for that!!!
Rubber Gloves. A multitude of uses, from keeping a barrier between you and the nasty stuff that you could be exposed to, or cutting the fingers off to keep your fags and matches dry in a monsoon. Remember if you are being treated, you may like to give several pairs to your carer and not rely on the traditional methods, like spitting on their hands and wiping them on once blue Levis. Also good when you do oil changes or mess around with your chain and stuff.
Alcohol Gel. Suggested by Sarah, and as a budding Paramedic, she should know. (I've asked her how you get the gin to mix with the jelly, and does the tonic go in first or last, but no reply yet)
Syringes. Not every medical facility can afford disposable syringes, and in some countries there are endemic diseases like AIDs or hepatitis, Sad but true, I wish it weren’t. Taking a few disposables may save you the risk of being infected by dirty needles. On the other hand will border guards think you are a junky. I have not heard of such incidents, but that doesn’t mean they won’t happen. With all the inoculations required you may have enough pinholes in you to raise suspicion, but I’d rather talk my way through that than be without them. Perhaps it’s the paranoia of unknown places creeping in.
Bear Repellant Spray. First Aid? Well I think prevention is better than cure, I am getting paranoid about bears, so please folks, no more emails with graphic photos of bear attacks, just sit quietly and enjoy them by yourself!!!

Well that’s about it with the possible exception of incontinence pads required due to the standard of driving in many of the countries I shall visit, but I’ll just sit tight on that one ;o) Oh and I must make sure that this kit is handy, not buried under mounds of stuff in the bottom of the pannier I can’t get at because I can’t lift the bike up.

Survival Gear.
I am not a doctor, SEAL or SAS expert. This stuff is what I will take and I give you the reasons why I am taking it. If you want to copy me, that’s your lookout.

Sounds dramatic, but a few bits and pieces in an old tin may save my life one day, I hope that once the lid is on this tin, I never have to take it off again.

Fishing Line and Hooks. Gotta eat and fish is good for you, especially if you’re stuck in the middle of nowhere. They don’t work so good in the desert I’m told, but I wonder if you can bait up and hook a lizard or snake?
Waterproof Matches. Make your own, just smear some lard over some Swan Vesta matches (the sort that will strike on a stone) and place in a plastic bag, the resealable type.
Flint and Striker. Now you can buy spark strikers from camp shops, they will ignite petrol or gas stoves just as well as they ignite dried tinder, but there is a knack for using them. I prefer a storm lighter myself. (Tip: Thistle down or elder pith make excellent tinder, but you need something a bit more substantial, like dried grass, to keep the flame long enough for it to be of any use. While on fires, dead twigs still on the branch, or caught up, are usually drier than those on the floor.)
Iodine. For purifying water or using on cuts and scrapes. Water tastes foul, but at least it won’t infect you. Iodine will not purify water, it just kills the microscopic wildlife swimming about in it. If the water is dosed with let’s say arsenic from mine spoilage, and you drink it, then you will die, iodine or no iodine. Just be aware that not all water is good for you.
Camp Knife As discussed earlier a good knife can help get you food, make you a dwelling, even start a fire if you can find some flinty rock.
Wire Saw. Possibly over the top, but can cut through metal or wood in an emergency situation, and will roll up quite small.
Survival Space Blanket Not just for the London Marathon, these silver things save people from hyperthermia and can be used to signal S&R teams from a long way off.
Metal Container to house it all in. Something like a tobacco tin is ideal, because you can polish up the inside of the lid and use it as a signal mirror. If I am in a wilderness situation, I will keep this on my person at all times, it is the bare amount of equipment that makes survival possible.
And of course a big bar of chocolate. (Since it is a well known fact that chocolate goes off quickly ;o) it is best, imho, to consume and replace it as often as possible.)

The Route Overall

North America
• Canada (no Visa required)
• USA (Visa Waiver Programme)
• Mexico (Tourist Card) 6 months

• Germany (no visa required)
• Holland (no visa required)
• Belgium (no visa required)
• France (no visa required)

The Mexican Visa looks to be obtainable at point of entry, the others I'll need to get from the Embassy of those countries, either when I come home for a holiday, or while in Australia.

The Route –Part 1; Stage 1

My Proposed route is as above, but there are several factors governing its implementation. If I can leave in late June/early July then this is it, if not then I may have to juggle the times a bit, even starting in the Southern Hemisphere and heading north. This is no problem, just another opportunity, no but, yes but – really is.. Of course the weather is a factor and this will require some ad-hoc adjustments depending on the time it takes to get to the various countries.

