Leaving on a jet plane, not sure when we'll be back again

Having spent many a day at Dakar Moto HQ, thought it might be time for a quick update.

As you'll remember from way back when, last year in fact....though only 5 months ago really, Sandra & Javier run a motorcycle repair shop with facilities for traveling bikers to stay.

Though it's out in the suburbs there is an excellent train station nearby and a return ticket costs less than 25p p/p. There is an underground network and it costs little too.

So it's a great place to be based. The accommodation is adjacent to the workshop, bunk beds, a toilet & shower, and kitchen. There's a garden outside (or camping area!) and so long as there is space and time, you have an opportunity to work on your bike, or better still, let Javier do it for you for very reasonable costs. He's worked wonders on a few of our fellow travelers bikes and there are some excellent services available for repairs. Non re-builable shock trashed ? Well that can be taken apart refurbished and reassembled as good as new. Smash a screen, a new one can be made to match. If there's a problem, there's someone who can resolve it. Excellent facility. Fortunately for us we are simply staying here !

Our hosts at Dakar Moto's, Javier & Sandra, and us still able to smile!

We could get somewhere 'downtown', but the ambience here makes it hard to leave. It's hard to describe that ambience really. The place is a workshop frequented by many of their friends, and to a man (and the odd women if we ignore Sandra which of course we never would) they are fantastic friendly people.

ALWAYS here you greet everyone. No matter you never met, no matter you met yesterday, always is a handshake and welcome to everyone. Those of close relationship kiss...that's the men...women are always kissed ! It's a strange thing to plant (or have planted on you) a stubbly peck on the cheek, but it's the way and all quite normal here.

Having been before we know quite a few of the Dakar Motos Social Club, and it's nice to be reacquainted. Our limited Spanish is not a hindrance, just an opportunity for some humour !

By the time lunch comes round there is usually a small group of people and some takeaway is bought in, pizzas, steak sandwiches or similar, and there's some time out for socialising.

It's a hard thing to explain how we have managed to spend so much time here, without actually going into town much. After all, there is much to see in town and we know our way around now. I think it's the fact we sit down and share coffee with Javier and Sandra when they arrive in the workshop, and start chatting. Their company is good and time seems to fly. Nosing around the workshop is easy, and the other travelers staying or calling in are always easy to talk with and share experiences. Before you know it time has disappeared and it hardly seems worth going out. That's why I say Sandra and Javier are like family !

We finally managed to get sorted with the bike shipping. First stage was taking the bike down the road for a clean, our last ride on the continent ! A local place run by a biker is recommended and proved to be very good. For about £3 the old girl came out with no dirt, clean, with only the rust showing up more clearly.

Washing bike for three quid, came up lovely, all rust now clearly visible!

A funny thing happened the other night. We decided to pop downtown, really for the hell of it, but to get a little shopping and a drink. We were sat in a cafe and the television was showing the weather. It indicated there might be rain that night, but nothing dramatic. But one feature of the TV is they always give the capitols weather at the end and show some live pictures of the weather on the main highways around the city. They switched to that and it was absolutely nailing down ! It was very warm, calm and dry where we were. All the people in the place where looking up at the TV, looking outside, at each other and the staff, and back to the TV. It was surreal, like the pictures weren't live. I sharp realised that was weather coming our way and we settled up as fast as possible. By the time we had the wind was blowing wildly outside with leaves and litter flying everywhere and the first drops of rain falling. Fortunately the subway was outside and we dived down and made our subterranean journey in the dry. Only the walk from the rail station to Dakar Motos was wet, lucky !

Actually that wasn't the last ride, as of course we had to get to the airport. We had finally discovered to fly the bike with Lufthansa was by far the best deal, and far less complicated than going through the port for a boat

The preliminary enquires sounded great, and the procedure sounded simple so we decided to go with it. Having had such an easy procedure on entry to the country through the airport, it sounded the best way out too.

Our last ride was upon us !

An early start was required as we needed to get to the cargo area by 9.30. The roads were pretty busy and we had a few errors in route finding.....you'd never expect a sign on the M25 for the airport would you ? Of course you would ! None here until you get to the road off the ring road. We finally got there, only 15 minutes late, so effectively early ;-)

When we turned up at the cargo area at the airport, all we had to enter was our airway bill number, just handwritten on the email from Lufthansa, sufficient to pass security, let us in without question :-0

Security at the 'Deposit' cargo warehouse got a 'wrapper' for us. Preliminary weigh on scales (no pallet) in first building was 286kgs, moved to adjacent packing warehouse with our assistant. He took us through and got us clearance security badges. The bike was then placed on wooden pallet.

We had to carry out certain formalities, petrol has to be drained - they get bored, not necessary to empty, if say near empty, they will accept that, battery has to be disconnected, and tyre pressures reduced, again not sure you need to do tyres, but we did on this occasion. The customs formalities have to be done, one guy, he was friendly, he took our temporary import document. He checks number plate, chassis, motor, cursory check luggage.

Wrapping bike

The bike was strapped with nylon tapes to the wooden pallet and eventually wrapped in cling film, we locked lids to bike, and strapped a large stuff bag with sleeping bags etc on and our jackets were shrink wrapped and strapped to bike under screen on seat. Once completed the wrapper asked for I think 120 pesos (£24) with a receipt, or (definite price) 60 pesos (£12) no receipt, obvious choice as we can't reclaim. Once finished the bike weighed in at 330kgs (including pallet).

Bike Wrapped

We went around corner to Lufthansa office with customs documents and receipt document from wrapping warehouse. They produce a form with details of bike flight etc, the Airway Bill. You complete a vehicle check sheet – what’s on bike, and pallet, and condition of vehicle, signed declaration at end. A Dangerous Goods Certificate is done and signed.

Now we had to pay ! You can ONLY pay cash, either in US Dollars, or local pesos, or combination of two.

After all paperwork was completed we were given a sticker to apply to bike - we had to do it to ensure it was the right bike. After that we had completed everything. We left and handed in our pass.

We kept the petrol removed from bike in a can and took it away with us for Sandra and Javier. No one queried us walking around the cargo area with the petrol, even through the checks, or when we walked to the entrance of airport terminal. :-0 .....really.

We walked away and hoped our pride and joy arrives in UK OK !

An aside. I wondered if the loaders of the planes are as committed to balancing weight as us with the bike. Seen some bikes with the most ridiculous amount of luggage badly placed while here. Wonder if some loaders better than other. Imagine the pilot fighting with the controls all way to UK with a “Bleeding ‘eck Miguel’s been loading again”.

We are definitely “Leaving on a jet plane”, but there is the question “Don’t know when we’ll be back again” See you in the UK !

31st Mar 2006 - Closing the Circle

Tucuman - Santiago del Estero

240 kms

Nipped out from the Petite for our breakfast round the corner in the 'locals' cafe. Great value if not exactly a Full English. At least we're onto decent coffee, and now without the heavy chlorinated water of some of the places. With fresh orange juice (so that means twice as much for me), a couple of croissants - called media lunes (sp) here, which is nicer as 'half moon', and some brown toast with a weird cream and fruit compote all for 8 pesos, about £1.60 for both of us, you can't go wrong.

The hotel was inhabited by some 'characters', and has seen better days, but for £7 a night (the room) it was great compared to some of the crappy places in Chile at four times the price. At least here the room was cleaned and we had new bedding each night....surprisingly not always the case elsewhere. They were very friendly and helpful too, and it saw us past our 'problem' with ease.

Leaving Tucuman it was very grey, and still humid, that’ll explain all the sugar cane growing hereabouts then ! Had been trying to work out where the problem road was (Tartagal), the one on the news we saw collapsing yesterday, and soon enough down the road we found out.

They obviously get a lot of rain here, and they are prepared for it, but this was an event like we had in Hawnby back at home, were the rain was very intense in a small catchment area and it wreaked havoc. Probably not made the news at home, except perhaps hidden in the columns of the serious papers, but its big news here. In fact the main story at moment. Seems like no one was killed, but think over 100 properties lost. The irony is the river is the Rio Seco, the 'dry' river !

We had planned on going to San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca and had set out on the Ruta 38. A few 10s of kms further down we were stopped by the police at a large junction and it was apparent we couldn't continue that way. It may be the problem area was a short way further on, and that we could have rejoined the 38 further on, but we decided to cut our loses and head for Santiago del Estero. Funnily enough the oldest town in Argentina, not that you'd have a clue now of course.

The section of road we had to take across to the Termals del Honda was appalling ! With it being a Friday, in Argentina, it means that if there is going to be a demo, this is the day. We met one ! No idea what for, or the cause - if it was the condition of the road I whole heartedly am with them ! Anyway, the traffic was stopped briefly at a bridge by a crowd laying down their children (nice !). Motos it appeared were allowed through, so we rode cautiously ahead...just as the demo fell apart and we could all come through anyway. The road thereafter was truly grim in section. It's bad when the road consists of patched potholes all uneven, but this one consisted of unpatched potholes and there was little surface between them, a bleedin nightmare.

The journey otherwise was unremarkable, but it looked like we were heading into rain - what was I saying just yesterday ? so waterproofs were put over jackets and trousers just in case (still too warm for liners). Proved a false alarm I'm pleased to say, but only by an hour !

As we felt knackered we pulled straight into The Savoy (this ones only three stars though !) and decided it would do fine, had covered parking, but public so locked bike and took bags to room - not something we've had to do very often on this trip. Easy enough to get safe parking where the tank bag pockets and red stuff bag can be left on, and the bike not locked. Usually a guard or in such a place you couldn’t get it out without someone knowing.

The Savoy has been run down in the past, but is being improved, but in that ugly way that removes most of its character. A room was stretching our budget now, as up to a whopping £13. We were tired enough to have an hour’s kip on arrival.

It had only been a short day, so we actually spent more time drinking coffee (or something stronger) than we did riding, a nice balance sometimes ! Not long after taking out position in a good window seat and wasting time people watching the weather changed and we were very pleased to be inside as the rain, or heavy drizzle really, was quite unpleasant and the sort of stuff that soaks you before you know it (like the other day on bike in fact)

At this point there were quite a few bikes turning up. Unusual enough in itself, but most of these were 'cruisers' with even the odd Harley which was unusual. We noticed on riding in Argentina previously that there isn't the same fraternity as in Europe (in fact it's like the UK has become in many way !). A noticeable thing is 'cruiser' type riders very very rarely return your waves - I guess maybe weekend warriors ? If I was even off the bike, and saw bikes parked up (even foreign) there is a very good chance I'd have a quick word. Here, even when they know you have a bike, they won't necessarily take you to their bosom. It's very odd. Non bikers take more interest in our bike, than bikers do (maybe they recognise a wreck)

Anyway, our wanders around town trying to locate somewhere to eat brought up a fast food place that was quite alright, but naught else. The place is absolutely over run with clothes shops, and barren of food outlets, quite the opposite of most large towns. There is a split from one side of the square to the other as to a posh, and none posh end. Some are doing well here, others not.

We decided we could do worse than eating in the hotel, and ironically were wrong ! The food was distinctly average (which in Argentina means very poor) and the meat was pathetic. Still, it was cheap.....and so it should have been.

There were one or two bedraggled bikers turning up. Assume a do on, but with weather perhaps decided to forgo the camping.

Saturday 1st April 2006

Santiago del Estero -Cordoba

428 kms

Well the included breakie was crap, as usual, really you're better off going without and buying nearby, but we don't seem to learn !

The papers had a brief bit in about the bikers coming to town (NOoooo...not us) and it looked like they'd come to bring clothes to the people suffering from the floods, but we may have misinterpreted that, and the flood being a coincidence. Anyway, there were a few here, and they would have a display of 'their colourful vehicles' in the plaza later. Thought it unlikely worth staying for and headed on our way.

Leaving town it wasn't long before the roads were getting wet and their was that drizzle about again. All this time with no rain, you mention it, and look what happens ! We donned the waterproofs once again, but it was only a brief section really. The strange thing was it was welcome to have the cags on as it was cool......only 25 degs...your heart bleed for us !

The roads were much nicer once beyond the wet - I never trust these surfaces as they look greasy as hell in the dry - Never mind the wet !

At least though a fairly direct route across the Pampas, and therefore blistering in the summer heat (as it was when we were last in this area all that time ago in November) it was much more enjoyable in these more temperate times.

Scrub Pampas on way to Cordoba

The scenery wasn't outstanding, but was variable enough to not get boring. Initially lush green sugar cane country, that gave was to the more classic Pampas aridity with thorn trees and scrub. For all the world like the Serengeti, even down to the rocky hillocks like the Kopjes there. The one major difference was cacti. Huge cacti, either massive candelabra types or Prickly Pear types that had trunks on them you wouldn't believe, the thickness of mature trees. This is estancia country and there were several hamlets along the road. Nowadays they must be slightly less isolated with modern vehicles and buses, but 100 or more years ago it must have been a different story.

Stopping for lunch we had a buffet style meal at an ACA (?) petrol station. They're run by the Argentinean equivalent of our AA and offer reasonable food at an excellent price. We were stuffed for six quid even including a sweet, drinks and coffees. Not bad.

The road took in a few low hills giving distance views to reinforce the huge scale of this landscape before suddenly becoming far more arable and we were into the area of huge fields of corn and the like and towns full of heavy agricultural machinery.

Silhouettes on the last corn before harvest

We had another return today, Tarantulas ! You'd occasionally see them crossing the road and we had to stop for a photo of one. This was only a small one, it would fit in your hand if you cut your fingers and thumbs off, so just a small one ! Was quite defensive though, and I reconsidered the option of picking it up (with gloves etc on of course) after it stuck the pose of body up and legs outstretched in the air. Sure these blighters aren't dangerous at all, but we were warned both here and in Chile of spiders people said were deadly. Not sure on that one as not heard it anywhere else - but anyway they were much smaller ones, not Tarantulas. I'll be happy to return somewhere were there is no possibility of finding one of these in the garden though thanks !

Our last Tarantula?

The final ride into Cordoba was unexceptional, but the distances you can cover with ease on these roads is quite something. In the heat of our last time hereabouts it was demanding, so hot, and combined with strong head or side winds. So much more pleasant in this temperature and the generally calm conditions.

Cordoba was the nearest place way back then that I could get my digital SLR cleaned, and we ended up down at ville de Belgrano for 10 days. We only visited Cordoba to drop off the camera, and pick it up again, but we remember just how steamy it was then. It's Argentina's second city at about 1.2million people so not somewhere we particularly wanted to linger. There was a hotel shown on the BA side of town, but when we tried it was full. There were plenty of others nearby so we took the first one that was reasonable and had secure parking.

What a contrast this place is compared to last night. Here you can't move for eateries, in the main confiteria's which offer a large range of cakes, fine by us !

It is very strange that we have now virtually 'closed' the circle. Once in BA we will be back right were we started. We visited San Ped again, but generally everywhere we have been, has been for the first time.

With hindsight perhaps we would have planned open ended tickets and returned from somewhere else, such as Ecuador or Peru, but we have a crate in BA, and return tickets from there. Hard to believe probably only a fortnight ago we were in Peru doing our mad bit of the Gringo Trail. We didn't want to rush round that bit, but the choice was that, or nothing, and it was well worth it. Returning to BA it will be great to see Sandra and Javier again and BA is somewhere we could easily spend a few days without boredom.

It isn't over yet, we have about two weeks left, but once in BA we are unlikely to use the bike to travel again. We want to sort the return shipping out, and that's the priority. There is a lot to be said for not taking a bike home and returning to continue travels, the cost of returning being high, but to leave it you are relying on someone’s hospitality which we don't think is fair (there are a few bikes we've seen like this where the people have yet to return...if they ever do).

We hope we will have enough leeway that we can perhaps organise a little adventure form BA without the bike. There are a few options to go places by overnight bus, or plane. Something we will investigate once we get there.

Sunday 2nd April 2006

Córdoba - San Antonio de Areco

500 odd kms

Well, true to form, since our return to Argentina everything continues to go pear shaped. This time only the small matter of the weather. it was lashing down drizzle - I know that sounds wrong, but you know what I mean. Not rain, but soaking stuff.

We left sans breakkie to find it at one of those hospitable YPF stations. It was miserable weather with the roads wet and slimy and we were grateful to stop for a coffee fairly soon after starting.

We discovered two characters from the Fast Show enjoying a miserable Sunday morning watching the Gran Prix on the TV in the petrol station. For some reason they assumed we were Italian (that's a new twist...are we that stylish ?) and as usual, they were quite in awe of our travels. I guess we too will be in two weeks :-(

We struggled on out of town without the waterproofs, but had to give up and cover up as soon as on motorway as the spray was drenching.....in fact we'd left it too late, and were damp in all the wrong places for quite a while.

It was a day of dull riding, at least the first one for a long time. Little of interest, the only times being when we were on single carriageway sections and overtaking was required.

One point of interest was not long after leaving Cordoba when passing through a small town. There are signs all over Argentina, but mainly in the NE for some reason, along the lines of the Malvina's is Argentina. There are also numerous museums regarding the conflict throughout the country, based I guess on gaining some popularity for the government of the time. One such museum was in this quite small town. The relevance was it was the 24 anniversary of the Argentine invasion and there was a huge parade and stuff going on.

If all this had taken place with Peru, I think we would have felt a little concerned at riding through, but Argentineans are considerably more broad-minded, laid-back, call it what you like and we didn't think we were likely to be lynched. It would have been interesting to have stopped, but we had a long way ahead and the weather wasn't promising for the journey. They had a couple of planes on display, and a section of the prow of a boat and were doing the full speeches and parade thing. I doubt you'd find many people in the UK that would remember the date, let alone know it was 24 years ago, so it was surprise to find it being acknowledged here. Anyway we passed with no threat or inconvenience as has been the case for the whole of the trip. You might expect some resentment, but not a thing of it, all put down to governments and not individuals.

The one thing to note is the suicidal tendencies of the Argentinean drivers. Love the country, love the people, don't love the intensely dangerous driving. Why anyone should think they can overtake us and not cross the white line fully when the opposite direction is clear I just don't know....it must be a machismo thing....or plain stupidity. It’s the speed of the driving here that makes everything so bloody dangerous. In Bolivia or Peru you come across occasional suicidal tendencies, but the speed difference is limited. Here, it is considerable, and that makes it all the more dangerous.

Our favourite (not) manoeuvre today was the truck coming straight towards us overtaking another. It was - as all were - a dead straight pampas road and he must have seen us as he edged out as I put the lights on full beam, but he just kept coming. I guess he had the arrogant attitude of "it's a bike, they'll get off the road and I can continue" Thank god there was a hard strip at that point is all I can say. Bloody dangerous stuff.

We were aiming for San Antonio as very near BA and so a short ride to Dakar Motos from there. It was also heralded as a historic old place and a centre for the estancias thereabouts and had a Gaucho museum. If we stopped two nights we would have time to see around - that was the plan.

We got into town quite a bit before dark and stopped in a place that could have been better, but once in you can't be bothered moving for one other night. Had the traditional great feed that evening.

Monday 3rd April 2006

San Antonio de Areco

0 kms

A day of sightseeing. The Museum of the Gaucho was actually a museum to a poet who wrote a well known (but not to us I'm afraid) book on them and was a little disappointing.....well OK it wasn't much cop at all. There were one or two things of interest in the town building wise, but not really enough to warrant a visit from our point of view.

The thing that was of interest here, for all the wrong reasons, was the bl**dy dogs !

Now we have been some places on this trip where dogs have been aplenty, and at night a real nuisance. It's hard to explain to anyone that hasn't heard the sound of persistent dog barking through the night (and NOTHING in the UK compares whatever you might think). Dogs are a total pain in most towns - ironically less of a problem in Bolivia and Peru where you'd think they would be at their worst. In India and other similar places it's the same, the dogs sleep all day on the streets and then come to life at night and bark through the small hours. Its one of the least attractive elements of travel, having so much interrupted sleep.

This town has probably the worse dog problem we've come across. Down near the river is a park were the street dogs congregate and hang out and make the absolute biggest racket you can imagine. This morning was the worst we have heard anywhere in the world, and in a country like Argentina, there is absolutely no reason for it. They could pound the dogs, neuter then on mass, but instead, they acknowledge the problem and do nothing.

Now post the drink driving incident and the use of violence then, you will probably think the following is a further worsening of my condition, but in all honesty,. I would take a gun to these dogs if only someone would give me the bullets (or the gun). There is no room for anything other than a harsh solution to the problem (By the way, I'd neuter the original owners too !) Walking around to town these muts start tailing you and I'm afraid after our appalling nights kip due to them they got the side of my foot to encourage them to go back whence they belonged. Over 50% of British readers are tutt tutting and reading no further !

Wasted the rest of the day bumming about (in rain, typical, it's following us)

Tuesday 4th April 2006

San Antonio de Areco - Buenos Aires

120 odd kms

What on earth is going on ? At some godforsaken hour this morning one hell of a storm broke with thunder (no lightening) and the most persistent rain we've witnessed in years, and it continued right though till mid-morning. We actually thought we would get soaked, but after breakfast the skies cleared and it was roasting hot, and all that water created the worst of humidity, not ideal motorcycling conditions.

The news was covering the weather as a cyclone, and a new word for us, and easy to remember was orribles. As in Spanish the 'h' is silent you can see what the word is, and refered to the conditions exactly

In many many ways today was a very sad day indeed. The closing of our circle. The return to where we started from. The end of the trip with the bike.

5 months ago to the day we left Sandra and Javier at Dakar Motos in Buenos Aires to start our trip and adventure.

At least we had the great advantage of returning to their welcoming arms, that is the only bonus at this point in the trip.

We made it to BA in no time and were soon jostling with the crazy high speed drivers and their psychotic ways. We actually found Dakar Motos relatively easily and were welcomed by Sandra and Javier.

All that is said of Sandra and Javier is true, or possibly understated. It may sound saccharine laden or sycophantic but in all honesty is all true.

There are probably no better people to spend time with at this section of the trip, and they are one of our few props on sanity now the riding is ended, anywhere else I think we'd probably have just burst into tears.

Back at Dakar Motos, at least the trip ends with friends!

So, from here what ?

We obviously have to arrange shipping the bike back, but strictly speaking we have a fortnight until we have to fly ourselves. We could take a trip with the bike to say Uruguay, of south or west from BA, but having arrived with the bike in one piece I think we'd like to let her rest here. We could take a trip somewhere, but so far the favoured options, Galapagos, Easter Island etc are looking very expensive indeed. We could fly to Rio or anywhere for a week, but that's a decision we have yet to make.

I guess we will do a summary of the kit and things we've learnt but the mails from on the road are at a very very sad end. It is over so far as the riding goes now.......bummer

What an adventure though, what an opportunity, and what a fantastic way to fill it. I'm sure nothing much could have been bettered, and there's hardly anything we'd change. The time has been the only limiting factor, six months was too short....no really!

The bike is parked, the helmets stowed.

30th Mar 2006 - Tucuman

0 kms

After a quick breakfast round the corner we set about taking the panniers off so we could get to the sub-frame, only takes 35 minutes even with them full, so not a bad length of time for 'fixed' panniers should you want to remove them for off roading etc (we never get the choice on this trip).

Stripping down the bike to get the sub-frame off for welding

We were wondering when the break actually happened, and I think it stems back to July 2004 when we were rear-ended by a fellow GS Club member on our way home. That caused the right hand original pannier and frames to be wrecked, and for part of the bracing on the back of the sub-frame to tear. Quite conceivable that that impact also weakened the web at the front.
No two ways about it though, the damage was caused by the excessively bad roads we've encountered. We are carrying a lot of weight with being two up and luggage for two, so the sub-frame has really loaded off road. The earlier g/s models had a weak sub-frame, but the later ones like ours, certainly don't. It's the only explanation we can find anyway.

As the city takes its siesta seriously we weren't hopeful of getting anything done fast, but turning up at Torneria Mechanica de Ernesto Hamada, Suipacha 282, San Miguel de Tucuman we were pleasantly surprised. The owner is of Japanese descent, whether that makes any difference, but we had half an hour until siesta o'clock, but no problems stripping the bike for the work.

The sub frame came off reasonably easily, just one minor bolt snapped, and one of the sub-frame mounting bolts sheared too. In the right place for replacements !

With the wiring tucked away there was plenty of easy access for welding and the down spar being completely separated means it can be strengthened with a bar through the tubing as well as welding up.

I noticed the silencer had a crack and is blowing slightly there so they will patch that small bit up too. Couldn't resist starting bike with silencer off, wow, wonderful, like a big block Chevy. With the sub-frame off it looks a wonderful basis for a nice street fighter / chop !

BM R100GS low rider, do you know I like the look! Check out that cool ´stacker´exhaust. Mi Gusto mucho! (and the SOUND!)

By coincidence they are 'especialidad in soldura de aluminio' too, but we'll leave the box repairs for now, should hold out. They have fractures right along the welds where they were repaired previously.

DIY assemble yourself sub-frame kit !

We can return at 5 to collect which sounds excellent, the owner’s son drove us back and we're close enough to be able to walk easily. If all done, we should get bike back together in daylight which would be good.

Couldn't resist starting bike with silencer off, wow, wonderful, like a big block Chevy. With the sub-frame off it looks a wonderful basis for a nice street fighter / chop !

Well on returning at 5 it wasn’t exactly done, but it was then ! Not the finest artisan job, but fit for purpose and with a bit of welding on the silencer where there were (you guessed) some fatigue cracks, and the welding up of the sub-frame it was all of 40 Arg peso´s, or under eight quid. Can’t argue at that. Mind that’s what I thought with the pannier repairs, and they cracked back along the welds, so let’s hope that doesn’t happen with this.

Think the bike will need some tender love and care when we get home after this trip !

So, all in all a good days work, getting it all sorted in an afternoon is a result after all, ready to head off tomorrow, South some more, perhaps part of the way to Cordoba, seen some hills on the way that look an interesting route.

28th Mar 2006 - Cafayate

0 kms

A rest day then a cracking (!) ride

Wednesday 29th March 2006

Cafayate - Tucuman

252 kms

Having had such a restful day yesterday we didn't undertake the ride south to the ruins at Quilmes deciding to take them in on the route today.

The ruins de Quilmes, held out against Inca's then Spanish, finally over-run and marched off to near Buenos Aires, naming the beer that comes from there !

General view, large site, 3000 inhabitants at height (mid 1500s)

The ride out of Cafayate was pleasant taking us past many of the vineyards, or in truth Fincas (smaller than actual vineyards) that we recognised from vine bottle labels during our stay. You have to say it's a joy to be able to order wine with your meal without being ripped off price wise. Many establishments had their own house wines provided by the local growers. There was a local specialty that we tried last night, the white Torreontés that was a strangely sharp fruity number.

Once past the rows of wine it was once more to an arid sun parched valley before the climb of the Infiemillo Pass (3040m). Anything under 4000m seems insignificant these days, but this would class as quite high in the Alps.

The road was rough, a patchwork of potholes until well over the far side. This meant any sweeping curves were not for enjoyment as too many unpleasant surprises. At the top there were more hawks, falcons and raptors than we've seen for an age, perhaps due to the obvious thermal qualities of the weather on the other side of the hills.

The looming mist at Tafi de Vallee

We were intending stopping at Tafi del Valle, but seeing as it was so close we thought to continue a way. Tafi is a strange place, being high up and looking very German like in places, looked like it belonged more in Chile. The other strange feature is the far side of the valley is evidently normally shrouded - as now - in cloud surging up from the far side. Quite an eerier perspective, and an obvious sign of different weather over there.

Once again we had thought the far side was arid and dry as Tucuman, like Salta, has a reputation for extreme summer heat. We are frankly baffled by what season we are in. If winter is July / August then I guess January February is high summer, meaning we must be now in Autumn, or early Autumn, but different areas have different weather patterns, so not sure. Anyway, we seem to be out of the very hottest season so that's good. It turns out Tucuman is not arid at all, but very lush and humid.

As we disappeared into the cloud we discovered it was damp and really mist. Boy what a surprise you can get traveling around this continent. It was quite dense, and correspondingly damp. We guessed we would pass through it on the far descent and so didn't put on our cags or over trousers (not wearing liners as 35 degs earlier). This was to be an error !

As we continued down through various think mist and accompanying wet we were soon getting quite damp and cool. In fact the mist never left us all the way down, and only thinned on the way to Tucuman itself.

The pass was dense with vegetation and quite jungle like in a temperate way, not at all what we were expecting after being amongst cacti only half an hour before

The water had penetrated the still open vents on the jacket and was slowly being mopped up by my T shirt, even the heated grips went on.

The mist being so damp it was a pain riding and seeing, but the occasional views over the edge of the narrow twisting road showed lush vegetation and a fast flowing boulder strewn river far below. There were plenty of signs of erosion and wash out as this side definitely got some hellish weather just a few days ago which we had seen on TV in a petrol station a couple of days ago. Even had whole sections or road and a bridge taken out. Not on our route at moment though luckily.

Near the bottom we rounded a corner to the sign 'Fin del Mundo', and there was certainly no sign of a continuation. Of course the road did, but interesting that there are two such signs in Argentina, the other being Ushuaia.

The second 'end of the world' of the trip, the other being the real one at Ushuaia

Shortly we were down, but the drizzle was still with us and as we set off for Tucuman it only really let up 25kms from the city, by which time I was fair cool (Bev has the advantage of sitting in the rain shadow !)

Arriving in town (well city) was not brilliant as the outskirts were very untypical of Argentina and more like Chile or Peru with rubbish strewn everywhere and some distinctly rough looking areas.

The traffic before we had got there had become it's usual psychotic and quite dangerous. Anything to gain and extra 3m, even if it takes minutes to overtake with oncoming traffic. best advice is ride fast so nothing catches you up !

Entering the chaos of town I like to stay ahead of the opposition too, but unfortunately that lead to riding through a police stop without noticing so I thought it best to play the stupid card again and ride on, fortunately without pursuit.

Getting nearer centre I noticed a hotel and pulled over to find it's location on the SA Handbook city plan so I could get bearings for where we wanted to be. It worked a dream and we found the spot we're in now, which is a bit run down and poor, but only costs £7.

On unloading the bike I noticed the right-hand pannier seemed a bit loose. Checking closer it wasn't the pannier. Didn't look good, I guessed what I'd find. Looking even closer there was a gap where the sub-frame should be attached to a strengthening fillet, and even worse, up above a total break in the sub-frame rail. Oh dear !

