Rain and Snow, Winter is Coming

Puerto Madryn is used as a base to access Peninsula Valdes so it was no surprise to find backpackers discussing the attributes or lack of in using a day tour to sight the wild life on Peninsula Valdes. Some had already been and were extremely disappointed that less than an hour was given to get a chance sighting of the killer whales in action. This rarely happens and we encouraged a few to combine forces, hire a car and head out for a whole day or even more as this would be the best way to get a possible sighting providing the tides were suitable. We spent an enjoyable few days at a very comfortable Hostel close to town talking to people about our recent experience and convincing them to spend the money and make the effort to see this phenomenon.

Washing day in Puerto Madryn

Taking in the sun

Servicing the bike is always interesting and this time was no exception. We usually buy our oil from a garage then do the service there. Persuading the staff that auto oil is suitable for the motorbike is the first hurdle and then they say we need to go to a bike shop but we are generally able to convince them that I am a ‘mechanic’ and can do the work. The procedure always generates an audience and plenty of helpers.

A huge Parrillada meal in Choele Choel

Breakfast under the gum trees in Choele Choel

Our tasks completed we headed back towards Chile on Ruta 3 to Choele Choel communicating constantly with Daniel Todd whom we hope to meet somewhere along the road. These roads crossing Argentina although well surfaced are long and can be quite boring. We try to maintain a 100 to 110 kph speed limit to conserve fuel and subsequently are passed by the local vehicles that usually travel around the 140 kph mark. There is very little wildlife to be seen and traffic is generally minimal until the small towns dotted along the highway.

After 8 years we finally catch up with Daniel Todd

Eventually we met Daniel in Neuquen on Ruta 22 and it was really great to hook up with him again. It was in the latter half of 2000 we first met in Islamabad, Pakistan, all be it for a brief time, however we have remained in constant contact as we followed his traveling exploits over the past eight years. Some serious talking for several hours over a day or two and Daniel departed for Zapala where he is looking at a new job prospect. We need to stay another day in Neuquen to organize a new rear tyre.

The Tourist Information came to our rescue with directions to an area where there were numerous motorcycle shops. We scored a Metzler Enduro3 at the first port of call and adjourned to the Hostel to fit it. The purchase and fitting went so smoothly we could have left town around lunch time but we had committed to stay for another day so we caught up on some emails at the YPF (Repsol) garage across the road. A lot of these garages with cafes have great coffee and free WiFi.

Museum in Plaza Huincul

Security parking!!

Continuing west on Ruta 22 we stopped at Plaza Huincul to look at the Dinosaur Museum. It was a very small display but with some great skeletons and mock up creatures. Our hosts were very helpful with information and also allowed us to park the bike on the premises for security reasons. We doubt there would be a problem but it is always good to know someone is watching the bike while we wander off. Exiting the display we could not believe the transformation in the weather. In a matter of 45 minutes the blue sky and brilliant sun had disappeared in what looked like a dust storm. Rubbish and dust flew into our faces and we had difficulty in seeing the end of the street. The westerly head wind was gusting as we headed across the treeless plains towards Zapala. Our sympathies were with a lone bicycle rider who appeared to be enveloped in a dust and sand cloud that was probably bead blasting his face. This is oil country and numerous mechanical chickens dipped slowly into the earth sucking up its precious fluid. Argentina appears to be very rich in black crude.

Dust storm on the way to Zapala

Arriving in Zapala around siesta time we rang Daniel who was staying at a house on the edge of town. We stalled our western push for another few days as the weather was looking a bit damp and the winds were also making traveling very unpleasant. Daniel’s KLR 650 was experiencing rear wheel bearing problems also, so we spent a bit of time trying to get it sorted. Luck was not with us however and eventually Daniel had to make a direct ride to Santiago Chile where he hopes to get the necessary repairs completed.

Autumn leaves as the weather cools

We rode to San Martin de los Andes where we met up with Annette our English friend from the finca in San Rafael who was giving her old boss from the UK a quick guided tour around a small portion of Argentina. We rode into town as the heavens opened up. Our days of bad weather are starting to accumulate and after a warming drink organized some accommodation. Carol found a great place at a really good price (off season) so we settled in and hoped the weather cleared in a few days. The four of us enjoyed a huge meat dinner (parillada) and a lot of laughs. Our hosts at the Apartment hotel however advised that the weather would be cold and wet for another day then should improve so we bide our time hoping to see a little sun.

The road from San Martin to Paso Huahum

A couple of days later the weather was fine and we pack slowly as there was plenty of time to ride the fifty kms of ripio to Puerto Pirihueico via Paso Huahum and catch the 5 pm ferry. Leaving Ruta 234 just outside San Martin we are greeted with our nemeses of freshly graded ripio and two graders providing added entertainment with high mounds of soft soil to jump to avoid their neat maneuvers. We survived the ride and stopped on the edge of Lago Pirihueico after negotiating another Argentina to Chile border crossing.

Welcome to Chile, again

A bullock wagon backing up to the ferry to unload bags of apples at Puerto Pirihueico

Two trucks loaded with wood joined us at the ferry ramp around 4 pm and we confirmed with the drivers in our poor Spanish that the ferry was due at 5 pm. While the ferry was disembarking several more cars arrived which included some of the customs and immigration officials that had just processed our papers on the Chilean side. The lake was like a millpond but Carol noticed fresh snow falls on some of the surrounding peaks. This no doubt fell over the past few days when we were in San Martin as the weather there was very cold. Docking at Puerto Fuy we noted most of the passengers left town immediately. We decided to stay however and rode the seven or eight dirt streets in relative darkness as the smoke from hundreds of heating fires and stoves enveloped the town. Booking into a little Hostel we organized dinner and breakfast and settled in beside the fire. This village was very damp and cold. The gentle tapping of rain awoke us around 6.00am and we contemplated staying another day over breakfast as the rain increased. By the time we were sugaring our second cup of coffee little white fluffy balls were falling outside the dining room window. We were unfazed at first but them it began to settle. The black bike cover was looking more white than black!! I expressed concern to Carol that we should move today in case the snow gets to a point where the road is closed. So we hastily packed the bike as the snow increased and removed a one kilo lump of ice from the folds of the bike cover. Frozen rain… this is cold…..