Canada

See text for annotation

Nova Scotia
So, providing both my bike and I find ourselves in (a) Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, in July, then I head north along the east coast of Nova Scotia to the National Park (NP) on Bretton Island, (c) camping at Boyleston Provincial Park (PP) at Guysborough on the way. (b)

Boyleston Provincial Park, Nova Scotia

Newfoundland and Labrador.
From there via ferry from North Sydney, to the island of Newfoundland. (d) I want to travel up to the north of Newfoundland to see the Viking settlement at L’Ainse aux Meadows (e)

L’Ainse aux Meadows

I then have to retrace my route returning to catch the ferry from St Barbe to Lourdes du Blanc Sablon on mainland Newfoundland and Labrador. Heading north from here to Mary Harbour (f) where the tarmac runs out and I change to off road tyres for my journey to Cartwright. (g) Catch the ferry from Cartwright to Happy Valley/Goose Bay. (h) A quick visit to Sheshatshit, then head SW to Labrador City (i) via Churchill Falls.

Quebec Province

Manic 5

Then into the Province of Quebec where the tarmac starts again so I can change back to my road tyres. Passing the Manic Dams (j) I will reach the St Lawrence Seaway at Baie Comeau

This is the end of Stage 1; Stage 2 is Trans-Canada to Inuvik in the Northwest Terrotory.

Next blog: The Route; Part 1; Stage 2; Trans-Canada.

Innoculations

Not the sort of injection I'm looking for....

There is a wealth of information regarding diseases and prevention on the HU website but my doctor required me to go to the website www.masta.org for a printout of the recommendations listed for my journey. They charge about £4.00 for a list of 10 countries, so I needed 3 pages to list my journey.

The NHS will provide the following free of charge.

Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio (1 injection)

Typhoid

Hepatitis A

The following is considered mandatory and will cost me.

Yellow Fever. A Certificate maybe required in some countries.

The following should be seriously considered and will also cost me.

Hepatitis B

Rabies

Cholera

TB

Tick Typhus (inc. Spotted Fever / African Tick Bite Fever)

Lyme Disease

Malaria

So if in the next few weeks I say ‘not tonight I’ve got a headache’, it will probably be true!

Next blog ‘The Route Part 1, Stage 1

Riding Gear
Me in the Hein Gericke gear with Christine

Riding gear is split between a Eunesco Riding Outfit for rainy climates with its zip out liner and storm-proof construction, and a Hein Gericke outfit for warmer ones. While only advertised as shower-proof, the Toureg outfit from Hein Gericke has the advantage that there are zips everywhere that allow air to pass through the outfit, and the trousers unzip to become shorts. What, two sets of motorcycle clothing!!! Yes, I don’t see how you can have something light and airy that will withstand cold wet stormy days in Canada, or on the other hand, heavy storm-proof clothes that can be worn in comfort in the desert. I will just send the heavy clothes home when I get to a point that I don’t need them any more. It’s not a race, if I need to hang about waiting for a Fedex delivery anytime, then that’s more time for me to relax and see the local area.
Boots
Lid, gloves and boots

Vendramini Italian riding boots of a traditional design for me, they were an absolute bitch to get on first of all, as I have a high instep. Several applications of leather treatment and perseverance and now they fit like a glove. So much so that I can walk about in them all day with no discomfort, in the summer I tend just to use a little talcum powder instead of socks, that way I keep the washing down.;o)
Gloves
Two pairs of gloves. One set of leather gauntlets, again from Eunesco, and one set of soft leather short gloves. The soft gloves are for hot weather or wearing inside the others on cold days.
Helmet.
I like the flip up style of helmet, makes talking with people much easier. The Carberg model that I chose has an added advantage of a slide down, dark tinted, inner sun visor operated from a slider on the top of the helmet.
Balaclava
Not just to keep my head and neck warm on the bike, but with all the mosquitoes and black fly I’ve read about in the Canadian wilderness, I figure this could be worn around the camp in the evenings to keep the little bastards off of me. TBO
Underpants.
Most Important. I count underpants as part of my Riding Outfit, rather than just personal gear because I have learned the hard way that if you use just an ordinary set of boxer shorts or ‘Y fronts’, not only do you get ‘saddle sore’ very quickly, but also you get a very interesting pattern of tramlines across your bum!!! I am using underwear designed with skiers in mind, because it is a wicking fabric, to translocate sweat, and also has the seams in the right places. Another advantage is that the fabric dries very quickly after washing. You can, I’m told, get seamless underwear now, but my 2 pairs of shorts and 2 pairs of longjohns are already in the bag.
Heated Waistcoat
It gets cold up in the mountains, no matter what time of year it is. Once cold it takes quite a while to get warm again and if you are cold you also don’t concentrate as well on your riding. A padded waistcoat which has wires sewn in, a bit like an electric blanket, can be plugged into a power socket on the bike and keep you nice and toasty. Also available to work from rechargeable batteries, but that means remembering to charge them, and I have enough bits of electronic equipment destined to be hanging off the bike already. TBO