Broken sub-frame, frame rail snapped, and fillet separated

Not much chance that would get us to BA with the weight the sub-frame has to carry (us and all the luggage) so needs repairing before we continue. If it led to an equal failure on the other side, basically, the back of the bike would collapse. Not a nice thought.

View from other side, bit clearer the nature of the total failure

We checked with the owner about bike shops of 'Solder' and she suggested somewhere just a block or so away. It turned out not to exist, but we asked in a Ford Motorcraft shop and our faltering Spanish got us at least a recommendation. Apparently a Japanese welder not too far out, that is good and can weld aluminum as well as steel, and so will be our first port of call tomorrow. We’ll see if he can fit us in.

The sub-frame should come off for welding I think without too much of a nightmare, would be better done that way rather than risking frying the electrics or setting fire to the plastic parts or tyre, but we'll see By the time we remove the panniers and mounts and get there it will likely be siesta o'clock anyway.

"Cracking roads Grommet" Well, I did mention how well the bike was holding up in the last mail didn't I ! Now we can see the damage all those untold miles of abuse have done, you'll only see the damage on us when we're in our 70s I hope !

23rd Mar 2006 - San Pedro de Atacama

A return to Argentina, the worst road of the trip, the first spill, and meeting old friends

0 kms

Well for the author this was a distinct no day, Bev was able to operate uninterrupted fortunately and look after me !

I was still under the spell of my fine Peruvian guest stomach bug and distinctly under the weather (which was glorious from daybreak onwards as ever in San Ped).

A quick word on our fellow habitees in the hostel. Last time we were here it was full of really nice people and that makes a big difference to your stay. A great French family who we still remember as one of the best families we've ever met while traveling and a charming Swiss couple. It was like being with long term friends and ever evening was a joy. This time...indeed.

We had a lovely pair of English girls on a round the world tickets who were great company for Bev as it's not often she's had pure female company - and with me being dead to the world in the room she had a great girls time of it, and then.

A mute English couple, or we thought they were as any greeting was met with stares of disbelief and no communication - but then we discovered they talked to each other and were just ignorant bleeper’s (they could sit next to us at a table and still not respond).

Next up we had a group of German Hitler Dwarfs move in.....I can say this knowing of so many fine and upstanding Germans we have met on this trip (and of course previously). One of the monkeys has just swung into the hammock right besides me, without uttering a word or answering any welcoming smile.....so these are the German's the worlds afraid of. How can people not answer a welcome greeting or a smile, not even a grunt, it beats us that's for sure.

Maybe the problem is we are so sociable, and therefore assume other people enjoying the adventurers of travel would be too.

What the hell is the world coming to ? Have we entered a time warp ? We've decided it's not a great idea to return to somewhere were you have good memories as they are often then shattered. We were looking forward to returning here but something strange has happened.

It's the just the way you perceive places I guess, and this time is different to last.

One other thing is of course the route through Northern Chile, the bit we repeated. I don't think there is money enough in the world to make us do that ride from here to Arica again. It is so unremittingly tedious to make a fatal injection a preferred option ! Our advice, get the weather right and go through Bolivia - it is undoubtedly the way to go, and everyone says so. But we had the wrong timing on way up, and wrong route on way back.

So basically today was a right off, but at least the chemical action of that dear friend Cipro has put me back on course, and Bev is just raring to go. Chile has had it's time of us. The people, as witness the kindness we have experienced, cannot be doubted, but the scenery in the north is so far and few between it doesn't warrant return.

The worry about saying the above is we will soon return to our favorite country, Argentina, what will we meet ? Returning to Sandra and Javier in BA is a different matter altogether of course as it will be like returning to family, and something we are grateful for at that final departure point.

Friday 24th March 2006

San Pedro de Atacama

0 kms

What a difference a day makes.....health wise at least ! To say I have improved is an understatement. We are back on track.

We found our long lost package at the PO from Autocom, it looks like it was delayed by being opened somewhere else in Chile by the correo. Sadly the leads weren't a quick fix, and we were unable to get the intercom back to life. It will have to wait for the UK for investigation, it was great while it lasted, just a shame it hadn't lasted a little longer.

Trying to arrange one of the possible returning shipping options lead to a bit of a blank too when we weren't able to make phone contact. We can either ship the bike in the crate via a boat, which is the cheapest option, and fly it via Lufthansa, possibly without a crate which might not prove too hideously expensive. But we need the full prices and details to make a decision.

We were however able to contact Sandra and Javier, and then at least discovered that Friday was a holiday and so we were doomed to failure anyway. As always it was great talking to Javier though and just reinforced the fact it'll be great to meet them again......and they were mid asada too which made it even worse !

Discovered a wiring brake on the bike and had to carry out some interesting alternative surgery to a BM wiring block to recover the service.

In an interesting turn of fate, the two charming English girls left here saying to the owner that they'd be back tonight, whilst actually they are off to Bolivia ! And they managed to get a cheap deal on their room too. What's going on, has the world gone mad ?

No photos accompany this section as I'm sure you wouldn't be interested in the coming and goings of anything in the last two days !

Saturday 25th March 2006

San Pedro de Atacama - San Antonio de los Cobres, Argentina

350 kms

We rose early (for us) and were on the road by 9am, filled petrol (just as well, none on route - a wise decision as it turns out) and completed customs formalities easily on the edge of town before heading out. What we should have done was change the near £70 of Chilean pesos too, but that's another story.

The first 90kms odd paved, and we'd been down most of it on our previous visit so nothing new, there after all repio, and not good either.

The Seco Pass was rough but passed some attractive Salars and nice coloured hills (not to match Agua Negra though) but the route is used principally by heavy traffic and the surface was heavily corrugated which is amongst the worst for us two up and loaded, the bumps knock the stuffing out of the bike and us. At about 70kph you start to float over the worst, but the speed is not always possible.

Salar Agua Caliente on Paso Seco (Chile side)

There were at least two cars by side of road that were just empty carcasses, but obviously new. Could see what had happened. Many car transporters come through loaded from Argentina, and a combination of the load and the road had obviously lead to a couple being shed on the way. They were stripped down to nothing, but odd seeing the remains of an obviously brand new car aside the road.

Just the car chassis left after vehicle fallen off wagon on Paso Seco

The road climbs very slowly, so you hardly notice you are gaining height excepting the bike running poorer after a while, more coughing and spluttering. Obviously round the 4000m mark for a lot of the route. Not a problem for us as having been at 3500 or 4000m for a few weeks we don't notice the height at all, and fortunately neither of us encountered any difficulties really anyway....now would be the time for an assault on a big mountain !

A further Salar few kms on

The only habitation before the frontier was a Chilean police check point where they checked details but were really more interested to be seeing someone than anything else and we spent a few minutes chatting before continuing through quite a bit of 'no man's land'. Reaching the Argentinean border we were the first (and only ?) vehicle that day. The Paso Seco is not a popular route compared to the Jama pass (much better route, more later), The HGVs might use it, but the section we'd covered had no vehicles, perhaps because Sunday ? We arrived at the Argentinean side about 3pm and discovered we had gained an hour, great !

The formalities were easy and pleasant and I took the time to ensure I got the right paperwork as this will be our last 'in' before shipping and problem paperwork would be difficult to resolve as we leave the country. As ever Bev stayed out with the bike and they never needed to see her just stamped the passport as if she was there with me...it's a man's world in Latin America I guess. The border post had nowhere to change money, no gas, and no eateries, in fact naff all.

Now we had complained that the road to the border was bad, and it certainly wasn't easy on the bike or us, but what was to come made it seem M1 Standard, we were now in for the worst ride of the entire trip...thank you Argentina....so that's the price for our return

The guard said about two, two and a half hours to San Antonio de Cobres so that sounded fine. As soon as we got past the barrier it was obvious that this was not the case for a bike, maybe a 4x4, but anything else, not the case.

It was a return to full on deep loose repio. The SA Handbook had promised a good portion of tarmac....there was none ! The bike was on more road orientated tyres and was struggling to find a way to cut through the loose stuff and was hence swimming all over the place.

It takes time to adapt back to off road riding (the previous 'bad' sections now seeming like a good surface of course) and for the first 10kms or so we weren't relaxed into it and so fighting the bike and crawling along at a ridiculous max of 30kph. Once your confidence gets back you can eek up to 50 or 70 on the better sections, but clearly we were going to be struggling to make this leg in daylight. Then it got worse again !

A return to our favorite surface of all time....sand ! at first pockets, which you could see in advance due to the colouration. It's a frightening thing hitting a pocket of sand from gravel, even though only maybe 30kph the bike immediately loses control from the front and that's bad ! The trick is to slow in advance and then accelerate gently through leaving enough in reserve to be able to really rev if the bike still isn't going straight.

Our favourite road surface..NOT!..sand, sand, sand

So another 10kms and we are relaxed back to this method of riding and them we come across proper sand stretches rather than just pockets. There were whole stretches of 20 or 30m at a time of full width fine sand with ridges through were trucks had already driven. Now this was starting to get very difficult and testing. Due to time restrictions we couldn't even afford to let Bev walk sections unless I really thought I couldn't get through two up. There were only two sections that Bev had to walk. Then it got worse ! There were dunes across the road that had been dozed through, but what remained was like bull dust, fine and deep and churned up.

And so to our first 'crash' of the holiday.

We have so far (over 5 months) not come off the bike while ridding - how ever bad the conditions have become. We have fallen off the bike about 3 or 4 times - literally at stationary. The simple weight of the bike and the size on awkward ground, and dodgy footing, and we've tipped off the bike, but without injury or damage of course. But never when moving, until now !

The bike playing in the sand pit on Paso Seco

One of the stretches of sand got the better of us and at all of 20kph at the max the bike was ploughing left, then right, then left again, and my sudden dabs of feet weren’t' enough to keep near 500kgs upright and the bike went over tipping me onto the sand, and Bev on top of me ! Obviously the sand was a very soft landing, lovely imprints in it, and as we weren't trapped by the bike we were unharmed. Switch off the ignition & petrol and a quick piccie before trying to decide how to right it.

The trick is to remove material around the wheels and use leverage to ease the bike up without crippling yourself. Often folk take as much luggage off to make the task easier too. I just grabbed the bars, Bev dived under the pannier, and we hauled it back upright.

Bloody hell, this ride was becoming very trying indeed, and frankly with no rewards for all the hard effort. Really wished we'd taken the Jama Pass as it is a nice ride (the half we did), the Seco is not worth the effort, all the scenery can be matched elsewhere. We were getting concerned about the timing now too, if things didn't improve we would most certainly be well in the dark for half the ride, looked like the tent might even have to come out, we had water, but only biscuits so were encouraged to get to accommodation unless absolutely impossible.

So our first spill, but bloody frustrating so late in holiday, and so near end. Still, we have come off lightly compared to most, and 2 up is definitely twice as hard.

In fact we started getting to grips (wrong term) with the sand patches and as always, when coming across loose gravel following the sand it was so much easier to ride !

We were still riding high and gaining altitude so the bike was actually running as if the coil was packing up, so few sparks ignited the fuel and so much popping and banging.

We descended into a valley and the road joined another that was even more heavily used by HGV's. In the distance we could see a flume of what looked like white smoke, we soon discovered it wasn't as it came closer and then we realised it was a full on artic barreling down the lose repio towards us. It was clear we needed to get right over to the side and wait for it, and its following dust cloud to pass.....and hope there wasn't another one trying to overtake it !

We were lucky as there was a pull in at that point and we were able to get right off the road. The repio road the truck was piling down wasn't even straight at this point, it had a set of curves in it. In all the time we've ridden the repio roads we've never seen a truck going as fast as this one. It literally flew past at about 110kph snaking wildly. It was being driven like a rally car, and a tanker at that ! A few minutes later another the same, not at all what you want on a route as challenging as this was for us.

You should be imagining a large number of F words entering my vocabulary since quite early in the day, and this was all getting a bit mad really.

The road continued - I use that term as loosely as the previous gravel - and so did we. It was now often corrugated to a ridiculous extent, some sections we hit at 50kph and the handlebars wrestled around so wildly I was sure a couple of time we would be so out of control we would crash...heavily. You hold on tight as possible, brake gently and as the speed decreases the whole bike is pogoing on the corrugations until you get slow enough to be able to stop. Deeply scary stuff, and knocking the absolute hell out of the bike. No fun for us, but we at least have flexible frames, I was worried something would fail catastrophically on the frame. Luckily the bike is very well made and although things like the screen etc were rattling fit to destroy themselves, they never did. On a more modern plasticky bike like the 1200 you would just loose ancillaries all over the place.

The surface was a choice between these corrugations, and hard stone surface that had a similar effect, bone jarringly uncomfortable. Don't get the impression there was a choice either - it was one or the other, whichever was served up.

I've found in the past when things get this bad it's actually a much better ride to go for the loose surface at the side of the road or between the wheel tracks (when available). Though much less stable, the bike isn't being tortured to death. We even tried ridding up on the verge, or off the road, but it was too soft.

We were once again climbing and although bypassing a small mine had seen nothing for miles, and luckily no more trucks. We wound upwards once more and eventually hit the high point of 4560m as the sun was definitely on the way out. For any 'Great Railway journey' buffs this is were the Tren del la Nubes crosses so spectacularly.

The views were great of distant hills with snow caps, but the sun was going down fast, and we needed to too. Going downhill for the remainder or the journey might sound ideal, but I can make faster progress uphill thank you.

There were occasional adobe mud houses around so we knew we must be getting nearer humanity, but still had 15 of so kms to go with the sun having finally gone. It was freezing cold and there was the odd two tailored truck to contend with too, as in UK, they often travel at night for the empty roads - a scary thought. I was riding without my lights on for as much as possible for two reasons. One we were not going fast enough to put a really healthy charge in battery, and two, I could see more in dark by eye without lights that I could with them. As time went on this obviously changed and we had to use the lights. We were nearly down, and I was just thinking "wouldn't want any sand now" when, yes, you've guessed haven’t you. Sand...in the dark...what the hell else could happen. The corrugations were shaking the headlight so much that I was convinced the hot filaments would fracture, but we did eventually come out the other side of hell !

We saw the lights of the village and found the hotel listed in the book which was very welcome after 10 hrs of actual riding time. The 120kms from the border had taken over 4 hrs, crazy !

The hotel was not so cheap, but then £25 for a room after all the preceding was not a problem. The manager was very helpful and I managed to persuade him the bike could go in the lobby and we went straight for dinner. He knew the English like their beer, so wasn't surprised we ordered beer and wine at same time as food. The food was excellent too, a return to Argentina meant a return to the best beef in the world. We slept well.

Sunday 26th March 2006

San Antonio de los Cobres - Salta

160 kms

After a somewhat leisurely start that we had earned we had to sort out room payment. We had tried the ATM the night before without success, and still had about £70 of Chilean pesos we couldn't change as a Sunday and nowhere open. Tried finding someone local who might change it, truckers etc, without luck.

First time we have had to turn to our emergency stashes of dollars. The hotel let us overpay and we got Argentinean pesos in change....otherwise we'd have had no fuel either. The previous route of 350kms and no garage meant we needed some to ensure we could continue to Salta, with every likelihood (confirmed) of no fuel until then either after Cobres.

Having got ourselves out of that predicament (worth noting exchange rates from www for all your currencies so you know when caught out) we stuck some fuel in and left.

This area of Northern Argentina still has a strong cultural identity with the native peoples and is quite Bolivian in aspect, except without the poverty and rubbish.

The scenery was fairly barren of the high altitude type (still 3500m) until we dropped a little and the landscape suddenly became more arid and hundreds of candelabra cacti took over the landscape.

Cacti everywhere (big tall ones too) Cobres to Salta

The valley we followed was quite picturesque and there were many wild coloured strata doted around the views, quite beautiful - but if you want to see it (there is better available locally) come for a day trip from Salta, rather than from Chile !

We were stopped briefly by a older policeman (checking cargo) just so he could have a chat and we had a nice little conversation before continuing.

The hill tops were clouded and misty and it looked like rain. The area had obviously had some harsh weather very recently and there was lots of evidence of landslides, wash outs and high rivers even though we were in an arid area and it was warm and dry.

The ´closed´ road, stream crossing with Cacti on way to Salta

As we continued down the valley it looked greyer, and more threatening and the signs of damage, along with the quality of the road, deteriorated. We were riding once again on bloody repio and had to keep crossing small streams and rivers were the track was washed out. The scenery was changed markedly as it was now far more vegetated and trees had made a comeback and the hills were forested.

The road turned to mud, and snaked about the river in the valley floor and was taking on all the characteristics of the 'road of death' in Bolivia. It had got narrow, slimy, drop off edge, stream crossings and then also some double tailored HGVs that we met at a tight spot on a corner. We had to pull as near the drop off as dare and let them ease past.

After an age we rejoined tarmac - very bad quality though - and arrived in a small town that was very colonial looking and quite a sudden change from where we'd started the day. The area was so lush and a big surprise, I thought Salta sat in an arid area, in fact it's much more like the missiones area in the NE. All sorts of flowers and vegetables growing.

Back to lush vegetation before Salta (Tren de las Nubes bridge)

We missed Salta (how ?) and when returning back down the road met three Argentinean bikers who stopped us for a chat one actually owned a hostel in town and so took us there. Seemed good enough (sadly turned out was on the main route into town so got poor sleep) and we set out for town to see if we could change the bloody Chilean Pesos and get an ATM that worked.

The ATM was easy, but Sunday no money changers open. We were just in a shop when Bev felt a hand on her shoulder as I did on mine. I turned, saw just a chest, looked skyward and saw the huge beaming smile of Richard the Venezuelan we had last seen on the Careterre Austral months ago. Wow!

He had been sat in a cafe with Stephen the American on the KLR650 when we had passed. What a lucky meeting. We sat for hours and discussed our different trips. They had seen us and thought 'We're not doing to bad still being in Argentina now, so are Fritz and Bev', then they discovered we were on our way back! Easy to see how you can end up in Argentina for so long, the people are great, the prices are right, and it has virtually all the scenery in one country that you could wish for. They have been enjoying it so much, they haven’t left! We expected them to be miles miles north, or home!

As we chatted it turned out Stephen had met Oscar from Bolivia and ridden with him and his friend Gonzalez whilst in Bolivia. And also had been taken down the 'Donkey path of death' by Jeff and was startled to hear we also had on our much larger bike.

The other interesting detail was they were considering going to Cobres, but had been told they couldn't as the road was washed out ! The one we had just come down...maybe it isn't like that all the time then !

We had a great evening together, especially after such a chance meeting., unfortunately we didn't have the camera, so still no pictures of them. Stephen had a local girl in tow, and Richard had an Asada to go to, so we didn't cramp their style all night and instead took their restaurant recommendation and had some great empanadas and a huge rump steak between us.....boy is it good to be in Argentina again!

To foil that I should point out the only negative aspect...the town driving! Argies are suicidal once they get anywhere near a town and will do anything to over (or under) take to get that 3m ahead. The driving has been dubious in several places, but the speeds in the poorer places are generally slower. In Salta it was like a deadly game of roulette. Old wrecks would sail past within inches of the panniers or fly past at stupid speeds. Think it’s that Latino macho thing going on. It's not a problem when traveling on our own as I just generally travel quicker, but the ride into town following the other bike earlier today was easily the most dangerous ride we've had for ages (including our drink drivers !)

Monday 27th March 2006

Salta - Cafayate

197 kms

After an interminable nights lack of sleep we were ready for the off. I had wandered into town after waking early to try the money exchange. Straightforward I thought. The women took the money, checked it, and put it in two piles. Christ I thought, don't say they're all forgeries. No, the ones that weren't perfect they wouldn't take, or not without an additional fee. I was not impressed, the bloody notes would end up being used at face value whatever, so just said no thanks and took the money back. With hindsight of course I should have changed what I could, but just so bloody annoyed as at the border there would have been no issue, and you know damn fine those notes will all end up back with someone who will be able to spend them at face value in Chile. Another reason never to cross using the Seco route!

The road out of Salta continued through that surprising lush vegetation with fields of crops including tobacco and we crossed numerous flood fords that were still heavy with silt and the obvious signs that a storm had passed through very recently....looks like once again we have narrowly missed some serious weather. Happened on ruta 40, and the Careterra austral, and of course in Northern Chile and Bolivia. Very Happy about that though.

As you move further south you drop into more arid conditions and the Valle de Lerma displays is true beauty and what it’s famed for, strange and fantastic rocks formations and colours of the rainbow. Having had such a poor nights rest we were feeling a bit tired but still marveled at the display. It was a stop every few kms to photograph yet another amazing view, we'll let the pictures do the talking.

Start of Valle de Lerma

Arid rocks, not in Grand Canyon, Valle de Lerma

Cafayate is the town at the end of the valley and famed for its small wine producers and pleasant climate. It's hot, but not as hot as it gets, or got, and is a nice little place to stay. We’re here for two nights to recover a bit and get caught up on mails and getting details for shipping. The hostel (de Valle) is a lovely spot just out of the centre of town and very quiet. It's almost like staying in someone’s home, very friendly and lovely rooms, and all for a tenner a night. There are lots of places offering great value food and the opportunity to sample some of the local wines at prices that encourage you too!

Further strange erosions in Valle de Lerma

20th Mar 2006 - Nasca - Camana

Virtually 400 kms

Like lingerie, the more you pay, they less you get, ...

...seems that way with hotels, another crap breakfast from a three star establishment

We had our planned flight for 10 over the lines, but as was to be the pattern for this establishment everything then changed. After crossing the road for our flight (the reason we'd paid more in first place) we were told it would be at 11.30! Exactly what we didn’t want. It was air traffic controls fault apparently, my arse, they'd sold too many flights for the allocated slots, piss up and brewery came to mind another case of money taken, thank you very much, forget the service. Apologies for blunt language, but we were both peeved as we'd stayed here at greater cost in order to maximise our limited time, we planned to hack a few miles off our return route after the flight that afternoon.

In a rare case for either of use we complained bitterly and got moved forward, a bit. Needless to say we had to pay for the flight across the road and we'd been misquoted at the hotel (didn't mind that though as the price he'd given seemed ridiculous). It was $40 each for half an hour. It warns in the book that there are a lot of tight turns and turbulence, but I have always loved flying in any size of craft and didn't see a problem. How wrong can you be!

There were 5 of us and the pilot in a small Cessna type thing. Hardly room to move, but only half hour. He assured us we'd all see all the sights as those on left would get sight, then those on right. It was steaming in the tight confines of the plane and we were overheating before we took off. Headphones on, we were off. The first bit was a straight flight and fine if not a little hot. Then we reached the lines! Cranking over tight to the right with the buzzer wailing in background (presumably warning of imminent stall or wing snap) our pilot would wail, "the astronaut, the astronaut... can you see him" Yes you could see him, but the sweat was now pouring off us and the bile was rising. I've never felt sick like that before, guess mainly the heat. Anyway this continued for half an hour before we were blessed with the return flight of straight heading. The lines are amazing, but I was more amazed by the fact I was hardly able to enjoy the experience for the feeling I would be sick at any moment. It was more like a figure of 8 pole race than a pleasure flight.

Landing it looked like we were all glad to be back on terra firma, and released from the cramped sweat box. If they said "another round is free, hop in" I'd have said no, and that really is a surprise. Only way to see the lines, but honestly, no a pleasant experience. I’d suggest an overcast day....or ideally a balloon!

Needless to say when we landed we were charged a 10 sols airport tax (they're all the same!)

Returned (late) to hotel to shower, pack and leave, we discovered their Visa machine wouldn't work - fine for flight - so Bev had to go into town with staff to get cash, yet more delay. Frustrating. By the time we'd resolved all these issues we were near two hours later than anticipated. Bev refused point blank to pay full bill due to all the problems. Everything was expensive, accepted that to get what we wanted, but didn't get it so price was unreasonable, Bev stuck to her guns and we paid less (by a marginal amount). Perhaps we were unlucky with our experience.

So we finally left at 13.30, time we couldn't replace, left us short for time to get were we wanted - and not much between, hence the importance and willingness top pay more for hotel etc.

The first section was desert with strong headwind and intense heat, boring but only 50 miles odd so not too bad.

It was cooler at coast and more interesting, shifting sand on road a bit of a hazard, at one point there was a JCB constantly clearing it away - the strong wind didn't help.

Sand across road on Pan America by coast

At Chala it looked like a landslide with big boulders strewn across road. Checked with police and it was a demo. We could ride through, but only to further up road nearer were the demo was actually taking place. More rocks and huge numbers of vehicles, Bev counted 160. The police suggested we could go through if we pushed the bike, fortunately not too uphill. Made sure we were nice and said hello to everyone as we passed the big demo, and everyone was fine and spoke and were amazed at us pushing bike through demo. A local walked us through. Without that I guess could have been risky. Keep smiling. So that's why little traffic!

Road block(ade)

The Pan America for all its name would suggest is not heavily trafficked at all, in fact quite the opposite, you wonder at the economics of it, no Cost Benefit analysis here, or not based on any figures we'd recognise.

Stopped for a bottle of water and two pics, but nothing else - five hours solid riding. Sadly both Bev's batteries were flat so she couldn't even take any pics 'on move'. Great shame, as was lack of intercom, in worlds of our own.

This section of road has to go down as one of the best biking roads in the world. It's not without dangers, but the sinuous tarmac is something only motorcyclist would understand. Both front and rear tyres were scrubbed to the extreme edge which takes some doing with the bulk we're carrying. All this on a bike that supposedly doesn't handle that well to start with, has crap brakes (ignoring the leaking master cylinder!) and is overloaded. All that should conspire to create a Frankenstein like monster, but surprisingly doesn't.

The bends followed the curves of the cliffs and at times followed the sea at its level, and the next moment climbed high above it with little protection for overrun other than the sand, rocks, or sea below. Though lightly trafficked it only takes one truck coming towards you on wrong side of road to remind you of the hidden dangers. That along with sand and rock falls and other unusual features like the sea spray coating your visor - a new one! The tarmac is far from the best generally, but the newly surfaced sections where bliss.

Undoubtedly a STUNNING road, and amazing we are still finding them within weeks of leaving.

The other feature of the coast here was the people and what they must do. Quite unexpectedly, in what would literally be the middle of nowhere, hours and hours from any population of any size, you'd meet a group of people.
The only things that were obvious for them to have been doing would be fishing, or seaweed gathering. I say this as there were huge tracts of piled seaweed drying by the roadside obviously awaiting collection. There was even one whole processing plant. I guess the weed doesn't go for food, but fertilizer. Anyway it must be a very hard way to make a very small amount of money.

Some of the hamlets were incredibly rough looking with ramshackle houses constructed on base stonework that looked to date back to Inca times (and not the high quality stonework). Then there were houses (if you can call them that) made of raffia that were so ramshackle you wonder what protection they offer at all.

Time limitations meant we just had to ride and ride, sad not to stop on many occasions as so many amazing sights, but likelihood of riding in dark meant we had to push on. So no pics. Very sad to be short of time on this stretch, some great places to camp and enjoy two or three days on this leg alone. Stunning beaches deserted for mile upon mile in spectacular setting.

Having said all this, if we hadn't have the time restrictions the ride probably wouldn't have been so memorable.

As nearer nightfall we were back into oasis valleys like in Chile. Crops growing by sea with defenses - was it de-salinated by sand, or issuing from springs that close to sea? An odd site whatever.

Time getting on and still 100kms to go. We made Camana just as it got properly to dark. Never want to ride in dark over here as the risks increase ten fold.

We wanted a decent spot and had seen a sign Hotel turista (chain) headed for centre and asked a police lady and it was just around corner. Got here at 7 about half hour after total dark. Lots of unlit vehicles and bicycles and pedestrians on road - wouldn't want to be any later.

Nice place, good traditional food, I had Ceviche, Sea bass marinated in lemon juice with toasted corn and sweet potatoes, excellent and lots of it (though it was my downfall, see entries in couple of days!). Tried a Peruvian white wine (poor) and relaxed. What a day!

The holiday adventure isn't over yet!

Tuesday 21st March 2006

Camana - Arica

590 kms

As the pattern, another day of mileage crunching (look at a map and find Nasca, then find Buenos Aires...we're along way from our return flight! With hindsight we should have go open-ended flights and returned from say Quito. But we have a bike crate and some belongings in BA and it will be worth it just to see Sandra and Javier and friends again!

Up early (for us) the usual poor breakfast and then fuel up and off for full days riding again with no comfort breaks to mention and a border to factor in.

Sadly this stretch is a similar one to the stretch from San Pedro to Arica....utter tedium. At least in Peru we had some bendy sections to relieve the tedium. Actually it wasn't too bad, though nothing at all like yesterday. We were lucky that it was overcast as it kept the temperature down to bearable levels. What you have to remember here is from Nasca down it is all desert apart from occasional irrigated valleys. The vast part of today was sand, sand, and more bloody sand (fortunately not on the road though). We passed flat red desert sands, multicoloured valleys of sand, and more and more sand !

The latter part of the day was less interested until we got to Tacna, the last Peruvian town before the border. There was a piece of paper that the SA Handbook suggested we needed (the 'relaciones de pasajeros') and we wanted to try and get it there as we'd heard some horror stories of people leaving here without the paper finding open corruption and suggestions of the form being available in exchange for a goodly sum of money, or you have the choice of a 70kms round trip to get it.

We asked a local policeman and he suggested trying the 'tourist police'. I approached an attractive young lady in uniform and she insisted on coming and seeing the bike and hearing all about our adventures. Unfortunately she misguidedly said we didn't need the form so we left empty handed.

At the border it was obvious you do need it! They don't use this system elsewhere, but the form is used by both countries here at least.

Now obviously you can buy the form ($0.5) but the scam is the border guard (Peruvian anti drugs in this case) suggests he can provide one for a fee, and you must have it. It's obvious is a bribe as money is only mentioned when no-one else is in earshot. Anyway, he passed a form (four copies of course) across for us to fill in whilst we were playing our 'stupid' card and 'no understand'. We fully well understood, but often this gets you a long way. He asked for $10 but with our usual guile we had taken all the US money out of wallets so we had very little of anything so when we opened wallets we looked poorly provided for. To cut a long story short we paid $3, about 6 times more than official rate, but considerably less than many others have, and in fact without the form we'd have had more problems.