Snow on the bike at Puerto Fuy

Number plate from Queensland Aus. at La Torres Suiza Hostel

We rode for around 15 kms on soft ripio before the snow stopped. Concern that the puddles of water would freeze over did not eventuate and for almost 200 kms, drizzling rain and cold accompanied us to Villarrica. We found out later that Puerto Fuy is one of those unique places in South America with a micro climate and it was probably the only place experiencing this extreme weather. No wonder all the other passengers did a runner when the ferry docked the previous day.

View from our room of Volcano Villarrica

Sunset

Lago Villarrica

Beat and Claudia made our stay at La Torres Suiza hostel in Villarrica very pleasant. They also are Swiss bicycle travelers who have settled in South America. Tom from La Suizandina (see our 2nd report) just north of Villarrica was visiting while we were there. It was good to catch up and ask him about the fire works from the erupting Volcano Llaima in January. Pucon was under 30 kms away and being off season, was very quiet. The road along Lago Villarrica has numerous campgrounds and plenty of top end Hotels down to hostels but most were closed or looked empty. Our hostel however still had a few people floating through and it is always good to get up to date information from other travelers. Weather, although quite cool was fine so we departed feeling that things may be improving. Our original destination was to be Valdivia but our good friend from Santiago Mario, would be in Osorno for a short time on business so a small detour had us checking out the sights of this busy city.

Fort Niebla near Valdivia

Once again our comfort zone has been encroached and we find the city very cold and windy with a lot of pollution from wood fired heating and cooking. We share a couple of meals with Mario and his business partner and bid them farewell indicating we would be in Santiago within a week or two depending on the weather. Overcast skies and cool was the order of the day enroute to Valdivia. Our routine of visiting the Tourist Office for accommodation info was fruitful and we booked in Hostel International with secure parking, warm rooms and hospitality to match. Rain was forecast the next day but we took the chance and visited Fort Niebla. The weather obliged by fulfilling the forecast so on the return journey we stopped off at the Kunstmann Brewery having heard of the good food served there. We were not disappointed and struggled to get into our wet weather clothes to ride back to town.

Sea Lion Valdivia

Fish Market Valdivia

The next day saw a distinct improvement in the forecast so we walked into the city and over the bridge to the history museum. Alas, all was in Spanish but the photos and period furniture was still very interesting. Highlights of our walk were the sea lions being fed with scraps from the fish markets on the river. Perhaps a dozen or more of these animals gorged themselves for hours then rested on the platforms placed conveniently on the rivers edge. To have easy access to these noisy overweight mammals was a real people pleaser for both tourist and local with the audience growing substantially during the afternoon as the sun made a brief appearance. My dark bike clothing caused a couple of the older larger sea lions to make threatening charges towards me when I moved too close.

Sea Lions

A short journey to Temuco the next day once again had us in the drizzle. We are really a little late to be traveling this far south in Chile. Finding a suitable Hostel in Temuco also proved a problem as it was Sunday and the Tourist Office was closed so we were relying on bits of information extracted from Guide Books and travel brochures. We stumble across one with secure parking and settle in for a day or two. Unfortunately the past cold weather and poor air finally caught up with us and we both came down with really bad colds. We spent four days, most of it in bed, trying to get well in a climate that was both very cold and polluted. We needed sunshine and lots of it. Thinking back over the past 6 months we really have not had a summer this year. The South American summer experienced in the Patagonia was generally much worse than our winters in Brisbane.

Dancing in the streets of Chillan

Parade

Venturing north again we chase the sun and hope to find more than glimpses in Chillan. Not much luck though with a short journey in cloudy cool conditions. We booked into a hostel only two blocks away from the Tourist Office then emailed Jimmy, a man who introduced himself while we were waiting to catch the ferry from Chaiten to the Isla de Chiloe some weeks earlier. Heading to town the next day we found the streets were closed for a parade. Nothing like a parade in a foreign city and it was the 25th April too which is ANZAC Day in Australia. No news from Jimmy so we ventured to the local markets and spent a few hours checking the local handicrafts, flowers and food.

Meat Market Chillan

Fruit and vegetable market

It must have been around 8.00 pm when there was a knock on our door at the hostel and we finally catch up with Jimmy, his partner Marisol and their children. We were taken to a restaurant for dinner and enjoyed a huge steak. Our newly found friends have dreams also of traveling, but now the family comes first. We cannot thank them enough for a really great evening and we vow to keep in contact. We find this hospitality one of the great things about traveling as we spoke only a few words to this man while waiting for the ferry at Chaiten.

Marisol and Jimmy

Our internet weather radar indicated that the climate was always warmer in Santiago so we sent a text to Mario advising we would be arriving Saturday afternoon after riding directly north on Ruta 5. He advised that things were getting cooler there as well but we considered it was no where near as bad as what it was like here in the south. My walking, talking, smiling GPS once again guided us to our destination without a hitch.