Personal Gear
Lightweight coat;
A thin lightweight coat, again made from modern fabric, waterproof, wicking and incorporates a bactericide and insect repellent. Worn either as a thermal layer inside the Motorcycle jacket, or as a casual coat for walking about in. The only drawback is the hood which would have been better if it was incorporated in the collar.
Lightweight Trousers.
Once more in modern fabric so that they will wash and dry quickly, but also with an insect deterrent coating. Also they unzip at the knee turning them into shorts for the warmer weather. Two pairs of trousers in one!
Shirts x4
I do not like my arms being covered, so T-shirts are my preferred option, however, due to the mozzies I will have to have at least one long sleeved shirt, I think a silk shirt I have will fill the bill quite nicely, being light and folding up very small. Only draw back is that silk creases, am I worried, nah.. The others will be in lightweight modern wicking fabric, just don’t invite me to a formal dinner ;o)
Vests x3
The art of keeping warm and comfortable is to use several thin layers of clothing, rather than a few thick ones. Vests can take the place of T-shirts, sleepwear or for just slopping about in camp. Once more modern ski wear offers excellent value for money in the latest materials. In hot weather they can take the place of T-shirts under my riding gear.
Socks x3
As mentioned already, these are mainly for cold weather, or when walking about in my boots, as I find talcum powder keeps my feet comfortable in all other situations.
Moccasins.

