Leaving KTM was hard but the roads were waiting and our Indian visa was loosing time. We made Varanasi in two days with only one Indian truck driver attempting to run us off the road.
We camped at the Surya Hotel in their lovely garden. It was so peaceful to escape the pressures of this vital city on the Ganges. More shock woes as break no. 3 occurs. There cannot be any "bounce" left in this piece of steel. The search for a replacement starts. A helpful Honda dealer Ravi, swings into action. Many springs were found but failed to fit. Seven days later a spring is produced, not quite the right size but it will get us out of trouble. Contacted home about a warranty claim but 200,000kms is too much. I don't know why!!! In addition to this problem, a knock which I thought was steering head bearings turned out to be a broken frame. The large support in the middle of the bike with the electrical items attached. Another welding job and her broken back is fixed. The bike has reached 20yrs and has thrown in the towel, maybe!! There is no pension, until it reaches OZ.
Mike and Rosie arrive in Varanasi after 4 1/2 days ride from KTM. The Guzzi is going fine but the Enfield....is a real problem. I will leave to Mike to tell his story. Varanasi will be remembered for the special help from Ravi and the cycle rickshaw riders who, after agreeing to a negotiated price, demand more on arrival.
It was a bad day to leave Varanasi. We ride towards Allahabad and the Kumbh Mela on its biggest day. The traffic was insane. Two lanes turned into six as everything grinds to a standstill. We averaged 25kms per hour and were exhausted when we reached Fatehpur. Only one near miss as three vehicles head towards us on a two lane road. We split the two outside vehicles!! Crazy stuff.
Reaching Agra was not easy. We watched a local motorcyclist overtake us on a Honda 100cc and ride staight into a pig crossing the road. This was a BIG pig and we cannot believe he did not see it. They are not on this planet when they drive/ride here. He survived, the pig squealed and ran off. Another phenomena is the desire for people to overtake us at all cost endangering all involved and then slow to an almost crawl and then, request us to overtake them again. We are a novelty but their driving is absolutely crazy. Their ears are their eyes. They do not react to anything on the road unless they are tooted. A loud different horn is a must. We have a small siren purchased in Bulgaria. Combined with the normal horn it creates a disturbing sound. It works!! It is interesting to note that in almost 200,000kms of world travelling in the last 4 years we have seen more vehicle accidents in the few weeks in India than in all the other countries combined.
The Taj prices are out of our reach and now there are no "free Fridays". It is now closed on Fridays and open on Mondays. We have heard there will be a price decrease some time in February. So we will head to the deserts, forts and palaces of Rajasthan and maybe trade our bike for a camel for a day or two.
The earthquake in Ahmadabad 26/1/01 was felt here in Agra as we ate breakfast. What a strange feeling.
Next day we crossed into Nepal at Banbasa on the western border. The road to this point was rough but crossing Nepal things improved dramatically, and the sign said "Roads built in co-operation by Nepalese and Indian Governments"!!! The traffic problems all but disappeared and the night was spent in Kohalpur at a very basic Guest House. We enjoyed traditional Nepalese food of Dhal Baht.
The road between Kohalpur and Butwal, Nepal.
We made Butwal by lunch the next day and enquired about the road to Pokhara. They said good road, 5 hrs?? But they did not mean the one we were going to take. We headed north and enjoyed 30 kms of reasonable road but it all went bad from there. Could not complete the 155kms before dark and we stayed in a little village (Galyan) that fogged in overnight. Leaving early we made Pokhara by 11am. Great views of the Annapurna Range coming into town. Pokhara is very touristy but are suffering due to political unrest. The village was almost deserted at dusk. Break number two on the shock spring was discovered here and so another welding job was done before heading off to Kathmandu.
Heavy fog leaving Galyan for Pokhara.
K & C at one of the Stupas in Kathmandu.
Enroute to KTM a head-on crash (bus/truck) slowed our progress. These sightings would become common on this part of our journey (Asia). Our aim is not to become part of one.
Sadhus Pashupatinath, Kathmandu.