Some of the puppies

Some of the members from Aperrados Moto Club

Our days spent with Mario were fun as he now has 12 young puppies to keep him occupied. Talk about chaos at feeding time. Also, we were invited to his motorcycle club’s (www.aperrados.cl) anniversary ride and lunch. One of the clubs members was also a computer whiz and he sorted out our WiFi gremlins at a recent club get together. Many thanks Patricio (Warlock). Meeting up with our friends Bob and Gloria was once again a really fantastic. In all a great time with everyone and we could have easily stayed longer, however we need to keep moving as the sun is shining ever brighter in the north. We vowed to return to Santiago in January next year to catch up with everyone again.

Ken with Gloria and Bob

Aperrados Moto Club ride to Las Cruces

Lakes, Volcanoes, Hot Springs and ORCAS!!

Before departing Puerto Varas we enquired with our host Andy at Casa Azul the whereabouts of a motorcycle shop in Puerto Montt so we could purchase a new front tyre. His direction however was to a shop less than a kilometer away. A small Yamaha dealer who had exactly what we wanted and it matched our current rear tyre. Fitting the tyre in his workshop we departed for Puerto Montt around lunchtime. After all the hassles with the purchase of the rear tyre this was too easy.

On the ferry to Hornopiren

We expected to at least spend a night in Puerto Montt but because our tyre issue was sorted we headed immediately to Hornopiren stopping only to fill with petrol in P. Montt and get some directions to Ruta 7. This road is the start of the Carretera Austral and is paved as far as Lenca and we raced through undulating countryside dotted with farm houses and slow moving vehicles. Corrugations and loose rocks slow the pace to Cta. La. Arena. The dust is all consuming as we are overtaken by fast moving buses trying to catch the next ferry. With all their aggressive driving we arrive only minutes apart and need to wait thirty minutes for the next ferry. Loading was quick with drivers and passengers staying in their vehicles for the fifty minute journey to Cta Puelche. There was a reasonable chop on the way down and riding the nose ramp off the flat bottomed vessel was a little disconcerting due to the 90 degree angle it had moored to get some stability.

Hornopiren Harbour

Helicopter Hornopiren

The road to Hornopiren was a great ride with reasonable gravel, undulating terrain and dense forests. We were directed by the Tourist Office to a small hostel ‘Residencial Austral’, in the back streets of this very small village, run by a family who allowed us to cook dinner on their wood burning stove. If mum could see me now!!! I think I was five when we gave up the old wood stove for an electric one. That’s half a century ago!!!! But who is complaining? Its cold down here and those stoves really keep you warm.

Road between Contao and Hornopiren

Near Hornopiren

We spend two nights here and walked around town on the lay day checking out the salmon hatcheries. A very busy helicopter made several flights a day with what appeared to be a flexible water carrier slung below. Was it carrying fish and water or just water we do not know.

Road along the cliff west of Cte Puelche

Salmon Farm

On the way to Cochamo

It was a cool start to the day as we packed and said goodbye to our host who was a school teacher as well and today was the first day of school after the summer break. Retracing the road back to Cte Puelche we turned east just before the settlement and followed the inlet road along the cliff edges of Estuario de Reloncavi. Close to the cliffs were numerous salmon farms with their white buoys standing stark against the deep blue waters. They detracted from the spectacular scenery but their abundance made salmon in the area very cheap. We make good time despite stopping for numerous photo opportunities and reached Cochamo in the early afternoon. Its siesta time in this dusty little village and nothing was open. We had a drink and a couple of biscuits and head to Ensenada where our guide book indicates a more touristy settlement with plenty of campgrounds. We really appreciated the pavement leading into town as the road dust was choking on this very warm day. Ensenada did not really appear to be a town but rather a strip along the shore of Lago Llanquihue filled with campgrounds, hostels and cabanas. We were through the best of it before we realized as we were looking for the centre of town. The paved road hugging the shoreline was good medicine after the ripio of the past hours and the cone shaped Volcano Osorno gave us glimpses of her beauty between the trees. We passed through Puerto Varas and headed to Frutillar also on Lago Llanquihue, after a recommendation from another motorcyclist.

Church at Cochamo

View of Volcano Osorno

Frutillar has a very German flavour with buildings appearing to have been transported directly from Europe. After a small loop around town we headed to campground a little out of town on the lake and were greeted with a sign “Closed for Maintenance”. Back to town we check into a cheaper looking Hostel and Carol negotiates a better price as the crazy tourist months of January/February are gone and most places have plenty of spare beds.

Black sand beach at Las Cascadas

Las Cascadas on Lago Llanquihue

Once again it is a family hostel and our hosts are amazed at our adventure. We are treated like family again despite our poor Spanish and they assisted us in every way possible to make our stay memorable. However our first night was not comfortable as we both awoke with bites on our legs and arms. I had more than Carol!! At first we thought they were sand flies but we now think they were fleas as the dose increased the second night in more obscure places!

Volcano Osorno

Ski Resort at Volcano Osorno

The road up to the top

Our spare day we decide to ride as far as we could around the lake with time dictating how far we should venture. Reaching Puerto Octay we spy a little grassy camp ground at the waters edge in town... We should have come here to stay but it’s too late now. Continuing, we reach the black sandy beaches of Las Cascadas. Lunching on coffee and empanadas we recharged the batteries, then plow into more ripio as the hilly, narrow road skirts Lago Llanquihue. A great ride through the rain forest beside the blue waters of this huge lake. The pavement started not far from Ensenada but a road sign ‘Vulcan Osorno’ with a very new surface was too tempting. The left turn was made and we rode the perfect paved road up the side of Osorno. Carol hopped off at a lookout at around the 5 km mark and I continued alone to the top for another 6 or more kms. A restaurant and ski resort stopped the road near the snow line. A few pictures and back down to Carol who was chatting to a well traveled Swiss man from Puerto Varas. Due to the lateness of the hour we retraced the road around the lake to P. Varas and onto Frutillar. A museum about 100 metres away from the hostel entertained us the following day, giving a brief history of the German migration to the area in the 1800’s.