I like moccasins, you can feel the ground under your feet! Once had a pair with old tyres stitched on for the sole. The Woodland style of the Iroquois with a high ‘collar’ that can be tied up around your ankles are best imho if you can get them. I may have to wait until I get to Canada to obtain a pair, or if I have time make a pair of my own, it’s quite easy. TBO
Sunglasses
I have a prescription pair, plus the flip down on my helmet, should be enough.
Cameras and tripod.
I am taking 3 cameras. My main camera is a Konica-Minolta Dimarge Z5, capable of taking high definition still and video and storing it on an SD Card. The next is a Fuji Finepix 1300 to be an ‘ever-ready’ camera in an easy to get at location for those split second shots where the other camera would take too long to initialise. I have a micro-tripod for taking longer exposures and also the self timer ones of myself. The 3rd camera, I hope, is to be a helmet mounted video camera feeding into a media storage device mounted somewhere out of harms way. That option is still in the discussion stage however. TBO
Head Torch
For all those moments when you need both hands free and it’s dark. Like cooking, repairs and going for a pee. TBO
Maps
I’ll have more to say on maps in the route section of this blog when I get to it. I like paper maps though, even if they are printouts of my own computer generated ones. I also intend to have a set of these on CD.TBO
Compass
Despite there being one on the Magellan GPS, a good compass is essential and takes up so little room as to make it a no brainer for me.
GPS
I have been lucky enough to be given a Magellan GPS unit by my friend Dave, after he upgraded. What a marvellous invention. I’ve had hours of fun plotting routes and waypoints, but I’ll tell you more about that in the ROUTES section.
Small Calculator.
I know I’m gonna get ripped off by the money changers at some border crossings, I just want to know by how much!!
Notebook and Diary. Elementry.
Pens
I want to take loads of cheap pens. They make a nice little present in poorer countries so I’m told, and don’t have the stigma of money attached.
Cell Phone.
Useful in so many ways, Alarm Clock, Camera, Video Recorder, Diary, Notebook, Address book, mp3 player, oh and I also believe you can make phone calls from them, whatever next!! Have to get a new SIM Card that works in the Americas though. I’ll get that when I’m there. My existing phone takes the same SD cards as my camera, so a useful form of transferring data between equipment as it also has IR and Bluetooth. SIM TBO
USB Bluetooth Dongle.
As mentioned above useful for data transfer if the computer leads don’t fit.
String
1001 uses, the woven nylon stuff I prefer. (Tip, for a washing line just double the line and twist it several times before tying off . Secure clothes by poking them through the twists, no need for pegs.)
Sewing Kit
Look the Army issues sewing kits to soldiers, so don’t mock. Take a reel of heavy waxed cotton thread as well as the nylon yarn, if a bear decides to investigate your tent you may need to get it sewed back together, or maybe that should also refer to your own skin as well.
Earplugs
I’ve put these here rather than with my riding kit because I expect to be listening to my mp3 player a lot of the time. To those who say you shouldn’t listen to music when riding, I say fine for a car, but with a full helmet, the wind noise, earplugs, the engine noise, you can’t hear anything going on more than 3feet from the bike anyway. Also you can switch it off to talk much easier than taking your helmet off and removing earplugs. I use earplugs mainly to get to sleep in noisy camping situations.
Small Padlock.
I don’t know, but everyone takes one, probably just to throw away somewhere on route.
Length of Cable.
Plastic covered metal cable for securing bike, luggage and stuff, there you go, use with padlock :o) TBO
Matches/Lighter
Fire is an essential element; this is easier and quicker than rubbing two boy scouts together.
Travel Towel.
Ingenious use of modern materials. I have seen one put in a bucket of water, been wrung out and be dry enough to use immediately. Also treated with bactericide to stop them becoming smelly. TBO
Wash Kit
A bar of soap is less bulky than shower gel and lasts longer. No deodorant, it’s good to sweat, use strong coal tar soap though if you are in sensitive company. I wet shave, but not like you imagine. I use an old ball deodorant bottle filled with oil, roller it on my chin and shave off, no need for water if it’s in short supply. The Romans used oil before they discovered soap. A disposable razor lasts a good month this way without getting scratchy. The oil lasts about 500 shaves, you can use baby oil or any refined oil, and sun screen works just fine. This ingenious device I call the Shaverball, but so far Gillette et al have not been interested until I obtain my own patent. Toothpaste and brush, although salt is as good, and a comb. That’s about all a man needs.
Wet Wipes
For when you can’t get a wash, but since they don’t rot down easily, please burn or dispose of carefully.
Toilet Paper
Flat sheets not roll. I wonder what that’s for.
Lip Gloss
er Salve I think that should be, but Liz suggested Vasoline is just as good, and can be used instead of grease on the bike if required. Good thinking Liz.
Sun Block.
With all the heavyweight motorcycle gear on, my body won’t get to tan gradually without a little help. Exposing white flesh to desert sun is not recommended. Just out of interest casual clothing comes with a sun factor rating nowadays, and in some cases it’s lower than you would think. My sun-block cream is a higher factor than my khaki trousers!!
Explorers Hat.
Essential equipment according to my granddaughter Trinity, and I think I go along with that. Wide brimmed and waterproof, for when I’m not wearing my helmet. Mine has been many places with me, and although getting a bit battered I hope it will survive the journey.

Me with my Explorers Hat in Nemes, France.

Next blog will be First Aid Kit and Survival Kit

Camping equipment appears to me very much a matter of 50% personal choice and 50% common sense. Obviously if I’m going down to Wales on the Spring Bank Holiday for a weekend and my tent blows away, I’m gonna be pissed off, but I seriously doubt if my life will be in danger. On the other hand if it happens in late Autumn on the Russian Steppes, hmm, I think we can all figure that one out.

Tents of all shapes and sizes

Tent. After spending a few weekends away in a small one man tent loaned to me by my son Adam, I had enough information for what was required to satisfy me as and individual. After a little more research on the climates I would encounter, (much hotter, much colder, than I expected.) I had a mental picture of what I wanted. The HU Weekend at Ripley gave me the opportunity to go and ask questions about peoples experiences with their tents, something you cannot get from books. Two comments stand out in my mind. One from Chris, desperately trying to get his laptop to work for a presentation, but still happy to give me half an ear; ‘This tent is top of the range, mountaineering gear and cost plenty. Three years later the zips are knackered, the netting torn and a couple of anchor points dodgy. I could have bought a good cheap tent every 3 months and chucked it for the same money. Next time that’s what I’m going to do.’

