We awoke a little late after last nights frivoloty, but not to worry - Holland and Arnhem was not far away. We left at 10am and got onto the Berlin ring road and found the motorway to Amsterdam. We blasted all the way at 80/90mph and was in Arnhem and looking for a hotel by 3pm. We exchanged some dollars in a bank and got some directions to a hotel, a best western about 300metres down the road, ( how lucky are we - the Dolby curse must be going !! ). At the hotel we asked about secure parking, and the receptionist gave us directions to get around to the back of the hotel to the parking. " By the way " she said as we walked off, " They are one way streets so if the Police stop you - tell them you're tourists and you didn't know". We looked at each other and burst out laughing, " And I never told you that" she added. The receptionist met us at the rear of the hotel, " Follow me" she said and directed us inside the hotel were the kitchen storeroom and potwash area was. " Put one there, and one there" she said and pointing with her finger. We both looked at each other, suprised and shocked but did as we were told. Bikes parked up and us showered and changed, we asked at the receptionist about " The Bridge Too Far ". As it happens, It turns out to be 10mins walk from the hotel. We got a small map and saw advertised on it - an Irish bar. Sightseeing and photos done and off we toddle to this Irish bar. Much of a muchness really but nice al the same. With the ferry port 90miles away - no need to wake early - we had a leisurely breakfast and walked to the Bridge too far. The receptionist was spot on, 10mins from the hotel. Photos and filming done, we walked back to the hotel. Once back at the hotel the receptionist mentiones to us about Osterbeek - the famous hotel where the Parachute regiment had there H.Q during the war and as featured in the film - A Bridge Too Far. We couldn't miss that and it would tie in nicely with Red Square and Aushwitz, so we get booted and spurred ( motorcycle gear on ) and set off to find Osterbeek. Its well signposted and took us only 30mins to get there. From the outside the hotel ( which is a museum now ) is immaculate. There's an American tank and artillery gun outside the entrance. Once inside , and the building is full of photos , medals, uniforms and memorabilia from people who actually fought the battle. The place is really interesting and worth seeing if you ever get the chance. We spent nearly 2 hours in the museum, but we would because of our military backgrounds. Tomorrow its on the ferry and home, and the end of a trip which has been amazing. I will update the page for the last time when we are home, with MY thoughts on the trip. Paul will do his no doubt, some time soon. Thanks for reading these and we hope you found them interesting. Mark Dolby - The Real Way Round.

We got up at about 7am and packed the bikes. We weren't sure if breakfast was in with the price but I said I wanted a cup of tea - the usual cup of black tea with one sugar - something me and Paul have come to, like as its very refreshing. The man on reception proceeded to bring us bread rolls, ham and cheese so I guess it was included. We set off with some directions I got off another guest to find the elusive Kutna Hora, and by luck, chance or because we've got good at it, we got to the Chuch of Bones at 9:30am. You have to pay to get in and also pay to take photo's and video which we didn't mind. The Church is a strange place, Human bones everywhere, hanging from the ceiling, stacked up and made into what looks like Christmas decorations and even writing made out of them. We did the filming and photo's and went outside to take a photo of the virgin Mary which stands on the roof between the two towers. We rode on to Prague and have difficulty finding the road to Dresden and waste an hour fannying around - but thats life. We head to Dresden and get caught up in queues ( lorries are a pain in the but ). Border control no problem and of we go, following this black ribbon of tarmac to Dresden and then on to Berlin. Once on the motorway, we're off at a good pace (80/90mph), tyres are going good though a little noisy at speed ( well they are nobblies ). 40 miles from Berlin and we're down to one bar on the fuel gauges so we pull over and have a stress relief argument ( not the first ), luckily Paul remembers that his camping cooker takes unleaded fuel and shares it between the bikes. We set off around a sweeping right hand bend only to find at the other side a sign for petrol 5 km away ( Bugger, we would have made it on what fuel we had ), so we'd had an argument for f..k all really. We filled up raced to Berlin where we leave the motorway to find a hotel/motel. The first one we found was full, but the second - no problem. 1 room, 2 beds for 2 nights - its expensive - but we thought we might have a problem getting a room in Berlin full stop, because of the World cup. We had an alarm call at 7am, showered and went to reception to get some idea of how to get into Berlin ( not by taxi - too expensive ). The young woman showed us where to get the metro ( fantastic !! - another adventure in this big adventure ). We walked past a supermarket ( called Kaisers, would you believe ) and turned down a side street where we stopped a passer by to ask where the metro station was. She looked over her shoulder and pointed. Their it was, 50metres away and we felt so stupid. Tickets in our grubby little mitts and we're on the S47 train and know we have to change after 7 stops onto the U6 and then get off at Freidlesburg. Seems easy I though with a bit of irony, but we had no problem ( as you would expect after riding the worlds largest continent ). Once in Berlin, WOW what a sight, people from all over the world in their team colours, flags, scarfs and all sorts of bizare clothing on. Paul wanted to see the Brandeburg gate, Reichstag and checkpoint charlie, so with map in hand we set off at a quick pace stopping only to check we were going in the right direction. Reichstag done, we were off, Brandenburg gate done and off again to checkpoint charlie. All done so we can relax, and we decided to head back to the Brandenburg gate to watch a match on the massive plasma screen that had been erected there and called the fan fest area. Beers bought and we sat on a bench, soaking up the electrfying atmosphere. After the match we head back to the hotel on the metro again (return tickets), looking forward to the evening match and the chance to wear our new tops bought earlier ( The World Cup Germany - 2006 ). When I planned the trip, it never entered my head that we would be in Germany while the World Cup was on - What a bonus. Got some video of the crazy buses we've seen just for my boss David Shipp - hope you like it.