Frutillar Chile

Another view of Volcano Osorno from Frutillar

Scratching vigorously we departed Frutillar and headed just a short ride to Aguas Calientes (thermal springs) in Parque Nacional Puyehue. There was only 40 kms of very dusty ripio then a great ride along the shores of Lago Puyehue. Numerous campgrounds dotted the waters edge but most were empty. A sign that the summer tourist season was drawing to a close. Arriving, it was siesta time again. We are good at this!!! Deciding the facilities were OK we headed back to Entre Lagos to buy supplies and on the return trip we bumped into Maria, Alistair and Uschi who were headed west. A brief discussion on the side of the road and their plans were altered to join us at the hot springs.

Hot pools at Aguas Calientes Chile

This one never gets cold!!

The natural pools, Aguas Calientes

Our three tents, four bikes and five people fitted into one campsite which was well equipped, a covered table (with light), an asado (BBQ) pit, and a covered wash basin. The free hot springs in the river bed ranged from warm to extremely hot with the shallow river being very cold. This National Park was very popular with Argentineans and facilities included a restaurant two thermal pools (swimming pools) and many ‘A’ framed cabanas of various sizes. Our second night was disturbed by rain and by mid morning our tent site was bordering on being submerged. A hasty exit was arranged to a cabana which came with a fire place used to dry our very wet gear. The next morning Alistair and Maria’s tent which was hung on the front deck to dry was covered in frost. Winter is on its way!!

Our campsite at Aguas Calientes

Flooded!!

Cabanas Aguas Calientes

Departure day… Maria, Alistair and Uschi headed west and we headed east to Bariloche.
Our umpteenth border crossing was a breeze as we headed along fantastic mountain roads with complimentary vistas. The surrounding mountains had lost their snow blanket since our visit in November 07. The city was still buzzing however and accommodation was still at a premium price with our previous (November 07) Cabana being fully booked. We checked into a new hostel advised to us by Maria and Alistair and organized our Spanish lessons at La Montana.

We retreated to this dry, warm cabin for the night

Team Robinson

Uschi and her ‘calf’ bike

The course commenced the following Monday so with a few days spare we rode to El Bolson to visit Klaus and Claudia, a German couple who rode XT500s around the world for sixteen years, finishing the year we started our first RTW journey. They wrote a best selling book on their fantastic experience (in German) and our stay was full of tales and past experiences. We shared the peaceful riverside campsite with four travelers from Germany, two on bicycles and two in a car, enjoying a great asado on the final night together.

Route planning, El Bolson

Claudia and Klaus

Back to Bariloche and our Spanish course. Our home-stay was to assist in our learning but we really should have been separated for the time… We learnt a lot but putting it into practice is another thing. Our pronunciation is the biggest problem and putting a sentence together is still near on impossible. Our friends and other travelers say we need a month of teaching and practice and to be kept apart so we do not speak any English!!!! So we push on with our poor “Spanglish” and maybe find some real time to learn this language we will need for at least the next 18 months.

Look close, this is not a real tree! Bariloche

We had originally planned to venture to the east coast of Argentina to see the Killer Whales next year, but travelers in the hostel advised that sightings were happening now. Once again we change our route and head to Peninsula Valdes on the east coast, via Neuquen. Here we were to meet up with a biker we had met in Islamabad campground in 2000 but all good plans of men and….. so we plan to meet somewhere down the road a little further.

This road could be in Australia, Ruta 3 Argentina

Puerto Piramides, Peninsula Valdes

The road east was uneventful other than a 20 minute delay at a road block near Choele Choel caused by truckers/farmers protesting a recent tax increase by the government. After an overnight stop in San Antonio Oeste we continued to Puerto Piramides on Peninsula Valdes. A very brief ride around town (small) and we booked into a dorm room at Posada Piramides a great little hostel with plenty of spare beds. We had the room to ourselves!!

Hostel Piramides

Puerto Norte is where we had great expectations of seeing these huge creatures beach themselves to feed on sea lion pups taking their first swim. There are famous photos of these maneuvers in many international nature magazines. We would have been happy just to see a few of them up close!!!

Orcas one, Sea Lions zero!

Orca Punta Norte

The 75 km of road out to the viewing point was not our favorite surface, freshly graded ripio with numerous soft patches and deep gravel. Three graders were working on the road and Carol was very nervous after our previous fall in similar conditions near Futaleufu in Chile. Reaching the coast around 11.45am with high tide at 4.00pm we had plenty of time to check out the best vantage points. The beaches were out of bounds except for paying customers like National Geographic so our vantage point was a sandy cliff edge near the rangers view point. We met an American lady who filled us in on where the Orcas would come in to get their ‘lunch’ so we stuck close to our Ranger lady who was getting radio reports on where the latest sightings were. Chances to see a “stranding” were best two hours either side of high tide.

The Attack

Orcas two, Sea Lions zero!

Around 1.00pm we could see a pod of four Orcas about 800 metres to our right. Along this stretch were three small colonies of sea lions with another colony to our left. For two hours we watched this pod venture ever closer to the shore on the incoming tide with resident sea lions unperturbed by their presence. On the beach was a large log with several photographers hiding and waiting for perhaps that lucky shot.