I must admit I felt less embarrassed about my borrowed cheap little igloo, until everyone had left and a local scamp looked at it and said. They’re good those tents aren’t they, we’ve got one just like that but it’s blue; eight quid in the Co-Op.’

At Ripley there were tents in all shapes and sizes, and watching them go up and come down was also interesting. The easiest has to be the hammock tent.

Hammock Tent. Slung between two trees in the background.

Just sling it between two trees. It is ideal for hotter climates with creepy crawlies everywhere. ‘What if you don’t see two trees ten feet apart?’ I asked thinking that there may be a single fold away mast or perhaps even using the bike somehow. ‘Keep riding until you do.’ Good advice in Brazil, but not much use in the tundra.. Another unfolded like a sleepy octopus and was up in a minute or two while still more used more traditional aluminium or carbon fibre poles to stretch them into the many geodesic designs I saw there. In the end I decided that if it was to be my home for the next couple of years, one person needed a two man tent to stretch out in. This also gave the advantage that if I found a buddy, then if speed was required, we could just erect the one tent. Talking of buddies, at this time I was due to travel with my brother Norman who found himself in similar circumstances to me, but did not have a bike licence. He had booked an intensive riding course later that summer, but after a mornings theory and driving around cones, fell off in heavy traffic during his first ride out that afternoon, and sadly vowed never get on a motorcycle again. I have found rarely are you unequivocal about motorbikes, you either love them or you don’t. Better to find out now that you don’t than in downtown Labrador. Back to my choice; a two man tent then, quick to erect, good for both cold, wet and windy places as well as hot, dry ones. I have chosen an American design that has good undercover storage at one end for my gear, without it intruding into the living area, and a covered area at the front for my domestic needs. The only controversial thing about it, and I’m sorry about this but it appears to be true from all accounts, is the stars and stripes logo printed on the side.

I’m going to cover that with a St.Georges flag to take away any chance of uninformed opinion taking reprisals against it in some far flung land. I don’t want to come back one day and find it burnt to the ground!
The old red 'weekend tent' and the new silver ATW tent

Rock Pegs.

Like most tents mine came with thin aluminium tent pegs, fine for Englands green and pleasant land, but not in other more hostile climes. Rock Pegs are made of steel and you can get them into harder terrain where an alli peg would just hold up.

Hammer. As a hammer is also an essential part of my toolkit, it can double up to knock the pegs in with, as I don’t think a mallet would give the Rock Pegs enough of a clout to get them in if the ground is that hard.

Sleeping Bag. A good 3 or 4 seasons sleeping bag has got to be a must. You can easily sleep on top of it if it gets too hot, harder to find anything to boost it up if it gets too cold. If I were buying again I would probably go for a traditional oblong one rather than the mummy style I have purchased, as there is more room to fidget about in. I have got used to finding a good sleeping position and sticking to it though.

Sleeping Bag Liner. Keeps your sleeping bag from getting smelly, as you can wash and dry it quickly in a motel room, or at a camp site when it is sunny. Available in silk or polyester/cotton mix, your choice, I like polyester/cotton myself. You can use this on its own in hot weather, or inside the sleeping bag in cold. I often use the sleeping bag as a ‘throw over’ quilt, as you can adjust the temperature that you sleep at easier

Sleeping Pad.

As important is the sleeping pad or mat. This not only makes your bones more comfortable, but stops the heat leaching out from under you. I chose a self inflating ¾ model from Artiach that rolls up really tight, but make sure you store it opened out, or it will try and curl up when you come to use it.

Camping Stool. I do like something to sit on and one of the lightweight folding stools should be ok. I may reinforce the seat though, as a couple have shown the anchor points to be vulnerable. Sometimes, {often!) I also like to rest my back against something, and have found that you can put a stake in the ground and prop your bike seat against it to make a comfortable back rest and sit on your sleeping mat.

Cooking Stove.

Light, compact and quick to get going was my brief on this one, but like most things associated with long distance motorcycle travel, there are additional factors to take into account. I therefore made good sense to me that the fuel to power it should be petrol as I could get that anywhere, whereas a gas canister or solid fuel tablets might not be available. I have made my own spirit stoves before out of a small tin can and metal bottle cap, and they work well in an emergency. I bet they will even work using vodka as a fuel, hmm might try that, but if you get in a pickle check out this photo to see how to make one in an emergency.