We woke quite late and had Mc Donalds for breakfast (I'm sick of the stuff )and head off to change some money in a supermarket. The hotel phone for a taxi to take us to Warsaw. When it arrives it looks like an American cab - weird. The taxi takes us to the perfect place - the old town. We bought a mini guide and took the rest of the day sightseeing ( lots of photo's and film). The taxi picked us back up where he dropped us off and we go to the petrol station for some nibbles and beer and settled down in our room to catch up on the world cup. We went to the restaurant at 8pm for tea and then back to the room for the next match at 9pm (cet). The beer was flowing nicely. After speaking to the hotel receptionist ( a large man with a beard and miss Marple glasses ) he advised us not to go to Berlin but to go to Krakow and Oswiecim. We weren't sure what was so special about Oswiecim until someone else said we would know it better as Aushwitz the german death camp.That was an oppertunity we could not pass up as we were so close (200km away). Directions sorted and off we went. The sun was shinning and apart from one little mix-up with the road signs again, no real problems and we arrived at Krakow at 3pm. We found a hotel and booked in, not a bad hotel but we'd been in better and cheaper. After a quick shower we walked into town, a very nice, clean little town. The streets were narrow and the buildings high and we find a kebab shop and have something to eat ( makes a change from bloody Mc Donalds ). We meander back to the hotel and watch football. 6am and the phone rings - we'd booked an alarm call ( That time already ). We got up early as we planned to visit Aushwitz and hopefully Kutna Hora ( a weird church in the Czech Republic made out of human bones). We had breakfast and set off at 8am and quickly found ourselves out of the city and on our way to Katowice. Paul said he was quite apprehensive about Aushwitz. I mentioned to Paul that alot of the buildings were still there, so Aushwitz here we come !!. At Aushwitz we got talking to 3 lancashire lads who had "popped" across for the weekend on their bikes. Once insite the camp, we were both shocked and stunned at the horrors which took place in that god forsaken place. There's buildings full of item's from when it was in use - human hair for making cloth out of, shoe's , tins, glasses - all manner of things. You wouldn't believe it, unless you saw it, nothing was wasted at all. NOTHING. A very sombre place where the birds do not sing, just a deathly silence. We left Aushwitz feeling quite sad and deep in thought, neither of us talking on the intercom's for at least an hour. We headed west for Prague, the time 1pm (lunchtime), Germany maybe too far. The border poses no problem and I see a sign for Kutna Hora and we decide not to travel as far as Prague and to find a hotel/motel on the roadside. The first one we find is apparently full ( bugger ) so on we go only to find Police diverting traffic so we don't find another hotel till 7pm. From the outside it looks impressive - a 2 storey building, pink in colour with a long driveway. Inside its basic but clean and tidy and costs 30 euro's (£20 ). We have dinner, beer, then more beer and watch the football.