The border crossing was about the most disorganized of the trip really, for first time I had no idea were to go, or for what. Still, the rest of the Peruvians were fine, and it only took half an hour in total anyway. The worst part with Chile is the SAG officials. They are the ones who check for illegal import of fruit and veg etc and they are like right little Hitler’s.....definitely jumped up officials.

Anyway, with light fading we were through and on the way to Arica to the same hotel we'd stayed in before. We found it easily and knowing our way round town went straight back to the excellent eatery we had previously used before taking and early night ready for a long day ahead.

Sadly, this is when I realised I had picked up a stomach bug, the fact I was peeing through my backside was not a healthy sign. What great timing!

Wednesday 22nd March 2006

Arica - San Pedro de Atacama

700+ kms

We wanted to get off early today and usual poor breakfast we hit the road just after 8. Having taken two days to get from San Pedro to here on way up didn't want to do it again as it is so bloody boring a stretch of road.

Unfortunately all the best riding is over with in the morning as the first 200kms include some nice up and down and twisty sections. We met some more affluent Brazilians on big bikes doing a high mileage short tour but there after bugger all.

It doesn´t get much better than this..ahem..I mean it doesn´t get much worse than this for motorcycling

This section of road (after that 200kms) has to go down as one of the least inspiring roads on the planet (if not universe!). It is straight, hot, and BORRRING. There are occasional distractions by way of geogylphs, old nitrate mine ruins or 14kms of off road diversion, but otherwise it is mind numbingly boring. Image without intercom too, and then factor in the stomach upset, great!

To be honest, Bev had asked if I was up to it, I of course said yes, but in truth wasn't. The last thing you want when dehydrated and feeling totally drained, is 700kms of riding through 40-45 deg heat with no shade, and no rest.

Basically it was hell! Not big or clever, but I wanted to get here to relax, and breaking the journey wouldn't have helped (even if we could, not many opportunities). Even fuel is 200 or 300 kms apart.

Basically by the time we arrived (half hour before dark) I was a physical wreck. Definitely not the right thing to do, riding the length of France in the heat of the north Sahara when likely to be dehydrated, but there you go. Back into the same place we'd been before, a pass away from Argentina

17th Mar 2006 - Cusco

It's been a while since update. For a few reasons, not that we're in jail I'm pleased to say (sorry you will be seeing us again). We had a stop with no internet followed by two days of mileage crunching and your author is suffering a severe attack of stomach upset. All combined leading to no updates.....and after such a cliff hanger ending to last mail eh.....what a tease!

0 kms

Well I'll out you out of your misery re : that cliff hanger ending to the last entry.

We had to be back at court at 3.30 to see the judge again and resolve the assault charge placed against us all (the eight of us you'll remember!)

Jeff was suited, but the rest of us had only what we had. We were only sat in front of the JP in a room, not a proper court or anything. Our drunk driver and passenger looked considerable less jolly and smug today without the benefit of alcohol and fortunately had seen the error of their ways. Couldn't imagine they wouldn't to be honest.

They were dropping all charges and were apologetic for their behaviour. The case notes acknowledged that they had endangered our lives and that they had been stupid. With that we were all happy, only Jeff could have taken anything further as we all needed to leave.

The driver would be done for being drunk, but not sure what sort of penalty that carries here, I guess a slapped wrist and a fine, but nothing more. It was surprising to here he was a restaurant owner, and the passenger was a sculpture ! Both were in their twenties which staggered all of us as we thought late thirties.

The whole business had been a strange one, but not one I regret. It's all part of the adventure and I don't think any less of Peru or its people based on this incident.

It was quite interesting seeing how the police and legal system works in a minor way and how it didn't all go pear shaped like you'd perhaps think. Before we came to South America I probably guess we'd have all ended in jail overnight before any attempt at resolving the case even started, innocent or guilty.

I have no idea if the culprits used any back handers or not to extricate themselves, but we were all happy just to be on our way, and of course still alive after their ridiculous antics.

A brief celebratory drink was enjoyed at the outcome. An interesting experience, but not one we wish to repeat. Our names and a fingerprint are now filed away, but not electronically and I'd challenge anyone to find those bits of paper after a year from now.

We're innocent and free ! (But so are the guilty but they may have some aches and pains which they at least deserve)

Its one month til our return flight to the UK, and the adventure keeps coming!

Saturday 18th March 2006

Cusco - Puquio

528 kms

As our planned early night was not as early as anticipated ,well what do you expect when you're judged not guilty, we were not off until around 9.30

Today was likely to be a long day as the route to Nasca must be nigh on impossible in one hit due to the nature of the road. Everyone we had spoken to has had to split the journey. The roads we were told are twisty beyond belief combined with two high passes over 4000m and the weather is unpredictable.

To add to that difficulty there are few places to stop along the way. We had picked up a recommendation for an average place, the Plaza hotel in the halfway town of Chalhaunca. Jeff had recommended the town we are staying in as being better, provided you have the time to get there. In fact just this morning a Japanese biker was saying he'd taken three days from Nasca to Cusco, so it is quite a journey by all accounts.

Anyway we left with good weather and were lucky that Jeff’s ride the other day took us past the junction we needed so it was a simple task to ride out of Cusco and be on our way. We were even able to top up with 90 octane at the same petrol station too.

Leaving the area we passed through scenery very reminiscent of alpine scenery in Europe. The initial stretches were fairly straight and easy to cover ground. It was nice to see kids at the side of the road waving to us once again.

Then the road started to climb and the curves began, at first fine, but by the time we were descending towards Abancay they had become quite tortuous and called for much respect. Some tightened suddenly, others were fine sweepers. Quite apart from the curves there were many hidden obstacles. It seems the locals drive the cows, donkeys and sheep up the verge, but don't mind if they're in middle of road either. Dogs once again became a nuisance but one was stupid enough to get very close and my boot made a satisfying contact so perhaps he won't be doing that again, lesson learned I hope. It was a blessing that there was little traffic on the road, in fact negligible. Don't know if Saturday makes a difference, but a few trucks and buses and hardly any cars. In fact so lightly trafficked to make you wonder why the built it recently.

The very twisty road between Cusco - Puquio

Normally a twisty road would be a blessing on a bike, but this one twists and turns for so long it almost becomes a bind. My head was almost dizzy a couple of times. The concentration is heightened on twisty roads like these and considering the length of time we were riding this section it must be tiring on the mind. Imagine the twistiest alpine road, then imagine riding it for say 4 hours, quite something.

Entering Abancay was as normal, you sail in on a good road, end up in awful potholed local streets and have no idea how to get out again. It's a mystery why they don't use road signs over here, always the same. Best thing is stop and ask, which we do, and then you find the way. This place was quite a big town but seemed pretty isolated, and certainly not somewhere I'd expect to spend any time, a right dump really.

After yet more winding roads we were in a valley floor that we followed for some way that was in very good condition generally allowing for good progress. The only problems were occasional landslips that narrowed the road unexpectedly (no signs you see) or storm drains that crossed the road with various amounts of debris.

One particular was a bit nasty as it was round a blind bend and running with water and piles of gravel and sand and stones blocking the way. A sudden haul of the brakes brought into effect the anti lock mechanism.....oh no....that was me....and we were lucky with that one. A very unpleasant surprise which lead to more caution thereafter. I've heard of a few folk coming to grief on this road and it's easy to see why, its demands respect.

Now we were getting into buggersallville, very remote with just small isolated communities. The kids were great, running and jumping and waving. I guess they get quite a few bikes through here, and enjoy the welcome.

The weather had looked like breaking, but it just rained a little then stopped so we continued. We reached Chalhuanca just before three. We had the option to stay here, or continue. As it was 217kms to the next possible stop we weighed up the time and the weather and decided to get the next bit done too. If we'd stayed and the weather changed tomorrow we'd have a longer day in poor conditions. Due to the vagaries of the different time zones in different countries we seem to have lost hours as here it gets dark at just 6pm which is ludicrous !

The next section would take us up to 4300m and across a high plateau before descending to our destination.

The climb up was quite labored but well engineered and we were soon up around 4000m. The scenery was a bit weird as it was like a combination of Rannoch Moor and the high dales, but on steroids. There was a lot of it too, ran for tens of miles. There were several little llama herding hamlets about, which must be godforsaken places as no sign of heating, and no timber anywhere for miles. A damn hard existence!

Near to the high point of that stage we could see off to our left a huge gathering storm. Oh dear! It looked like we would avoid it, but needless to say within a further few miles the road was angling that way...looked like we were in trouble.

Being at over 4000m it was already bleeding cold and so the sight of a thunder, lightening and hail storm only a kilometer away was a good excuse to pull out the winter gloves and don full waterproofs.

That accomplished we were off straight into the storm. To be honest I was a bit apprehensive as a storm at this altitude could lead to all sorts of difficulties and even heavy snow that might leave us stranded which would certainly be no fun.

We rode straight into the jaws of it and were pelted with rain, and then the hail, not pleasant. Can't imagine what it would be like for a cyclist, guess you'd just stop and camp.

As luck would have it we were climbing the side of the valley and avoided most of it, only got 15 minutes worth, yet further to the other side was white over with hail. Lucky.

The plateau continued for some distance more, bleak cold and inhospitable. The descent was worse, fog, the second time in the day, but this time not due to hitting a warmer area, just cold fog. It was a slow process continuing down, even though only 30kms to go it took forever. Fog is crap on a bike, your glasses mist up, the visor mists up, and you end up ridding with visor open and no eye protection which is uncomfortable and difficult.

Finally Puguin loomed into view and looked quite sizable. In the way it does, the reasonable road disappeared and we gradually rode into streets unmade and layered in mud and slime. What a godforsaken place this looked. There were even side streets that were so bad I don't think we could have ridden on them, it was for all the world like a scene out of a prospectors town in the Wild West. Unbelievable. And sadly too wet for many pictures!

Puquio town centre, note river running down high street

It wasn't looking good for finding a nice posh hotel, and that was no surprise. I even had to check we were in the right town....we were. The locals said there was a hotel just round the corner, and indeed there was, well, a hostel. To be honest the Hostel Andes is not too bad, it's more the surrounding everything else that is lacking.

We went for a stroll around, it got dark within minutes of us arriving. Thank god we hadn't been later. The town looks no worse for being in fog and pouring rain, I'm sure on a sunny day it would look dire!

We found an internet cafe to mail Martin and Alan who were supposed to be on there way here, but they had enjoyed a rather too festive Saint Patrick’s Day (there were two Irish bars - no Irish - in Cusco) and not set out today. They are hoping to get from Cusco to Nasca in one day but that might be optimistic. We should meet them before we leave Nasca at least.

Dinner was not looking good as the only restaurant was full of kids watching TV and nobody eating, so we choose a fast food chicken place. It was OK but not too sophisticated shall we say. Still half cooked chips, an untouched salad, and half a chicken each which was good only cost under £2 I suppose.

We bought a Porto style wine for 30p to take back, it was good we poured it straight down the sink ! And that is a rarity I can assure you.

The other characteristic thing here is folk either speak and say hello, or are just open jawed amazed at the sight of the two of us wandering around in our bike gear. No point changing as you can see your breath and we'll be up and out without any sight seeing I think!

Some people were down right rude in their stopping and staring, or even coming back to stare again. The only time on this trip that South America has seemed third world. In fact, in some places today I would say it would be easy to think some of the folk might be less than friendly, as if this area was a stronghold of the Shining Path a few years ago, maybe was. I was reading in the political history of Peru that only 2 or 3 years ago a major near Puno was lynched by a mob for supposed corruption so I guess this is not the most progressive of places. Still, most folk are outwardly friendly and that's the picture we have most of the time.

Though our room is good enough, the tracing paper thin windows aren't so good at keeping the truck and bus noises at bay, and we are cold enough to be sleeping in T Shirts and socks. You wait, once we get to Nasca we'll be complaining about the heat!

Although blessed with general good health on this trip I seem to have developed a broken blood vessel in one of my eyes that looks a bit evil. Hopefully it will resolve itself, and maybe being at a lower altitude will help.

We must have been at high altitude now - above 3000 - for two or three weeks, think it'll be nice to be lower down once again.

Sunday 19th March 2006

Puquio - Nasca

200 something kms

It was good to leave our abode, as all night we'd had buses outside creating noise as they picked up passengers and departed, but had a surprisingly good night’s kip. There was no breakfast with the room and nowhere immediately nearby so we left dog town. Grim old spot really altogether. Petrol and some water and the ride to Nasca was all we had ahead.

The road was still sheathed in mist and fog and it was hard going. A few loony moments with two vehicles looming out of the fog directly in front of us to add to the general feeling of danger

The road was in poor shape with pot holes all over the place and hard to avoid in the limited visibility. Unfortunately the road took its toll and the panniers have split down the repair we had done in Porto Montt. Very disappointing as we don't really have time now to start looking around for repairs. We'll continue with duct tape slapped all over and hope it doesn't get any worse, or that we hit any torrential rain. Fingers crossed. So much for the costly repairs !

The road was just as twisty as previous and went over another 4000m+ pass. The scenery up there was weird as so much like the dales or Rannoch Moor again. At least we didn't get any real rain.

It wasn't until the last 30kms odd into Nasca that the temperatures heated up, but boy did they, immediately to about 35 and humid with it, such a change. And yes, we're now complaining about the heat!

Just before Nasca

We took a ride out north a way until the viewing tower from which you can see a very limited amount of the lines. What's clearer seen is the fact the Pan America goes right slap bang through some of the designs and there are looks of vehicle marks were people have driven off the road into the desert - not very good for such a world importance site.

There is the constant buzz of light aero planes taking people sight seeing over the lines too, which we will add too in the morning.

We are definitely at our furthest point now, and the only way is home!

We decided to stay out of town, and town looks a right something hole if you see what I mean. We decided to stay at a more pricey place by the airport in order we can get a morning flight and then head off and get a few miles in nearer Chile.

For a double room and a half hour flight each we pay £30 which isn't bad. There are options for longer flights but really we need to make some progress homeward now so this is the best plan.

Martin and Alan have made it about half way so as we'll leave in the afternoon we won't meet again....until the UK that is.

Because we're at a place outside of town we have to pay for food and beer at a higher price but there you go. A few biscuits and some water was all we had today as the only roadside places looked a bit grim. Don't mind them in most places but Peru looks just a bit too grim were we've been compared to other countries we've been too. There really isn't much choice in the sticks.

By doing a few days of just riding with little else we could be in BA in 9 days so we have room for movement, but we'll feel happier once we are back at San Pedro de Atacama as it's a hop and a skip to Argentina from there, and we'll know better our complete return details. At present we have our return flights, but yet to fix the details for the bike, which may or may not take a few days.

16th Mar 2006 - Cuzco Sacred Valley

140 kms

A day of many excitements, of which only half can be told at present......for legal reasons, we kid you not! But more on that one tomorrow.

Jeff had offered to take us out for a spin round his locale with his bike and we and Martin and Alan liked the sound of that. Chris and Liz are currently taking Chris's Mum round the sights with their in depth local knowledge so couldn't join us.

We met up about mid day and Jeff was ready with his virtually immaculate Norton Commando. For once we were we not the oldest in the group, and neither was our bike !

Jeff´s immaculate Norton Commando, jeff, Fritz, Martin, Alan

It was great to be on the road again after our little sojourn and being out with three other 'big' bikes is always a pleasure as you cause a stir wherever you ride. There are some larger bikes here, but the vast majority are small, 250s and the like. The combination of the roar of Jeff's Norton and the blatting of our old classic drawing turns and looks of awe everywhere the 5 of us went. No two ways about it, you get a buzz from riding like this at home, never mind through Cusco and rural Peru.

After taking the 'local' way out of town and calling at several petrol stations to get 90 octane (not a foregone conclusion they'll have some even here) we eventually filled up. I hadn't even noticed previously, but the pumps are in gallons. Sadly hopeless on quoting price too as we just put it in, and that's that. It's more than Bolivia, but cheaper than other countries been in, but then it's crap octane so should be!

The roads out along the valley were all tarmac (barring the 'optional short cut' detailed below) and generally in good condition apart from odd sections with pot holes to steer around. In fact the roads were damn good with some great sweeping curves and verdant countryside all around. The high snow peaks were generally obscured by cloud, but the dark clouds looked possibly threatening rather definitely.

The ride out through valley

Jeff first took us to one of the less often (but hardly secret or hidden as a world heritage sight) visited places here, the salt pans (ponds) nr Urubamba I think.

The salt pans, in use since early Inca times

A few kms down a dusty track, and with the bikes we were able to go all the way down where coaches etc couldn't, you reach a crest and looking over the edge you are greeted by the sight of literally hundreds of terraced ponds that collect and dry salt. The place dates back past Inca times and has been in continual use since.

A warm salty stream feeds in at the top end and channels direct the water to a variety of pools dependant on requirement. As the pools are 'disconnected' the water evaporates and the salt sun-dries and bakes into a cake which is then removed and sold.

It was a medieval scene and though we had about a quid entrance fee there was only one other locally hired 250 and a couple walking the whole time we were there. Jeff took us right down and showed us the pools and the irrigation channels. Fascinating stuff, the main memory is that of looking down on the site from above. Awe inspiring.

There were a few donkeys leading out of the downhill sight and Jeff said that route would make an interesting 'short cut' for us. It was narrow, but we could get the bikes through, the only 'difficulty' being a hairpin, or maybe two, were we might have to drag the bikes round to be able to negotiate the next section. He'd been there before so we all agreed it sounded interesting and 'a bit of fun'

Jeff leads the way on the 'broad' path

Setting off the track soon became a path, and almost straight away we came to a narrowing were there was just about three times as much tyre width as we needed and just enough bike width......the right hand side being very steep drop off...but less than 100m!

Martin still on the 'easy' section

We got past there and things improved.....for 50m....then the first (of about 6) hairpins loomed.

Now the two GS1150's, and our bike, are quite heavy (we still had half our luggage) and have high clearance, were as Jeff's Norton is light small and nimble with low clearance.

The reason I mention this is to demonstrate the advantages of smaller lighter bike on these 'adventure travels'. It's been repeatedly acknowledged that the bigger bikes advantages are ONLY on high mileage road days, otherwise the alternative wins EVERY time.

Jeff had warned of the 'couple' or hairpins on the descent and he wasn't wrong when he said we'd probably have to 'haul' the bikes around them.

Martin, Alan, Fritz before the tricky bits

It was hard enough riding down a very heavily rock encrusted steep narrow path, but the bends were engineered for foot or donkey and could not be negotiated by a motorcycle without several backwards forwards manoeuvres to gradually take the bike from one direction to another. In fact, for our bikes, it was impossible single handily. You needed extra assistance. As there not enough people to do the job Bev was helping me on the first one then Martin and Alan as they passed them. It was extremely arduous hard word and within seconds our jackets and helmets were running with sweat.

The difficulty was you had to get off and haul the bike back and forward in gear using the clutch as you didn't want the bike rolling forward and over the precipice. The extra ground clearance of our bikes made it even more difficult and very precarious, there were many times that each of felt they'd tip over, but none did.

It wasn't a route we had to take, but what's adventure if it isn't something you can foresee, no regrets for taking the route, and even though it was intense and bloody hard work it's always better looking back. There was absolutely no way on earth you could turn around and return and at least we knew it would get better after getting past these hardships. Any none off road riding folk I guess wouldn't understand why we do these crazy things, but it's what we seek!

By the time I was down I was just about a physical wreck, so hot and exhausted. I collapsed to the ground on my knees and just fought for breath and recovery. Mad...but fun.

All down, we continued over a rickety bridge and through some tight lanes back to the highway.

We rode down to Pisac for our lunch stop. There are impressive ruins here though we didn't have time to visit, and not so easy in the bike gear. There was a great little eatery, Ulrica's that stuffed us for little cost but great food and atmosphere.

Always great turning up at these tourist hot spots on the bikes as so many people (tourists) are amazed to see the English plates (and the Norton of course)

Leaving town we were to encounter the sort of thing you dread on a trip like this.........

A guy and his mate in a car had been blocking us in where we were. But chatting to Martin, and they left the square just ahead of us.

Jeff set off and passed them and we followed them out of town. As we got further out onto more open roads the car was going at a rate were we couldn't really overtake as the altitude doesn't allow for blistering acceleration we simply followed knowing at some point it would get twisty and we'd have the opportunity to pass. Then it all went weird..........

The car started to move more the left and even straddled the centre line even when a bus was oncoming. Blimey, this guy’s a bit of a nutter I thought, but never really considered it more. Then he was cutting the left hand bends on wrong side of road. Again, didn't think too much of it as drivers aren't generally very great here.

Then as we came to some sections were we could perhaps overtake he was completely on the wrong side of the road. I then began to think that this guy (and his passenger) were perhaps a little more than averagely stupid drivers.

What clinched it was when we did go to overtake and he swung hard left in a clear blocking move. This was looking dodgy I thought, only way to pass was to do somewhere we could safely on the bike, but he couldn't, and at that point he also swung onto the wrong side of the road and blocked us. We hung back and I motioned to martin and Alan behind us that this guy was clearly loco, Alan had witnessed the whole side swipe incident anyway.

After a further passing attempt that had the same consequences I just blared the horn on and followed him the next corner he drove on the wrong side again and nearly ran head on into an ambulance.

This was getting beyond a joke now and was obviously becoming dangerous so I had to just keep following the car. Martin and Alan with their fuel injection which has little problem at altitude managed to overtake by one going either side.

I was still unwilling to overtake as we were two up and I wouldn't put more than myself in danger.

At that stage I would have been happy to pull over and hopefully let these idiots continue ahead and hopefully disappear. Jeff had stopped for us to catch up and we all indicated that the car was crackers.

Martin and Alan were gesturing for him to pull over and slowing him in the hope we could nip past but them the passenger opened the window as we were accelerating up to pass and waved an empty litre bottle of beer out the window in a mace style with the threat to throw it.

If he had of stopped before that point I would have been happy to grad his keys and chuck them over the road edge to severely lengthy his journey onwards, but now we were in a whole new ball game. Things had got a lot worse.

The guy was still swerving around the road, we weren't going to overtake, but the other three bikes were in front and Martin and Alan had been witnessing first hand his antics and were not pleased at all.

They, like we, and Jeff, wanted them to pull over and discussions were not the first things on our mind. This guy had clearly been playing around, and his games had turned very dangerous. It's hard to explain how vulnerable you are on a bike in these situations.

Jeff had the local knowledge to race ahead to a couple of points were he knew police would be parked up, and his hunch was correct. He's desperately got them to realise what was happening and as they came round the corner one of the policemen was in the road indicating them to stop, they hared past with the passenger still waiving a bottle out the window.

Now at least the police were involved and we pulled over to let them take up the chase. A couple of kilometres on the car was pulled in at a lay-by overlooking the city were various locals were also stopped. The guys were out of the car as the police car screeched in and we all pulled up almost immediately.

Now however some people might think, I actually have a very long fuse when it comes to anger, and violence is not something I'm ever prone too without being pushed a very long way.

The only time I would let go would be when family are involved. As this guy had had not only attempted to kill me, but also Bev I was not in the mood for reflection. Neither as Alan or Jeff after our ordeal. I strode up to the passenger and ranted at him about how he's attempted to kill us and swung out with as hard a kick as I could muster oblivious to the police presence. I then immediately strode over in a red mist to the car where the driver was and ranted the same at him as the policemen stepped back and planted him too, before Bev pulled me back. I was absolutely livid. Alan and Jeff had basically done the same too and the two of them were looking pretty startled and a crowd had gathered and were on our side as I guess it was pretty obvious we were not just laying into these guy for nothing.

The police in all this time had effectively steeped back and let us have our brief bit of justice as of course they had not exactly been respected by these two either. We definitely got the feeling that they were far from concerned about us giving them a restrained beating before they took over.

Obviously Jeff’s fluent Spanish was extremely helpful and they were then effectively arrested. We had to follow the police to the station in town to see what would happen as we were not in the slightest bit happy, and both the driver and passenger absolutely reeked of beer.

To cut a very long story down to the bare minimum it was obvious the police wanted to nail these guys too, and they were taken in for statements. Amazingly the passenger now had blood all over his face, that we knew hadn't been inflicted by any of us and we could see perhaps the threat of assault being brought against us. The wound had either been self inflicted as a measure of guilt transferral, or perhaps the policeman that had been ignored.

Anyway, we didn't like the look of it. Jeff called on his local contacts and got a Lawyer who teaches law to drop what he was doing and attend as Jeff was determined the matter should not just be dropped. The four of us were all planning leaving in the morning and feared this might likely delay departure.

We weren't approached for statements at first, they were happy from what the police witnesses of the driving had seen that that was evidence enough. Still we had to wait around a couple of hours before the authorities had to pass it over to the "tourist police' as foreigners were involved. As it turned out the tourist Police were on holiday and it was decided we all had to go to the downtown police station for statements etc.

We were concerned about the fact we had wreaked a little of our own justice on the two of them, and the snippets we heard back sounded like there was the possibility of assault charges against us.

We had to all trail down to the other station, at least getting the chance to park the bikes at the hostel and change. It all got very disorganised and the previous statements of the defendants were apparently not correct and had to be redone, we were concerned that perhaps things may get re-written, and in fact that money might be exchanging hands. Not good.

As it was, Jeff managed to get a statement for all of us based on our agreed experiences which was easy and the whole was due to be put before a JP there and then. Bev had videoed some of the antics so at least we had that.

The two idiots were somehow still looking a bit smug with the driver being a particularly smarmy person and it was extremely difficult to be in the same small space as them

The JP listened to all the evidence, it was clear that they were definitely drunk, and Jeff's lawyer was putting the case for them basically endangering our lives and potentially attempted manslaughter.

Their argument was based on the 'assault' and that there were eight bikes driving aggressively (seeing double then). We thought it would be a forgone conclusion with the police evidence, but they weren't present now bizarrely.

It was just gone 11pm and the JP should have finished. Basically it came to the point of we'll have to continue this tomorrow, between 15.30 and 23.00.

Exactly what we didn't want to happen, we'd have to stay another day, and the possibility of their incredibly dangerous driving being countered by an assault charge. It was all looking farcical…

12th Mar 2006 - Cusco

0 kms

Well to be honest writing this few days down the line I can hardly remember the details, but…

Started the day late and with slightly foggy heads due to that 2.30 am finish in Norton Rats last night. Great at time, but next day seems a less good idea. Of course wouldn't swap it as we all had a great time swapping tales, and Jeff as Mien host could hardly be bettered!

Generally a rest day then! Decided to organise a trip to Machupicchu through an agency as details weren't entirely clear in the 'Handbook' (a rare example) as to how to go about it ourselves, and we didn't really talk to Jeff about it either. So we tried a few and got the general idea before deciding on one that we thought better than the others.

Basically you get a package consisting of a taxi to the train station, options on train, either backpackers or Vista Rome (we'll ignore the Hiram Bingham luxury service at US$476 p/p), pickup at station in Ague Client, overnight in Hostel, transfer to bus at daybreak and bus to site, 2.5 hr tour with guide, rest of day - till 16.30 to ourselves then return journey via bus, train, taxi to hotel by 20.00.

The price for an organized tour is obviously more than independent, but we just wanted it sorted so would pay. In effect it was US$360 for both of us, or £104 each, obviously more than doing it yourself. But we just wanted to get it done easily so went with that, and let's face it, not bad to visit somewhere we've dreamed about since childhood.

Booked it to leave next morning.....well same night as far as we were concerned seeing as we'd be up next two mornings at 5am...great after the 2.30am finish this morning !

And so to bed.

Monday 13th March 2006

Cusco - Machupicchu

0 kms by bike - train

5am is a good forsaken time of the day anywhere, but 5 minutes after getting up that's over with and the day has begun.

The taxi arrived, there were a few people sleeping in street outside (only a few) and plenty of folk setting up for the day. There were sights you don't generally see, people sorting through rubbish...later it would be gone. In one case a kid in school uniform, long day ahead for them, hard life.

The train station was a buzz, but we were on time and got a great service like BR first class, smartly dressed attendants and good allocated seats. We'd plumbed for the vista Rome service as little better from viewing perspective, otherwise not sure of difference from 'backpackers' train.

Biggest surprise to us was the fact you effectively descend all way from Cusco to Machupicchu....it's lower than here even at the site! Thinking about it, it makes sense as I guess you wouldn't get such good living or crops at 3300m in comparison to 2,380m

Having said all that you have to leave Cusco first and that means a climb out of city. Never been on a train that ascended the way this one did, and sure some technical name for the methodology, but I don't know it so description alone.

Like a road climbing in hairpins saves space, so to does having a number of climbing gradients and points. the train goes straight at I guess it's maximum gradient, then comes to the end, the guard switches points, and backs an equal steep section, before the same again forwards. Hence by the backwards and forward motion you quickly gain height without a massive land take, clever!

Was nice to discover a simple breakfast was included and the attendants served the same way hostesses on a plane would.

So after the climb through some rubbish strewn less salubriously neighbourhoods (with great views of the city) we were on the virtually constant downhill to the station called Ague Caliente, but wanting to be called Machupicchu.

The journey is slow but very picturesque, only about 69kms but 3.5 odd hour’s time wise.

By half way along the scenery has swapped from pastoral to immense steep sided mountains closing in on the line. An easily protected route (unless you're a peaceful culture like the Inca's, who I always confused with Aztecs until now). Even with the roof lights you couldn't always see the tops of the mountains, some even overhanging faces. How the thousands of Bromeliads hang to these faces I don't know, but they do.

Now we were lower and into a more temperate jungle region, all around the vegetation lushly sprouting forth.

You pass several spectacularly ancient sights on the way, some I guess pre-Inca and defensive in nature as very fort-like, the journey is definitely more than the sum of the parts and worth enjoying in it's own right, definitely in the class of 'Great Railway Journeys of the World' even though short (distance not time).

The village of Agua Caliente nestles between majestic peaks

By our destination we were truly surrounded by the most amazing of steep sided vegetated peaks. The view you see behind Machupicchu is those same peaks, from below they are equally impressive as you crane your neck from the shadow lands below them.

Disembarking we were collected and taken to our basic but fine hostel for the night. The town is small, and we were on the edge, but if was fit for purpose and fine. As we had arrived at 10am we obviously had quite a bit of the day spare. The local tourist info gave us some options and we decide to go for the walk to a waterfall and the museum of the Machupicchu site.