Swim Sea Lion swim

Too late, Orcas three Sea Lions zero

While all this was happening “Mel” the number one male in the area arrived to our left exposing his huge dorsal fin for around forty minutes but only circling in a small patch almost out of view. This Orca has been photographed numerous times, gracing the pages of many nature magazines and appearing on several postcards sold in the area.

The Orcas hunting in a circle

The Attack

Orcas four, Sea Lions zero

A commotion diverted our attention back to the pod on our right where a hasty exit had been made from the ‘killing channel’ some 800 metres away. They were heading directly towards us with their easy bobbing motion replaced with a motorboat like push towards the sea lions swimming just to our right. Arriving at the colony they pursued swimming sea lions with much gusto. We believe a strike occurred as the killer whales all retired to a spot about 1km off shore with a concentration of sea gulls indicating there were food scraps around.

Number one orca Big Mel

Orca close to the beach

Punta Norte

Suddenly, the largest of the four orcas was heading back to shore alone and at a serious rate of knots. It headed directly towards our vantage point on the sandy cliffs pursuing an adult female sea lion. We videoed the strike close to shore. No “stranding” occurred but there was a lot of splashing as the orca floundered in the shallow waters and struggled to take its kill out to sea. I am still shocked at this sighting as we had heard people can wait weeks to see something like this and we jag a sighting on our first attempt. Finally, the pod of three remaining orcas ventured closer to shore in the same area directly in front of us, teaming up to form a circle to entrap and kill a sea lion. The white water created in this attack was incredible.

Armadillo

To add to the excitement of the day two very tame armadillos scampered around the cliff edges between people’s legs and baggage. Absolutely no fear at all!!!

Some days it is really worth getting out of bed!!!

A sad sight of this part of nature however, is to see the orphaned sea lion pups calling forlornly for their mothers along the waters edge at the end of the day.

Tomorrow we head to Puerto Madryn to service the moto. After that…who knows!!

Ringing Mirrors on the Carretera Austral

Los Antiguos and its paved roads faded quickly into the distance as we headed south on Ruta 41. The ripio was sandy and corrugated (washboard) and the newly repaired fairing rattled more than I would have liked. Stopping, we contemplated returning to an easier route but a quick inspection revealed a loose mounting bolt. On the road again and things were a fair bit quieter as we rattled along. Around the fifteen kilometre mark we were stopped by the Chilean Police in the middle of a fairly inhospitable piece of real estate. A bit of sign language and ‘Spanglish’ we deciphered that a bicycle race was in progress and there would be around a 15 minute delay until all competitors had passed safely. Forty minutes later the backup vehicle appeared after around a dozen bike riders gathered around the Police vehicle and drank quickly from their bottles. They were looking a little spent as well as dusty and the ripio to Los Antiguos would certainly sap their last little bit of energy. Resuming, we road through quite different country side, that, although little better than Ruta 40, was more entertaining because of the varied track and scenery . There was flat country with stones and sand and steep climbs into undulating hills. Some of the higher roads gave great views of the arid terrain. Sheep, cattle and horses were the only animal life seen. Traffic was almost non existent and because of the open country, could be spotted a long time before they ever reached us. We rode down a very steep grade to the Argentinean border post. This place is so remote, and the officer processed our papers in record time. There were no tour coaches in this part of the world. The nine kilometres of narrow gravel that separated the border to Chile was rough and indicative of what was to come over the next sixty kms. Chile always takes a little longer with the paper work and they always like to have a bit a chat when they inspect our luggage and documents. The next bit of road was the roughest we had tackled so far and the corrugation (washboard) was teeth rattling stuff at any speed. Arriving at Cochrane we had just completed our first few kms of the Carretera Austral and what a dusty road pounded by the sheer volume of traffic, no doubt. Today we had only traveled just over 200 kms but it felt like a 1,000kms!!! Heading to the town square we met up with Thomas and Katharina from Germany who had been with our huge party of travelers at Ushuaia for Christmas and New Year.

The start of Ruta 41

Ruta 41

Bicycle race on Ruta 41

View back to Lago Buenos Aires

A little bit of green in Argentina

Follow the yellow flower way

Ruta 41

The road from Paso Roballos to Cochrane

We stayed a couple of nights in Cochrane although to say the least it was quiet town. The loudest noise in town was the Rock and Roll music blasting out of the Tourist Office on the town square. The way Cochrane was spoken of by other travelers we had imagined it to be a little bigger. We stayed at the Hostel Austral for a couple of nights walking the town on the spare day. Packing the bike was tackled early (for us) the following day for our 200 km plus ride to O’Higgins as we needed to reach a ferry service that crossed a span of water where no road existed around the edge of the lake. Our plans went completely astray when I noticed the rear sub-frame welded in Los Antiguos had broken again due to the severe road conditions between the border and Cochrane. Our handy little map obtained from the tourist office when we arrived listed a mechanic who obliged the community and many travelers in way of repairs. Inspecting the damage he tossed his head and said ‘no problema’ and promptly left me to remove all the obstructions to the job including the back-box and mudguard. In a matter of minutes several vehicles had arrived with flat tyres. He eventually got to the bike after six puncture repairs with my welding being interrupted twice for travelers requiring urgent tyre repairs. A very busy man. His welding albeit rough looked the business and to date has held even after some pretty severe roads.

Rio Baker near Cochrane

Our southern departure was delayed until around 3.30 pm and we had at that time a 115km ride to catch the last ferry at 6.00pm. We took off thinking we had a good chance of making it and things were going well until we reached the Tortel turnoff where the sign said 30 kms to the ferry. We had only twenty minutes and the kms to the port would have blown out to around 140 +. Once again the signage and maps did not correspond with the actual distance only being 21 kms. We arrived with the ferry about 30 metres from the dock and heading away at full speed. Our longing looks and waving did not reverse the Captain’s course.