After the long ride, we don't get up till 11am. We do some filming on the balcony of our hotel room. We decide to change some dollars and then go sightseeing. Red square, Kremlin, lenin's tomb and of course Mc Donalds....... really - Mc Donalds next to the Kremlin... unbelievable!!. We wanted to go and see Lenin, however he's only open from 10am till 1pm. We find this out at..... you guessed it.......2pm - typical. Still we take photo's and some film footage. Brilliant, we still can't believe we're in Moscow. Had a look at the souveniers, the usual Russian dolls , hats full of old soviet military badges, paper weights engraved with the Kremlin on and even hip flasks with emblems on. As we walked around there seems to be a lot of English speaking people here. As we over hear people talking we turn around in amazment, it's nice to hear people speak English again after only hearing and speaking Russian. With the sightseeing done we head back to the hotel as it's 6pm and we are meeting Andrey at 8pm. We stop at a roadside souvenier shop and buy presents for Pauls wife helen and our mother, small gifts but with a big thank you behind them. Once back at the hotel, we quickly shower and are outside the hotel for 8pm. Andrey arrives at 8:20pm and immediatly apologises. We're just glad he turns up. He takes us to an Irish pub - thats right - an Irish pub and we meet 2 more outlaws ( little vitalie and big vitalie ). Big vitalie was a helicopter pilot in the Russian army 10 years ago but spoke better English than Andrey. Little vitalie spoke very good English because his father worked for the U.N as a specialist on diesel engines so has travelled the world with his parents. We leave the Irish pub and go on a quick drive to another bar. On the way, Andrey is stopped by the Police for speeding. To our amazment he pulls out his wallet, shows the Police something and they wave him on??. We find out that Andrey is anti - terrorist Police, to our amazment. We end up in a bar called " Che Guevare" - a fantastic little place. Andrey orders a jug of ice, a jug of coke , a plate of limes (quatered), a plate of mint and a bottle of 7 year old rum!!, and proceeds to make a rum and coke for us all. The drink is flowing and we really are enjoying the company of our Russian friends. After a couple more bottles of rum and more ice have been ordered and consumed, big vitalie say's goodbye and wishes us well. Andrey then takes us to another club where he tells us that many western Europeans tend to meet. He also tells us that you can have any women in there,and of course - they're all inclusive as well. We decline again and Andrey takes us back to our hotel. We can't thank the big man enough and are sorry to see him go. RUSSIA - The people are fantastic and so friendly. We leave the next morning with heavy hearts. Russia has been a fantastic experience, the people , the culture , the hospitality, has been mind-blowing. We will both miss these most generous and friendly people. Andrey had shown us on our map the road we need, and we suprise ourselves at how easy we manage to get on the right road for Belarus and its capitol - Minsk. Andrey had also said the road was good.... and it was. The weather was overcast and quite chilly. The rain doesn't last long but threatens all day. At the border and it looks like we could be there for hours!!. The line of trucks waiting to cross seems to go on forever. We showed our passports to the guard and he talked to us about our trip ( in broken English of course ). He pointed to where we needed to go with our passports and told us to park the bikes out of the way. The queue of waiting lorry drivers look fed up, especially as the guard took us to the front of the queue. Paper work done and we are on our way in only 1 hour ( quick for a border ). Minsk wasn't that far from the border and we were hopeing for an early night. We ask directions for hotel Minsk ( there's always a hotel with the name of the town ). We find the hotel quite quickly only to be told... no reservation - no room. Here we go again!!. We make a reservation for the following night and ask the hotels guest relations officer to help us find a room. Shock, horror - none going, all are full because of a convention going on in the town ( f**k). He manages to find us a flat for rent outside Minsk for $200. Its expensive but we are desperate. The flat itself was good - sauna, plunge pool, pool table, 3 bedrooms, secure parking and meals included - we'll take it !!. After a strange breakfast of sausage wrapped in pancakes, the young woman who prepared the food asked if she could have a ride on the back of one of the bikes. We agree and take the camping gear off my bike and Paul takes her for a spin while I finish getting our stuff together. Once back, her boyfriend or brother ( we're not sure which) gestured for us to follow him to Minsk which we accepted. Back in Minsk outside the hotel, we waved goodbye to our escourt and check in. Booked in, we quickly shower and take a walk down Minsks main street talking photo's and film footage. We stop and have something to eat. Where you may ask?? - Mc Donalds again. You can tell we are getting to more westernized cities, Minsk is clean and well presented with no graffiti or litter to be seen. With the filming done, we head back to the hotel and see an oriental restaurant and decide to eat there later. The restaurant is very nice but there's a problem - no cutlery only chopsticks - and we ordered rice dishes !!. It will take us weeks to eat. We manage to eat ok but seems there's a lot of pushing rice around aswell ( there's no fun to be had pushing rice round dishes ). Meal eaten we remark on the table next to us eating sushi, which we both say we wouldn't eat ( reminds us of the salmon in Ishim) and go back to the hotel for a few beers, only for some strange old bloke to come over and stat chatting ( he makes paul feel uneasy ). We make our apologies and retire to our room. Hotel Minsk was a 4* hotel and we enjoyed the night there. We pack the bikes and check the oil. Both bikes have used oil on the trip, so we top them up. We remember seeing a sign for Brest and take the road out of the city. As usual - there's no more signs for Brest and have to rely on my gps. We are heading in the right direction but are unsure, we stop when we see a Policeman and ask for directions. He assures us we are going the right way and 5km down the road we spot our first sign since leaving Minsk. We are quickly up to speed and it doesn't take long to reach the border were things start to go pear shaped. We are ushered to the front of the queue and get involved with all the beaurocracy. A guard ( who spoke little English )tells us to take our passports to one place and then another. No one seems to want to help and we stand around looking like fish out of water. 2 hours later and all the faffing is over and we tentatively drive on and into Poland. We spot 2 Policemen at the side of the road who gesture for us to rev the bikes and speed across the border........fantastic. We head for Warsaw and are 12 miles from the city when Paul spots a sign for a hotel, situated behind a petrol station and - you guessed it again - Mc Donalds ( Ronald's got a lot to answer for ) and decide to stay there. The hotel is comfortable and clean and costs us £50 for 2 nights with secure parking - happy days. Tomorrow sightseeing in Warsaw.

