November 23, 2008 GMT
Fun and fine weather in Paraguay

November 2008 Part 2

To say the border crossing into Paraguay from Corinda, Argentina was a dream would be an understatement. Immigration and customs were extremely helpful with a lot of hand shaking and smiling. Not a tout to be seen and the bike parked in front of three police officers while we took care of the paperwork. Fantastic. Entering new countries we always spend some time adjusting to different driving quirks. Paraguay was no different and a small traffic jam caused an impatient bus driver (20 seats) to overtake us at a poor moment (oncoming truck) then chop across on top of us. A spray with the flashing headlight, horn/siren combo woke the driver and the ticket man up. Our first police check just outside Asuncion was painless and we joined the chaotic traffic into the city centre.

025 IMG_6837 Palacio Gobierno Asuncion.jpg
Palacio Gobierno in Asuncion

026 IMG_6839  The statue of former dictator Alfredo Strossener was crushed and placed in a concrete block with only his hands and face protruding.jpg
The statue of former dictator Alfredo Strossener was crushed and placed inside a concrete block with only his hands and face protruding

027 IMG_6854 Panteon Nacional de los Heroes.jpg
Panteon Nacional de los Heroes in Asuncion

028 PB110257 Palace at night.jpg
Palace at night

029 PB110260 Patricio and Carol.jpg
Patricio and Carol

Once again a HU community guy helped us with the address of a suitable hotel near the heart of the city. We met Patricio and Cecilia early in the evening showing us around their fair city by car and enjoying a meal at a sidewalk café in the warm night air.
The muggy heat near Rio Parana was similar to weather in tropical north Queensland. Undeterred, we walked the streets of Asuncion the next day in the oppressive humidity taking in the sights. On one occasion we were stopped by security guards to allow the President to drive by in his Limo. Patricio joined us for dinner again and he chose a small bar/restaurant opposite the Palace. A beautiful view.

030 IMG_6858 The low Chaco area.jpg
The low Chaco area

031 IMG_6863 Recent rain had caused flooding.jpg
Recent rains had caused flooding

032 IMG_6870 Bridge over the Rio Paraguay near Concepcion.jpg
Bridge over the Rio Paraguay near Concepcion

To get to Concepcion we crossed a very wet Trans-Chaco Highway to Pozo Colorado. Rain a few weeks earlier had flooded the plains and still lapped the edges of the road flowing quickly through pipes beneath the tarmac to disappear into huge seasonal lakes. Palms dominated the vegetation and the small Indian houses beside the road were inundated. Apparently this flooding occurs annually and we wondered why people persevered to live here when their houses obviously became submerged. Plenty of birdlife along this stretch of road however traffic was minimal. Lunching at a roadhouse at Pozo Colorado we then headed east on Ruta 5. The country side in Paraguay is very flat and when a large construction appears on the horizon it certainly stands out as did the bridge just before Concepcion.

033 IMG_6873 Concepcion.jpg

034 PB130296 New make or was it a merger.jpg
New make or was it a merger?

035 PB140320  Dont worry about the oats diesel is fine.jpg
Don’t worry about the oats, diesel is fine!

036 PB140321 Horse carts and scooters in Concepcion.jpg
Horses, carts and scooters are common in Concepcion

037 PB140322 Markets stalls in Concepcion.jpg
Market stalls

We passed several likely hotels to stay at riding around town but eventually settled on the Hotel Center. A colourful place with a lock up garage or a court yard for the bike. We sat on the footpath enjoying a cool drink and watched the hundreds of scooters cruise by. Solos, doubles, trios and even a family of four!!! Who needs TV? I sent a text to Patricio in Asuncion saying we had arrived OK and asked him to recommend a local food for us to try. One was a baked curried fish dish and absolutely delicious. Strolling the streets the next day was HOT but we took in the sights including markets, a large biblical monument and noted we must have missed a major Motorcycle company merger!!! (Yamazuky!!!) Horse and carts were as prevalent as new scooters even at the garages.