If wood or dried dung is available an open fire makes sense, but try not to burn down half of Canada like that tourist did last year!!! Especially be aware that global warming is making some places tinder dry in the summer that are not usually so.

Cooking, drinking and eating ware.

A nesting stainless steel set is best in my opinion, but cooking a full meal is an art with only one stove. An open fire gives more opportunities to get everything to the table hot. Coddled eggs stay hotter than fried ones and you can use the hot water to make a drink or wash up with. Just boil some water set it aside and drop them in, still in their shells, for about ten minutes While on the subject of washing up, I store some gear in a ‘sandwich cool bag’ and have found this makes an excellent camp water carrier and washing up bowl. It keeps water warm for hours.

Thermos Flask. Not one with a glass interior, that’s asking for trouble. A stainless steel one is much more robust and as I intend to stop about once an hour for a drink, to me it is an essential piece of kit.

Torch. The new wind up torches have come a long way in the last couple of years with LEDs instead of tungsten filament bulbs, and mine has the added advantage that you can plug other devices in, like cell phones, to give them a short charge if required.

Camp knife.
Now this is a Knife

but Crocodile Dundee cutlery is not necessary, A medium size Bowie knife should be adequate.
It need to be stout in order to cut through branches should you be forced to make your own bivvi. A good stout knife is a must for survival, but with all of the security and hassle surrounding them at the moment I shall purchase mine when I reach Canada. I can hear someone saying I've never needed a knife that size for survival, well I never needed a life jacket until I got washed overboard! TBO

Nappy Sacks. No I’m not incontinent yet. These are for storing waste material until I reach somewhere that I can dispose of them with consideration for those following me.
Burn, bash and bury is the old Boy Scout philosophy, but sometimes that’s not always possible. I look with sadness at the trash left behind in some remote beauty spots by uncaring travellers.
Try not to be one please, not only does it look unsightly, but can injure the wildlife. Even throwing a plastic coffee cup into the sea can lead to a cod or other big fish dying when, thinking it’s a small fish as the upended cup bobs along the bottom with the tide, it gets lodged in its throat. Not nice. TBO

Hot Water Bottle. I have cold feet!! Any old soft drink bottle filled with hot, not boiling, water will do. It works fine.

Next on the list is Personal Gear

Which bike? One of the most vexed questions for newbie travellers, which bike?

All types and sizes at HU meeting, Ripley, 2006

It of course depends on where you are going and how. Two up needs a few more horses, whereas trail riding needs better clearance and suspension. It became clear to me, after seeing the DVD that shall not be named, that a GS on the rough is not a good option. A 600cc or 650 is adequate, and judging from the Dakar Rally reports, more than adequate for the job. I didn’t want to throw my money away on a bike that didn’t suit me, so before my final purchase I decided to buy a good 2nd hand BMWf650 and get some road miles under my belt.

'Christine'

A bike I saw on ebay caught my eye and I became the proud owner of a 10 year old Funduro. (Stupid name, but that’s corporate marketing for you!!)
One of my criteria was that I had to feel comfortable with parking it in a lay-by and walking away from it if it all became to much. Now you can’t do that if you’ve just spent 10 grand on a bike. I know, it sounds defeatist, but it is practical. Secondly it is older technology, so I should be able to fix most of it myself with a few basic tools if it breaks down on me somewhere remote. Anyway for £1600 I had a 10 year old bike with less than 5000 miles on the clock. Even though it had not reached its first proper service at 6000 miles, I had the history that showed regular services almost every year from new. Thank you previous owners, you did great. Compared to my 20 year old Yamaha XJ550, this bike was a dream to ride the 300 miles home. Responsive to the throttle across all the gears and a power curve that looks like a straight line graph, I felt quite safe and in full control on the motorway. Not until about the 250 mark did my bum begin to feel uncomfortable, but I found the cure for that, get better underwear. Sitting on a gusset seam for 4 hours does have its disadvantages. The next couple of weeks I put another 1000 miles on the clock, did a service with the aid of ‘The Chain Gangs’ website, and headed out for a weekend camping trip to Wales. Tip, know what way to turn the fuel tap when you start into reserve. I spent several frustrating minutes at the side of the road near Telford trying to get her started, until I got off and looked at the tap; yep it turns the opposite way to the XJ550. Oh the feeling of freedom just on a 2 day jaunt.