Alarm call goes off but I am awake already - no change there then !!. Breakfast was probably the best we've had, although very similar to all the others. We are now set into a routine, I get two juice ( one each) while Mark gets his breakfast and gets two tea's while I get my breakfast, two helpings this morning. Every where we go, each hotel, the bikes cause men,women and children to stop and stare. Men talk about them in groups of two/three. We leave the hotel with a map and directions off the receptionist, but we don't use them as we pick up some road signs ( there's a lack of these in most cities) and are on the road and out of the city in 30mins. We're up to speed 65/70mph - Moscow or bust. However with the police check points ever 5/10 km or uneven roads its not long before we have to slow down. Still weather gorgeous, really hot so we have to leave our jackets open!! The sun stays out till9.30pm, which is good as we don't get to Moscow till 10.00pm. We hope we've picked up an hour but no luck. We stop and I go to try and get directions for a hotel, Mark gets chatting to an Austrian guy who's been in Russia for 5 years but say's he wants to leave. As we are getting directions a Toyota land cruiser pulls up and a big rotuned guy with glasses get's out and say's "he's a biker"(Bmw Lt 1200)and a member of the outlaws motorcycle club. Andrey is his name. He rings round and gets us a hotel in the city centre for 4500 roubles for two nights( cheap in Moscow) normal price 7000 for one night. He then gestures for us to follow and before we go tells us to keep following and don't worry about the police.......(gulp what have we got our selves into again). We arrive at the hotel, from the outside a shabby, run down looking place. The inside confirmed it, but as long as its warm,dry and clean with hot water we don't care. Andrey then proceeds to give me a outlaws t-shirt, with I obviously accept (size XXL). We sort the room out with Andrey's help and he show's us were to park the bikes. Bikes parked, Andrey pays the guard and tells us not to worry( this guys great). He also leaves us some drink and asks us if we would like a girl for the night(2000 roubles all inclusive as Andrey said). We decline but offer to take Andrey for a drink tomorrow. Andrey accepts and we depart to our room. A big place, it's bigger then Oleg's place in Novosibersk. Landed on our feet again and only 500meters away from the Kremlin. How goods that, sight seeing tomorrow, YIPEEEEEEEEEEEE. Mark and Paul

We have our usual breakfast - cheese ,tomato, omlette with black tea and juice. Its a Russian thing, salad for breakfast. We are not big fans of salad but we are getting used to it now !!. The sun is shinning and the roads are good but its still a big ask to get to Moscow - which is still 1000 miles away ( bugger ). We rode all day and arrived in a town called Perm. Moscow will have to wait a little longer. I feel ten times better after my little poorly spell and tomorrow we should be in Moscow and 2 days off to recharge our batteries and see the sights this beautiful city has on offer. Moscow is becoming more and more elusive as we are still 450 miles away and stop in a town called Kazan. As with all of the bigger cities, there are a lot of advertisment boards leading you in to the city. As you ride in you start to see blocks of flats 5 - 6 storeys high but in a poor state of repair, which is a shame as they could look very smart with only a lick of paint. I think Russians probably do not trouble themselves with what the outside looks like as long as the inside is comfortable. Back to our adventure - We ride into the city looking for a hotel, Mark ask's for directions ( he's good at that ) and we get a 3 star hotel - which is nice. We end up eating at a Russian themed restaurant and had lovely meal. It was beef and marks favourite - CHIPS. WE walked back to the hotel which was only 100 metres away and had an earlyish night ( for us anyway ) 11:30pm. Tomorrow - MOSCOW - definately. we'll get there even if we have to " drive all night " as the song say's HaHa . Thought of the day " stay happy".