Camping at Puerto Yungay

Pto Yungay was an Army base with few facilities for tourists so we gestured to the soldiers we wished to camp and they pointed to an open piece of ground near to the boat ramp road. There were dark clouds rolling in and when the Captain spoke to us about using the ‘banos’ (toilet/shower facilities) he also indicated there would be rain soon. So we pitched the tent and made a cup of tea and sucked in the scenery and pondered ‘what if’. Our packet soup with a fresh bread roll from the Captain was enjoyed before we hit the sack. Not long before turning in we saw a vehicle roar in and head to the ferry ramp. Now 'they' were late. We noticed the Captain sprint down and escort them back up the hill and to an old house where we believe they spent the night. Shame they never offered us a room. But all was OK in our tent. At around 6.00am the following morning the rain started. Its rather nice laying in your sleeping bag listening to rain tapping on your tent… but only if you have no where to go. We packed our wet tent reluctantly and ventured down to the ferry 60 metres away. Several vehicles had queued but the bike was the first on. The crossing was a millpond and looking at the cliffs to the waters edge it would be years before the road to O’Higgins would be completed. Riding the remaining 100 or so kms was fun. The track was tight, rough and stony through the rain forest with the low shrubs clipping our mirrors causing them to ring. Numerous lakes, waterfalls and streams dotted the route and the bridges under construction indicated that this area would not be so isolated for very much longer.

Ferry linking Puerto Yungay to the O´Higgins road Ruta 7

The road to Villa O´Higgins

Bridge upgrades are happening all along Ruta 7

O’Higgins is a sleepy little village waiting for something to happen. The rain followed us intermittently into town and the clouds looked dark despite assurances from one campground owner that it would only rain a little now and the afternoon would be dry. We opted for Hostel Patagonia a family run place with atmosphere to burn. A shed to park the bike with a long haired German Shepherd to guard it. We spent the remainder of the day walking the village and buying some supplies. The following day (Saturday) there was a twelve hour boat ride to a Glacier O’Higgins, a recently opened excursion that is attracting many tourists. We opted to head out as the weather still did not look great and the road we came in on was riddled with cleared land slides with the odd rock still falling onto the road. Our aim today was to make it back to Cochrane and avoid the rain that appeared ominous. A side trip to Tortel was interesting with people actively pushing a questionnaire about the government’s intention to build several dams to provide electricity for industry concerns in the north. The feel was like Tasmania and the Franklin Dam saga. It rained in Cochrane that night.. and it never rains in Cochrane!!!

Waterfall on the O´Higgins road

Rain and mist ahead on the Carretera Austral

Cliff hugging road to O´Higgins

Rain forest area along Ruta 7 (O'Higgins Rd)

Caleta Tortel with its no roads, only boardwalks policy

The road out the next day was still dusty despite the rain and filling up on the outskirts of town, we spoke to a German couple whose approach to travel was a little different to ours.. a very large motor home. Sometimes we envy their comfort but sometimes I believe they envy our mobility. On the dusty road again we headed north on the famous Carretera Austral. The ripio was on a par with most we had ridden only with a lot more dust. Scenery included fast flowing rivers through undulating hills to huge blue lakes. There is so much fresh water in South America. The road wound its way through dusty sleepy villages often with patient backpackers sound asleep propped up on their packs waiting for the next bus or even a vehicle to hitch a ride. Pto. Bertrand to Pto. Tranquilo twisted its way through the hills revealing postcard views of Lago General Carrera or Lago Buenos Aires depending on what side of the border you lived.

Gravel on Ruta 7 north of Cochrane

The lovely blue Lago General Carrera

The wind joined us after Pto Tranquilo and persisted until we reached Coyhaique. We must mention the drivers along this stretch were a little fast for the conditions with overloaded minibuses searching for the smoothest, quickest piece of road exploding dust trails in their wake. Carol took to waving them down to slow them as we hit white-outs a couple of times. A recently rolled Pajero sighted on this route indicated many were not experienced with the conditions. The 100 kms of pavement from Villa Cerro. Castillo was a slice of heaven. The wind however was unrelenting and its strength was so intense that the bike moved sideways with each gust. Perhaps the government could consider wind energy instead of the dams!!

The main Plaza in Coyhaique

Rainbow over the hay stacks north of Coyhaique

We met up with Maria and Alistair in Coyhaique who were still waiting for parts from Germany to rebuild Maria’s bike after a collision with another biker just South of Villa Cerro. Castillo. We spent a few days here meeting a Doctor friend of our HU helper Mario from Santiago. It was fun socializing with everyone including meeting the Grey Nomads (UK) (XT 600 Tenere) who were heading in a similar direction. The batteries recharged we hit the road again. The rain in Coyhaique was sporadic but we left under a blue sky and hoped optimistically that things would improve the further north we rode. This was not to be and our ride to Puyuhuapi was our wettest to date. We made the wrong decision this time and what could have been a fantastic days riding turned into a shocker. The first 120kms was perfect pavement and despite the rain made for a pleasant ride. The ripio was another thing with the potholes filled with muddy water under the drizzling rain. The only respite was there was no dust. Vehicles were few and far between and the ripio was broken by a new piece of pavement but only for 24 kms. The rain continued as the ripio joined us again and the pace slowed to meet the conditions. The road narrowed to almost one lane as we entered Park Nac. Magdalena. Imagining this track in fine weather was hard but surely it would have been fantastic. Once again the encroaching rain forest clipped our mirrors causing them to ring as we climbed into the mist. We took to tooting our horn to warn oncoming traffic of our presence as they had ventured more than once to our side of the road on very tight bends. About 7kms from Puyuhuapi we were stopped at road works. The track was a mess with the loose soil turning to mud and trucks carting rocks and soil around us causing deep ruts. We sat for an hour in the drizzling rain until the track was cleared. Unfortunately the oncoming traffic moved first causing more damage to the muddy track. Sourcing accommodation was quick as the rain eased. We booked into a small family run Hostel and shared a room with two Israeli backpackers. A fun night as we shared cooking secrets from the road with the family and residents. Our Chilean hosts were intrigued to see a man cooking. This was an interesting home with the ladies gathered around a combustion stove chatting for hours as they tended their chores, ironing, cooking, drying clothes and plenty of talking. A different life style not seen too often these days. We stayed an extra night to ensure the rain had gone and to dry out a bit more. A short ride to Futaleufu today with more of the same road conditions, corrugation, stones and dust. The scenery was green with plenty of logging visible. The winter’s log piles dotted along the road with trucks collecting tons at a time to take to the towns nearby. Riding east from Villa Sta. Lucia we edged beside lakes and rivers and noticed trout fisherman at various intervals and as we drew closer to town the white water rafting companies tagged the road with their billboards.