038 PB140327  Typical wooden houses in Paraguay.jpg
Typical wooden houses in Paraguay

039 PB140328 Washing day.jpg
Washing day

040 IMG_6882 The green countryside of Paraguay.jpg
The green country side

041 Friendly Police in Paraguay IMG_6966.jpg
Friendly police

042 IMG_6922 Sugar mill and cane trucks.jpg
Sugar mill and cane trucks

Riding Ruta 5 to Yby-Yau then Ruta 3 to Villarica we appreciated the lushness of Paraguay after the very dry terrain in the centre of Argentina. The sharp contrast of red soil against green vegetation extended as far as the eye could see and the undulating countryside made for easy traveling. People were super friendly and we felt most welcome even by the Police who checked our passport and bike papers frequently.

Villarica was not as enticing as indicated in the guide book and we departed after one night heading to the commercial border city of Ciudad del Este. Although we made good time the Police checks were becoming a little too frequent with some only 10 kms apart. At one particular check point we were greeted with much hand shaking and ‘welcome to Paraguay’. It was a very busy time but we believe there were three or four officers present and they insisted on photographs with the bike and police car. When all the happy snaps were done one officer returned to the nearby station reappearing with a sticker ‘Paraguay Policia Caminera’ insisting it be placed on our screen immediately. No complaints here as this little item made all the future Police checks very quick and easy. Thanks guys. Now let’s see if we can get one for Argentina and Chile!!!

043 IMG_6929 Bagging flour.jpg
Bagging flour

044 IMG_6951a  Local shop with meat hanging outside.jpg
Local shop with meat hanging outside

Saturday is not a good day to arrive at Ciudad del Este, a duty free shopping city bordering Brasil. It was hot, the traffic crazy, pedestrians even crazier and we could not follow our very average map of the city. Unable to locate the tourist office despite asking business people and policemen we ventured into the backstreets trying to find a hotel via the guide book. The old rule applies here … ‘if any accommodation is mentioned in a guide book the place becomes very popular and generally over priced.’ Fortunately there were several hotels/hostels and residencials located in the area and we found a suitable one with a delightful girl on reception who decided to learn several words of English during a brief stay.

045 PB150363 Traffic chaos Ciudad del Este.jpg
Traffic chaos in Ciudad del Este

046 IMG_6984 Night lights on Itaipu Dam.jpg
Night lights on Itaipu Dam

Besides the frantic shopping C.d Este is the city where we could access the world’s largest Hydro-electric dam. Situated on the border with Brazil the Parana River is dammed by the Itaipu Dam. The tourist authority conducts night tours on Friday and Saturday evenings. Parking the bike near the entrance we caught the bus out to a very dark dam wall. From a viewing platform the lights gradually illuminated this huge structure to the rising crescendo of very loud orchestral music. The best thing, this hour long show was free. Very impressive.

047 IMG_6990 The spillway.jpg
The spillway

048 IMG_6994 Itaipu Dam.jpg
Itaipu Dam

049 PB170455 Rhea and Capybaras at the small zoo.jpg
Rheas and Capybaras at the small zoo

050 PB180503  The receptionist at Hotel Venecia even learnt a few words of english while we were there.jpg
The ever smiling receptionist from Hotel Venecia

The contrast from the crazy Saturday arrival to the Sunday was amazing. C. d. Este was like a ghost town with 99% of the businesses closed. If fact the only food houses we could find open were MacDonald’s and Burger King and what a roaring trade they were doing!! Business resumed as normal on Monday and the chaos returned. Spending the morning cruising the retail outlets was enough and we escaped the city to take in another free tour of the dam only in daylight. Before returning to the shopping frenzy we dropped into a free zoo and museum on the highway back to town.