By a waterfall in Wales

I dropped it on a lonely road in the Welsh valleys as I pulled onto some shale to take a photo and not knowing the right way to pick it up, had to flag down a rare passing car to give me a hand. In my younger day I could pick up my heavy old BSA 650 Rocket Gold Star, but I was fitter in those days. Image my chagrin at seeing the lightly built ladies at the HU meeting a month later achieving what I couldn’t. It’s all down to technique. Richard, who camped next to me at Ripley also showed me another technique and both are admirably displayed in another Richards’ blog, that of Richard Lindley. So if you don’t know how, go there and find out, if you are a rider you need to know. Oh!Oh I can hear some saying under their breath; this guy hasn’t got a chance, a disaster waiting to happen. Well let’s just wait and see, we all have weaknesses in our knowledge but admitting that I am ignorant is not one of mine, nor is giving up. On returning from Wales I sat down and thought about it and yes the f650 was all that I wanted from a bike. A few mods required true, but basically I felt right at home with her and gave her the name ‘Christine’. So me and Christine are off to see the world, but first we got rear ended just outside Nottingham in the summer, 2 weeks before the HU Meeting I was going to in Belgium, so yet another experience, (albeit one I would prefer not to repeat) to chalk up. I was interested to note my attitude during the first moments after the crash. Pinned under my bike, trying to figure out what had just caused me to launch into space, I felt a great anger as the white van driver, yes a white van, strode towards me saying, ‘You must have overtaken me on the inside!’ If I could’ve gotten up just then there might have been fisticuffs, but he immediately retracted saying that it was all his fault. After that I was a little surprised to feel myself amused at the whole thing, I was OK, only superficial damage to the bike and raring to get back on and get to the weekends racing at Donnington. First a few ad-hoc repairs to the smashed rear light and pray that the rear wheel or frame were not bent. A few miles up the road and no juddering or pulling to one side, so I guess not. Later a dealer confirmed that all was ok. So I learned Lesson #2, If you aren’t leaking body fluid and it don’t hurt anywhere, relax and be glad about it.

New Boots for Christine

The hired Honda and I at the HU Belgium Meeting

Now about those Mods

Fork Gaiters to stop dirt and sand from wearing out the seals. Also from stones chipping the chrome. Job Done
Engine Crash Bars to stop damage to vital parts when going over (me and the bike) Job done. (Another ebay buy, when he found out about the ATW trip the seller said that he did 7000miles across Australia 10 years back and they were the best days of his life. Q. What tips for a newbie. A. Talk to the locals, campsites are full of tourists like you, so you will get a false impression.)
LED Lights, so no bulb worries. To Be Done
Touring Wind Shield needed. If you get to talk to Dennis Brown, ask him about his windscreen story, hilarious. TBD
New Inner Tubes. I saw a forum note somewhere that you can get heavy duty 4mm tubes. Gotta check it out and buy some. TBD
Wheel Bearings. Check and replace as required. Shouldn't need to replace, not after only 10,000 mls, but better safe than sorry. TBD
Power Take Off Socket. Some bikes have this already fitted, mine hasn't so I must fit one. TBD
Petrol Filter. There is dirty petrol out there, and not just in far flung places. TBD
Quick Release Fuel Line Couplers. Makes getting fuel for my stove and cleaning filters much easier. Also change the fuel lines foe new ones. TBD
Chain Lub Unit. I'm going to attempt to make a smaller, simpler chain lub unit. Watch this space. TBD
Radiator Hoses. 10 years old, so it makes sense to change them now. TBD
Sump Guard. The one supplied is plastic, and I'm not sure it will stand up to bashing it against the odd bolder. Also the design is poor because it is difficult to get to the sump drain plug. May either strengthan and modify or fabricate my own. I would like to see a bit of shock proofing built in, so that the full force of hard knocks doesn't get transmitted to the engine casing. TBD
Side Stand Mod. The side stand could do with a bigger foot so it doesn't sing into soft ground, and possibly something to help it grip on smooth sloping ground. I'll have to think on that one. TBD
Spare Cables. While I've got the bike in bits it makes sense to ty-wrap a spare cable along the route of the existing one, then if one breakes, hooking up the other can be done quickly at the side of the road. TBD
Radiator Screen. The Radiator looks exposed to flying stones and rocks, but it should not be difficult to make a screen up, and possibly improve the oil drain plug arrangement. TBD
Heated Grips. It gets pretty cold in the mountains so I've heard tell, so these will need to be fitted, along with Hand Shields. TBD
Cruise Control. This just slides over the throttle grip and enables you to relax your grip on those long straight prairie roads, using the palm of your hand to contol your speed. TBD
Oil Temp. Guage. Another easy fit. The f650 has a dry engine sump and the oil is held in a reservoir in front of the petrol tank. Replacing the existing filler cap with one that incorporates a temperature guage is simple. TBD
Gel Battery. A Gel Battery has better output than a standard one, and it will not spill acid onto everything if it takes a knock. I think it is also acceptable to leave them in place, but disconnected, during transit, even by air. TBD
Off Road Front Tyre. Or a semi-off road to be exact, I may be travelling on unmade roads, but I don't expect to be going anywhere where I need a full knobbly.
Off Road Rear Tyre. Having got Sam to help me change my worn out rear tyre at the HU Riply Meeting last year, in a record time of 1hr47mins :o), I don't need to change this to an off-road tyre yet. Also I would be amazed if I couldn't pick one up in Halifax,Canada during my first few days stay. No point in carting one across the pond for no reason. (BTW the tyre change time did included breaking a rusty bead and sanding down the rim to remove rust and corrosion.)
Top Box. The top box I have is neither big enough nor strong enough. I want at least 1 metal box for securing valubles. I'm not sure if I will buy one, adapt one or make one. Must ponder a bit more on that. TBD
Panier Rail. Its not worth the fidling about to make them when you can pick them up for around £100. When they are fitted I can work out the next item. TBD
Panniers. Another vexed question that creates a great deal of debate, until you commit yourself that is, and then of course your choice is the DBs. I am inclined to soft panniers as the will absorbe low speed (no speed) topples, although hard panniers can double up as seat and table. Hmmm still thinking on that one. TBD
Tank Bag. has to have a clear map pocket, although I have a small GPS I still like maps, or at least a list of towns I'm supposed to be passing through. TBD
Tool Box. I'm looking for a piece of heavy duty plastic pipe, like the stuff the use for water and gas mains. I think I know where there are some abandond pieces. Light and almost indistructable, will mount low down at front somewhere. TBD