we booked into hotel Slavyanka for two days as I was unwell (de-hydration we think) and spent the second day, Mark washing the wind screens and head light protectors myself taking off the helmet visors and protection systems and washing those. We also wanted to change some dollars and ask the hotel receptionist who rang round and found some where open (the time was 6.30pm). We got directions and a small map from her, here goes a mini adventure in this big adventure. We head up the street trying not to look to much like tourist's but fail miserably!! We walk up the street looking for a toy shop which has an exchange inside. Distance on the map compared to actual distance on the street is unrecognisable, and after a couple of false starts we find the place and change our money ( which by the way, Paul's collecting a coin from each country visited for his son,Alex). At the hotel we try the restuarant and a thin looking waiter called Denis ask's if we would give him a ride on a bike, we agree and also tell him we would take a polaroid photo for him to keep. With that sorted, we sit down to a fantastic meal. Breakfast done and we're at the bike's packing our kit with no sign of Denis. "If he does'nt show we're not waiting" I say but Denis turns up 5 mins later. I take his picture and we move the bike's from the secure parking,Denis on the back holding on for life I speed off around the block with Paul videoing. Outside the hotel I wait for Paul to arrive, a quick goodbye and we set off for Yoa (say Ufa). The signs start off good but soon run out and we head for Eketeringburg hopeing that's correct. It's not but we can still head this way, It's a longer route but meets up with our original route. We end the day at a place called Perm, again a stroke of luck a biker and his girlfriend takes us to a 3* hotel called Tourist, this will do us. We'll up date again when we can, hope its good and interesting reading for you all. Mark and Paul

Back at Barnaul and Hotel Siberia we book in for 2 days and take time to wash our kit and catch up on sleep. We don't go to the bike bar as we don't want to outstay our welcome and have a quiet meal in a chinese resturant. I speak to the receptionist ( Irina, Whose very foxy ) and she informs me that Ewan Mc Gregor stayed in the hotel in a single standard room and she has photo's of him at the hotel. We parked our bike's in the same spot as he did...whoopee do. In the morning Mark video's her with the photo's( by the way Russian women are very beautiful, well most). We leave Barnaul and hotel Siberia with a heavy heart and head north to Novo Sibersk again, to the tyre's we hope!! The ride was un-eventfull as we took it steady with my dodgy tyre, and arrive about dinner time. We manage to find the bike shop on our own( good eh) and meet Andri who informs us that............. the tyre's were here, hooray for that. The wheels taken off oan a young lad arrives with 4 knobberly tyre's ( those arn't the one's) how ever we need tyre's and go with it, hopefully they will get us home? Once again we meet up with Oleg and he kindly let's us stay at his flat( nice man). So after a quick shower we go to the "Old Irish Bar" and treat him to his tea. We have a pleasent evening and Andri turns up as well....excellent, top top lads. In the morning we wake fairly early and at 09.30am go to the supermarket which as we found out does'nt open till 10.00am.....unlucky. I purchase a pipe after seeing Oleg smoke one, and buy him a pack of tobacco as a thank you. Back at the bike shop we pick up the bike's, Andri kindly drive's us to the road to Omsk. We say our good-bye's and ride off to what turn's out to be another long day in the saddle. Although the sun is shining the wind on the bike is apparent, we stop for petrol(benzin in Russia you know) and adjust our kit. Back on the move and we're getting back into the swing of riding the bike's for a long time. I spot a roadside cafe and have a bowl of soup and cup of black tea. The bike's are running good ( a credit to Astle's of Grimsby, Nigel,Sarah,Richard and Chris....thanks) The sun is still shinning at 7.30pm in fact it's the best part of the day. We decide to stop at the next hotel we find, and it's not long before we spot one. We are only 20 miles from Omsk. After a look around the hotel ( it's basically a truck stop hotel) we decide to push on the 20 mile's to Omsk as we only have a small amount of roubles left. Riding into Omsk we bump into ( not litterally Ozmeister) a local biker and his girlfriend on a Suzuki bandit 1200. After a quick chat, he agree's to take us to a hotel, where we stay the night. We leave Omsk with the weather good and the sun shinning in our face's. A slight problem getting onto the correct road out of the city as with all big cities when your a stranger, however we manage and crack on. I pull over and tell Paul that my gps is showing that we are heading to the Kazak border. We look at the map and confirm that the road we are on enter's Kazakhstan for 40 miles......bugger we didn't realise that. We decide to try and blag our way in on our visa........ a resounding no. F##k, we are told to back track and take a lesser road to Ishim, the road is bad in place's and some of it is being relayed........ more off road riding thank god we got the knobberlies. We eventually get to Ishim, were we stumble across or get lucky and meet a young man called Stan( Stan the man) in a white lada estate. As we talk he mention's Mick and Sue Wheeler (who did a similar trip last year) and takes us to the only hotel in Ishim. The hotel is 2 star at best and expensive compared to other hotels we have stayed at. All we can hope for is clean bedding and hot water, which it has. Stan explain's we can leave our bike's at his garage as they could be stolen, he takes us on a 1 kilometer ride to what looks at first sight as a scrap yard.....this could be dodgeville. Although not to sure, we leave the bike's and Stan drive's us back to the hotel and we agree to meet him later for a drink. As he drive's off we then meet an Austrian chap called Theo, who is riding a 1994 BMW R100RS. With all the stickers on it he must have ridden around the world twice. We again agree to meet Theo and kill two birds with one stone and meet both of them at 9.30pm. We meet at the required time and Stan takes us all to the top restuarant in town, where Stan pays the bill, top bloke. Stan took us back to the hotel and he said he would return in the morning at 09.00am to take us to the bike's. For breakfast we only had a cup of tea and was outside for 09.00am, good to his word he showed up and took us to the bike's. We said good bye and Paul gave him his BMW motorrad key ring as a thank you present and I took a couple of polearoid picture's of them with the bike's and gave them to them, they seemed to be pleased. Stan then procedes to take us to the road for Chelyabinsk, which he tells us is a good road ( it will be when its finished ha ha ha ). In parts it was but again sections where being repaired or resufaced. All this takes it's toll on Paul who starts shivering on the bike. The weather threatens to rain and in sparrodic periods goes from spitting to torrential rain but only for a short time. I don't know if it's a lack of food, sleep or weather but 100 miles from Chelyabinsk Paul is shivering and acheing all over. We make it to Chelyabinsk but the ride has been Paul's worst ride this trip. We find a nice 4 star hotel and book a room for 2 nights so Paul can get better. Tomorow we ride to Kuybyshev and hopefully regain another hour in time. We didn't really allow for the time difference when we were planning the trip, but the time lost going outward will now be hours gained.