051 IMG_7111 Most places had lovely gardens with trimmed trees.jpg
Most places have tidy gardens and trimmed trees

052 IMG_7120 Gomeria Tyre repair shop in english.jpg
Gomeria, tyre repair shop in English

Enough of this consumerism, we headed towards Trinidad to look at the ruins of a few Jesuit Missions. Accommodation in the area was sparse so we returned to the German town of Hohenau and searched the streets for a suitable bed. Prices contrasted significantly for a similar standard of room. Perseverance paid off and we joined a German couple traveling on bicycles who had bunked down in a quiet hotel for a few days rest. Igel and Paola also carried a third traveler, Rambo, a small black and white terrier. He was one very fit dog and often ran 50 – 60 kms a day before hitching a ride in his little trailer behind Igal’s bike.

053 IMG_7141  Trinidad Jesuit Reduccion.jpg
Trinidad Jesuit Mission

054 IMG_7144 Looking to the bell tower.jpg
Looking towards the bell tower

055 IMG_7195 The partially restored church.jpg
The partially restored church

056 IMG_7198 A statue in the church.jpg
Statue in the church

The Jesuit ruins looked impressive perched on top of cleared hill and took some time to investigate. The remaining buildings protruded from a well grassed field (mowed) and were reasonably well maintained with considerable restoration visible around the main Church.

057 IMG_7211 Rambo and his trailer.jpg
Rambo and his trailer

058 PB210003 Igal and Paola with Rambo.jpg
Igel and Paola with Rambo

Bidding the bicycle trio farewell we headed to San Ignacio Guazu, a short ride of under 200 kms chasing more Jesuit ruins with maybe a little more history and the buildings perhaps in a better state of repair. Our Guide book spoke of many Hispano-Guarani buildings still standing in San Ignacio so we walked the town looking for access to these monuments however we experienced little success even when we spoke to an English speaking missionary. Most if not all the buildings were closed. Our efforts were then diverted to Santa Maria de Fe some 12 kms away where success was guaranteed when we noticed a film crew doing a documentary around the Museum. The building contained many artifacts plus several wooden sculptures. A very informed guide assisted with our queries and after all was done called us back into the garden behind the building to see some wild monkeys swinging through the trees.

059 PB220054 Wooden sculpture at  the museum in Santa Maria de Fe.jpg
Wooden sculpture at the museum in Santa Maria de Fe

060 IMG_7230 An  inquisitive monkey behind the museum.jpg
An inquisitive monkey behind the museum

Our short jaunt through Paraguay was all but done as we rode a couple of hours to the Encarnacion - Posadas border with Argentina. The queue of cars on the Argentinean side backed up to the San Roque bridge crossing Rio Parana. It was an uncomfortable wait in the noon day sun. Reaching the customs building we rode under an awning, parked and proceeded inside where we watched the customs personnel execute a shift change. The staff then began ‘passing the buck’ on who was going to process us. We were processed eventually with the lady demanding a return of our temporary import papers as she had listed the BMW as a car and not a motorbike. Wonder what she was thinking as we stood there with all our bike gear!!!

061 IMG_7238 Yerba Mate is grown in this area.jpg
Yerba mate is grown in many areas of Paraguay

062 PB230089  It was hot in the queue to cross to Argentina.jpg
It was hot in the queue to cross into Argentina

Posted by Ken Duval at November 23, 2008 10:07 PM GMT

NEW! HU 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar is now available! Get your copy now for some terrific travel inspiration!

HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!

Horizons Unlimited 2015 Motorcycle Adventure Travel Calendar.

"The calendar is magnificent!"

"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"

We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!

Next HU Eventscalendar

See all events


HU DVD Autumn Special!

Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!

Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).

The first in an exciting new series, Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers."Inspiring and hilarious!"

"I loved watching this DVD!"

"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."

"Wonderful entertainment!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.

Scottoiler automatic chain oilers. The most important accessory for your next motorcycle adventure!

Renedian Adventures

Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!

What turns you on to motorcycle travel?

Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.

Books & DVDs


All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.

Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!

Story and photos copyright ©

Sorry, you need a Javascript enabled browser to get the email address and dates. You can contact Horizons Unlimited at the link below. Please be sure to tell us WHICH blog writer you wish to contact.

All Rights Reserved.

Contact the author:

Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.

Hosted by: Horizons Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!