Well thats my current Bike Preperation list, I'll put it somewhere where I can update it without causing a new entry each time. I'll let you know when I do.

Next to consider is my Camping equipment, but thats tomorrows task.

Happy Trails.

5 Continents to cross, 29 Countries to navigate and I'm not sure how I got here. Yes I am actually; it was that train journey to Avignon in December 2005.

The screech of the TVRs brakes heralded my arrival in Avignon, December 2005. Donning my rucksack and satchel I followed the straggling line of passengers out of the station into the crisp midnight air, and onto the wide floodlit station steps. Before me was a modern concourse with majestic wrought iron gates and a wide boueivard stretching into the distant darkness. I re-read the brochure, 'The Hotel is a short distance from the Station and directly in front of you.' Forwards then. Fifteen minutes later the street lights were gone and I was standing puzzled next to a 4 meter high chain link fence at the back of a factory lot!! Back to the light, out with the map. Doh! There are TWO Stations at Avignon, one for the TVR and one for local trains. Back to the taxi rank, more fun and games and finally arriving at my Hotel to a sleepy night porter.
Lesson one, when things go wrong, stay cool, enjoy them and earn a pint out of the telling there of.
So what has this got to do with me and Two Wheeled Adventure Travel? Stay with me, all will be revealed.

I enjoyed the quirks of that holiday so much that I thought about taking another train journey in the Spring, The Trans-Siberian Express to Vladivostock sounds romantic, but you have to fly back to Moscow
'Why,' asked my friend Mike, 'don't you ship your bike there and ride back?'
'Don't be daft Mike, only a lunatic would ride that far!!'
2 DVDs later and I am a convert lunatic. Another slide show by seasoned 'Globebusters', Kevin & Julia Saunders, and I feel defeated. The cost, all that shiny new GS paintwork, the insurance, the back-up team, the planning. To console myself I browse the web and find Lois-on-the-Loose :o)
Crikey, half the age that I am, wandering off to who knows where with an old ammo box welded to the back of a well used Yamaha XT225. Lois changed my life at that moment, if she can do it on a shoestring, then so can I. Bonus!!! I find a link to Horizons Unlimited, and boy oh boy, the game is afoot.

Tomorrow : What bike and why