Leaving Bisck we head to our end point for this trip...Mongolia, riding through the Alti region of Russia was fantastic, sooooo beautiful - snow capped mountains on one side and grassy plains on the other. It was simply awe-inspirering and hot to boot, not what we thought Siberia would be like. We keep stopping to record the view ( for our up and coming dvd, for sale at all good car boots ha ha ha ) and take photo's to prove to the doubting Toms that we did it. Riding through mountain passes, the road in place's is being resurfaced but we managed or so we thought, as at the border mark mentions that his tyre ( tyre's again I hear you say) feels flat. On inspection we find out that he is correct.....bugger...and double bugger! An old ural (Russian motorcycle) spoke had punctured his tyre right in the worst place you can get a puncture on a tyre. After a couple of cigarettes and a couple of swear words unprintable we remove the spoke (located right on the side wall were the tyre meets the rim) and take the rear wheel off the bike. As neither of us had any experience of fixing a puncture ( the first one being on the side wall and at the border of Mongolia, it don't get any worst). We do a temperary repair which just isn't good enough, and we do a mamoth 26hr ride from Mongolia to the close'st city. This turn's out to be Bisck, a look at Mark's tyre and it's totally shreded. With temper's fraying and still 60 kilometer's from Bisck we found ourselve's at the side of the road, 06.00am no shops open untill 09.00am the close'st being 15 kilometer's away. At 08.45am I take a ride to the near'st town and try to locate a tyre, in the mean while back with Mark, three young lads turn up with an innertube, patch of rubber and a tube of super glue not forgetting a pump, how lucky's that!! I arrive back at Mark to find the lads are well on the way to fixing the tyre and try to help in a small way while Mark does the filming. 30 mins later and hey were back on the road, heading back to Barnaul. Riding to Barnaul was never ending partly because of Mark's tyre and partly through lack of sleep. We decide to stop at a petrol station for a quick rest-bite only for this oldish gentleman to walk over to us and in broken english ask about the bike's and trip. We must have looked tired as he gestured for us to splash our face's with cloed water. When returning to the bike's another young bloke walked up and asked for our autographs.........our autographs(Ewan Boorman and Charlie McGregor, how crazy's that). So we scrible'd a quick line from Mark and Paul( he must of heard about the forth coming dvd ha ha ha ). We headed to Barnaul our eye's blood shot red through a mixture of tiredness and dust from the road. The wind had picked up and at time's we were riding at 45 degree angle, we drive in through the back road and have no idea where we are in comparison to hotel Siberia. However we ask a local who drive's to the hotel with us in tow, we're back. Having no working mp3 player and having plenty of time on the bike to contemplate thing's, I've come to the conclusion that -A,people all over the world are the same, go to work, try to bring there children up the best they can. B, the less money/ material items they have, the more inclined to help stranger's for no gratification they are. C, not to leave my wife and child for any longer than I have to ( I do get sentimental with all this time on my hand's ha ha ha)

We arrived in Barnaul and went to the bike bar to see if there was any new developments on the tyre situation! We got talking to a young bloke called Andri Anderson who worked in a motorcycle shop and we explained our prediment and he said he may have some our size..... fantastic!! We made plans to meet up the next day at 09.00am and he would take us to his work place in Novo Sibersk. With the tyres hopefully sorted we arranged to meet up at the bike bar later that night and departed back to the hotel (the same one as Ewan Mc stayed at by the way). We were so impressed by the bike bar that we have video'd and taken photo's. What a crazy place, bike's hanging from the ceilling, a fountain made from a bike even an old Russia jeep hangs above the bar!! That night we played pool with Denis, Sanya and Sasha and some how got mixed up with another group of lads who were in a band, they bought a bottle of vodka and a plate of fresh salad which they shared with us toasting everything and anything needless to say we were very very drunk. In the morning we did get up via an alarm call and were waiting outside the hotel for 08.50am and we waited and waited, unfortunately Andri was also waiting ------ outside the bike bar........ bugger!!! We found this out at dinner time when we went to the bike bar and the lads asked why we were not in Novo Sibersk...... bugger no 2!! So we said we would go tomorrow and the president of the bike club said he would show us the correct road to Novo Sibersk. We had a quiet night and gave Denis and Sanya a couple of t-shirts which said on the front " half way round 2006". The next morning we met the club president and set of for an uneventful ride to Novo Sibersk, a bigger city than Barnaul and 250 kilometers away. We were met by Andri and rode to his work place, were guess what... that's right no tyre's, he showed us 2 front