At KTM we met up with Benka Pulko again, another world traveller (F 650). We last met in Florida USA in November 1997. Some kms have been ridden between the two of us since that time.
Christmas 2000, Kathmandu
KTM was fun, enjoying great food, sharing stories with other motorcycling overlanders, backpackers and bicycle riders. We had a great Christmas and New Year - See Dr. Gregory Fraziers story in January's E-zine of www.HorizonsUnlimited.com We played with the rickshaw drivers and riders, tiger balm salesman, the shshsh hashish sellers and best of all the t-shirt embroiders. Some of our crowd spent many dollars/D.marks on these tempting items. We bought four t-shirts, some bought ten times this!!! They are very good though.
A quick visit to Chitwan National Park
Riding elephants in Chitwan N.P.
Mike and Rosie, New Year's Eve, Kathmandu.
More shock woes as the seal failed and we lost oil and gas. We salvaged it again with a new seal and oil from Germany brought in by special delivery. (Thanks Angela and Co)
New Year's Eve Kathmandu
Group at Durbar Square, Kathmandu. L to R - K & C BMW, Rosie 350 Enfield, Angela Dominator, Mike Moto-Guzzi.
A party of four bikes left Islamabad Campground for Lahore, Connor (XT600), Angela (Dominator), Oliver (Transalp). We enjoyed walking the bazaars, the old fort and riding backwards in the Tuk Tuks as the traffic aimed at our toes!!
Time to leave Islamabad Campground
Had a laugh when a Christian Movement paraded past our hotel in peak hour traffic. It was Ramadan in Pakistan!! They created a huge traffic jam. We stayed at the Menora Hotel across the road from the Lahore Hotel. Safe parking was found at the Lahore Hotel for 10Rs a day, absolute bargain.
Crossing the border into India saw the officials mess up our Carnet by taking a page three past the next one to be used. I like to watch this procedure after experiences in Africa but was instructed to sit down by the official. German friends travelling in a Unimog had two pages removed for the one vehicle. Beware the crossing at Wagah/Attari Road.
Oli takes over from the rickshaw driver Amritsar
Fun on a rickshaw Amritsar
Amritsar will always be remembered for the Golden Temple. We have not seen the Taj Mahal yet but it will need to be good to beat this. The people there, the workers, the hostel attached to the temple - a must for every traveller.
Carol at the Golden Temple
Local ladies at The Golden Temple
Our party broke up on departure with Oliver heading south to the deserts of Rajasthan. Today was our first real taste of the Indian traffic, preparing us for the onslaught to come. Overnight in Ambala saw Angela's bike have a flat tyre and topple over. No damage, just a broken pot plant inside the hotel passage way.
Carol washing her feet before entering The Golden Temple
Foreigners room in the Pilgrims Hostel The Golden Temple, with Connor and Angela.
Our party dwindled again as a quick repair of the puncture saw Angela head north to Nepal. Connor and ourselves headed to Delhi to organize our tickets/transport to Bangkok.
Karol Bagh motorcycle area New Delhi
We achieved much in Delhi with few hassles. Our transport and flights were organized. Connor replaced an ailing battery, Carol got sick so rested in bed while the boys played with the tuk tuks.
Gandhi Guest House New Delhi, it was better on the inside than it looked from the street.
Departing Delhi on Sunday was a breeze. Connor headed south to join Oliver and we rode to Agra to see the famous Taj Mahal. We thought the US$20 or Aud$40 per person too expensive. They will not get our money at those prices.
Left Agra taking minor roads towards Bareilly. The route had far less traffic but the road condition was very poor - potholes, rough surface, livestock and bicycle riders not prepared for a motorcycle as large as ours.
HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!
"The calendar is magnificent!"
"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"
We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!
Next HU Events
- Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! USA Virginia: Apr 9-12, 2015
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
- Canada West: Aug 20-23, 2015
- USA California: Sep 24-27, 2015
- Aus Queensland: Sep 24-27, 2015
- USA North Carolina: Oct 8-11, 2015
- Aus Perth: Oct 9-11, 2015
Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!
Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
"Inspiring and hilarious!"
"I loved watching this DVD!"
"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!