Ruta 7 south of Puyuhuapi

The two girls were our room mates in Puyuhuapi

Petrol prices in Puyuhuapi

The view over the water at Puyuhuapi

The narrow Carretera Austral Ruta 7

Wood stacks onlong the road north of La Junta

German traveller heading south

Camping on the river was a must and we pitched a fair distance from the main sites anticipating some late night partying by the holidaying Chileans. Our view could not have been better and we could have stayed longer than the two nights if we had not other things to see and do. Departing we headed out the way we came in and back to the Carretera Austral. Unfortunately about thirty kms from Villa Sta. Lucia road upgrades were taking place and a grader had done its best to make a bad road better but in our books made it worse. After around twenty kms I ventured too close to the edge of the road searching for a smoother track when the front wheel sunk followed by the back and we did a deft little slide and a touch down, breaking the welds on the right pannier. A quick patch job with hose clamps, we were on the road again to be greeted by more road works on the Carretera Austral heading north. The conditions were compounded by more rain. Fortunately the distance was only around the fifty kms before pavement started and stayed with us till Chaiten.

Rafting near Futaleufu

Finger licking good but not KFC

Our campsite at Futaleufu

It was our plan to stock up with food and head to Parque Pumalin for two nights and come back to Chaiten to catch the ferry to Quellon on the Isla de Chiloe. Now due to our little spill we needed to find a welder and although we had collected a few possible hostels to stay at we were focused on one recommended on the HU site, Casa Hexagon. It was a little difficult to find but it was worth it. Our host and owner was away doing what we are doing but the casa was left in very capable hands (Rita and Mirian) and our stay here was up there with some of the best travelers rests we have enjoyed. We ventured towards an address to see if the welding could be done and when less than 60 metres away from the Casa, we saw a man standing outside his workshop with a major welding project nearing completion. Our nominated repairer was only too happy to oblige and after an hour of welding and two hours of coffee/talking we departed. Cost ….nothing. This is one of the great things about traveling.

Our welding man in Chaiten

The view from our room in Chaiten

Casa Hexagon in Chaiten

We enjoyed three nights in this haven as Carol was beating off a reoccurring stomach bug, this time with antibiotics. It had been with her too long and her stubbornness finally relented to take something. We missed visiting Parque Pumalin which we really wanted to see…. Another journey perhaps as we were booked onto the Chaiten to Quellon ferry on the Saturday.

Inside Casa Hexagon

Rita and Mirian who looked after us at Casa Hexagon

Peter and Sue (Grey Nomads) arrived in Chaiten on the Friday so they joined us for the delayed journey across to Quellon on Isla de Chiloe . The disembarking vehicles were hampered by a truck broken down on the ferry so we left about and hour behind schedule.

The ferry from Chaiten to Quellon

Mist over Chaiten

The five plus hour crossing was calm and we enjoyed a great conversation with Peter and Sue about roads traveled on our ‘old’ bikes. “Old people on Old bikes”. Not too many ‘old’ bikes doing what we are doing with the huge range of hi tech new ones now available. Quellon with its tight busy streets greeted us in the late afternoon sun, however our departure was swift as we headed to Chonchi around seventy kms away. Our guide book made mention of a pleasant Hostel on the water. A room with a view is always appreciated and due to the lateness of our arrival we ate out at a little restaurant nearby. The Salmon was delicious but Carol was still struggling with her tummy and could only eat a few papas fritas (chips). Our host Carlos, informed us of an annual fair that was taking place nearby the next day. Nothing like a bit of local fun and culture but the food vendors were the main places I wanted to visit! Parking the bike we noticed the Yamaha of our English friends Peter and Sue, who had camped down the road the previous night. They had also found the fair. We found them having a little camp under a shady tree. It was a very warm day. We did a little grazing on the local foods and drinks and headed back to town around 7.00 pm. Life’s tough.

Apple crushing for juice at the Fair in Chonchi

Preparing Chuchoca, Pan de Papa

Chuchoca, the end result

The next day we departed and traveled a mammoth twenty kms to Castro. A much larger centre with a very active town square. We did a few laps around town looking for a camp ground but most were some kms away from the centre so we opted for a cheap hostel only a couple of blocks from the supermarket and square. The pan flute music emanating from the square attracted our attention and we sat for and over an hour listening to this five piece band from Ecuador as they entertained passersby. The sun was warm and the day was easy and our planned sightseeing was postponed till the morrow. We have time!! The music was too good so we bought the CD. Hope it’s as good as the live performance. A taste of South America. Did a little more sight seeing the next day but had to move the bike when we returned as a load of chopped wood had arrived. Heating for winter. Must have been two tones of the stuff and all hand loaded and unloaded. It took over three hours..