knobblies and 1 rear road tyre!! the Dolby curse struck again! After some delibaration we decide to crack on to Mongolia with the tyre's that's on the bike's and Andri said he would order new tyre's and they would arrive in 3/4 days...... have we really sorted the tyre problem out this time, we will only find out on our return, fingers crossed, f**k it every thing crossed. While at the bike shop Andri had phoned his friend Max ( a Richard o'brien look a like....really) Who said he would ride around looking for a hotel for us for the night. After 30 mins Max returned with bad news, no room anywhere, I am starting to feel like somebody up above does'nt want us to finish this trip ha ha ha. However Max rings his friend Oleg who promptly turned up in a big Merc 500 and said we could stay with him in his flat for as long as it takes.....top lads. We left the bikes at the bike shop and went to Oleg's flat which we video'd to show a typical Russia flat. After a quick spruce up Oleg took us to a bar which was called " Old Irish Bar" can you believe that in Siberia. We had a bite to eat and then he mentioned somebody was having a bar-b-que and would we like to go? We couldn't refuse a generous offer and he drove us to a house in the middle of nowhere and we met Mikial and a bunch of bikers. The time now was 10.00pm and although we were enjoying the company we were very tired. Oleg offered to take us back to his flat when we were ready. We left at about 1pm and settled down in our sleeping bags as Oleg only has 1 bedroom. The next morning we awoke to find Olegs model I say again Model girlfriend had arrived much to our suprise. Oleg took us to an Italian restaurant for breakfast, as we didn't know what to order we played safe and got a pizza..... for breakfast. Oleg and his girlfriend then preceeded to have fruit juice and salads which myself and Mark jaws open would have preferred, the joys of not speaking the language. We finally get back to the bike shop (10.30ish) say our good bye's and head back towards Barnual and Mongolia. We didn't quite make Mongolia, in stead we got to Bisck and got a hotel with no hot water but it had two Americans, (they get every where don't they) doing something for a charity. We go for something to eat but once again no english menu (well we are in Siberia) and cyrillic gives you two hopes....... Bob Hope and no hope. Mongolia tomorrow so camping food all the way.

Kazakhstan has to be one of the worst countries we have visited - the roads are rubbish, really rubbish. The people we have met have allways been really helpfull most often than not, and that makes getting around a whole lot easier. Aktobe and Alma-ata where beautiful cities but everywhere there's a hole in the ground - they fill it full of rubbish, normal household refuse and this spoiles the countries. We got the same ferry as Ewan and Charlie and when the ferry touches at the other side your at the border gates waiting to get into the country. We then have a 2 hour wait while every man and his dog has a look at the bikes and ask us where we are from and where are we going !! , and of course filling out customs declarations. Kazakhstan is soooo big we lost 2 days just because of the roads, and had to camp for 2 nights. Even we where wishing we where back in Russia and on good roads. Kazakhstan has been a low point for us but , HEY!!! we're back in Russia. We rode to georgievka only to find that they didn't have a gastinitza (hotel), so we had to go to the next city which was Semipalatinsk which made our total milage for the day 602miles. Exhausting and extreme concentration needed at all times because of the total disregard of any sort of traffic law. We arrived at Semy at 12 midnight and found a hotel, not particullarly nice , 1 star at the very most. Allthough not totally happy, we made do because we where just so tired. After a lie in, we made our way up to Barnaul which is just mad !!!. The Russian women are stunningly beautiful ( you would love it Ozzmiester ). As we drove into the city, 2 young lads on a scooter pulled up an we asked them about a hotel, to which they motioned with their hands for us to follow- which we did and here we are in Barnaul and we have most of the bike bar trying to get us some tyres. We have been here now for 4 days and we don't have a definate on the tyres. Hopefully when we see Denis,Alex,Sanya and Sasha they will have good news for us, we'll have to wait and see!!!. This trip so far has given us the best of times and the worst of times. We are still loving it though. Hope to see you ladies in Assen for the moto GP. We will update at the first chance we get but computers are getting like rocking horse s**t. Mark and Paul