The walk down to the waterfall involves starting from the old railway station were you cross the river to Machupicchu and walking a couple of kms down the line. We didn't realise this section was 'live' so were surprised at the hoots and smoke of a train bearing don on us! Fun anyway though very muggy down here as temperate jungle and temps of around 25 degs. When we reached were the falls entry was, a small 'jardine' or garden apparently, we had to pay 5 Sols each. A little overpriced as it wasn't that spectacular, but the walk had been interesting at least. Saw some nice plants and a few pretty birds.

The wander down the train line, not out of use after all!

Returning to the road we visited the Machupicchu museum and orchid garden. The museum was 20 Sols each (just over a quid) and quite enjoyable. We got far more background than we previously had, and it would make a great introduction to the site. Due to it being located at the bottom of the hill up to Machupicchu site it is very rarely visited by folk. Shame as it's very informative and a good modern but small museum. Certainly glad we visited it first. The Orchid garden would be at its best in a month or so, but even now there were some wonderful plants and exquisite smells. Also a few large butterflies and humming birds. We saw a large cat sized rodent on way back to road too.

Returned and ate - not too surprisingly lots of tourist facilities in town as this is were the train ends, and the bus to Machupicchu starts.

We'd opted for two days in order to get a full visit of the site. If you do it in one day this way you arrive about 10am at sight, have 2.5hrs guided tour and only an hour or so before you have to return, not enough time.

And so to bed for yet another 5am start.

Tuesday 14th March 2006

Machupicchu - Cusco

0 kms by bike - train

A 5am knock on the door, and a breakfast (quite good) at 5.30. Our personal assistant arrived and took us to the bus at 6am and travelled up with us to ensure we got there OK and knew the score.

We had nearly half an hour to ourselves before the guide so wandered it to see our first spectacular - and it is - sight of Machupicchu. Undoubtedly it is a special moment when you first see it, and all the more so for the lack of visitors wandering around at that time.

First sight of Machupicchu in swirling cloud

The pictures do more justice, so limited words on this one.

The guide was very knowledgeable and excellent covering not only the history, but also the mythology, and a few close to the bone home truths on the site and the money raised etc. He was a great bloke and we could have spent all day in his company. Two of the lads there who were as interested as us christened our guide 'the Inca thinker' and it was very appropriate as he had a very good alternative view of life, in the right way, not some semi-hippy ideology.

This next comment is going to sound arrogant in the extreme, but it's a personal view (of us both). We'd say 60% of the folk visiting the site shouldn't be there as they have little interest other than saying they've been there. And more controversially, 95% of Americans shouldn't be there either.

Our group consisted of a mixture of nationalities, but the ignorance and manners of more than half of them were a real nuisance to us. No concern for talking over the guide or interrupting our attempts to make the most of the guide’s knowledge. Very irritating. But we, as a nation, have occasional to be branded similarly when we visit other countries for the pleasures of beach holidays or even football I guess. The people you see and meet are representative, but not necessarily a true reflection of the society they come from.......we all hope!

The light rain continued on and off for most of tour but wasn't enough to spoil anything, and only added to the surrounding views as the clouds engulfed the site occasional adding extra mystique.

The history you can find out for yourselves, but the oft mentioned masonry skills and staggering vertical nature of the sight can be glimpses in pictures or better experienced first hand.

We had a few hours to ourselves after the guide and spent those wandering around the sights various aspects. The temple of the Moon path was closed which was both a disappointment and benefit. It has the most stunning of views, but takes a perilous path to the top of the overlooking peak. Due to a landslip it was closed and we had no option of the climb anyway.

Inca terracing, some structural, some for growing crops

Many words can be spent describing your feelings and the immense beauty of the place, but we'll let the pictures talk.

A view of the site from higher

A couple of observations though. Many of the buildings reminded us of Scottish (not again) ruins of castles - see if you can see that in the high pitched roofs? The site is lower than we though altitude wise. It's far more interesting from the perspective of the sites like to surrounding areas and Inca beliefs and lifestyles. Biggest surprise is the lack of real investigation, most of the finds in museum were from late nineties to 2004 - quite unbelievable considering around 1500 at £13 a time viewed the sight today, and that's 'off peak'.

A Scottish castle ruin - go on squint a bit! (similar period too)

We returned to the bus as by mid afternoon it was thoroughly chucking down and we'd seen the bits we were able too. Time for lunch in town before the return train. The sights were as spectacular in reverse, the number of other things you see being surprising. (Not so for the number of tourist...mainly one nationality...who spent the journey watching DVDs on their personal players or with heads stuck in novels....why come ?)

Marvel at that stonework, size, quality and fit, exceptional

A strange thing occurred on the trip back. The background music heightened with some Peruvian music and suddenly to our side appeared a spectre in traditional dress and those particular knitted face balaclavas, quite startling when you're sat there looking forward and this face appears to one side of you. A dance up and down the carriage was an introduction to the steward and stewardess doing a fashion parade in various pricey alpaca fashion items...all for sale of course. Don’t think you'd get either of those on BR.......yet !

Imagine that in your face on BR?

Back just after dark we had the only let down of the package, no one made themselves known for the transfer back to the hotel, so we took a taxi. Safe and cheap, but disappointing.

Martin and Alan's bikes are here in the courtyard along with ours and Chris and Liz’s, so quite a collection, and all UK reg !

Casa Grande and Brit biker collection, nice central spot

A few beers with Jeff in Norton Rats and off to bed feeling somewhat tired, but exhilarated by the day.

Norton Rats Tavern. We occasionally go there!

Wednesday 15th March 2006

Cusco

0 kms

Cusco is a beautiful city, all Spanish style colonial buildings on top of Inca foundations ruins roofed in clay pan tiles giving it a different feel to previous towns and cities. A bit of a wander and some museums today before meeting Alan and Martin in 'you know where' for a 'couple' of jars. There is the possibility of a ride out with Jeff to the sights of the Sacred Valley tomorrow.

Typical colonial detailing

Cusco skyline (that's the Inca colours on flag)

The Inca foundations the conquistadors built on - again, absolutely stunning stonework (work related! I'm so dedicated I think of work most days.. have to every day soon.)

We had another bit of blind panic about our time till return again this morning, but looking at the map we have to give ourselves the opportunity of at least this possibility of a local tour to see what we are missing, and still get to Nasca for the tourist bit there before our final real return to BA.

10th Mar 2006 - Puno, Peru (Lake Titicaca), boat trip to Islas floatantes de los Uros

0 kms by m/c,

We had chosen Puno as a stopover as it is close to the traditional Titicaca sights. The floating reed islands of fame. Several firms offer tours, but one in our hotel was the same details and price as another good one so we booked here. We had breakfast - bloody poor again, even in a 3 star place, and then got picked up for the boat.

There had been a huge storm last night and the remains of the hail were all about and the surrounding hillsides were a little white. Not a great start, and a promise of continuation. Another annoyance was the fact as we waited on the boat a guitar and pan pipe guy came to serenade us. Really bleeps me off this milking a waiting crowd. Anyway I'm hardened enough not to pay, but it makes me feel uncomfortable. It's that trapped feeling I think.

A grey start to the boat ride to the floating islands

We set off for the islands and in all honesty it was quite apparent early on that what we were visiting were little more than islands set up for tourists.

Having said that it was still interesting in the same way a living museum is. You know the folk at Beamish Museum (in Northern England) go home on a night, but they still give a good show during the day. I'm not saying the people here go home away from the islands and change and you might see in a bar later, just not entirely real.

Tight bound reeds, the basis of many things

Whatever the reality, we still saw how the islands work and how the people live and it was quite interesting. The water was about 18m deep, the reed island about 2. The construction is simple but effective and lasts about 25 years but maintenance is every 8 months.

There was evidence of blue plastic sheeting and corrugated tin under reed roofs and lets face it, who could blame them.

Along with the information is the 'opportunity' to buy local goods. We can't be too harsh as this really is a way these people survive now, it is their life.

We also had the chance for a ride in a 'real reed boat' and although again a tourist thing, we did it anyway as when else would you get he chance to sail on Titicaca on a reed boat ? We weren't expecting an invite from Thor Hyadal so paid our money and went! And it was fine though obviously a bit crap.

Traditional boat

The weather had been a bit unkind to start, but let off the rain by later and even slightly warmed by the time we left.

If I was honest, I'd say it was a let down, and not something really worth making a point of doing. But, at the same time it's the nearest you';; get to seeing the lifestyle so I guess you can't knock it too much. There must be better ways of seeing the more genuine thing though, but perhaps that might not be so nice either, maybe the sanitised version is easier accepted.

Traditional (tourist) boats and reeds

We were back by lunch and decided to have a wander around the 'local' scene. There are stacks of tourists here, and the thoroughfares of the main streets are busy with them, move a few blocks away, as anywhere, and they disappear.

We're always a little cautious of the possibility of robbery or theft in these 'markets' but if you go empty handed there is little or nothing to fear. The draw back is there are no pictures to relate the images we see, except in our heads of course which is the main thing.

The market covered all spectrums from vegetables to meat and fish to clothes and all types of strange things. The veg looked great, particularly the several types of spuds on display. The meat, not surprisingly, looked less appetising - Chick feet in garlic anyone? Maybe a dried sheep’s head? The fish showed the limited choice for such a huge expanse of water. Trout isn't here, that's bred for the tourists (and nice it is too), but only four types of fish for sale. Some little pudgy tench like fish, small semitransparent sardine like things, a Mackerel like thing, and then the very excellent Pejerry. Even they look pretty small and disappointing, but fortunately taste excellent. None of the fish is of any size though, strange in such a huge lake. (I'm sure you all know it’s the highest navigable lake in the world?)

A couple hours of interminable internet to pass on these wonderful details and catch up on news from home and the afternoon was complete. Just time for a nibble for tea and bed with the huge question mark over us of what the weather will bring. Undoubtedly we are in a colder area now, bloody chilly of an evening, and although out of the wet season mainly for Bolivia, it seems like it gets pretty wet in Peru often at this time of year. We'll see in the morning.

Saturday 11th March 2006

Puno to Cuzco

398 kms

Well I guess we got lucky again as the weather was fine, grey, threat of rain, but fine. Negotiating the glass door, sofas and sliding carpets with the bike was fun but easy enough, just imagine asking to have your bike put in the lobby of a hotel in the UK!

I guess a few folk wonder how I cam manage to get so much information typed and mailed on a regular basis? Well it's all down to carrying my very handy Palm Tungsten T3 PDA (like a miniature computer basically} and a small folding keyboard. The two together pack up as small and light as a paper notebook. The battery allows for a few hours typing, and it is either recharged by plugging through 12v to the bike, or from a USB at the internet cafe. Internet is absolutely everywhere. We only found two villages without it on the whole trip I think, astounding. And it’s like that throughout most of the world now, developed or undeveloped. As for the quantity of words, well, you'll just have to believe me when I say we sit and I type of an evening in our room with a beer and this is just scratching the surface. There are so many things that happen, that don’t make it into mails that sit as memories for us, no really!

We were saying goodbye to the bright dark blue waters of Titicaca today and returning to the hills - but ironically dropping a few 10's of metres by end of day. Leaving Puno my quest was to find some half reasonable octane fuel. Although fuel costs more here it is harder getting above 84, there is 90 but you have to search. The road out was a mix of OK and long sections made up of hand laid patches that jarred for kms.

The next major town, I forget the name, is a hell hole, really is, and recognised as such. As ever there are no signs indicating which way anywhere is, and roadwork’s had streets dug up to add to the confusion. I am slowly getting the hang of the naming of the streets and can sometimes gauge the way to the centre and try and figure out from there.

It’s a peculiarity of South American countries that virtually every town has the same street names - varied in each country. They are based on battles, heroes, important days etc. The main ones run to the Plaza de Armas or similar - their town square and after a while you can get the idea. If it was the UK they would be I guess, Trafalgar, Agincourt, Montgomery. And various dates I can't think of. Imagine every town in the UK having those streets and some variants, weird eh? I know we have plenty of say Long Streets, but not quite the same.

Anyway, this place is grim town and the sooner we were out the better. At least if you ask people they are helpful and direct you the right way, and so we eventually got out.

Another surprise in Peru is the railway lines are used, well to Cuzco anyway. In many SA counties the lines are left in place but long since derelict, today we came across trains three times, a record. I guess the route Puno Cuzco is one of those 'great railway journeys' and hence the reason. We came upon an unmanned crossing later in day were the train was passing and we stopped and gave the train drivers a return wave and even had a minor horn blowing contest. Our replacement horn may be louder than a car, but was no match for the train, good fun though. Mainly western faces in the rather attractive looking carriages.

Our route took us from the lands adjacent to Titicaca into rolling hills that gradually gave way to higher occasionally snowcapped peaks. It looked like Mongolia or somewhere and the adobe house changed with the landscape. Larger than those in Bolivia, but still based around a small courtyard and thatched roofs, very African.

Thatched farm further along route

And another

The road climbed to about 4300m before falling away the other side towards Cuzco and the Sacred Valley and a complete change of vegetation.

The road from Puno to Cuzco, near high point

Even high, high, on the hillsides were fields or terraces and everywhere was heavily productive with lush verdant greenery abounding. The houses also changed from thatched simple dwellings to more hacienda styled houses and farms. Now looking far more characteristic of Spanish colonial architecture.

The sudden change was quite a surprise. I guess it comes from the long historical connections to Inca society and earlier were the whole society was based on production and ensuring supply = demand.

We came across a wonderful historic sight shortly before Cuzco itself (there are many and we wanted to get there so didn't stop to investigate all the options) an Inca gateway and wall. Very impressive and grand and worth a wander around.

Inca wall and gateway Nr Cuzco

We had narrowly missed being soaked earlier, one of those happy occasions were we donned the full waterproofs to the sound of thunder, but then had to take them all off 20kms later as it warmed, and it was following us so we were off.

Just before Cuzco itself. At a village police check point a policeman stood out and motioned that we pull in. Bugger, going to do me for speeding I thought. But no, a brief discussion on where we were from and then to his business. He asked if we had an English pen? We did, but only biro, but that was what he was after. Producing one and passing it to him he was obviously going to keep it and wished us all the best and waved is on our way. Cheeky beggar!

Arriving in Cuzco it was obvious the place is based on heavy antiquity and a nice looking place. Sadly virtually our first vision was the dirtiest tramp / dropout I think we have ever seen, stooped , grimacing with his hands in his open flies while watching some young children on the opposite pavement, not the best introduction!

It got much better soon after when we stopped with the blackening skies closing in all around, when we were approached by Jeff. Are you English he asked? Have you met Chris and Liz yet? No but we're here to. We had received a mail from them saying they were here and would we like to meet for a beer or two. Last saw them in Ushuaia. How spooky eh, more spooky as Jeff runs 'Norton Rats Tavern' here in town. A regular biker’s bar and overland travellers hook up point that is hard to surpass. Happy chance meeting. He recommended a hostel around the corner that had safe parking and couldn't have been more central, and was only round the corner from the bar too!

Remarkably it was where Chris and Liz's bike was, though they weren't. Chris's Mum was over visiting so they'd gone to a better place to be with her. They were due at the tavern though so we knew we could go there.

We had only enough time to unload before the heavens opened, so very lucky. Casa Grande is relatively basic, but it a great old building, brilliant location, and friendly staff, what more could you want. Friends and a bar? Sorted!

We went to the Tavern and had a burger and a few beers and then Jeff appeared and we sat and had some great discussions on biking and travel and had many things and places in common. On the walls were some pictures from Kent Custom Bike Show in 1985 that almost exactly match one I’d taken. A motorcycling home from home.

Chris and Liz walking in a little later and we all sat together and got stuck into some heavy bike talk and drinking. Several Piscola's and sours later it was 2.30 in the morning and we all had to split.

Great night, great people, and a bloody great place, Norton Rats Tavern should not be missed.
It´s here http://www.cuscoonline.com/nortonrats/

We are lucky now as we can gain from Chris and Liz's experience here to find the things we want and need.

7th Mar 2006 - La Paz - Cocacabana (Lake Titicaca)

195 kms

Had the place to ourselves on waking as Oscar and Elizabeth were out but they came back to join us for the ride towards Titicaca. We set out together on some of Oscar's direct routes straight up the sides of the bowl that encompass La Paz. These involved some fair old inclines and the bike was certainly struggling for breath with most of it being first and second gear. Certainly steeper than Sutton Bank and more like long stretches of Rosedale Chimney, fair old struggle two up fully loaded, lots of blipping of throttle required.

Back on the plateau and into the vast sprawl of El Alto it was good to have the local knowledge for a few shortcuts avoiding the bottlenecks. We recognized much of the journey from our ill fated attempts the other day when we got the right road, but wrong side of La Paz.

As we left El Alto we were treated to the full run of the high Andes on our right with some fantastic looking pointy peaks and other mammoth summits. All very tempting, and quite achievable from La Paz with the near 4000m head start.

We had to eventually pull in to take some photos and while we were there the unmistakable sight of a GS1150 loomed past, instantly recognisable as Martin and Claudia. We knew they were heading to Copacabana, but didn't know when. A chance meeting so we all greeting each other and introduced Oscar and Elizabeth.

Decided to all head for lunch together, and Martin and Claudia would ride with us to Copacabana and we'd stop together. Oscar and Elizabeth were unable to get away and join us there so were only going as far as the ferry.

There are two ways to get to Copacabana as it is on a peninsular that has its base in Peru. You can go through Peru, or get a ferry from the other side which is Bolivia. Obviously we wanted to arrive from the Bolivian side as we didn't want to do all the paperwork twice (once in, once out).

The scenery changed as we got nearer the lake and we climbed a little again into scenery not unlike that of Scotland (there’s a lot of it about !)

Adobe houses before the Lake

The first views of the lake were a surprise as it wasn't really what we expected, whatever that was. It was deep blue and the surrounding landscape was fairly flat at first.

Then there were some nice rolling hills and all the signs that there was much more abundant water here, more small fields and more people.

Abundant farming by shore of Lake Titicaca

We pulled into a restaurant that Oscar knew and set about a very good meal of trout in various guises, all of which excellent and good portions. First place where the meals were priced in dollars. Gave everyone a chance to talk and get to know each other, or catch up again.

We left the lunch spot and it was only a little way to (San Pedra de) Tiquina for the crossing. The first sight of the 'ferries' was a little interesting. Basically barges with small outboard motors. Not narrow boat barges, but big flat rectangular low lying barges more akin to the sorts used on European rivers. There were coaches being ferried across at dubious looking angles and it all looked a bit hairy.

Oscar and Elizabeth had to say their goodbyes at this point and we and they were sorry to be parting. We hadn't been together too long but we had enjoyed good company in that short period.

We had to wait for some more traffic before we could cross, but then another competitor stole our business and said we could go now so we went round the corner to another loading point (to the disappointment of the guy waiting to take us - but that's commerce for you.)

As mentioned the barges are rather rustic, basically two wheel tracks of planks above cross braces and little else. Martin and I had to ride up ramps onto the barge and stop on the wheel tracks. Our bike wouldn't go onto its centre stand on the uneven planks so I sat astride it for the crossing. Never an enjoyable procedure. The barges are pushed away with poles, like punting, before the outboard could be started and we turned and set off with me of course backwards. They are roll on, roll on, i.e., you don't ride off the other end. That meant reversing off, or somehow turning. Fortunately the crossing was calm and at the other end some spare planks were utilized to allow me to precariously turn the bike around, and precariously it was too.

Safely back on dry land, having paid the princely sum of 10 Bolivian for the bike and 1 each for us, so under a quid; we only had to ride 38kms to our destination.

As we were crossing we could see out to the open lake which is vast, far more like the sea, now as we climbed up into the hills we were treated to more of that excellent view. The land has been heavily tilled in the past to create myriad small fields on the hillsides, or narrow terraces were the sides were to steep. Many of these fields were still in use with barley, potatoes and other crops growing.

The scenery was quite stunning and it wasn't long before we were upon Copacabana. It's only a small place, and sits at about 3800m on the shore of the lake. There are many hostels and hotels to choose from, and as we're out of season now we could afford to be picky and bargain. As Claudia is local we sent her to check. The first place we tried we decide to stay as just over £10 a room. Lovely lake views, private bathrooms with hot water and breakfast, no point saving a couple of quid and going down-market. Quite palatial, and only the four of us in it as far as we could see. It's the same place that the owner of our hotel in La Paz had recommended. To be honest, it still surprises us that we can find places like this to stay, and afford it, in the UK they would be well beyond our price range, and it's nice to have a bit of the highlife.

It had been damn warm riding across the last 38kms and it was quite surprising as it has a reputation for being cool here, and cold on a night.

We sorted ourselves out and went for a beer and ice cream unfortunately time was against us, well, slow service was more the problem, so the ice creams came out just as the sun set and it got damn chilly. We had chufly's instead of beer, that being the name for a Sungani mixer.

Back to rooms for warmer clothes before out for dinner. The sun set about 7pm and boy did it sink quickly ! Warmer clothes on, it was into the very sedate streets to find food. It probably gets busy in holiday season, but now is very quite. Found a very reasonable place to eat and on the way back admired yet another wonderful stellar display as the sky is so clear up here.

Wednesday 8th March 2006

Cocacabana (Lake Titicaca)

0 kms

Copacabana is a small place with little to do, but an ideal opportunity to take it easy once again. We have to pinch ourselves sometimes when we think we are actually in these places. Titicaca is not anything like we expected I think, but no loss anyway. There are many mystical associations with the lake and the birth of mankind, and many people still hold the lake in high esteem. So though it could be like a beach resort, it's not really that sort of thing. You can ride on the lake, but that's about it really. There are islands of the sun and moon, but they are quite a way away and take a long time to get too. We didn't fancy an all day trip as start too early in morning. The guidebooks all say half day trips are not worth doing, but we decided to take one anyway (they were right!)

The boats here are so slow as to take 4 hours for a round journey leaving only one hour on the island, in that time you have to shimmy up the 'Inca' steps and try to find something interesting before you have to return to the boat.

All four of us took the trip, but really it was, as the books said, a waste of time. Relaxing waste of time though! Not sure all this mystical historical stuff is us anyway. Certainly appeals to many though as the town has a large resident population of what can only be called hippies. Means there are some cool hangouts though and we had a great 'sundowner' in one of them. Actually a Brazilian spirit mixed with lots of limes and sugar and ice, and fair powerful!

After an excellent meal at another spot, the local fish Pejerrey in an excellent sauce we returned to our bar of choice for some more of the same. It went all very like the Fast Show’s "Jazz Club...nice" as a jamming session was going on and with the interior seating consisting of scatter cushions on the floor it soon lead to us having just one drink too many for the altitude but having an excellent evening. Great to share some time with Martin and Claudia and catch up.

Returning to out Italianate mansion hotel we discovered the gates were locked and there was no-one around. It was only just gone 12 which wasn't unreasonable, but the night porter had buggered off along with everyone else. I think we were the only people in the whole place, but even so, at a 3 star hotel you expect someone to be on duty at 12 o'clock. Nought for it, Martin leapt over the wall and let us in. Then how to get our keys? Luckily the office doors wedged open and we were able to extract them. Note the best advert for security, and during the whole procedure no one appeared to ask what we were up to. Oh well, an interesting end to the day!

Thursday 9th March 2006

Cocacabana - Puno, Peru (Lake Titicaca)

194 kms

A very lazy start to the day as only a short distance - but another country and therefore two border formalities to contend with.

Said our goodbyes to Martin and Claudia, it's not impossible we'll see Martin & Alan yet if his clutch does get fixed. Alan’s been grounded in La Paz for two weeks waiting for Fed Ex to deliver the parts he was promised in two days.

It had looked a bit black before we left, but it came to nothing and we were fine. It's quite cool though, probably a combination of the large expanse of water, and the altitude. After the small matter of just two flights of steps I can honestly say I know how I'll feel aged 70 or 80 !

It was a very brief ride to the border, all of 8 kms. I was expecting quite a bit of grief here, but then I had at many borders before. There was no problem with oiks hassling us, or even 'friends' offering to help. I expect this at some point, but yet to encounter it. The Bolivian formalities were in effect little more than that. The Aduana explained he was keeping my temporary import, but of course I knew this, but nice of him to explain. The passports were stamped out and we were free to go within 15 minutes. I never mentioned previously, but as we entered Copacabana we had to register, and pay a vehicle entrance fee (legit as a proper receipt given, and Claudia had queried it - I guess due to nearness of Peru) and the guy there was hopeless beyond belief. At times between Argentina and Chile the personnel were quite useless, but this poor guy took the biscuit. He couldn't spell 'BMW' even with Claudia’s help (she's Bolivian remember) and he never grasped the fact four people were on two bikes, put us all on ours! Still, he was completely harmless and quite the way I like my officials!

Today was our 'day of bikes'. More motorcycles than we've seen in months, and all at this border! First were a Canadian couple, Father and Daughter which made a nice change. Jan and his daughter were coming into Bolivia and mentioned the 'departure fee' he had been unable to avoid leaving Peru, that didn't sound too great for us. His daughter had only recently passed her test, and here they were both going down to Ushuaia on Kawasaki KLR650s, great!

We exchanged our Bolivian cash for Peruvian Sols in the usual manner with a traditional lady and her calculator and bundles of notes. Yet again we weren't ripped off either.

We spent some time chatting, to the point the guy on the barrier forgot we had done all the formalities to leave, but we were soon off.

We approached the Peruvian side with some trepidation as we've heard one or two tales, to say the least, of corruption, and there are many general warnings for the country as a whole from a security and safety perspective. You can't always be sure of these warnings, we often ignore them as off the beaten track they don't apply. The problem is, we are well and truly on the Gringo Trail now. We won't have time for the little places we normally frequent as it will be Puno, Cuzco, Nazca and return. The same route all the back-packers and tour groups will be taking.

We can't complain as we are about to do the same things tourists in Britain for a week would be doing, Stratford, London, Cambridge, York and home. Sadly we don't have the time to do this our way.

As we approached Peru’s border we met three more bikers! All Peruvian, and to be honest though they gave us a great welcome and insisted on lots of hand shaking and photographs I had hardly any idea what they were saying to us, so much for 5 months of language practice eh!

Anyway, the first office was passports and that went reasonably well, he actually wanted to see Bev, second time in all the borders we have crossed, and remarkably his none existent English appeared at the same time she did !

Next was the temporary import, the more difficult part, and the one open to more abuse I’d say. As with entering Bolivia though I was greeted with a warm welcome and a smiling face. Being a cynic I am always wary of this, but as previously, the welcome was as genuine as it seemed.

The procedure was simple and it's getting second nature now. All the paperwork was formalised without problem and we were free to go!

Until! The next barrier that I thought we'd sail through at same time was blocked by another local policeman who asked me to come in for more paperwork. This seemed a bit odd to me and an obvious attempt for extortion. In fact I don't think I was far short of the mark as he filled our details in on a scrap of unofficial paper, though it did contain the other biker’s details too.

Anyway, the guy fairly labored the detail filling and I just knew at some point money would come into it and so was ready and waiting with my 'I'm thick and foreign' routine. It does work quite well generally.

Finally after much matey chat, where I slowly became more think and unable to comprehend he moved to the 'I collect foreign money' routine. By this stage I was a near vegetable and so it wasn't long before he lost interest and wished us good vacation. Close call that one I think. The final challenge will be leaving Peru, that's were they have you by the short and curlies, watch this space!

So, that was it, we were in Peru. It's always nice leaving the border with the bike as folk are going through the customs from buses. You can see the Europeans look so surprised at the GB plate.

As ever, the few kms of distance lead to a huge change in housing and general demeanor. Peru looked somehow poorer, even though things cost more than Bolivia. If anything Peru looks less complete than anywhere else we've been, and I can assure you there have been plenty of poor looking buildings and the like on this trip so far. Still, it was nice to return to a place were people smiled and waved again as we passed. At one point a team of road workers flagged us down simply to ask where we were from and then shake our hands and wish us the best!

Talking of which, a large portion of the road was made up of poorly laid tarmac patches leading to far from the best riding conditions, bloody awful in fact - first once for an age.

We made an easy journey to Puno which was to be our stopover. It's quite a large place, and not particularly pleasant as you approach it. Points of interest were the number of smaller motorcycles around and the tricycle rickshaws, of which there were many.

On stopping to enquire of the book where was worth trying for accommodation we were approached, as we will be frequently now I guess, buy a 'helper'. Now don't mind sometimes having someone assist you getting a hotel, but sometimes 's a pain, we'd rather do it ourselves. Anyway this guy explained how the places we were interested in were expensive - surprise - and he knew somewhere better. Anyway, after a while we were free to do our own thing again.

Another point of interest some became clear. In Peru they not only have traffic lights, but also policemen and women directing the traffic from hidden boxes. I say hidden as we never saw the first one, but they certainly saw us!

We had turned illegally, having not spotted the hidden hand waiving policemen on the other side of the corner and his whistle blowing colleague collared us. I guessed what was wrong, but as the guy seemed to be hell bent on booking us I thought it was time for the stupid foreigner turn again. Using this with a slow repetitive apology seemed to work and he gave up and handed us to his senior, to whom I played the most terribly sorry I'm stupid' card which again luckily cleared us and we were free to go, even getting some directions thrown in free! Some people would say I could play the stupid card easily, but believe you me it's a tricky one !

We found the hotel of choice, but it was way too costly at $45 a night. Bloody sick of prices quoted in dollars already. How can it be a richer country if it doesn't even quote its own bloody currency?

Some negotiation later we were down to $25 which although better is more than we'd like to pay, don't mind roughing it a bit generally, but as the security has got more of an issue, we'll accept more cost. Safe parking is the biggest issue, along with general room security.

The bike would live in the back of the lobby so that was a deal done, only had to get the bloody thing in. A high kerb, a tall threshold, a polished floor and some magic carpets and we were in, just some sofas to move and a few plant pots to carefully avoid. The bike was in better comfort than we have been previously!

Tea gave us the opportunity for Coy (Guinea Pig), but Bev opted for the local trout and I had my first bit of Alpaca. No, not the wool, the meat, very nice too. Like Kangaroo and ostrich it has little cholesterol.

5th Mar 2006 - Coroico, La Paz, Tiwanaku.

