August 2009 Update Belem to Manaus The Long Way

Belem appeared busy every day of the week with people bustling around even on the weekends. Our boat ride organized and with the help of Alex who also owns a small motorcycle shop, we were able to find a suitable knobby front tyre for the anticipated dirt roads ahead. Pirelli MT 21’s are manufactured in Brazil but they are almost impossible to find. Even the Honda dealer did not have them listed in his Pirelli tyre book. Even the Metzler Sahara 3 also manufactured in Brazil was not available. The Mitas (rear) we had fitted in Curitiba Brazil some 10,000 kms ago still looked up for the task and should make the round trip to Manaus.

Alex’s bike shop in Belem

July 2009 Update Brazil

While we were enjoying our time in Parati we received an email from another motorcycle traveler who had suffered the square wheel syndrome after hitting a large square pothole (man made) due for a repair job. Several spokes were broken and she was now waiting in the small village of Lencois for the repair to be completed in Salvador. Cecilia (Swiss) rides a weathered R100GSPD and her reputation preceded her as we had heard from other travelers of her adventures and problems experienced in South America. Cecilia sent us an email saying things had gone a little astray and she had been waiting in Lencois for almost six weeks. Adjusting our planned schedule we headed to Lencois to see if we could give some assistance and also there was the chance we could have a riding companion to Belem should the work be completed as she was also heading in that direction. Lencois looked like a two to three day ride from Belo Horizonte.

Waiting at road block/detour North of Belo Horizonte

June 2009 Update

We stayed in Campo Grande for a couple of extra days on the invite of Rodrigo and Luciane. It was Rodrigo’s birthday in a few days and it was bound to be a fun party. With Luciane we enjoyed more sight seeing around the city including Parque das Nacoes Indigenas highlighted with the sighting of a group of capybaras on the river bank. We enjoyed a pleasant night for Rodrigo’s party at a very busy bar/restaurant with around a dozen friends. The night was cool and we arrived home only to continue our conversations to the wee hours of the morning. Our departure was delayed due to our late night/early morning but eventually we said our goodbyes and made the short distance (200 kms) to Agua Clara. A very busy town full of trucks and way too many speed bumps. An overpriced hotel and a poor breakfast saw us on the road early when we could not find the local internet open. It was 9.15 am and the Lan café was locked up with not a soul in sight despite listing opening hours from 9.00am till 12.00pm.

Night shot Main Plaza in Campo Grande

May 2009 Update Brazil

Some clouds in the sky after a bit of a late sleep. We walked the city of Santo Angelo in the morning but found everything closed. It was a public holiday!!! Gilson met up with his daughters who had returned from school in Santa Maria for the long weekend. Poliana the eldest, was studying English and she returned with Gilson to give a hand with all the translations necessary when no computer was at hand. Fagundes and Luciane arrived around 6.00 pm and later in the evening we all rode to a local fair that was the hot spot of the night’s activities. We walked the grounds for some time interrupted only by a quick meal before observing a live music concert. This was all in Portuguese however we were kept well informed with translations of most conversations and even the words of the songs by Poliana. The evening was completed with a couple of chocolate coated strawberry kebabs!!

Gilson and his daughter Poliana

April 2009 Update

Delaying our departure from Rocha was the correct decision with a clear blue sky greeting us early in the morning. Hotel Arrarte included a light breakfast in the price and after a quick pack we were on the road early. The Southern Atlantic coastline of Uruguay shares a lot with the Pacific on Australian shores although the prolific predatorial wildlife of the Australian waters is not present here. We visited several beaches in the region including La Paloma, Costa Azul, La Predera and Punta del Diablo. The beaches were very quiet despite having excellent surf and a lot of the businesses were also closed. While enjoying a lunch of fresh fish at Punta del Diablo the weather decided to do a U turn and a very strong wind began moving some very dark overweight clouds in our direction. A few photos and a hasty departure we headed back to La Aguada Campground at Costa Azul. The choice of places to camp was not limited with the grounds having hundreds of available sites and only two occupied. Such are the extremes of the tourist industry in South America. I can only visualize what the grounds would be like over the Christmas New Year period and we were even a little surprised the grounds were open as in Argentina and Chile most of these types of facilities would have closed. Our host was very helpful and while doing a little internet in the reception another two travelers (backpackers) arrived to swell the numbers.

Hotel Arrarte in Rocha