Pan flute band from Ecuador

We could listen to this music all day

Castro by the sea

Firewood at the hostel in Castro

The early mist over the water lifted just before we left but it joined us again about ten kilometers out of town. We saw very little on the road to Chacao to catch the ferry to Pargua on our way to Puerto Mont. There was a little respite closer to the port but fires either side of the road were of some concern as we noticed plantations of eucalypts flourishing and we all know how they burn in a bush fire. The dreaded cigarette butt out the car window is very prevalent here.

Bonsai at Casa Azul in Puerto Varas

A wonderfull place to stay, Casa Azul

Inside Casa Azul

Fellow travelers advised us to stay at Puerto Varas on Lago Llanquihue rather than Puerto Montt and do a day- trip to the major port. Added to this advice was the meeting of a young German girl in Chonchi (Louisa) who worked at Casa Azul in Puerto Varas, so on checking out this Casa, we saw why it was such a hit on the back backers list. A two story wooden building with around a hundred bonsai trees decorating the Japanese garden and pond. Inside, raw timber walls and floors made for a warm atmosphere. Andy, our host has created a little slice of traveler’s heaven. We stay a day longer….its raining….

Tomorrow we will head to Puerto Montt when it’s fine.

Leaving Ushuaia

On the fifth of January it snowed which was to be our day of finally leaving Ushuaia, not that we wanted to leave. Despite the crazy weather we loved this place so we delayed our departure another day, finally leaving around 1.00pm on the sixth of January and headed to Rio Grande. The weather was sunny in Ushuaia but once in the mountains the skies closed in and around 70 kms from Rio Grande the rain started drizzling. In a fine patch of sky we stopped to check out a beaver dam that we spotted heading south a few weeks before. Alas the dam had been destroyed, possibly by the farmer as a lot of water had banked up behind it. Carol took this opportunity to have a wee stop….It was a very hurried one as the path beside the road was used by the local dirt bikers and she was buzzed by three bikers just as she was walking up the embankment!!

Carol appearing from a wee stop just as a dirt bike rider approaches, that was close!

Graciela, Ricardo and Vanessa outside Hostel Argentino, Rio Grande

Graciela at Hostel Argentino was her usual amicable self. What a great place to stay, being very relaxed with plenty of travelers to chat to. We had a great night talking to an Argentinean couple, Ricardo and Vanessa on an Africa Twin who were heading south. We did not get to bed until 2.30am so we did not envy them as they packed their bike ready to head to Ushuaia in very wet and windy weather. Their pack was extraordinary. Huge duffle bags wrapped in plastic and so many layers of clothing they could hardly move. It took ages for them to get going, probably hoping the weather would improve. Reminded us of ourselves!!! We were told of a local printer who we used to make more business cards/stickers. The price was right so we took a photo of Graciela’s “Hostel Argentino” sign and had some stickers made for her. The Hostel was pretty full tonight as Ushi (DR 350), Denny and Silvia (R1200GS & 650GS) from Germany along with several bicycle riders and back packers swelled the international traveling numbers.

Leaving Graciela’s Hostel Rio Grande

Our departure for Porvenir then Punta Arenas was delayed as Ushi advised us of pending strong winds in the area. She was right… So we hunkered down for a day doing domestic stuff like washing, internet and diaries. We also enjoyed a conversation on Skype with our BMW club president in Australia. Nice one Tony.

Pink Flamingos on the road to Porvenir

Wind assistance, the road to Porvenir

Brazilian girl with the flat tyre

The ride out of Rio Grande was windy…again…but not the 90kmh of the day before. Being fine it was a pleasant ride to the border crossing which took a little extra time due to a couple of buses clogging up the system. The ripio was quite good after San Sebastian with little traffic. Flamingoes on a small lake added to the highlights of this ride and when the road swung down to the edge Bahia Inlet, it became even better. Around 40 kms from Porvenir we came across a young Brazilian girl riding a 250 Yamaha. She had a flat tyre and no tools or patches to repair it. She appeared to be quite overloaded and after a brief conversation discovered that her father had crashed on his bike that morning and was in Porvenir Hospital. Her father’s bike was at an Estancia nearby and after collecting some of his luggage was on her way to Porvenir when she had the flat tyre and crashed. A little sore but otherwise OK. We fixed the flat just as Denny and Silvia arrived. We had crossed the border with them earlier and the four of us eventually ended up riding into Porvenir together with the Brazilian girl. There was no ferry to Punta Arenas today so we booked onto the 8.00am service the following day.

Bikes aboard the ferry to Punta Arenas

Porvenir to Punta Arenas. Six bikes were bundled onto the ferry along with numerous vehicles. Glad we got there early as a few people missed out. The boat was packed with vehicles as well as many walk on passengers. The crossing was smooth…just as well as no vehicles were tied down for the 2.5 hour journey.

Andrew and Emily and another two Aussies!

Punta Arenas looked smaller than the 120,000 people advised by our guide book but we headed to our Hostel as recommended by a fellow traveller and promptly bumped into Alistair and Maria, motorcyclists who were at Ushuaia for Christmas. They were here to retrieve a tyre ordered through a local bike shop and being road freighted down from Santiago. We were also in dire need of a rear tyre and were hoping that something would be available in this major town. No such luck so we played the routine and ordered one from Santiago through the local bike shop. First attempt at this was on the Friday however there was a big