90 kms by bike, 120 kms by car

We had made plans to meet Oscar and Elizabeth in La Paz today and stay there with them so had to be up bright and early to get back up the fabled road.

We’d arranged to have breakfast early, 7.30; they start normally at 8, in order to get away briskly. Breakfast wasn't quite sharpish enough so we never got to leave 'til 8.30.

Got caught by one of those little things you can so easily not realise on the bill too. Our breakfast was included in the room, but when they asked if we wanted eggs, and how cooked, that wasn't included, and was an extra. Bit sneaky in my book, but put it down to experience (at 50p odd extra eh!).

The great advantage of being up and out early was that the road was quite clear, not in a traffic sense, but a weather one. We were going to get the views over the edge today!

There was still traffic moving up the road, but not too much. The first half is lower down and very dusty, barring three stream crossings that is! It was certainly nicer going up as we were on the inside of the hill, i.e. left, and that felt a lot less virtiguous than the 'correct' side.

Then we came upon a rock fall!

This was still where the road was quite spacious, but the drop off was still 70 or 80 degrees and we weren't for going any nearer the edge than necessary thank you! It wouldn't have been an issue excepting that obviously the rock fall was on the inside edge, and many of the rocks were of a substantial size and scattered across the remaining width without there being bike width gaps. Hmmm...what to do ! There seemed no option but to clear a path through. Only problem was the rocks in way were a goodly size, and not nice round boulders either. That was enough of an issue, but, there was also the fact that the rockslide was not dormant, there were still various size boulders and mud and stones toppling down to add to the already dangerous piles.

Well, there was no real way around it, the rocks would have to be cleared, and there was only one man available!

With Bev keeping a weather eye on the slope I had to get into the danger zone and start trying to shift a couple of knee high rocks off the road. Only one place for them (apologies down below) and so I struggled to roll the none-rounded rocks away before their mates decided to join in and have a pop at me. It didn't take long, wasn't easy, but just had to be done. Occasional slides of smaller stones occurred, but none more significant while I was there luckily. One large one had joined the others just before I started which was warning enough as far as I was concerned.

Anyway, job done I straddled the bike and rode through as briskly as I dared incase of a further slide. I was as concerned at hitting the rocks still there as anything as they wouldn't have given an inch...but my legs or the cylinders or panniers certainly would have!

So that excitement over, we were once again on our way. The weather was superb with virtually no mist or low cloud so the views of the road were brilliant. The section where the main waterfalls either run onto the road, or past it due to the overhang were much better photographed than on our descent. On the descent the camera had kept misting up due to the difference in temperature from 4700m to lower jungle like conditions so it was nice to get some good shots. I guess the local’s call this section the 'car wash' or similar as one particular waterfall is bang on the line of travel. On the way down we had gone straight through it, but this time managed to get around the worst of it.

Just after this section is one of the most famously photographed sections were the road cuts through a turn and is three quarters cut into the hillside with vegetation hanging down. Obviously what you want at that moment is a bloody big old orange truck to come round the corner, and luckily one obliged.

As we were paused a stunningly beautiful humming bird came close by feeding off the flowers of a bush. It was green, purple and gold metallic and quite the best one we've seen to date. There were many parrots around too and some blue birds with yellow breast and black heads.

We continued upwards stopping only to admire (yes really) the horrendous drop offs and wider views. The other advantage of leaving early meant we beat the rush on the road...yes, there is one! Unconventional, but widely known. The mountain bike companies that offer to take folks to the top so they can virtually freewheel all the way down (shame about the 12kms steep uphill they get right at the end to get a pool and a beer, I feel so sorry for them, not!) As we neared the top there were groups coming down, generally very well managed by the outriders with them. There were folk who looked to be having the time of their lives, and folk who plainly weren't enjoying it at all, takes all sorts!

There was other traffic on the road, but it is generally light, and mainly locals who know both the roads, and the risks, so aren't stupid.

I slightly regret having not come one way on the new road (not that it's finished yet) just to see the engineering involved as it's been a fairly mammoth task with huge cuttings and tunnels. Must be quite a job.

La Cumbre was breathless as ever, but very clear and picturesque and we were soon descending once again into the big city itself. There was more traffic than I'd have expected for a Sunday so we were late ringing Oscar but still it had only taken 3 hrs to get across.

Oscar came to meet us, but first we were greeted by one of his biking friends Gonzalez on I think an older Honda XL250. We rode behind them to Oscar's place, which was right down the back of La Paz in a nice quiet spot. Met up again with Elizabeth, and Oscar's daughter Andrea (hope the spelling is right).

Having sorted out some of our gear and changed we were ready for the off as we were going by car to see the pre-Columbian (that's the society that is well pre-Inca, and similar to our bronze Age I think) site of Tiwanaku. (Tihuanaco)

Gonzalez had to go elsewhere so the 5 of us got into Oscar's 4x4 and set out. Oscar knows La Paz very well, and we were soon taking a variety of back roads out of town. La Paz as mentioned sits in a huge crater and a few of the roads are ridiculously steep, especially when cobbled, or unsurfaced.

The site is about 70-odd kms west of the city and as we drove across we encountered the sort of weather we wouldn't want on the bike. Very heavy squalls that lead into hail showers that reduced visibility immensely.

Fortunately when we arrived it was beginning to ease and we had a great chicken picnic before going into the museum and site. There is the usual Gringo price which bears no relation to the local price, ours being 80 or over £5 each, lot of money for a country like Bolivia, at least locals pay only 20% of that price though.

I won't give a history lesson on the place, but I was quite surprised I'd not heard of it before as it is a very major archeological site, though admittedly not as great as it could be. There was a whole community living around the site and there were many temples with huge monolithic carved portals and doorways and statues relating variously to the sun and moon etc.

Tiwanaku statue

Some of the carving is very elaborate, and most of these pieces are now undercover in the museum though one or two are still in situ outside. The level of craftsmanship is amazing, even just on the blocks and drainage channels.

Temple (of the sun?)

As we left the sight we drove towards the village were obviously something was going on. It turned out to be the end of a carnival or fiesta. Nothing quite prepares you for the sight of a whole town in party mode and the amazing sounds of the slightly out of tune brass bands and the amazingly decorative outfits of the dancers.

We were I guess a little apprehensive about wading in taking photos and the like, there not being any western faces there that we could see. We needn't have worried of course, the natives were friendly. Being in the company of Oscar, Elizabeth and Andrea certainly helped too as Oscar grabbed Bev and waded into the square of dancers !

Bev and Oscar dancing

The outfits these guys, and I say guys as they in the main wear the really fancy suits, have are something else, they're beyond fancy. Strange things go on as they seem to get into the character. Many are feline, tigers and cats and the like, and they actually speak in high-pitched exaggerated voices, very odd. The women’s outfits are also beautiful, but the men are the peacocks for sure. Photos are the only way to do the dancers justice.

If I thought I was getting away with it I was wrong, as the dancers left the square and started the procession around the outside I was grabbed by Elizabeth and forced to use my best two left feet to their worse ability. Everything was good-natured, and you would routinely be grabbed by men or women and dragged off to make a fool of yourself in the dance procession. Fair exchange for some great pictures and memories of something quite special.

Oscar was kind enough to offer us his spare room and we took up the kind offer so we could see more of the city we've now grown to see in a different light and are certainly enjoying - maybe we’re getting used to the altitude!

Monday 6th March 2006

La Paz and around

40 kms by car

Got a good nights kip and had breakfast with Elizabeth. Oscar returned a bit later and we all went out for a drive south of the city out towards the Valle de Luna. The landscape is impressive enough hereabout without going to the actual valley. It is dry and the surrounding ground is steep and generally pinnacles of mudstone weathered into sharks fins and points to create quite an abstract backdrop.

Out of town are newly developing areas of quite impressive sized houses built on plots in various grand styles. Obviously were the new rich are building to be just outside the city itself, but very close for commuting. It's much warmer down there than in the city.

We returned and made our own plans for the afternoon as Oscar and Elizabeth had other business. We walked back up to the area of Calla 21 which is the more affluent neighborhood in search of some small shopping items and to get yet more CDs burnt and to Internet. The card reader we have has a problem lead and is not working now, so the only way we can get photos back home is by burning CDs and then passing on the pics by using the CDs in internet cafes. A pain, but with a CD costing a quid it's not to much of an inconvenience money wise, just time delay wise.

It was a long uphill trudge to get there, but we found all the facilities we wanted - barring a new card reader - and also treated ourselves to a fairly spectacular ice-cream each, Bev's a Rusa with a startling 48 cherries, ice cream and cream and Vodka, and mine Irish with a stack of ice cream Dulce con Leche and Whisky. A very nice treat when the items were actually bigger and better than the impressive pics on the menu, marvelous, and only £1.50.

2nd Mar 2006 - La Paz - Coroico

100 kms

The optional Carettera del Muerte

We decided to split La Paz and head out into the country for the weekend before moving onwards to Lake Titicaca.

The skies were grey and there was moisture in the air, looked like we'd be ridding in the wet for the first time since I don't know when, seriously, it's been an age since we've had rain in any amount never mind heavy. We'd guessed the thunder storm we had so narrowly missed last night on the way back from dinner would have cleared the air, nope! Mentioning food I have to say last nights meal at Angelo Colonial was a belter. First time for months we've been served food with proper cooked vegetables and served in a manner you’d expect at a posh restaurant back home- never expected to get that anywhere here. Candle lit in a great atmospheric setting with locals as well as tourists eating. Really excellent food and at prices so easily afforded. We knew there was a storm brewing and got back to base with literally minutes to spare before the storm broke in serious manner. Anyway, today!...

We had one other fellow guest on our floor last night (not literally our floor of course) but other than that we've had the place generally to ourselves. At £4 for the room a night it was pretty marvelous. As usual the room was never cleaned so bedding the same the whole stay, but the biggest surprise was that it was so quiet. Best nights kip I've had (annoyingly light sleeper) for an age. So silent for a near central location, helped I'm sure by the lack of guests. The owner was a nice guy to and gave us a recommendation for Titicaca.

By the time we left it wasn't raining and in fact looked fine, but very grey. As it was cold in the grey we had all our liners in and it was quite comfortable riding out of town towards the Yungas. Well, we would have been riding towards the Yungas if I had of studied the city map rather than the country map. We left the centre fairly easily and wheezed up the toll road (bikes free) out of town. Trying to find the way we had all sorts of fun wrestling with the taxi minibuses and larger buses, you can't give an inch, and neither do they! It's a battle out there and no corner can be given. Luckily it’s all at slow speed and so not to dangerous.

We passed a big parade; schools in the main but in many varied uniforms and outfits, what it was all about we have no idea. A short while after I realised we were on the right road, but the wrong side of La Paz for our destination! That’s when we realised we should have gone right from centre rather than left and up and out. We now know the way to Titicaca though!

So we had to return, luckily La Paz is not too bad a city and not madly congested so we'd only lost an hour. It was rather busy though as I asked a policeman the way, blocking the traffic with no ill effect. It was obvious we needed to u turn, but due to the stationary nature of the road I could only see us doing it as soon as possible, and directly in front of lots of police were it was clearly indicated you couldn't, oh well.

I turned and two police men looked, one sternly, I gave an exaggerated look of sorry and he frowned and then smiled and waived us on. So what's all this idea that we have that we'll be ripped off by the police over her then?

Congress building and flag

Re-entering La Paz it was fairly effortless to use the city map to get to the right place. We wound up and up and up until the suburbs started to thin, and the bike wheezed again and we new we were about 4000m+.

There was a control point which was no issue then a toll booth where we had to pay (0.55 Bol, less than 4p). A funny thing happened, a face popped up and wished us good day and stretched an arm out to shake hands - he's been on the toll at Patatacama and recognised us. Wished us well and waived us off. Lovely people!

As we left La Paz this morning we had that schizophrenic feeling we have had since we arrived, where this time we were sad to be leaving the city, having partially come to accept it's ways and slowly grown to like it - there's no pleasing us is there. Maybe we can blame the altitude?

Anyway, leaving the suburbs we were now climbing high into the surrounding hills and then mountains. For all the world it was like a big scale version of a Lake District pass, very similar if not much larger. There were even a few guys mining slate from an exposed section next to the road, very manually. Honister pass?

La Cumbre sits at 4725m and our three days at 3700 in La Paz had helped, but the bike didn't feel any different, for it was still a struggle. Still, we were still faster than the buses and trucks so fine.

At the top the view was restricted heavily by cloud, but the mountains that stuck jaggedly through were enormous and impressive with fresh snow gilding.

We pulled up by the Christ monument and there was a local family in their truck and we had the usual basic conversation and they were in awe of our travels, and the fact the bike was 1000cc. A lady - I assume part of the family - was carrying out a ritual on the ground that we assumed was for some form of luck on the road and we both hoped that wouldn't be necessary for us!

I'd struggled when reading the guide book to figure out whether we could get to Coroico without using the infamous 'road of death' and thought we could but still wasn't sure. The Hotel owner said we could and to take directions at controls, and Martin and Alan said we should be able to too. We had you will remember decided it was too dodgy for us two up and fully loaded.

The descent from the top of La Cumbre is on very good (well, few potholes) tarmac and is impressive with the mountain architecture that surrounds it, jagged peaks and hanging snow fields with the distant green valley floor well below. Cloud was wafting all around to add to the general ambience.

A further check, where our passports were checked but nothing else and we were motioned past the other vehicles with the cautionary warning of 'slow'.

I forgot to check the route, but guessed it would be signed, or obvious once we got further down, which was the good and bad road. As it was we needed have worried. A few kilometres on we met Oscar.

Oscar is a Bolivian biker on a NR250 Honda and had pulled in besides us to make sure we were OK. He spoke perfect English and was obviously a lovely guy. I explained about our concerns and that we wanted to take the 'new' (unfinished) road to Coroico.

Our friend Oscar on the La Cumbre pass - All following 'The road of Death'

He said we could, but he'd recommend the old road for descent as it was much nicer! Well, we guessed with a local guide we should at least have someone to report us missing and so went along.

It's quite obvious where the new road starts, but less obvious that at the same point the old road cuts off; I don't remember any signs at all.

The initial descent is on broad fairly well surfaced wide road (totally unsurfaced by the way, and apparently built by POWs 60 years ago). It soon starts to narrow though, and starts to follow its true path on the hillside precariously.

As the cloud zone is at about the same level as the road for a long length of the initial descent there is actually little in the way of dramatic views, and we got it in fairly good weather according to Oscar, often it can be denser.

There were one or two points where the drop off the side was very sharp, almost vertical, and there was very definitely no sign of a bottom, the drop offs are very serious indeed. (a couple were literally vertical for hundreds of metres with no barrier) The road itself is no worse than many we've been on, just the narrowness, and twistyness with regular blind bends, and fact its two way that makes it dangerous

To make things safer the descending traffic drives on the 'wrong' side, i.e. the outside edge, the left like driving at home, so ascending vehicles can continue whilst you perch on the edge to let them past...nice !

Typical truck, typical width, don’t typically want to meet!

To be quite honest there are some hairy points on the route, but it isn't the worst ride we've undertaken, the problem is you would get no second chance at all in some places for an error.

No second chances at edge (not worst drop off)

In places it is very slimy and wet, and in others it is a bit chossy and loose, but generally - and I say generally - those points aren't at the narrowest points.

Were it does become an issue is if you're not watching the road, I'm not joking, this is not a place to admire the view unless stationary.

There are vehicles going down, which you can either overtake, or they let you past, and there most certainly are vehicles coming up, you remember on the inside where we'd like to be! The vehicles range from cars (rare) to minibuses (common) to trucks and even proper coach buses! And you will occasionally meet one where you least want to.

Coach on road - tight!

We came round one bend to find a large minibus coming up and had nowhere to go. He stopped, we stopped, and he reversed a few feet so we could squeeze by. It's one thing squeezing through a tight space with the panniers, but entirely different when it's a bus one side, and thin air the other, most interesting experience.

In the middle section there are some cuts that have overhanging vegetation where it seems very narrow and three-quarter tunnel like. There are also many waterfalls that stream over the edge, with the bike you can generally go on the inside and avoid them, but there is one particular one, quite a long drop, that we had to go through as it was were the 'road' was best. Absolutely bloody soaking !

Waterfalls onto, and over road

As you descend you also get a total temperature change as you are heading more to temperate rainforest type temps and vegetation. Comes as a surprise to see huge ferns reappearing so soon after snow, and then so many insects as you slowly start to get hot, some magnificent butterflies like the Blue Morphos that we saw up at Iguazu falls.

We stopped a couple of times at good viewing spots, but generally there just isn't the room to stop and admire the generally pretty scary drops. There was a monument in Hebrew that was from where some Israelis had asked the bus driver to reverse to go under a waterfall again, but they went off the road instead!

Further down were a few river crossings and then into dusty conditions just to plaster the bike and ourselves totally. The last 12kms to the town are the only uphill and on a cobbled road that was interesting enough in itself.

Finally reaching Coroico we were well warm, and Oscar met his girlfriend Elizabeth who had come on the bus. They insisted we have lunch with them which we did and then as they were staying the night we all booked into the same place, Gloria, which sits in a prime location with panoramic views almost beyond belief. This town clings to the hillside and the approach to the hotel (there is a safer one) was down a ridiculously steep cobbled track that Bev insisted on getting off for. It was more concerning than the road here.

In all honestly, the road was not as dangerous as we expected at all. Provided you pay full attention, are careful with positioning and oncoming vehicles, it's not too hazardous for a motorcycle at all, far more likely to fall over, than fall off. It is not a route for fear of heights, but really the danger - and where it gets it's infamy from - is for 4 or more wheel vehicles. I'm not sure I'd want to take a coach to here! But a bike, no problem.

Still sounds good to say you've ridden it though eh?!

Friday 3rd March 2006

Coroico

25 kms

Well the views off the balcony were something else again this morning with the cloud boiling up from the distant valley floor and creating initially a temperature inversion before they rose higher and we were ourselves in the same cloud.

View from hotel balcony

Breakfast was excellent and served in their panoramic room which was certainly a true description. The wall of cloud would occasionally part like theatre curtains to allow glimpses of the vast green mountainscape beyond.

Oscar and Elizabeth as true hosts had a guess altered their plans to accommodate us and suggested we should take the bikes on a run to the river (far below) to bathe there, sounded good.

We were able to ride out without our lids and in light clothing as the roads are but tracks and the gear wouldn't protect so much, and if you went over the edge it would make not a jot of difference!

We rode out through the town and up some tracks, or backstreets as there were hostels etc up there, to a view point that gave great perspective to the village and the hotel we were staying in.

Then it was out of town a way and a seven kilometre descent for the river. This road was narrower than the previous days, and was certainly as twisty, the drop offs were not as severe, but what’s the difference between 150m and 900m if you go over the edge....exactly, not much chance with either!

The blessing of course was the lack of traffic. A jeep had been down and up, but that was it apart from the odd pedestrian, even those rare.

The road (hell it wasn't really a road, a track) was generally pretty good, just odd slimy bits and the worst the steep bits with newly added hardly compacted rock, few bottom twitching moments, and as we were lidless, I could hear Bev's breaths shortening. At least I had something to hold onto, Bev was trying to take pictures and the combined effect must have been a little disconcerting at times I'm sure.

It's still a surprise after the barren expanse of N Chile to be once again amongst so much vegetation, especially, as lush as now. All those familiar exotics from back home just rambling through the verge, banana plants growing wild and butterflies that could be confused for birds floating past.

It was damn warm too, even without all our clobber on.

Arriving at the end of the track (Vagante river pools) we had the place to ourselves barring a local guy who was barrowing slate he had hewed himself up and down the narrowest of tricky paths. Even here after all that descent we were still 1200m above sea.

There was a dramatic gorge where the river tore through and further up the area for swimming (or more lounging I guess). Unfortunately the river had previously been dammed a little to create a pool, but recent storms (linking back to the one we saw the results of on Atacama perhaps) had washed it away and there was no safe bathing place left.

As it is almost tropical here; there were an abundance of 'biting things' which is unwelcome. mosquito's (not malarial thank goodness) and little things that look like fruit flies but have a mouth bigger than there head you'd guess from the pain of their bite. The relative variety of wildlife can only be accompanied by a wealth of big bugs too. Last night the lights outside attracted everything from stick insects to huge moths and other bugs that defy description.

We had to return without our bathing, and obviously back up the entire track again. Always seems easier on the up, even though there was some light rain to contend with.

Back in town we went for lunch and once again got stuffed for a remarkably good price.

A return to the hotel for Elizabeth and Oscar to prepare to leave, she again by coach, and he by bike, watching him gear up we weren't too envious as the heat made it an unpleasant task. We will meet again at his in La Paz tomorrow and stay there and go out for the day. What can you say, a very lovely couple and it has already been great to spend some time together, and we will welcome the opportunity for more. Nothing beats local knowledge when it comes to seeing a place. There is no way we'd have found the track to the river without them, and I'm sure the same will be true of La Paz and surroundings.

Wandering around the town taking photos we were trying to get stickers - very hard everywhere post Argentina. Someone suggested we try tourist office and the guy there couldn't have been more helpful. We chatted (no really) about nature and the area as he had some enormous moths and beetles on the wall and through our interest loaded a CD with pics of the area and for 60p we bought a booklet covering the area. We discovered the national flower and an answer to a query we had in La Paz that was also answered in the Coca museum, the question? Why are there so many afro Caribbean looking people here?

Allies....me no think so, explain that one? Not best symbol for a coach on the road of death

In La Paz I had at first thought they were US tourists, but here there is no mistaking the fact they are local as many of the women wear the scarves and skirts and bowler hats of the locals.

In fact we are very near the area responsible for this phenomenon. Negro slaves were brought from Africa to work in the Coca fields and so have been here and are now incorporated in the local society. We tried asking a couple of the ladies in town but they didn't want their pictures taken. I would always rather ask than just snap. Shame as it is so interesting, the same thing here as in Britain with the Caribbean population becoming (as it should be) part of the national identity. There are a few villages around here were there are large populations of Caribbean stock, but for all the world being Bolivian of course.

Coroico we saw about 7 Jawas - in UK, haven’t seen one for years (good reason!)

This would be another great place to return to and do some treks with a guide (probably best for security by all accounts too). On the way back to the hotel we met the man from the Tourist info who recognised us and immediately pulled out a bag with a huge insect in it. Brightly coloured and about 4" long but with long legs, antennae and some wicked looking mandibles - you would not want a nip off this thing. I guess it was to be gassed and added to the collection on wall, but amazing to see all the same, and nice that he took the time to show us.

Not a bed bug luckily, would sit in your hand, but for those mandibles

27th Feb 2006 - Arica - Patacamaya

418 kms

These entries are written day by day, and I rarely go back and edit a day’s entry, other than to add something I'd forgotten the reason I say this is the marked contrasts you can get between one days entry for a country and the next entry. It's a fairer reflection I guess.

We left having had one too many Pisco's last I think, not ideal for altitude....oops. Northern, northern, northern Chile redeemed itself with the main pass out from Arica to La Paz as the scenery was very impressive. Colours similar to the Agua Negra Pass, but without the range or intensity. The road has been greatly upgraded recently barring some of the initial section. There were fine candelabra cacti, very odd with clusters of a dozen or so shoots at the top of a thick trunk, and only growing in an altitude range of 2,300 to 2,800m. The altitude was soon gained as we headed towards Putre were we stopped briefly to grab something to eat and drink.

Yet again we were to come across some great people when we stopped. There appeared to be no restaurants (there are though) so we went into a little place saying hotdogs and sandwiches outside. The lady was all smiles and could see we were a bit cooled from the fact it's cold up here at 3,500m - the sun shines but the height immediately takes the heat away. We asked if there was any hot food and she said hotdogs so we said yes, then she said along the lines of you'd be better with a hot sandwich. So she promptly made us a ham and cheese roll each in the microwave, and it did the job with a couple of steaming coffees (Nescafe of course though).

She was a diamond, she made another and cut it in half and brought it over for us. She was very chatty even if our language skills were a bit lacking. She introduced her brother in law who was a math’s teacher and spoke some English. Before we left they insisted on pinning a small knitted Bolivian style badge on our jackets for luck. The total cost for the sandwiches and coffees was only £2 too. We do meet some lovely people, and it was all hugs and kisses and pictures before we left.

Leaving Putre we climbed ever higher and entered the Lauca National Park, deemed one of Chiles most picturesque and we wouldn't argue.

There were vicuna everywhere, a few of the large rabbit like gerbil things with huge whiskers that sit on rocks in a daze (bit like Dylan from the Magic Roundabout) and birds aplenty. The reason was as we had got higher we were immediately back into vegetation! Only scrub, and dwarf Lupins and the like, but a welcome return to greenery, must be out of the rain shadow then.

There were sight before Putre too of old pre-Inca forts and all the terracing and walled fields, many still in use. Amazing how productive small pieces of land here can be.

We were really gaining a significant altitude now, and the bike was wheezing and we were too if we did too much. It's no wonder some people find altitude debilitating as the effects even when very minor are odd, I noticed today that my eyes felt like they were bulging slightly for a while. Odd. There were verdant green areas of vegetation that were like huge areas of moss and no wonder there were vicuña everywhere.

The scenery was good too with high snow capped volcanoes and lakes alive with wild birds, ducks, divers, and giant coots. Also some bloody annoying hairy mosquito things. The odd flamingo too, in fluorescent pink, brightest we've seen I think.

We had odd snow falls as we approached Chilean customs and it was cold, we had put our jacket liners back in due to the drop in temperature. We completed the Chilean side fairly easily and continued through the no mans land to the Bolivian side. Taking care to avoid the minefields - yes really!

The Bolivian side was certainly less official looking, but not at all intimidating. First was the bike import, which was easy enough, the guy got me to do the paperwork. Then off to passports and filling in the paperwork sheet you do for each person. Then to the tax man - that's all I could figure out it was, sure not insurance, but who knows, only 60p anyway, so I guess a temp road tax charge. I couldn't pay as we had no Bolivian cash. That was sorted by visiting one of the ladies outside. No Bureau de change, just local bowler hatted ladies squat down with blankets wrapped around and bags of cash. They exchanged Chilean for Bolivian, then exchanged that too Bolivians going to Chile. All quite unconventional, but obviously in order as outside the customs and they pointed me their way. Returning to pay the 10 Bolivianos we were free to go. Everyone had been great and no dodgy dealings; all taken care of in 40 minutes.

Money changing

So we were now in Bolivia, an oft favorite venue of motorcycle travellers. The first thing that struck us was it was quite flat, as all high altitude. The border guard said the post was 4800m but I think he may have been a bit optimistic there. It was also pretty lush, green everywhere. The geology was spectacular and we straight away feel for the landscape - it was stunning.
From seeing the odd Llama to seeing dozens upon dozens at a time is quite a surprise, they really are a Bolivian thing (unless Peru matches it of course). They are wonderful beasts, and come in every colour (OK brown, black, grey, and white) and pattern imaginable. We saw Dalmatians, Friesians, and all one colours, but the favorites are those that look like they have spectacles on, quite comical.

Llamas

We had to cover 200kms before nightfall to stand any chance of accommodation and it was late in the day so we had to move on. The most the bike would pull was 90kph generally and very occasionally 100. It's so bloody high, and with half a tank of 90 octane Bolivian juice progress was not startling

There were people everywhere like you find in India etc. you think there is no one at all, and then a figure appears. There are loads of amazing abodes; mud farmsteads and houses scattered throughout the landscape and everywhere those typical bowler-hatted, multi-skirted women going about their chores.

First road in Bolivia, not warned of terrible condition

They have one hell of a hard life, but simple, and from the outside it looks like everything it isn't - so we won't swap!

The whole light and landscape and peoples combined to create a dazzling impression. It's like no other place we have every been. People appear to be living out here in the sticks in very much the same way they would have in Inca times. The land is so well used, and the field boundaries must be ancient. A welcome change was the absence of rubbish, which through all the other countries has littered the road edge almost everywhere, even in national parks, here there was none (La Paz will make up for that in bucket loads I'm sure) and there were often wafts of herbs and crops growing

There were odd ancient buildings too that were old burial sights, would have loved to explore a bit but we had to get that 200kms in, absolutely nothing else here. It was that nice I even thought of camping, but we had no supplies and it's bitterly cold of an evening here. Maybe another time.

We could see a sizable habitation ahead just as the sun was loosing its strength and the temperature was plummeting. To be honest, we aren't absolutely sure were we are, but think its Patenamaya. It was too small a place to have much choice, but we weren't willing to push on as in the dark it would be deadly here for sure.

There was one hotel that wasn't, but next to it was a hostel type thing with rooms in a building out back. So we have a room, for £3.50, basic, but lots of blankets to make up for lack of heating and to my surprise the shower actually is warm. We ate in the hotel and have a dubious but very large tea but will have to be far more careful here of hygiene standards and definitely be on bottled water. Well, and beer of course, that's clean. The beer here that we had tonight was black and sweet stout like, very similar to Sweetheart Stout for anyone that's tried it. Only 3% but tasty. The labels on the bottles are incredible, definitely the best to date, must take a couple of pics.

The only hope for internet was closed which was a shame as we were hoping to make contact with some friends who are in La Paz at moment and it's too big a city to just bump into each other.

So, it appears our first impressions of Bolivia are good, we'll overlook the obvious hard lives people are having in some areas and the fact there are more kids asking for things here than previous, but we expected that, we'll see how we get on. The scenery has been a surprise definitely, I hope there is more like we had today, or we'll have to return this way and have a closer look.

Tuesday 28th February 2006

Patacamaya - La Paz

104 kms

I know I've said this on more than one occasion, but, what a difference a day makes!

It was a blazing sunny day again, and in the courtyard where we stayed it was roasting, but out on the road it was a bit too cool without a jacket liner in, that damned altitude again!

We had a brief chat with our neighbour from last night, he was Chilean, and a prospector so over here looking for Silver, Gold or Copper deposits worth exploiting. There must be plenty about waiting to be exploited as there was an abundance in the past, but whether it would ever be economically viable on the scale necessary who knows.

A simple breakfast was had in the hotel before leaving, but at least it was dirt cheap.

The road to La Paz was a little less interesting than yesterdays stage, but you got occasional views of the distant Andean peaks poking out of the clouds with their heavily snow laden slopes, they must be big as we were still on a plateau of about 4000m+.