After the epic ride to Kiev(20 hrs) we managed to find AWT BMW garage and booked the bikes in for a service with Yuri, there was a problem with getting the correct tyres but said he would try his best. Sunday morning we left the hotel (10ish) and arrived at BMW only to find out that he couldn't get the tyres!! He did though give us the phone no to the area manager who manages eastern europe and told us he would ring him to tell him that we where going to Kazakhstan and would he try to get the tyres there. So we have to ring him when we get there(more info on this when we know). After saying our good-byes to Yuri, we left Kiev later then we wanted alot later 12o'clock noon and headed east to our next destination....Krasnyy luch. As we left the city boundary the sun was shining and continued all day. The road from Kiev to Krasnyy Luch is long and undulating but the bikes have taken everything in there stride as if to say"is that all you've got". The big thumping hum of the bike pushing us foward to Krasnyy Luch trying to get to our next port of call only to get stopped time and again by the police interested in a quick buck or the bikes, either way our progress is slow and again we were just short of our destination and came to a city 60 miles away called Izyum,and stumbled across a small hotel or "guestanitsa" in Russian. It had secure parking and a lookalikee of Dolf Lungeran. Once we got the bikes sorted and had a quick shower we went down to the restaurant where we got chatting to a local who bought us vodka and caviar which was nice. He introduced his girlfriend and we were asked if we would like to see the war monument which was just across the road, we agreed and Uri (I think that was his name) took us there. The monument like all Russian war monuments was impressive, we stayed a while and then went back to the hotel said good night to Uri and went to bed. The next day we went back to the monument and took a few photo's, when riding back to the main road, Mark had a slow speed topple, I helped him pick up he's very heavy bike. A quick check of the bike reveled no damage and off we went hoping to reach the next destination, which was Volgagrad. The rain had started, slow at first but by dinner time it was at full tilt and by the time we reached the border, we both looked like drowned rats. The Ukrainian officals took pity on us and made us both a cup of nescafe. Mark took a few poloroid photo's and handed them out with much amusement, then onto the Russian officals who appeared more serious however the delay was a short 2 hours, just enough time off the bike and out of the rain. The BMW suite's have been fine although Mark did mention he thought he had a wet arse and to be honest I thought I did too. After the border the road beckoned, and off we went trying to make up time and to ride past the rain which was impossible as we kept getting stopped at police check points. As we were both soaking and tired we decided to stop riding at 7pm and found a hotel/cafe. We booked in with a young woman called Luda who spoke very little english but with the help of a small phrase book and hand gestures we managaed to get a twin room. The hotel was small but homely and most impotent clean. We got a meal and a couple of beers and headed for an early night. In the morning we set off early not even having breakfast, trying to catch up the time from the following day, hopefully to get to Astrakhan. The roads in Russia are long and straight and not always in good order but we made good progress with only a few photo stops and police (not the pop group sylvia ha ha) check points. We stopped for a cup of tea at a roadside cafe and replaced the battery in the mp3 players, at which point Mark noticed that one of my foglight brackets had snapped, but lucky for me we had the specialist equipment to repair it - one roll of black masking tape (the biker's friend) after only a couple of minutes job done and we were on our way. We arrived at Astrakhan at 8.30pm and got directions from the ' friendly' police to a very smart and exspensive hotel where we believe ' Ewan Booreman and Charlie Mc Gregor ' stayed (sorry guy's). Tomorrow we head to KAZAKHSTAN!!!

Well we are living a dream and it hasn't disappointed yet !!. The weather has been fantastic and the roads are brilliant, soooo smooth with flowing series of left and right bends one after another which we were taking at 60 - 70. Unfortunatly we managed to get 2 speeding tickets - one in Slovakia and one in the Ukraine. Total cost of the fines was $70. Police have the new and improved radar gun that goes round corners to catch you !!!. We managed to get to Prague on the first day but managed to miss getting to Uzhorod which put us behind , so the next day the ride to Kiev took 20 hours with only a few short stops. It doesn't help when you have to mess around filling paperwork in at the borders - fortunatly ours was up to scratch and we wasn't detained for too long. From the border we travelled up to Kiev via L'viv,the roads started ok to L'viv then they deteriorated and only got better 60 miles from Kiev when they turn into a dual carrige way. The driving needs to be seen to be believed!!!! they will over-take, under-take or simply budge you out of the way at any time they feel, which is usually as soon as possible. Kiev,we're here and quite relieved at that, first thing to do,get to the hotel. Mark sorted that by asking at a petrol station, a few hand movments and shake of the shoulders (and of course bought a map) we we're off. We got close then asked a taxi driver who took us there. the next day (5th may) we went to AWT BMW in Kiev city center and are at present getting a service but possibly no tyre's(oh no)!! more news on this later. Having a great time, I am feeling (as Ewan Mcgregor would say) family sick but try to call/write as much as I can. Will up date again as soon as we can. Paul and Mark