The altitude is a bugger for the bike, it really struggles, nothing that can be done without changing jetting and maybe timing, which frankly I'd rather not mess about with, but it is another thing to consider when riding. Last minute over-taking is not an option! You approach and try and maintain speed and gracefully pass and pull back in. At one point this morning a Toyota Celica came up behind us and I thought I wonder how fast he'll go past. Well, he disappeared out of my rear view mirror and also gracefully passed before pulling away ahead at a very marginal increase in speed. The occasion 4x4 motors past, but generally we are all in the same boat so not too hazardous.

The scenery was no way as good, there wasn't that really rural feel, but you always lose that the nearer you get to large habitations - even in UK. The noticeable change was there were more people, more vehicles, and the rubbish was starting to appear at the roadsides, lots of it the nearer we got to the city.

At first we were surprised as we approached La Paz. We had visions of it being set in a huge amphitheatre. What we saw was a range of snow clad mountains and a flat road with a large spread town either side. Well, of course we weren't looking at La Paz, that's why! We were looking at El Alto, apparently the fastest growing town in South America, and really the suburbs of La Paz.

We realised from a roadside stop our error as there was a large crater to the right of the view.

As we approached through El Alto it was apparent there was a festival going on. We had seen the hotel putting out bunting and had assumed it was for the festival in Oruro, it's a huge multi day fiesta based around the devil and the mines and starts this w/e. In fact - as we are so disconnected - we hadn't realised its Shrove Tuesday, we didn't know that fiesta was now. Anyway, the vehicles we saw with balloons and streamers were not heading for there, they were celebrating now! In La Paz it's a one day fiesta and we guess a holiday as there were lots of people around and a lot of shops were closed in the villages.

The traffic was not too heavy, but mainly buses and minibuses that you had to watch as they swung over without warning when a potential passenger was spotted. The other surprise was the optional use of traffic lights! Do as the locals do is how we play it, and they weren't stopping for the reds unless other traffic was coming. Stopping at the wrong time could lead to a rear end shunt. So I tried to be behind something at any lights and followed with caution their actions. There were many police about, but that made no difference at all. You have to relax into the local styles and patterns of driving, but we didn't get much lead in for this, deep end for sure.

There is a toll road into La Paz, but free for the bike. I think we were lucky with our arrival day being a holiday (we think it is, maybe every day is like this). There was certainly less traffic on the road than we expected. There is a viewpoint just after the toll booth and the view is quite amazing. La Paz really does sit in a crater for three sides and the building cling to dramatic slopes on the sides and spread out through the basin in tightly packed formation. 1.2 million people live here at 3700m altitude, it's quite a mind blowing view it has to be said.

La Paz, big, but compact

We descended along the two lane highway with ease and no significant traffic, being near mid-day I can't believe this is a normal day. We took a while to get any sense of location for the accommodation we were looking for but basically the difference in price between the first we tried and the one we took was $40, and £4...blimey!

First impressions of the city from the bike were that it was so quiet, that it seemed all the people were indigenous, there were a lot of traditional costumes on display and it wasn’t quite what we expected.

After once again overcoming the one way blocks and finding a hotel we were able to unload the bike - took the bags etc off for first time in a while as although the bike was off the road, it wasn't in a courtyard or anything as secure as previously. The owner was very nice though and we were quite surprised to discover the room had a bathroom and hot water, and we got towels and toilet paper and a bar of decent soap for our £4 a night. It's an old colonial building, not exactly spic and span, but good enough, and not too far from centre, but far enough!

Wandering through the city from our base we got a clearer picture of the place. Dirty it certainly is, quite a bit of rubbish, and the smell of stale urine everywhere, takes your breath away as if the altitude wasn't enough! We took a fair while to try to get acclimatised to the layout and the Bolivian way of things, but basically couldn’t figure a thing out. We tried in vain to find a decent restaurant, but couldn't find one. Lots of very dubious looking establishments, but not one that you would want to risk. They are here, we just can't find them. We ended up in a fast food spot that was OK, but not ideal. Many of the places we passed just turned your stomach the smell coming out of them, and we're not fussy.

We discovered why the streets stink of urine when we noticed blokes just stopping in the street and peeing, even in busy streets. Hopefully this is because it is a fiesta and a lot of folk are having a few drinks, quite a lot a bit worse for wear, but not aggressive.

There are lots of street urchins, but to date not been too problematic. Took the wind out of out sails this morning when a few kids would give Bev the finger at the roadside as we passed. The ladies in multi skirts and bowler hats often look a little 'unwashed' and we get the impression they might actually sleep on the streets with their wares.

Apart of the fiesta, one thing people do is wet each other, with buckets, water pistols, or water bombs. They seemed to be generally respectful towards tourists and aimed for like minded souls but got one or two splashes. There were lots of noisy firecrackers too, and the odd band or so, but generally we missed what limited action there was.

So, overall, our impression of La Paz is not so favorable, but we've not been here long, and neither might we be. We don't generally go for large cities, and this is why. We’ll have a day looking at a couple of things of interest and see how we go on.

Wednesday 1st March 2006

La Paz

0 kms

Another day of trying to orientate ourselves this city takes some sussing. We managed to at least find one recommended eating spot, 100% Natural, which does great cheap breakfasts. For a quid we got a natural juice, Muesli and yoghurt and fruit and honey, Whole meal toast with butter and jam, scrabbled eggs, and coffee. Pretty good, and they seem to be pretty hygienic using bottled water and the like. Best breakfast for a long time. We still managed not to find the museum of Coca though which was apparently near by, save that for later.

It obviously was a holiday yesterday as today there is more traffic and there are a few people going around in suits and kids in school uniform. The men still relieve themselves in the street though, so can’t be blamed on drink. The funny thing is, there are actually public toilets here.

We meet a couple of lads, Martin and Alan, at the Viedma meeting way back in December and knew they were in La Paz and finally managed to make contact.

They are riding around the world on GS1150s and came up through the east of Bolivia a few weeks ago, slap bang in the rainy season. They had some truly atrocious conditions, the roads thereabouts not actually really being able to be classified as roads. In the conditions they were washed out and boggy to extreme. They had harder riding than they ever encountered in Africa, to give you some idea. Had a look at their pictures on the web and it looked real bad. They are here as Alan’s bike needs a clutch repair - currently trying to find the parts that have been shipped from England! They have found a great repair shop here though, the details somewhere on Horizons Unlimited if anyone needs them.

It was obvious it was brewing up for a storm here - at least that might take some of the stale urine smells away we hope - so we back tracked to the hotel, just in nick of time. Apparently it's quite normal for afternoon storms, we must have been lucky yesterday. Clearly the wet season hasn't quite finished with here yet. We might not stay so lucky.

La Paz is famed for being hot sunshine, cool in the shade, and cold at night. Certainly everyone local is well wrapped up most of the time. We have been wandering around in shirt, trousers and sandals and quite comfortable, but the locals obviously don't think that's enough. This shower perhaps paints the other side, we'll have our cags and the little brolley with us now I think! The rain was actually mainly pretty large hale, and accompanied by lighting and thunder.

I keep forgetting to mention what the altitude is like here. If we come up the two flights of steps to the landing our room is on we are short of breath and you need a few moments to recompose. In the morning, we had a very quite nights sleep last night which was a pleasant surprise, you get up as normal then realise there is the altitude, it's quite a surprise. Neither of us has suffered headaches or the like, but our skin in drier and you need the water.

There are more people here that approach you for money, but not so far a huge amount. Even in Chile kids would come into restaurants from table to table with outstretched hands which show the marked difference in wealth there. Here there are clearly people with more, and people with less, but the difference is not as marked I think. It's still a surprise that virtually everyone here is indigenous. The only pale faces, are the pale faces, of which there are many here, but generally always congregated in the same backpacker area.

No idea how long the rain will last but I guess it will be time to see a museum or similar, unfortunately the close 12.30 to 15.00 but at least they're open until 7.

We're meeting Martin and Alan in an English style pub tonight so that might be an experience.

If I were honest, well we, as it's how we both feel, we are really not sure we are going to enjoy some of this leg of our journey as the contrast between heavy tourism and crime and poverty is an unhealthy mix. The guidebook warns of all sorts of hazards and dangers, and many of them are in places we want to visit. In the past we have heeded warnings but tried not to let them spoil our fun, but maybe it's a general malaise we are suffering just now.

Although we will live La Paz and as often stated we prefer the sticks, many of the 'big' things to see are in dubious areas and it does take the edge off it. I guess we will judge it as and when, there would be no point in not going to these places. The sad fact is we both, at this precise moment, wish we weren't here, and don't really fancy going to the places we intended. With hindsight, we should have come this way round first, better weather, and the culture shock would be wearing off, rather than on.

Well we found an interesting museum to while away the time, the Coca Museum. It is based on the background and use of both Coca leaf, and the slightly different derivative, Cocaine. The museum is was jointly set up by government department’s rehabilitation centres and other interested parties. It generally sets out I would say to show that Coca leaves are something not to be confused with the more additive and stronger relation and in fact makes a strong case for Coca leaves and their uses. This is understandable as the leaves have an ancient history and the stronger product is in fact quite new. There were lots of interesting facts, a few of which I can remember. Coca Cola originally did have cocaine in it, but I thought the modern day product bore no Coca relation - wrong, Coca Cola still incorporates Coca leaves as part of the flavour. Sigmund Freud was the first person to take cocaine as a drug. Bolivia is not a member of the Cocaine Club - the League of Nations who is allowed to produce cocaine for medical and other uses. It was all rather fascinating, and a small but very well considered display. We had a booklet with English translations for the whole display which helps enormously. On completion we were given a coca leaf cookie to try. Quite herby and not unpleasant, but not enough to ward off the effects of altitude I doubt. I would actually like to try some of the Coca leaf in tea or chewing form, but the opportunity has never really arisen, and besides which we don't really suffer too many side effects of altitude.

We managed to meet Martin and Alan in the 'English Pub' later, true, it was just about all English in there, quite small, and beer in pints (including Guinness and Boddingtons)

As we arrived first we ordered a local 'Bock' unaware that it was 7% - not ideal for altitude. We only found this out when the guys arrived. We had a good evening chatting away about our various travels and challenges and heard about their adventures here as they have had to stay a while as Alan is having work done on his bike. They had taken part in the downhill mountain bike ride that is now world famous as it takes the route of the 'Road of Death' - once considered the most dangerous road in the world. Now it's a major attraction as you are taken by bus to the top at about 4800m and then you descend to 1100m - it's all down hill except for 16kms. The road is so feared as there is one particular section that has drop offs of 900 odd metres - no barrier, slippery unsurfaced road and very narrow. The other thing is, due to the narrowness and severity, you descend on the left (not right as here normally) the reason being you must give way to uphill traffic, which is buses and the like that don't have room to maneuver. It was one route we wanted to ride on the bike, but have decided to err on the side of safety and not bother. Call us wusses if you want, but that's the way it's staying. Martin had also scaled a 6000m peak which sounded very tempting to me indeed, but really it's not the season for it, and our insurance doesn't cover it. Both options are relatively cheap, no, they are cheap, and that's the real benefit on La Paz, access to these kinds of deals.

We soon discovered whether La Paz was safe at night or not as when we went to meet them it was fully dark, but the streets were busy and there was no feeling of danger whatsoever. When we left, near midnight (after a pub curry which was pretty good actually) the streets were pretty empty, just a few folk around, and a few worse for wear folk too. There was no feeling of concern and in fact it felt safer than many a UK street at that time of night.

Couple of things we have noticed further during our stay, there are far fewer dogs here than anywhere else we've been (no jokes about them being eaten please). The litter and piles of rubbish do seem to often disappear between nightfall and morning. And the traditional ladies who sit on the streets selling wears that look like they bed down there for the night, don't - don't know were they go, but they're not there at night. On that subject, there are supermarkets here - if you can find them - but otherwise everything is sold on the street generally by these ladies, and I mean everything. There are a few stalls selling DVDs - you can choose one as they have TV’s plugging into the numerous sockets hanging off the streetlights. We also discovered the style of skirt, or the jaunty angle of the bowler hats tell you whether the women are married or not.

Thursday 2nd March 2006

La Paz

0 kms

I don't know how we can explain our general malaise here, there are so many tour options etc and the like, but we don't really do tours, we make our own which is perhaps the issue. As I've said many times we don't like big cities either, which would explain a lot, and we have perhaps suffered quite a bit of culture shock here. As we are here longer it's more usual what we see, but we still aren't happy here and so I think we must leave. We can see how we feel it we go to say the Yungas which is only 70 or so kms away, and see if we find something else for us to appreciate, or whether we really want to just see the famous tourist sights closer to us here like Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu and then bugger off back to NW Argentina as quick as we reasonably can.

Your average Bolivia crowd

I think it's often the case that when you're travelling your perspectives change. Depending on a lot of factors you can really change emotionally regarding were you are travelling. That's perhaps why our feelings are so up and down here, probably a similar thing as to when we were travelling through N Chile - there we were bored, here it's something else.....it's a strange old game. Travelling on your own must be a lot more difficult, at least there are two of us.

Today we could have blamed it on our slightly thick heads! I was a bit misty, and Bev was more foggy. Drinking at altitude (as we know....but do we learn?) is not a great idea.

Our traditional breakfast helped things and a wander around the stalls helped clear the mist. The stuff on sale is generally what you expect, no end of very good value Alpaca goods and weavings and the like, but they're not really to our taste, although Bev is looking for a nice sweater with a pixie hood, maybe they're Peruvian. The other things on offer are from the sublime to the ridiculous. There is fruit and nuts and various types of potatoes (been very disappointed with not finding loads of tatties on the menu, chips yes, but other spuds no) fossils and figurines and Llama foetuses.

Yes, you read that right! They dry the Llama foetus and I think they're for good luck. There are also dried frogs, Armadillos and birds and other things - quite what for we don't know. Sure no one back home would appreciate one as a gift!

The brown things middle top are llama fetuses - sacrifice for luck/P>

We started our preliminary emailing to arrange return shipping for the bike today too, which is marked step in the trip, and not one you really want to think about, but must be done, and in time.

We had a wander up to Calle Jaen this aftie which has some great old Colonial buildings with wonderful courtyards and houses 4 museums you can enter on a joint ticket, all of 60p. They varied in interest, but the highlights of the collections were the various Fiesta costumes which are down right bizarre, and the Inca gold work.

Police Harleys?...look closer, Chinese 250s!

This afternoons storm was much shorted lived than yesterdays - but much longer than the none existent one we had on arrival so we dodged most of the weather.

Presidential palace guards

We were in the area of the Congress Building and Presidential Palace and it was looking like there was to be some action up there as there were a lot of police, including riot police and SWAT teams. The riot police had a nice touch, their shields had protective blue film still on...helps stop them getting scratched during action! There were some with tear gas and pump action shotguns, sub-machine guns, and some dressed like Ninja turtles with the body armour.

Riot police with protective blue film on shields - wouldn´t want to scratch em would you?

You are a bit hesitant in taking photo’s at such times, but it has to be done. I haven't carried my digi SLR around the streets - though in reality I'm sure it wouldn't be an issue and it's my loss, so all the pics are courtesy of Bevs compact which is more discreet.

Ninja biker riot police

Whatever the presumed possibility of trouble was 'nothing happened' as far as we could see. It might have been interesting to have witnessed some sudden Latino outpouring of emotions, but I think we'd prefer not to be tear gassed today thank you!

24th Feb 2006 - San Pedro de Atacama - Iquique

464 kms

Well San Pedro has been kind to us, just what we needed. Some people find it a desolate dust blown place, but I guess they're mainly backpackers without their own transport. For us it's been a tonic. Completely different to the rest of Chile in most senses. Virtually all single story adobe mud clad buildings and a very predictable weather pattern and lots of interest around for us to venture too and return from. And it has to be said it's nice to find some tourist infrastructure by way of eateries of all types even if the prices are higher than elsewhere....if you could find it out here.

So, once more unto the breach, and onto more endless miles of carriageway with little of interest by the wayside.

We returned to Calama, stopping in route to pour a bottle of tap water on a small shrubbery besides the road in the middle of nowhere we had noticed previously due to the 'please water me' sign. I guess an old shrine, or perhaps someone’s attempt to green the dessert. It's obviously getting water anyway as it's there, and it wouldn't last without assistance.

It was funny seeing a news headline in the UK talking of the south east possibly having hose pipe bans when we were in the driest desert in the world and there was such an abundance of water they can waste it by damping the streets down or watering verges.

The road after Calama, well after Chuquicamata, was in poor state to start and then was monotonous to say the very least. Dead straight, hazy, but still hot with it, and several power lines each side, with only pylons for company, quite abstract.

After a long straight uninteresting leg we joined the Pan Am for a much longer uninteresting stage. If you could ride the bike at 100mph you could get an awful long way along this road, but at 100kph it just drags and drags and drags.

Today’s leg was through nothing, zilch, nada, nought, diddly squat for the vast majority of the ride. It was extreme boredom, especially without any intercom to at least talk between each other. It’s unbelievably boring when riding; I can't image how bad it is as pillion.

The scenery was one of old abandoned Nitrate works from say 100 years ago or so, and their existence must have been extreme to say the least, must have been a god forsaken place, and then you see the iron crosses in their hundreds in fenced cemeteries. Some British, some German, like the fallen from wars.

Half way along we entered what was supposedly a National Park, it was another Salar, but common to others it was not what you would imagine. It wasn't endless white flat salt lakes, but in actual fact a massive expanse of what looked for the entire world like a rough ploughed field back home.

Habitations are few and far between, and when you do come across one it will have little for you. Perhaps petrol, or not, perhaps a posada for meals, or not, and generally just a row of kiosks selling drinks and corner shop supplies. If you want shade, this is your chance; there is literally bugger all in the way of shade anywhere else. There were a few scrubby trees today - the park - but they were set back offering little. You don't appreciate just how much cover there is almost anywhere else in the world we've been.

The extreme boredom was the reason we didn't continue to Arica and ended up in Iquique, we were just so bored we had to stop.

The dune outside Iquique, impressive!

Entering the city is quite surreal as you drop through the first larger more sandy desert scenery that you'd expect of a place like atacama. And once you see the coast you realise you are hundreds of metres up. The road drops down (two lane one way) cut into what looks like a huge sand dune. Far below you can see the large sprawling city at sea level with a couple of two-hundred-or-so-metre high dunes directly behind some of the buildings, very weird. The road that looks like it is going through a dune is actually cut into harder material so I guess only sand covered. Until we stopped I couldn't figure out how a road could survive being cut into what just looked like sand.

The road cut into the side of the mountain above the city, plus dune

We had checked the book and noted one hostel with 'motorcycle parking' so aimed for that. After a while we found it, had changed name recently, and I went in to see about a room. It would be about nine quid which sounded excellent, but it went a bit downhill after that. The parking was actually out front behind the ballastrading which I wouldn't classify as completely secure, and we had to remove the tank bag panniers and rear bag that we normally leave on when secure. After we had taken the room we discovered the next door room was inhabited by the family running the place and they were up most of the night for the door and had lots of young children. In fact we soon discovered the place was more like a homeless hostel than a conventional hostel. Rare we make a poor choice, but I had done on this occasion. Luckily the smell of our socks covered the smells already in the room. Oh for a love hotel now!

It's the impression you get when you arrive that sticks in your head for a place, like first impressions of a person. Fair or unfair, and it's hard to reconcile our feeling past that. We have perhaps had experiences that have coloured our judgment on some places we have stayed.

Unfortunately we could only smell drains when walking around, and we did that thing that does happen occasionally were you walk around a foreign town desperate to find what you want and fail, and end up wasting a lot of time, getting hot and bothered, and occasionally falling out. Then, when you least expect it, you find a gem. We did with the restaurant ‘The Third Eye’ (could translate that one as it had a Buddhist sign). And where was it? Just round the corner from the hostel! We had an excellent meal and wandered back to our pit to try and get some shut eye as we wanted to leave fairly early.

There are some lovely, if forlorn, buildings in the area, dating back to the time of the nitrate barons, beautiful wooden ballastraded building with loads of character and mainly with loads of maintenance required.

Once back in the 'hostel' we had a fair racket to contend with as the kids were running up and down the corridor as it was only 12.30 or so, but we forced our selves to sleep.

As with so many of the hostels here, the rooms had been resized to create three out of one. This is done using chipboard - or plasterboard - and wall paper. It does not create anything like a soundproof construction. This was proved later on when I awoke to one of the kids next door having a nightmare, and then the very athletic and impressive moans & groans from a couple the other side, with occasional headboard banging wall noises that led a certain hilarity to the whole event. Not what you'd call a five star establishment.

As usual in morning there was no sigh of life at all at 8 and we were packed and off before we saw sight nor sound of anyone (we'd paid the night before)

Saturday 25th February 2006

Iquique - Arica

318 kms

As we had no breakfast (and little else) with our 'room' we had to find somewhere before leaving, and it was a return to the garage forecourt to get a 'real' coffee and something to eat. Sad state of affairs, but very easy.

We retraced our steps to The Pan Am, stopping briefly to see the skeleton of a works at Humberstone. You don't see much on these roads, then it's all at your destination! We didn't want to stay so rode on for Arica.

Today was a bit more mixed than previously, but as you'd expect with us being so far north the temperatures were high too. We took a side road a few kms to see the 'Giant of Atacama' and were disappointed. There are many geoglyphs along the road, large figures and symbols made by ancient peoples by moving the top layer of scree from a hillside and placing stones as an outline. The same sort of thing as the Nasca lines, but on hillsides. Sadly 'the giant' didn't life up to expectations, no way as impressive as the Cerne Giant for instance, and in fact surpassed by many other geoglyphs we saw later in the day, many unmarked.

Geogylphs of llamas on hillside

We bumped into a bunch of bikes at the side of the road shortly after, coming from Peru, but mixed nationalities on a three week tour, organised I guess. Had a brief chat before continuing.

The scenery changed into far more (really!) arid desert like scenery as we crossed a couple of immense baked valleys with long ponderous uphills and death defying (or not!) descents. I say or not, because there was evidence of shrines by the roadside and when you stopped to look over the precipitous sloping edges there was sometimes evidence of the totally destroyed wrecks of trucks hundreds of metres further down the slopes. Quite sobering. If you went over on a bike you’d come unstuck, but at least be separate of the vehicle and probably not go too far down, but being in he cab of a truck, or a car, you'd barrel down in a horrendous set of death rolls while the vehicle tore itself apart. Quite sobering when you see a HGV coming up behind you in your mirrors. We’ve had one or two "Duel' type moments (the film where a seemingly driverless truck is hounding a car) and on the sections were they were doing roadwork’s and had a stop section seeing a huge rig coming down behind you was a bit unnerving!

Careful of the road edge please

There were still occasional oases in the valley bottoms, but otherwise absolutely nothing at all.

More geogylphs at side of Pan Am

Approaching Arica we came across a set of huge sculptures on the hillside and rode over for the token pictures with the bike.

Just before Arica, the sculptures

Arriving in Arica at about 4pm we thought we'd go up a class and see if we could get in somewhere first then try to find the Tur Bus depot to pick up the tyre.

The hotel we chose had underground parking and the room even had a bath! No plug or tap though! Having booked in we went out to find the tyre and hoped to get it fitted at the same time, tomorrow being Sunday.

We had great difficulty finding the place as the parcels go to a different place to the bus station, and it was on a huge industrial area. As we were looking a jeep pulled up and a guy said in perfect English "looking for somewhere?" Turned out he was a Kiwi who had been here for 5 years running a hostel. Bev got in the Jeep and I followed to just the right place, lovely guy.

At Tur Bus the fun began. Although people regularly use the buses to transport goods, it was soon apparent they are not quite as efficient as say the post office or couriers. There were piles of cargo everywhere and no one seems to have a system for finding things. It took over half and hour before they found the inner tube and discovered the tyre was at the bus terminal a distance away. We paid our fiver to get the inner tube and were sent off to the bus station were we met a guy with the tyre waiting to close up - lucky, or unlucky compared to the fact it shouldn't have been that difficult.

Having both tyre and tube we wanted to get it fitted if we could. The guy was very helpful and suggested a place near the Carabineros (police). We went, and it was closed. What would you do? Ask a Policeman. We saw a Carabineros rider going in to the station and flagged him down. He was of course a great guy and immediately shook our hands and introduced himself. Through use of some interesting collection of words and gestures he understood our predicament and said follow me! He called his mate (they ride in twos) and we had a great ride through the streets following the pair of them and mimicking their actions when they pulled through places we shouldn't have gone.

Moto amigos

They took us straight to an excellent establishment that proved (after our bad experiences in Osorno) that there were plenty of folk here that knew how to change motorcycle tyres, El Progresso in Arica, 1505 street name not known, are recommended. One of the riders had to return, and we were left with our initial friend. We got the tyre done in no time, and all for one pound fifty (making the Pirelli place in Osorno seem the thieves they were) We paid 2.50 as it was well worth it and our friendly policeman took us back to the centre so we didn't get lost. What a great guy! Obviously we owe Miguel in Santiago a massive thank you for organising us getting the tyre in the first place, it wasn't easy for him either so great he was such a genuine guy.

Three wheels on my BM

It was dark just about as we followed the bike into town and then bid our farewells at some traffic lights before returning to the hotel for a clean up before tea. We used the book to find an excellent seafood restaurant around the corner and had a cracking meal to round the night off.

Sunday 26th February 2006

Arica

0 kms

We had decided to have a further day here to relax after yesterday evening being so packed.

The town has some quite nice old buildings, and for a change we were central and so close to the sights. We walked up the hill overlooking the town and admired some pretty good views and visited the military museum commemorating Chile’s defeat of Peru and taking this area of the country. The display was a bit jumped up and rather one sided and I'd guess a bit embarrassing to Peruvian visitors = after all, it was well over a hundred years ago!

Old building Arica (Peru consulate)

That Eiffel character had been at it again, but this time we were able to see his steel church. It had been brought here from another part of Peru - for Arica was then in Peru, you'd remembered that hadn't you - and put up after a tidal wave had swept through town destroying all the other churches. It's an impressive building, especially when made of steel. It was closed, but due to some open windows and creative use of a digital camera we saw the inside which was also impressive. He got around this guy as we saw one of his bridges in Porto, Portugal, a few years ago too.

Eiffel´s steel church

Interior of Eiffel´s steel church

We had a wander around own and tried eating in a food chain place, schopdog (schop being draft ale) but that was a mistake. Cheap, but poor quality food compared to what you can buy in most small good places here.

Christ the redeemer makes like an eagle

It's very warm here, in 30s during day, and 20s at night, first time we've had it hot right through for a while, like a British heat wave - only here it probably la

20th Feb 2006 - San Pedro de Atacama, Jama pass

242 kms

To continue our quest to discover the area we thought we'd have a peak at the Bolivian border today and a further part of the Flamenco National Park that lies over near Argentina, so this place really is a crossroads.

You cannot miss the road to the Jama pass as it goes straight from the side of San Pedro into the hills in what looks like a direct line.

That's not far from the case either, it climbs and climbs without the benefit of any bends of hairpins, it just goes straight up. No idea what the gradient is, but on the way back is was 40kms of downhill, half of which was direct freefall. Apparently most of the heavy traffic uses the other pass, and I can see why. The drain on HGV brakes of that descent must be enormous. The hazard is obviously that of the runaway train.

One thing noticeable in all of South America is the number of roadside shrines they are numerous, but never more so than on the Pan Am in the north, or on the big Andean mountain passes. Today was a fine example in how the roads combined with the state of the vehicles using them - at least in the past - conspires to dot the verge regularly with these shrines. It must be a Catholic thing I guess. The shrines vary tremendously; some must have over the years taken greater importance and have been built up and are sometimes signed, and most are fairly simple and rudimentary. The ones on in the desert are particularly interesting as they often have little enclosures and vegetation. The only way that can happen is if people water them, and obviously they do. Some shrines are surrounded by used water bottles, sometimes in hundreds, but I don't know the significance of that.

Anyway, what reminded me was the sight near the top of the descent (ascent) where we stopped today. There were five separate crosses and flowers, and just over a little berm a mangled HGV cab with various bits of axles and trailer bed laid around. Someone’s brakes obviously had failed, and you dread to think how long he was careering out of control fighting to save himself before the wagon finally went off the road and destroyed itself. Whether the other crosses were from the same accident I doubt, but it looked to be a father and son in the wagon anyway.

Shrines - result of crashes on road - see them everywhere once roads get dodgy - these on Jama pass

The road to the Bolivian border was dirt but reasonable, as we approached the gatehouse (Chilean customs are in town) the Bolivian guard came out, and almost looked disappointed as we turned before it, but soon went bank inside. I can't imagine this border getting much traffic, especially not as now in the rainy season.

We returned to the fine tarmaced Jama pass and continued onwards. The views of the surrounding mountains were impressive, even after all these months. There was no plated high point, but we definitely went over the highest point before we got to the park at 4300m, so say 4500m. Due to the nature of the ascent the bike seemed to notice this one more in some ways, all the long drags. The effect is the opposite of what I'd expect. I'd guess you need to leave it in lower gears at higher revs, but in fact it you over rev it coughs and spits, better changing up. Obviously there’s a limit - you can't stay in top. The bike did very well indeed; in fact better than most vehicles we met....which were few. For such a well made pass probably only 15 we saw.

Some of the colours were once again impressive, and the high altitude lagoons certainly so, quite a surprise. Seeing water up here was unexpected. Surely heavily salted or similar, but colours from deep blue, to green. There was wildlife too, not aplenty, but more than many places. Flamingoes, Vicunas (type of Llama) geese and some small birds. We also saw two Argentinean reg vehicles - first for an age !

Not llama, not Guanaco, but Vicuña

It was cold, which was actually very nice, and we had our cags on, but the sky was generally cloudless so the sun was warming.

The park was free and in sections along the road and quite beautiful. The rock formations particularly were spectacular. being you are surrounded by wide open space there is no reason not to just ride off the road and go to what you see (but watch the sand) which we did on a couple of occasions, quite liberating, image the comments you'd get if you did the same at home.

Tara, Salar Aguas Calientes, Jama Pass. There is a bike under that pillar

We returned to find an email from Miguel saying he had found a tyre and details of how we could pay and get it delivered by bus to arica. Here the buses are used a bit like couriers and will take parcels in exchange for payment. You can collect the parcels at their terminal. Spoke to Miguel later in evening too as email is fine but not a very personal approach. He has been so helpful to us, and it looks like we might well be back on track again which will be wonderful. To add to the feeling of well being the brake fluid level didn’t seem to be dropping as much today either. If stays like that we may be able to continue topping it up and catching the spillage with folded up toilet paper as per the last three months. Its one of those jobs I don't really want to do unless I have too as it could end up worse than now. Currently we have brakes that work fine; if the repair failed we could end up with no front brake. Not ideal on Andean mountain passes!

Tuesday 21st February 2006

Calama + Chuquicamata Copper Mine

245 kms

Our first task was too get the details sorted for the tyre. Miguel had emailed the fact he was able to get one the right size and what the price would be and how we had to pay. As there is no banking facility in San Pedro that tied to Miguel’s bank we had to go to Calama.

Though the road across to Calama is pretty bleak it is a straight run and only takes a little over an hour, some long tugs up and down hill though.

To cut a long story short we got there, and the bank we needed couldn't accept deposits and with time running out before they closed we ended up paying into a relatives account in order to pay. It was a close run thing but we succeeded in the end. All of this is of course based entirely on trust. Miguel packed the tyre off to the Tur Bus company and it will travel with them to Arica were we go to their terminal and pay for the carriage (£8) and prove who we are to get the goods. Like many things in Chile the cost of the tyre is around 50% more than Argentina, and near the UK price (the tyres are made in Brazil). But no tyre, no further north, so it's a small price to pay.

The important task complete we had the option of gaining something from the long round trip by way of trying again to visit the worlds largest open cast copper mine at Chuquicamata

We thought there were tours at 8.30 and 14.30, the time now was just gone two! A bit of a dash up the road for 12kms and the time was very near half past.

The city basically is the mine now, as 8,000 folk works there and 30% of Chile's entire income is from this mine. So it's quite a place. The mine itself dominates the landscape as of course the spoil heaps are of enormous proportions, clearly visible for miles.

We dashed into the tour office to find that the tour leaves at 3pm and of course was fully booked! We could wait and see if there were any cancellations, there often are the woman said. Obviously you see all the folk, and the others who came before you who had no tickets and think, not a hope!

In fact we were lucky, everyone left, and there was space for two more only. We had to quickly do the paperwork and pay. There is no charge for the tour, just a donation to a local children’s charity. I opted for 5000 for the two of us which sounded pretty reasonable. We dashed out with our bike gear with us as the office was due to close. Luckily there was space on the coach for all the clutter.

We had the introductions and a test of how many different races and the tour commenced in Spanish and English - lucky for us !

I'll sketch some details in at the end, but basically the mine has been here since 1915 and extends down 850m, in standard fashion it is tiered out and upwards and so is an immense hole in the ground - unbelievably huge, hard to comprehend. We saw all this from a viewing point for about 20 minutes and it was amazing, like a human inverted ant heap.

The worlds biggest open cast copper mine - that truck is carrying over 100 tonnes

There are round the clock operations and obviously some of the biggest Tonka toys you've ever dreamt of. It's hard to describe the scene. We only saw the pit really; none of the processing side or finished product, but the guide gave us insights to the future.

Can’t get the scale, 3.5kms long, 2.5kms wide

They expect to mine for 85 more years, go down to a depth of 1100m - the economics of further depths rule them out, and link with two other nearby mines to create one super mine 15kms long. One big hole !

There were a few questions I would have liked to ask, but we weren't able to at the time. Such as:

Will they infill it (unlikely) or pay for fencing as security ?

Are there any side effects of having such a huge deep hole in the neighborhood ?

How warm was it in the bottom - apart from the suns heat, there must perhaps be the earth’s heat too ?

How long does it take one truckload to ascend ?

Other things that struck me were :-

If the copper market falls, Chile will collapse.
With an 85 year life the shares must be good
It's a state run company so must corruption you'd think.

On our return we stopped by yet another large memorial sat in the dessert. This one had a plaque in Spanish that I could at least understand. It was a memorial to 34 people executed here by the Pinochet Dictatorship in the 70s I think, the infamous "caravan of death" and good to see being recognized in this relatively newly democratized country.

Shrine to the victims of the ´Caravan of Death´ under the Pinochet regime

So all in all today was a definite good day, and we gained more than we ever expected so double bonus.

Wednesday 22nd February 2006

San Pedro De Atacama

0 kms

Well, almost truly a day of leisure today. We came to San Ped to stay a few days mainly in order to pick up some leads being sent form AutoCom – the leads packed up first way back in November I think, we made them function until December when a replacement set were sent from the states – but the states dealer got it wrong and sent wrong parts (at $45 cost to us I add). We had a repair and a fiddle in Ushuaia that lasted on and off til about a month ago. Autocom were sending the right leads direct from UK to here Poste Restante (sp) but so far nothing’s arrived, beginning to worry we´re doomed to bad luck on the intercom front. It’s had a lot of use, but is disappointing that it’s failed as we really need it for the long boring riding days. Last chance tomorrow.

Had a very relaxing day, in fact spent the day doing little but getting frustrated by internet problems here. The upside was we got to spend quite some time with some other residents at the hostel a French family from Aix en Provence. They were very nice, and particularly nice to see a family interacting so much, definitely people we’ll keep in touch with and hopefully meet again. Even had a pool championship in evening. Shame they’re leaving in morning, off to visit a cousin who works at an observatory so very envious of the fact they’ll see a real telescope in action while here – bet that knocks the pants off the one we went too. You can visit the observatories here, the big ones, but only during day which seems against the whole point.

Thursday 23rd February 2006

San Pedro de Atacama

nominal kms

Another relaxing day with a ride out into the canyons hereabouts – another opportunity to get completely bogged in sand, but at least when only in the thirties rather than forties ¡

Trying to tell me something else?

Rode out towards the geysers, but never went all the way as road rough and they are best viewed in a.m. but don’t seem too spectacular by all accounts we’ve received – not with a 4am start anyway.

Some great cacti by road, we never knew those ´rain sticks you buy are made from dried cacti wood from hereabouts. It’s wonderful stuff as light and very ´vented for want of a better word.

Well that´s a surprise - forgot we´d cross this!

Sending this as our final task, then we’re up in morning an Arica bound. Lets hope we get the tyre more successfully than the intercom leads…sadly nothing arrived while here (allowed 10 days which is 50% more than it takes the CDs to get to UK) so looks like we’ll be shouting through Bolivia and Peru – a great disappointment.

16th Feb 2006 - Caldera - Antofagasta

526 kms

Hot desert and a return to the hotel of love!

Well another day of mileage crunching though it wasn't planned that way. The book talked of a little place only 60kms away that was to be our destination, but when we arrived at Chañaral it far from lived up to expectations. The book has slightly over egged the description on many of the destinations in more northern Chile, but I put down to the fact most of the small places are bougainvillea and therefore even a few crumbling historic looking building are mentioned, yet they're not worthy of attention.

Having stayed in one port that was a mix of fishing fleet and a mini Teeside we didn't need another after on 60kms so decided to push on. There is only so much attraction in looking at a bay with steel jetties for exporting nitrates and ores stretching out to see and shanty buildings huddled around a dust blown bay. Remove the buildings and industry and simply admire the crashing rollers from the Pacific and the craggy shoreline and sandy beaches (don't look too closely) and the place looked OK, but really it wasn't.

Not a problem except there is bugger all up here now OK Antofagasta is a large place (225,000) - and therefore bloody awful to our mind, one part lovely sea front, one part modern tower blocks and decrepit old buildings and one part rough as anything. Not somewhere we wanted to stay, but necessity said we would have to, anyway.

The Pan Am loomed onwards as did the traffic. Quite a bit of HGV traffic, they really struggle with the long stretching uphills and grind to a snails pace towards the top of the inclines. Strange as most are humongous great modern tractor units, much bigger than UK, and therefore I assume they are just well overloaded.

Still can't believe we haven't seen one foreign plate since being on the route, not one. I don't mean tourists, I mean Argentinian, or Bolivian or Peruvian vehicles, neither commercial, or private. I would actually guess we'd also see some European ones as all the ones we saw previously can't have just not come north, surely?

It's the wrong time to visit Bolivia due to the rainy season, but there must be folk like us who just had to come round this way at this time - no?

The rain must have been pretty tremendous in Bolivia as people mentioned the weather we had in Vicuna as being the result of Bolivia, and today we saw distant Andean faces that were plastered in new snow which can't be that normal for summer.

Flowering cacti

At one point some the vehicles coming towards us were spattered in red mud as if they'd been in a rally. Considering how long ago the last rain must have been this seemed odd. As we approached the only fuel stop for over 200kms before Antofagasta at Agua Verde we could see there was uncharacteristically muddy water standing at the side of the road, and further up in a slow flowing muddy sludge, which had recently crossed the road in a few places. A guy in the petrol station said this was a result of the rains in Bolivia. Incredible, as the only views we got of the Andes were of them nearly 100 miles away. He chatted to us as he used to have a BM like ours. I mentioned about tyres and he gave us his card and said call me when you're in Antofagasta and I'll help you find one. That was so kind, we have met so many generous people on this trip.

All day we'd been riding though unvegitated desert, no sign of life....well...there was one Guanaco (or vicuna, or llama, whatever type it was) on its own, but nothing else. Pure rocky desert.

Danger, Llama´s crossing - first ´truly´wild ones (OK the locals herd them, but they´re not for tourists, they’re for life)

Although fairly featureless it did have some striking colours along the way which meant the journey wasn't boring. We had also been along the Pacific coast for a portion of the morning which was quite impressive.

Another draw back of having several hundred kilometres between places (and they might not have much in way of facilities) is food. Getting lunch today we pulled into a posada, small shanty looking places in isolated spots with truckers outside. Asked for two completos - set meals, and got a large bowl of soup each. It was mystery what is was a broth like thing. I was lost to figure out what the 'meat' constituent was and asked Bev. Until that point she was tucking in heartily. She said 'chicken'. I said not. She investigated and lost interest in eating it after that. It wasn't chicken, and certainly wasn't a mushroom, guess it was some form of offal or something, white with some grey on, and the odd tube. Sounded too much like something I didn't want to eat anyway, and neither did Bev after that. The main was OK with fish and rice and salad. No drinks were available excepting coffee or a large bottle of Fanta. At a cost of £2 each not bad, but the choice for eating is getting thin up here. It really is an isolated blank spread of country.

This area was, and still is, an area for mining naturally occurring minerals and the like and has swapped nationalities through the last few hundred years. We came across some British Ruins today by the roadside which would I guess have been a Anglo Chilean Nitrates plant. there were many here, providing great wealth, until the Europeans started manufacturing them rather than importing the raw product.

Trying to tell me something?

Before we got to Antofagasta we came across the surreal 'hand' in the desert. Much photographed and as strange in real life as in pictures. Four fingers and a separate thumb (left hand) protrude upwards in hollow cast concrete about 20+ feet high. No idea of the relevance, but it's a strange sight. Sadly had lots of new graffiti on, but that's par for the course here. Even in a small place like vicuna, nearly even flat wall and surface was 'tagged', completely out of control, especially when most were domestic house walls. As there was literally no shade or shelter along the route today, it also stake of pee ! Compulsory photo taken we continued.

Hand - the big mysterious hand everyone gets photographed at - how long before someone removes a thumb and two fingers I wonder?

We had hoped we could get a new rear tyre today, but even in Antofagasta it proved impossible. While trying to find accommodation for the night we stumbled on a small motorcycle shop and I enquired within. They had nothing, but one of the guys led us on his rather knackered Yamaha FZ through to a couple of other shops that also drew a blank. It was a sporting ride as we did a couple of illegal moves and he wasn't hanging around. He did do it all for nothing though which was very good. We also tried to get some DOT4 brake fluid, which before coming away I had never even thought would be a problem, but has been. In Argentina you can only get DOT3 (the older stuff isn't as good, and I understood you couldn't mix it) but I'm surprised it's proved difficult here as all the modern cars must use it. Anyway I'm sure we can source some another time. The Honda shop had some, wanted £3, and it turned out to be open anyway which is not good for brake fluid. As we had exhausted the bike shops we didn't ring Miguel as a pair of Brazilian bikers we met later suggested Calama might have a bike shop.

By the time we'd done all this it was just gone seven so we tried to find one of the accommodations listed in the guide. We found it, it had no parking, we were roasting, so we decided to just split and get anything outside town.

During the day the temperature varied considerably. By coast high 20s, but very cooling breeze, and inland it had risen to 40, while we were moving - very warm!

Leaving the city we of course found nothing in the way of accommodation, just suburbs, and the sun was starting to really fade. I saw one sign 'motel'. I sensed I knew what that meant, certainly not a motel in the UK sense. I mentioned it to Bev, and apparently she had just been thinking, a Love Hotel would do just now (and she didn't mean it 'that' way!) and so our destination for the night came to us.

These places are most peculiar. I can't figure out whether they take people in for the night as a course that aren't in for the 'passion' or whether they think even we are here for a night of passion. Anyway, the price is a tenner for 12 hours, which at near 9 o'clock is fine - we were desperate enough.

The strange thing is, these are cheaper and surprisingly better quality than the accommodation we have had to on occasion pay twice as much for in Chile..

These places are very secure - your vehicle is always next to room and behind doors, they are always clean, and they have much better sound insulation than almost anywhere we've had in Chile. So all in all, they're not bad as a last straw, certainly better than half the places we've stayed so far here. I'm not sure whether or not you could get one of these places as a solo traveller, whether they'd accept it or not, maybe as a couple it easy. I'm not sure they have any triples or quads either, as they might be going too far.

God only knows what the people make of it...but then we are far from caring. I'm sure it causes minor amusement at home too!

Friday 17th February 2006

Antofagasta -

550 (?) kms

Leaving our love lodge we discovered the cause for all the earlier sirens when we came across the first crash for a long time, and the car that had hit the van looked in a very poor way. Fatal I suspect. The TV crew were already there - an aspect of the local news is they always show if there (as often there are) nasty road accidents. Great viewing obviously.

One of the roads out of the city was still closed, due to road damage from the flood water from 100kms away, still hard to believe. There were sections of our road that had temporary speed limits or diversions due to the huge undulations the water had caused when it washed out the sub-base. Two days previous it had been closed for a time. And remember, as previously emphasised this was in the middle of the Atacama desert were there is nothing, generally, in the way of any vegetation, not even cacti. You can't believe rain and snow from a hundred miles away can get this far and still cause damage. The floods we had at Hawby were staggering, but very local, I wonder what the damage was like nearer the source here - I guess there is less to damage in the mountains. It made us think back to the closure of the high pass we crossed a few days ago - maybe they had reason to be cautious.

Digger - I know, I know, not professional term for a civil engineer to use, a pair of superceded bucket excavators outside a nitrate (or similar) mine - Cummins engines

Today we really had the heat, over 40 on the move, and little relief. There are so few hamlets it's not even as if you can stop every hour for an ice cream or drink. We get cold water where ever we can and fill the bladders in the back of our jackets and carry one. The water cools you briefly, is wonderful to drink, then loses it's cool, then gains the heat and is not quite as refreshing.

We had planned to head for Calama and try to get DOT4 brake fluid, try for a tyre, and get a hostel for the night as we wanted to visit the copper mine outside of the town. They do two tours a day, and it's the biggest open cast copper mine in the world....huge.

Well sadly we were let down on all accounts as we tried nearly all the accommodation options (without going ridiculous) and surprisingly all were full. It is the middle of the holiday season, but perhaps there was something else on. It was exhausting work riding around for a couple of hours in that heat in bike gear. I don't like letting the bike do it either.

By the end we were thoroughly disenfranchised (or insert a stronger word yourself) and very hot and bothered. To be frank we were both entirely offed with this section of Chile in total. Met some great people, but the scenery died out post the Lake District if you ignore days out into the mountain passes. It's really time for a change of scenery.

We had one chance, head the 100kms to San Pedro de Atacama. We set out and followed an extremely boring road until gradually the horizon dropped and the snowy peaks of the Andes started to poke skywards.

We pulled in for a break 35kms from San Ped and both had very bad feelings of our adventure beginning to end. The tears were welling up in Bev's eyes and I could find myself going the same way. It was not the altitude, or exhaustion, it was the fact we both felt we were getting into a situation were we would have to return to Argentina to get tyres, and we'd never then get north again to Bolivia and Peru. It was crushing. We knew we would be limited as it is the rainy season in Bolivia ruling out the small unsurfaced roads (nearly all) but we really wanted to get up there for the change.

Bev had planned for us to go through San Ped on our way to Argentina after Bolivia and Peru so I guess that's what heightened the effect for her. For me I was just sick to death of struggling around trying to find things I thought wouldn't be a problem here.

We both needed an upper here, and luckily we got it in San Pedro! As we approached the town (small 2,800) the light was fading but the sight of the rocks around glowing in the last of the light and the recently snow bedecked Andes and volcanoes lifted our souls.

As we pulled into San Ped we were greeted with a surprise. It was like entering a North African desert town, all adobe mud walls and low roofs. Completely different to any were else we have been, and straight away we liked it.

We got a really quite nice hostel right on the edge of town - it's good to be away from the party centre as this is Gringo's Ville. It was nice to find accommodation at a fair price that was actually good quality, we thought we'd seen the last of that way down on the Careterra Austral.

A walk into the town proved a few things. One, the street lights the owner said come on, didn't, but they were no sad loss as the night sky was truly fantastic. Amazingly the moon doesn't rise til about 10 or 11 and so the sky is remarkably visible. The other thing was that this really is a place were all travellers come, and hence it has a different character. The facilities are all here, and very good, but as only a small community, they are also very friendly and there is no feeling of threat at all, even stumbling around in the dark.

We found a restaurant that was honestly as nice as anything back home and had a set meal that was very good for a price you could pay in York, but it was nice to get good service, good food, and a beautiful room, not often you get all three.

We were much happier bunnies.

Saturday 18th February 2006

San Pedro de Atacama

25 kms

We checked out the post office in morning as we are awaiting some new AutoCom leads so we can once again enjoy proper conversations on the move, this we are greatly looking forward too. I didn't think they'd be here yet, and they weren't, but we've already decided to stay a few days and chill as this is definitely the place to do it.

Had a cup of (real!) coffee and wrote some cards while chatting to other Brits over here on tours and like.

Went wandering around town and bought some food for breakfasts and as the hostel has a kitchen for the use of and a nice patio and hammock etc.

On the off chance I decided to try the garage (well petrol station) for brake fluid. You could have knocked me down with a feather duster. Six bottles of DOT4, all in date and unopened. I resisted the urge to buy all, but got a couple for £2.50 each which wasn't too bad and some oil for the old girl too. Well, well, well, things were improving all the time.

We still had Miguel's card, and thinking back to his kind offer of assistance, and the fact he was returning to Santiago, we thought we could take him at his word and call him and see if he could help with the rear tyre. Obviously our Spanish is not up to calling bike shops to try and find one with a tyre in stock, and then arrange getting it here, but if Miguel could, we might just be out of our predicament.

We found a phone place - over here the Internet and shops full of phone booths are prevalent in all towns, even very small ones. Loads of folk have mobiles, but there is no end of trade for the phone booths. Ironically the lad just punched Miguel's number into a mobile and passed it to me when ringing.

Obviously Miguel speaks very good English, or this wouldn't have worked very well at all. After introductions and pleasantries we were in full on English. Of course he remembered us, and he would love to help. I could send the details to his works email address and he's pick it up Monday morning and make some calls. If he could get a tyre he would buy it and arrange sending and we could pay him. A very trusting man, as are most we have met, it's Good (as my mother always says) to find that most people are genuine and honest and so keen to help. It might come to nothing, but Miguel was quite confident he could find a tyre in Santiago and get it to us somehow. If he can, our plans for Bolivia and Peru will be back...fantastic, what a great guy, and just a chance meeting.

We wanted to see another local spectacle later in the day, so returned and got the bike out late afternoon to ride to the Valle de la Luna. It was only a few kms out of town off the pavement road and down few more of repio and we were there. There is an entrance fee (£1.50 each) and the tour buses go there for the spectacle of the sun setting on the rocks and dunes.

An interruption. The Atacama desert - the driest on earth - is not all sand! In fact, generally it is sand encrusted with gravel and stone and minerals on top, so you don't see dune after dune - In fact you generally see huge flat expanses with rock bits and only the odd dune. Just so you get the picture, it’s not the Sahara as classically thought (though neither is all that of course).

Valley of the Moon just outside San Pedro de Atacama

We entered the park and discovered it is remarkably small, the road is only 7.2kms long. In this immense distance are packed a horde of sights. Well, OK, a dune to climb, some wind sculpted rocks, and the pathetic remains of a small salt mine.

That all sounds negative, but it isn't, the place is really nice, just small, and that's not so good with the pressures of tour groups etc, but we're all here for the same thing. We thought at the price we would come and have a look, but go somewhere else I had spotted for sunset, and return here and do the tourist bit another day. There were some nice sites, and it was quite amazing the double-takes we got as there are so may Brits here with tour groups like Dragoman. When they're camped on your campsite it is a bit of a pain as I have said, but we are all doing this big circuit however heroic we feel our efforts are. This group was at the observatory as we recognised one or two. They're nice enough folk in the most, and keen to chat as they think what we're doing is brilliant. Can't say I can say the same in return, but some of them are living this tour for 6 months too and seeing just what we are generally so I'll leave my bitching out and respect them for what they're doing....but I hope we don't meet again.....we will!

We left the 'park' and went out on the main road to the spot I'd thought of. Ours is a trip using roads of one form or another most times and therefore the road is a focal point. Hence I wanted a sun set on the approach road from yesterday that had looked so impressive in the late evening light. Needless to sat, as it was in front of the pass, the sun was well and truly gone and we were too late. One for another evening for sure, but we took some pics anyway and marvelled at the view. Those snow capped mountains are definitely shedding their whiteness, I'm sure snow of that amount at this time of year is rare.

Sun set over the Andean range looking towards San Ped

So, our whole mood has changed. We are at last looking like we can continue our limited tour, and although we will not be doing Bolivia and Peru justice we will get a flavour, and a fortnight in each should give us a lot of good memories. There are lots of folk that manage to pack in what we have done into half the time we have, but it all depends how much time you have. We are lucky, we have been able to dwell in places and truly get a flavour of the place, but that time has passed, and we must think ahead and plan the remainder of our time to be as effective as possible.

It is definitely absolutely impossible to do South America justice in anything less than a minimum of a year, and to include everywhere, really a year and a half. we have only seen the bottom thin bit, and we have not been bored through staying places too long, in fact generally the opposite. You definitely need a month of two in most of the countries to appreciate them fully. So if any of you fancy this trip, plan to be here much longer for the outset. We certainly would have done if we'd known, but this has been a fabulous opportunity for us and there is virtually 30% of our time ahead!

Sunday 19th February 2006

San Pedro de Atacama

155 kms

As you would know by now the weather was absolutely as always. It's hot but it gets much hotter 3 or 4pm, so the best plan would be up early, off early, back for siesta and bed early. Well that might be the best plan, but not ours - and as it doesn't tie in with most of Latin America it's just as well. You wouldn't get much sleep going to bed early as even last night there was some deranged men knocking on the doors to try and find out how to get hot water at 1am, same people, different country I guess, but folk here do stay up much, much later, and consequently (when on holiday) get up later. Often see no one around on a Sunday til 11am. Anyway, so we don't get up early, but we were on the road by 10.30 which is good enough when you aren't aiming for somewhere but just touring the area.

Today's plan was the Salt lake (third largest in the world) and then to the town down the road, Tocoao, to try and find a locally produced sweet fortified wine (we're not alcoholics honestly, just like to find the local brew!).

It's strange how much it heats up during the afternoon, the morning ride was comfortable enough not to require all zips open, the ride back required all open and sweating like pigs.

The best Salta is undoubtedly the one in Bolivia, but it's under water at moment which is spectacular, but not anything we'd take the bike through - a LOT worse than road salt in winter. also due to the rain, those small access roads are out of our league, we would slither off everywhere...and that isn't something we want to start doing after 4 months free.

So, this salar is no way as impressive - in fact, disappointingly, there is no vast white expanse, it is more cracked up mud and salt cake than anything, being honest, not actually that spectacular.

View of the Salar with mystery bird

The attraction though is the Flamingos. Not just Chilean ones as we've seen afore, but here also Flamenco de James (I guess that the dance got the name) and another I forget. In fact without going back to their boards I'm unable to describe each type.

View of the Salar

We parked up, and as ever though we had to pay an entry, we were able to leave our lids, jackets and tank bag with the helpful staff. Although all the vehicles were Chilean we soon discovered who many were driven by other nationalities. There is at least one UK reg bike here, not seen, and a French land rover, so there are others here.

A pair of those mystery birds

We usually ride in our bike gear if going more than a short distance, or if off road (overlook the Brazil bit!) and surprisingly it wasn't ridiculously hot in the bike trousers for walking around their paths to see the sites.

OK, it´s a bloody penguin alright?

As mentioned the flamingos are the star attraction, and though smaller in numbers than elsewhere we've been, they were closer. There were also other wading birds and a few nice looking lizards (half without tails, obviously close escapees).

There were some nice folk there as well as some of the usual tour group mentality (how long do you need to be in SA before you stop flushing toilet paper down the bog and blocking it I'd like to now ? They can't have all arrived that day - and they have warnings signs in the toilets too). So met some nice folk asking what we were doing there and asking for us to take there photos and the like.

Leaving with it still warm we returned to Tocotoa in search of the booze. There were a few local restaurants so we chose the one with the best balance of people versus loud music. We were, as often, the only Europeans in, and it was good honest cheap fare. Finally managed to get rabbit, Bev having Chicken, and they were both like you were eating with friends (that could cook of course). The meal was great and for the price excellent. If you make the effort to show your satisfaction in the local language people love it.

The quest for the wine was more difficult. We were pointed to a shop and once within discovered not rows of labelled wines, but a lady who popped round the back and came back with a recycled Pisco bottle full of the red wine. Was expecting white like Muscatel (sp), so red was a surprise. And the price, 5,000...bloody hell! There was no negotiation as this was their best four year old stuff. They opened a sampler, and indeed it was good so we decided to go mad and let them have the money. Maybe, or maybe not, it was a gringo price, but as it was nice we didn't care.

Returning along the road we saw one of those brown tourist signs that seemed to indicate rock paintings or something. As there was no road, just tire tracks across the dessert I was a little apprehensive, especially as getting to the hot part now, but we went. Generally it was OK, but there were one or two sandy patches (what in a desert) that had the bike squirreling around lock to lock. Couple of spots Bev had to dismount and a couple of spots I had to and walk with throttle wide to prevent bike submerging. What a great plan this was.

Finally reaching another sign we looked around for the paintings or whatever. No sign, no sign anyone had been this year either, no bloody wonder two miles off the road across desert! We eventually saw what we guess was the sight, some old walls for an enclosure and a couple of very small dwellings. Well, that must have been it. We returned without too much excitement, but considerable sweat.

It is amazing how our emotions have swung back around to total enjoyment again...thank God!

12th February 2006 - Vicuña

0 kms

Basically, as we expected the clouding over of the skies, in this the 'best place in the world to see the stars at night' meant our astronomical adventure was cancelled, in fact bad enough to cancel the whole night’s bookings, even the 1am. A very disappointing evening for us.

The rock bands were a bit lacking too so we were off to bed somewhat let down, mother nature eh.

Monday 13th February 2006

Vicuña - Paso del Agua Negra (4753 or 4779!), Arg. frontier and back

336 kms

What a difference a day makes - good title for a song !

We decided that we'd push the boat out and stay a further night in a last ditch attempt to stargaze properly.

To fill the day we thought we'd attempt a bit of pass storming and ride up to the frontier at Paso del Agua Negra. Not sure why we hadn't thought of it before, perhaps because it was quite a haul, one way, and on unsurfaced roads, but it was a real gem of a day.

All the indications we had, including the local tourist information somewhat strangely, was that the road was unsurfaced for most of the route. In fact we found out the road was entirely surfaced until about 20kms from the Chilean immigration which is some half way along the route, 84kms before the actual border, the Argentinean customs being a similar distance the other side. that's a significant area of 'no mans land' when you think about it, but mainly due to the sparse population and height of pass.

On the way we had blissful tarmac that was only a few years old I guess, and some incredible views of the extent to which they strive to create areas they can grow the grapes for Pisco on. The valley is historically irrigated, even having a trail down it named the Inca Way that obviously predates most of the modern agriculture.

Large tracts of land were protected with timber spars and netting to - we guess - keep the strong winds off the grapes and minimise evaporation. The lengths they have gone too are considerable. On approach some of these large patches looked like huge corn fields as the netting is straw coloured. It was quite an amazing sight.

The road changed, as mentioned, to repio for 20 kms before the aduana, but for the most was excellent condition meaning we had little concern though most of the luggage was still on the bike.

Naturally there was the issue of whether we would be able to climb the pass without clearing customs 'properly'. I didn't want to hand over the temporary import docs for the bike, or get stamps 'out' of Chile as both would be difficult - I guessed - to get done again if we returned without having been through the Argentina in side. I had thought perhaps we could explain our plan and get them to keep the docs and return them once we came back down, but had doubts they would agree.

As has surprised us on many occasions during this trip with the officials on the borders, it was to turn out to be nothing of a serious problem. I explained our plans, making it obvious we weren't going to go into Argentina, but just go to the top of the pass then come down again, and the customs guy said "OK' and gave us a stamp out on a piece of paper with 'Frontier' written on to show we weren't leaving Chile. At the police point we again explained our plan, and they again were quite happy with that. They didn't want the temporary import papers and they didn't want to stamp the passports. The only draw back was they wanted to hold our passports until our return.

Would have preferred not to have handed them over, but I guess in the past hotels have held them, and I'd like to think you can trust the police more than a hotel so we handed them over. I checked to make sure the same guy would be on duty first though. Not entirely happy, but happy enough with this plan.

The barrier was up, and we were off!

The pass was billed in the local tourist information as very colourful and wonderful, but that's all we had to go on. That and the fact it was clearly higher than any pass we had ridden our bike on - by a long way.

We soon discovered the tourist information was bang on right when we climbed past a recently constructed dam and got our first views of the multicoloured landscape set against the vivid turquoise of the lake.

I'm not sure how words can do the colours of the hills justice, and I'm not sure the photographs will either. I can't believe they will truly reflect the natural colours we saw.

The hillsides were variously orange, ochre, purple, red, pink, coral, grey, blue, green, yellow and every (and I mean every) shade between. It was like a surreal painting by Salvador Dali.

The road followed the river for a long way without gaining much altitude. There were quite a few nomad like small settlements that were small families of goat herders following their herds from lower to higher pasture we assume.

The road started to climb steadily and very slowly after a long way, and the first sights of the higher peaks surrounding came into view. They were gilded in obviously fresh snow that came down quite a way. It reminded me greatly of the scenes you see in Scotland in March or April when the old snow has receded, and new snow falls. There is that excitement of the winter, but the knowledge it won't last.

With the pass being a high one, there was also the thought of what would it be like higher up. Even at this level the temperature was very warm, it had been 35 down in the valley when we started, and certainly high 20s now, certainly just below too warm on the bike.

The road started to climb in earnest and the route zigzagged across broad slopes slowly gaining height. We still had stunning views looking back towards were we had come as the light played with the coloured landscape creating quite unsurpassable views (surely ?)

As we got higher it became obvious we were ridding towards big grey clouds. As we got to them, or into them, we discovered they were snow ! It was time for waterproofs over, for warmth rather than waterproofing, and we soon had to change our gloves for the winter ones in the pannier. My hands were painful with electric like pains from the cold even though I had my heated grips.

It wasn't just the cold, it was the altitude. We were gaining height far more now, and the road, though very good repio, occasionally had more challenging sections where we were swimming through deep gravel for short sections. Not welcome when the hillside was obviously naked and the slope to the edge was very unforgiving and vertiginous.

The engineering in getting this road up the pass was impressive, and even more impressive was the skills of the grader drivers who had obviously fairly recently graded the route - not easy !

The altitude was definitely making itself known by way of breathing becoming more strained and each breath being less effective. I actually found my head was slightly muggy and with the combination of the bitter, bitter, cold it was becoming quite a challenge. The bike was coping very well up until near the top, no real coughing or missing, just a gradual loss of power. Often I would change first to second, then back again as I hadn't used enough revs, but other than that it was doing very well.

The track was quite narrow in places, especially when some rock had fallen, or there were areas of snow breaking out into the tracks. We were now high enough for some significant snow to be laying, it was the new stuff, it was what remained from the previous winter. some patches must have been nearer and crossed half the track. We were well into the high and white zone now.

To be honest, we were cold, the weather was against us, and I was jus counting down the kilometers to the top. Would it ever come ? Progress is very slow at these altitudes and one these roads. Only 15kms to go and I was almost thinking we should turn and go down, that's how cold and hard it was. But at the same time, neither us wanted to not make it to the top.

We finally got there and boy was my head spinning, and our hands were so cold. Mainly thanks to the altitude I think rather than the weather, but our ascent had been quick, only two or three hours to gain at least 4000m. It was a case of take some picccies and bugger off back down quick.

Sadly there were no views to be had - 30 minutes later would probably have been fine, but we peaked too early ! It was 1pm and we had a long descent so no point hanging around, and we wouldn't anyway as it was just not the right conditions.

The sign at the top said Altitude 4753m which is one hell of a long way up, certainly the highest we've been on our bike, and well beyond the call of duty.

At the top were the obligatory Chile and Argentina signs, a nice sculpture of a cycle, numerous plinths to dignitaries I assume, and one with a steering wheel and about half a dozen plaques that I guess were folk who'd died driving here...or maybe it was to honor the grader and construction crew drivers, I guess the former

Bev's thermometer was showing -2, and our bodies were showing much lower with the wind chill. My thumbs were achingly painful. Not somewhere to linger, though we would really have liked to. This wasn't the weather for it at all. On numerous other occasions you might be able to picnic here (with a headache), but on other occasions you'd suffer what we did, or worse. This height in the mountains is not to be taken lightly.

All in all, this had been a challenging ride, and we were only half way! Sometimes it is easier going uphill (well nearly always under power) so we didn't want to underestimate getting back down too !

We turned and left with the weather breaking slightly, but not enough for distance views, and certainly not enough too warm us. There had been very light traffic on the pass, all Chile reg, guess going up and down again. On whole of descent we only saw two more vehicles !

It was quite tricky going down as not only was my head spinning a bit, it was more difficult swimming through the sections of deeper gravel under deceleration rather than acceleration. For the second time in the trip so far, we nearly came off. The first time had been near Lago Carerra when the rear end had caught some loose material and spun out and the bike nearly fell over barring me jabbing a leg out. On that occasion I had nearly folded my ankle up and it was a wonder it didn't break, never mind sprain. We didn't want that up here. Wanted or not, the gravel was extraordinarily difficult, especially now with us tired and cold. The front end dug in a bit hard and the bike turned suddenly, I countered it, and we swung the other way suddenly too. It's so easy in this circumstance to loose it, but luckily we didn't. We were both somewhat panting now. The sudden race of blood enough to tire the body to point of minor exhaustion. Even my voice was a little horse (sp)

As we cleared the cloud, or it cleared us in effect, we no longer had the snow, really it had stopped before we reached the summit, all but. The views were still not of huge distance as the surrounding mountains were still 6000m peaks.. The views back were we'd come were good though with us now looking down from the virtual snow line to the colourful valley below. Looking over the edge and down was a little worrying though as it really was still pretty high.

Returning gave us the views the other way and I saw the old ice field the road cut through (Bev had seen it on way up but didn't want to distract me). The ice was sculpted by the wind into myriad pinnacles and fins, very impressive.

The return leg had some shortcut options were the road down turned one-way and went down in a steeper direction, but it was quite safe. I had followed a mountain bike trail earlier and imagined how good the descent would be for them, once over the cold it would be quite a ride.

With altitude the descent quickly brings around an improvement in feelings, but it was still around an hour before we felt 'normal' again. Hadn't suffered headaches or anything, but our mouths and throats had dried, and our breathing had certainly suffered along with our concentration.

The valley once again and the colourful strata showed their other face and we had different light so the whole magical experience was at least as good as when we'd come up. we were unable to get more than a few kms without stopping for another photograph. Whether they will ever catch the light and the colour we won't know until we see the pictures properly.

It was a stunning ride, absolutely stunning. Once again the scenery seemed to have surpassed itself.

Now we were down at a much lower level we were amongst the goat herder encampments and received friendly waves as we passed, especially from the children who would run out as we approached.

Around one corner we met a troupe of mules loaded up with crates etc. As we pulled up to take a picture a few of the guys came over and had a great (if limited on our part) conversation. They were obviously impressed with our steel mule, and particularly the luggage systems ! They offered that we join them for a drink, which they appeared to have been doing for a while, but we decided regaining our passports and getting back before dark was our priority. Shame really as they were great characters, and not just friendly because of the drink. They asked of conditions up there, and had obviously stopped their journey because the weather looked so bad.

A funny thing happened at the customs post, no not any problems you might imagine, but our return being a good opportunity for a weather forecast. They had clearly shut the Chilean side and there was a queue of 10 cars. The people waiting came across to ask how bad the conditions were. I guess other returning vehicles that had gone during the storm had reported it, and from below it looked bad, so they had closed the access. I think they thought we were mad as they clearly didn't believe us saying it was fine.

When I went to retrieve the passports - no issues at all - they also wanted a report and were surprised we had said we encountered no difficulties, maybe the Argentinean side was worse, or maybe those returning had just painted a vivid picture. At near 5000m this is not a pass to be taken lightly, and I suppose they do right to err on the side of caution.

Still, all the same it was odd being back in a hot hot valley after all that and the wind was howling along compared to earlier.

Our return journey to Vicuna was delightful with virtually no traffic, and views the other way. the remnants of the Inca Way were visible most of the time. it is incomplete, but there is a 3km section you can walk that would have been nice if it weren't for the time.

The other thing was we needed to be back for some food, naught since breakfast, the usual stale roll with cheese - all one of it, and we'd just had water during the day as no facilities anywhere. We had booked the astronomical tour again in hope we could go.

To cut to the quick we got the tour, if nearly an hour late and took a minibus with three French tourists up the mountain behind the village. When we arrived at the observatory we were staggered by the amount of people. We had thought it would just be us, there were hundreds of folk there, amazing.

We were added to English speakers and then split into groups and taken around. First was the 30 inch telescope in the dome. Like kids we were all impressed with the rotating top ! First we all took turns to see Saturn, which appeared as a remarkably small, but clear image, rings clearly visible. Next we saw two parts of the moon with the level of clarity startling - in fact it burnt your retina after viewing like a flashgun does.

Following this we went outside and the guide took us through the various stages of a stars life. From this I'm able to accurately describe what we've been seeing in the Milky way. The two 'cloudy' bits I described as nebula were actually galaxies ! The dark area was a carbon nebula, absorbing rather than reflecting light.

He showed us the nebula near Orion’s belt, forget the name, but the gas clouds were clearly visible. We saw other aspects in the sky also and overall it was very impressive. As it was a full moon the views were nowhere near as good as you'd expect (except the moon of course !)

You forget we are on the other side of the planet and therefore upside-down, all the stars are the other way around, Orion standing on his head for instance.

We had a presentation inside after that was a little lost on us as by know it was 1am. We returned and drank the remnants of a local fortified wine, Huancara, that was very nice, introduced by the Jesuits, and used by us to help guarantee a good nights sleep !

A late night, but an excellent way to round off a superb day.

Tuesday 14th February 2006

Vicuña - Caldera

477 kms

Leaving as ever on a hot and clear skied day we had another day of Pan Am to get us further up this long thin strip of a country.

We were well and truly away from fertile land excepting the oasis valleys every now and then. By late afternoon we were definitely into desert scenery with little of anything but sand. We headed for this place as by coast and a contrast to the previous couple of weeks travel. Not too much here by way of accommodation, and with it being height of season all is costly - whatever the quality. But we needed a place for the day, and tomorrow so booked in.

Wednesday 15th February 2006

Caldera

0 kms

We had a true rest day today doing virtually bugger-all but sitting on rocks on a beach, or the beach near the hotel.

It's a funny old place as there are remnants of heavy industry like coal and iron export, a small active fishing fleet, and then beaches. There are some very clean ones further down the coast - including an English beach too ! but we stayed in town. The rubbish etc was unbelievable it's really a third rate country on that score, but the sun was intense and the breeze warm.

The highlight of the day was certainly the morning when the local boats had come in and were selling their catch at the quayside. You bought your fish, then went and paid to have them gutted. This was spectacle enough - but it was what was waiting for the cast offs that was most impressive.

A large flock of very large Pelicans were crowding the scene and two sea lions were muscling in below.

The pelicans are such cumbersome beasts on land, but on the wing are such effortless fliers. Their abilities with their mouths are amazing too, not in quantity terms this time, but speed and reflex. The filleters would chuck something behind them and it never ever touched the ground, ever time in a bill !

We have been able to identify some of the fish we have eaten from stalls and the likes of today which is helpful. The oddity today was - I think - sea urchins being prized from holes in soft mudstones. Cracking it open was like watching someone separating scull and removing eyes, not very appetizing.

10th February 2006 - Ovalle

0 kms

As we've had another rest day, with little but a fine haircut and beard trim, which was carried out better than you'd get at home and for considerably less, we thought it might be good to highlight one or two things we discovered in our travels that otherwise wouldn't be covered.

Language - After trying to learn some basic Spanish on previous trips to Spain we knew how different a language it is to ours. I spent a year at night classes just a few years ago, and although I found it very difficult, I persevered. Bev spent many hours going to and from work with CDs in the car, and learnt a surprising amount before we left. When we arrived we hardly expected to be fluent as neither of us is anything like a natural at picking up foreign languages, but we did expect to return with - probably unrealistically - fairly reasonable Spanish conversation.

Well, we have been disappointed! We were doing OK up until we got to Chile I'd say, but here it's like another language again. Each country has different dialects and wholly different words, but at least you can make yourselves understood. OK at some times we have really struggled in the other countries, but here we have hit the blank stares more times than I can understand. Tonight we had the greatest of difficulties when just getting something simple. We are at a loss to explain that. In Uruguay and Paraguay we seldom struggled, and never really have difficulties in Argentina, but off the beaten tracks in Chile it seems totally different to the off the beaten tracks in the other countries.

We can get by, but we are far from being able to hold a conversation. I remember the point, fairly early on, in Argentina, were I had a total conversation with a guy about where we were from, what we were doing, were we were going, and how we loved the trip. Obviously it was because at that point he said ' Chau' and that was it. But I remember that as a real success. Since then we seem to have gained naught. It's very strange, as we can't use English, and we aren't relying on other people.

Lets see how we get on for the remainder of the trip.

And finally on language, a bonus! We've mentioned before how some words are similar, or very similar.

Hey kids, it's competition time.

Here’s some words, try to think of the South American (in case anyone picks me up) words for:-
Cement
Rhubarb
Magnetic
May

Well the answers are :-
Cemento
Rhubarbo
Magnetico
Mayo

So there are some advantages, but it works far from every time. Beero for instance will get you bugger all in the way of beer, and barco....well it isn't Spanish for dog! You can see were the Scorchio sketch comes from in the Fast show for sure!

Toilets - I've not raised this one up until now. Those that have been to Greece (we haven't) may be familiar with the small bore sewerage systems and their requirements, but for those unfamiliar, you don't flush paper etc down the toilet. The paper you use is put in a receptacle next to the toilet. This is common to virtually all South American toilets. It takes some getting used too, and I'm not sure what happens to all that paper. You’d hope it was burned rather than going into the bins, but we've no idea.

The standard of toilets, as you can imagine, varies considerably. Virtually no 'Turkish' style ones though. Just cleanliness. Some have been out of this world disgusting. When you find really clean ones it is a surprise. Chile gets a thumbs up here as they are above average. Hell, there's usually paper and hand cleaner. But in many of the other countries the toilets, even in good establishments, can be truly awful.

As there is virtually no maintenance carried out on most things - something all of us travelers have picked up on - you often find no door locks, or even doors that won't close. All things that could be fixed in minutes, but just no one ever bothers.

You'll be pleased there's no photo's with this one!

Hopefully when we return we will adapt to the norm, but as a precaution, I'd` remove your toilet side bins if we're visiting in the first month or so of our return !

Bottles - Now this is an important topic! There is a real problem here with getting bottles of beer, and one we have all encountered at some strange and cannot figure out. When you go to get a bottle (litre size) of beer you often find you cannot buy it! After a couple of times you figure out it is because the bottles are returnable and you have to take an empty back. Fine, great idea, but. How do you ever get the first bottle? It's a chicken and egg one isn't it. You cannot get the beer you want without an empty unless some charitable soul charges you the deposit, or just gives up trying to explain.

There must be some heavy fines or something as in Paraguay for instance we literally couldn't get a bottle of beer in a shop. You can buy Bud in little bottles (not bloody thanks) beer of any type in cans, but not the one you really want in a litre bottle.

It does vary, as here there are 'throw away' bottles (as everyone does judging from the hedge backs) but they are never the nice brands you want. They do some fine ales around and about and a few 'malt' ones that are dark and very much to our taste, and nearly always bloody returnable ones.

We would just like to know how to get that first bottle.

There is even the same problem with the large bottles of fruit juice etc sometimes.

Gringos - Well, obviously we know we stand out, but it's unbelievable how much. People literally stand and stare even when we're dressed casual and walking around town. Often we are off the beaten track and you’d expect some interest, but it's amazing. It's how the first West Indians must have felt in the UK (I'm talking a long time ago here) there is no malice; it's just a surprise. It’s not always where all the indigenous peoples are otherwise it would be more understandable, but generally it is. As soon as you get away from the more popular centers you find there are less western faces, particularly so here in Chile, but also in the other countries we've visited.

We've never suffered real Gringo problems like over-charging (or have we?) and we've only extremely rarely felt uncomfortable about any charges we doubted.

The one positive discrimination you come across nearly everywhere that is annoying is at parks and heritage sites. Apparently it is entirely correct to charge none residents substantially more than residents, this means when you go to say Moreno Glacier you are charged at least three times more, and at other sights it can be six times more, just for exactly the same thing.

Some locals say 'it's just like when we go to London' but of course it isn't. It’s expensive for them, but they are paying the same price we do.

It's all a bit odd in our book, and we've met several folk who have had a good old go at putting that point across. Of course the people collecting the tariffs have no say in it, but it strikes everyone as pure Gringo Pricing and I think it is. It's not like it's the difference between say 70p and £3, it's the difference between figures like £5 and £20 which is bloody considerable.

Directions - here's a good tip. If you want to find somewhere in a medium sized town, give up on the wandering around fruitlessly (particularly after dodgy local directions) take a taxi - after checking price. It’s 50p well spent, and you can walk back when you discover it's only round the corner from were you were at some point previous. Here there are 'collective taxis' that pick up anyone, not just you, and stick to a route, like the tube, going round and round. Somehow you'll figure out which number to pick and it saves hours! No good on the bike though - though I have considered asking 'how much to' and then following them!

Anyway that sounds like more whinging, but I can assure you it isn't, it's observations that might forewarn or be helpful..

Saturday 11th February 2006

Ovalle - Vicuña, via, Coquimbo & La Serena

167 kms

Leaving this morning it was uncharacteristically cool and grey, too cold for jacket and trousers without liners but we couldn't be bothered stopping to put them in.

Leaving the hotel, tight squeeze, but secure

The bike slipped out the way it had come from the courtyard via a just wide enough doorway. We had a quick look up the road back towards toward to admire how much of an oasis this place is, quite impressive irrigation over centuries.

The oasis that is Ovalle, arid beyond the valley

The ride up to the coast was on some nice twisty roads at one point, but views shrouded in low cloud and then it was the normal main line drags until we neared habitation.

The two towns are quite large, and almost joined. Coquimbo was the smaller on an impressive headland giving it a great harbor that was very busy with a market as we rode in. It was a little run down and rough, but had quite a lot going for it on the historic buildings and history front, but we didn't want to stay - it wasn't even mid-day. We followed a street to a headland and discovered a little fort type thing with great views of the rocky prominantry, breaking waves, a single Sea lion, and Pelicans amongst other seabirds. First time we've seen Pelicans and very nice too. More colourful than we expected with blues, yellows and reds on their beaks. It gives us the opportunity for one of Bev's quotes, "The Pelican, a bird whose bill can hold more than his belly can'. A great saying and so appropriate.

Pelicans at Coquimbo

Blue Footed Boobies (stand by for usual comments!) at Coquimbo

The other thing in town of interest is a church designed by Gustav Eiffel (of the tower) made of steel. We looked hard and thoroughly and found nothing! Shame, as by complete coincidence I was given a book a few years ago based on the building of it, I had no idea it was in Chile (short memory) so was weird to realise it was here (somewhere).

The second very weird thing was there was a small coffee bar playing some great ambient music that we both really liked, similar to something - Jah Wobble - we like in UK. I asked the guy to write down the name, Cafe de Mar a mix by Jose Padilla. I thought it was Chilean, and then remembered - I'm obviously getting old - it too was something I had heard a few years ago in UK and tried without success to find, how weird is that!

We actually went to a shop in a Mall to try and get it as the guy said they had it, but couldn't find it. Should be able to get it in UK, but weird eh!

La Serena was another good looking, but bigger, place. We would probably have been better staying in one of those for two days rather than were we did, but there you go! You can't do it all. There were lots of lovely historic building there and things to see.

We left the chaos of traffic, and it was, to head inland and by time we were half way to Vicuna things had heated up and it was roasting again.

Blue Vicuña, another oasis town. Pisco grapes and fruit

The towns are now taking on the style of Spain with low stories and inner courtyards and trees on footpaths. The place is baking and the surrounding hills are sparse of vegetation and bare. The area nearby is apparently on good lay lines and there are lots of alternative therapies and different life styles so it is a bit more of a chilled place. Lots of interesting hand made jewelry - i.e. not imported from Peru or Bolivia, and as only about 8000 population and with more tourists (not many European or US) it is a nice little spot.

Gone mad on the accommodation front price wise, but nice place, and we want two good nights as tomorrow we will have a late night as we are visiting the Observatory Cerro Mamalluca for a night visit to see the stars and view their telescopes which is something we are really looking forward too.

The one thing I never mentioned about the night sky here is that for the first time ever I have discovered there is a blank patch in the Milky way - you can actually see with the naked eye and area with no stars, never seen that before. So the skies have certainly lived up to and beyond expectation already, fingers crossed tomorrow will bring even more amazement....don't expect any photo's though!

Sunday 12th February 2006

Vicuña

Spent today chilling really, had a nice walk up to a viewpoint overlooking the town. It’s another Oasis ands they grow the grapes for the national alcoholic drink, Pisco, here. The way they get the dry land irrigated is really impressive.

Another, a stiff 30 min walk for view

The skies have heavily clouded over this afternoon and we have great reservations about what we really came here for. This valley is heralded as ´the greatest stargazing place on earth´….can you bloody believe it 

Grapes drying in the sun

However, last night they had some live local music (very Mexican, strong links with Chile for years) that was OK but not outstanding. Tonight? Rock concert. The bands have been tuning up and setting all the car alarms off like our bike does and they sound pretty good. Can’t think what the locals will think though as they are heavily into the traditional music and dance. It shows how we have lost that tradition when you see that nearly everyone can dance here….and no, I can’t, have to leave that to Bev.

Some great handicraft places around making some really nice stuff, particularly jewelry. It’s nice that it is made, as so much is from Bolivia or Peru generally.

It is hot here mind, cool breeze occasionally, but in thirties, and they get very little rain, under 120mm a year, except for tonight………

7th February 2006 - Curacautin via Villaricca - Coelemu

370 kms

We were greeted with grey skies and a very little light mizzle that luckily never turned into anything, and at least it was considerably cooler, in fact only 10 degs when we left, but soon rose.

We travelled from the fruit basket area to the forestry zone today, very reminiscent of the wooded areas of Germany and also Portugal once into Eucalyptus woods.

We hit the doldrums today. We seem to be riding rather than travelling. I guess it has to happen at some point, but it was almost getting boring. We travelled out to the coast at Concepcion and it has some very long bridges over the river and to one of Chile's main ports, so not too exciting, and it's the third largest city so we wanted to avoid going into it which we did.

What we didn't manage to do was pick up a small road we wanted to continue on.

We got in Tome and spent a long and fruitless time trying to get out. It was a shambolic places spread over hillsides above a popular beach and bay. There was no end of road works causing chaos and with the intermittent intercom we struggled to get out. The sad fact of travelling as two is when you have an argument it is the worst possible situation. So we hit a bit of a low point as we argued rather than pulled together. It can't all be plain sailing though and we did manage to resolve our difficulties all round.

From that point on we just wanted to call it a day and find some accommodation, but we had lost a lot of time and so never found anywhere until about 7 which is far too late to unwind after a hectic and rather warm day.

The place we found was fine from a room perspective as it was quiet and we had a bathroom for a fiver each, but the woman running it was the wrong person. She had the air of 'whatever' to any of our questions, and it was only the maid / cook that made the place more cheerful.

We decided to eat in and met a local guy as we walked in. I thought he actually was German as he spoke to us in German and his accent was so think. Turned out he was second generation Chilean but still a lot German. It's a real surprise how German Chile is when you're out and about. there was an abstract sight today when we pulled up at the peage and I noticed the guy driving the car in font of us was wearing an SS camouflage jacket and a genuine WWII Nazi helmet....what the hell was all that about ?

Anyway our 'friend' was certainly not of that type, but it was very hard work with him speaking German, and some English, and me trying to remember my German. By the end of the evening we were both worn out. It's interesting talking to folk, but you know what it's like when someone has had a few drinks and you just think 'We'd like some space now' but you can't get it as nowhere to go. A strange and tiring evening indeed.

We did at least get some insights to Chile from him. Their new government has a female head and is socialist which may swing things too far left for the countries old masters, but generally people are in favour. Even though the era of Pinochet brought dictatorship and thousands of deaths a lot of folk don't think it was that bad and want to let sleeping dogs lie.

The contrasts in wealth are extreme here, I can't remember what he said, but they are very extreme.

Wednesday 8th February 2006

Coelemu - Paine (south of Santiago)

Say 540 kms

Well we got a bit out of our Doldrums today’s, but then the end of the day brought a return before an 'unexpected twist', more later.

We started on the heavy forestry front as we ended last night, couldn't see the wood for the trees, very Finnish if it weren’t for the hills and the twisty roads.

Barring the memory of coming across a wagon that had overrun a bend and crashed into the other side spilling it's cargo of gas bottles all around the road the road would have been very sporting. It was a little like some of those in the south of France near the coast were the bends come so thick and fast you can't believe it and have to really be on the ball. So anyway it was cautious bend swinging that led very quickly to two subsequence changes of scenery quite rapidly.

Following the heavily wooded landscape was a heavily depleted landscape with new Eucalyptus saplings all a round. Hardly used to that we were suddenly upon harsh arid baked lands with the distant Andean peaks on the horizon, almost spectacular, but I think they we grow in magnificence a they grow in height further up the chain (hope so !)

Andes in distance

The area was again extremely poor with the local populace clearly having a hard time of it, it was arid scrub and all the affluence was passing through. Looking back on our trip up the Careterra Austral that was what it was too, the richer folk from Santiago going on their holidays.

We d skipped breakfast this morning due to not wanting to get up early - good choice as we didn't sleep that well anyway, think ours minds were so tired after our entertaining host. We were on the look out for a cake and coffee shop, but that was a hopeless task as we really were in a poor rural area. We stopped in one reasonable size town and went to a 'cafe'. It looked pretty dire and the young lass serving looked terrified of us when we walked in (soon realised we were nothing to fear I'm pleased to say). Needless to say there were no cakes - in fact haven't seen any cakes in Chile, just bread in shops - and the coffee was finest (not) powdered Nescafe.

We got some bananas and water further down the road by way of sustenance. We were then into some of the vineyards for a further scenery change, but it wasn't too stunning...boredom was setting in again!

Now we have passed the main arable areas it is obvious that there are some large production plants and the like and you can see where the wealth is coming from. However you can also see the other side, which is the people having a very hard time of it indeed.

Hit the Pan Am after quite a bit of back road travelling (and hurrah, no tolls until the Pan Am) to get well up near Santiago so we can bypass it tomorrow, big cities are not our thing, and a bit pointless on a motorcycle holiday anyway.

On the basis of big road, little road we aimed for a little place near Rancagua (bad water ?!) up in the mountains, in fact Colon or Sewell. There was one major snag!

As we were climbing up what they termed the Careterra Cobra there were an alarming number of new coaches coming down, not a few, stacks, more than for a football game, even international. What was going on?

I had a clue as there was a road to a mine shown, but I hoped I was wrong as we intended heading to the hills for the night to escape the heat. In the morning it was perfect blue sky and really comfortable at 25 degs so OK on the bike with trouser liners out and jacket ones in, but by say 3pm things are warming up considerably and it's linings out and vents open but still you are starting to sweat at 35. A night in the mountains would give us a chill which would be good.

So, by nearly 5 we got to a junction that had the place on we wanted and as we turned left there was a sentry gate. Thought I'd ask, but the guys in hard hats with lamps on told us what I feared, no public access. This must be one huge mine I'd guess, or maybe a big construction job, but I'd put money on a mine..

Bugger, tried the next village but it was obviously a mining town clinging to the steep hillside, and no accommodation was forthcoming. The only other possibility was a thermal baths on map, but it was 35 quid each with breakfast so we ruled that out.

We returned to Ruta 5 and Rancagua but managed not to find anything immediately there and it was too big for our preference. To cut a boring story short we tried some other small places, asked a few people and ended up at a Motel on side of road at Paine.

Now I sat Motel, as that is what it says in big letters outside. There is a word missing in front, that word is 'Love', and that word makes all the difference I can assure you.

When we pulled up I asked the lady watering the garden how much it was and she gave me a price per hour......that's when we realised it was a Love Motel and not the normal sort. I asked for a price per night and she said 10,000 for 12 hrs. Very specific. So we have to leave by 8.30 in morning, unusual.

We were well knackered by time we arrived there at 8 and thought 'what the...' we'll take it. In actual fact you get A LOT of privacy, very secure and discreet parking and your own bathroom, so for the price it's not bad. Even the drinks are reasonable price even thought brought to a serving hatch in the wall.

Best to overlook how many people have been through here, but let’s face it, a lot of folk go through old hotels too. It is clean and tidy, so I guess little different. Still it does have the overtones of sleaze, the mirrored wall is a little unusual for a hotel, but at least it's not a round bed. By staying twelve hours I'm sure we'll impress the locals!!!

We are far from the first motorcycle travellers to have ended up in one of these places, and we won't be the last.

Thursday 9th February 2006

Paine (south of Santiago) - Ovalle

450 kms

Well as our allocated slot at the Love Motel ended after 12 hrs we were forced into our first 'early' start for a while, that being 08.30, your heart bleeds eh !

We nipped back to a petrol station for breakfast as none was included in our 'motel'. It's a sad day when you say the coffee at the petrol station is the best you can get, but it's true, the machine was better than all the coffees we've had for breakfast in Chile. Sad but true.

Biscuits for the Hein Gericke wearer

The plan was to get past Santiago, but as loose as that. Bev had suggested Ovalle as a destination, but I'd said "that's far too far". Well, that's the wonder of being on dual carriageway roads again I guess!

Santiago was actually passed rather more easily than I thought. Not much in the way of suicide merchants, but you did have to pay attention, not that much worse than any UK major ring road.

The one thing (Okay, okay, there's loads I know) that bugs me with the Chilean drivers is their 'goldfish' mentality. How’s that I hear you say. Well, watch the toilet habits of your average bowl habiting goldfish and it will all be explained, it works like this. The goldfish is swimming around his bowl. "I'll have a poo" he says, so he starts, then he thinks 'what was I doing ?' swims a bit, and thinks 'I'll have a poo', swims a bit thinks 'what was I doing', etc , etc , etc. you get the idea. That’s why goldfish swim around with a length of poo half the time; their attention span is that short they forget what they're doing.

So what's the connection then ?

Well, a standard manoeuvre here is a car will be behind you on the Pan Am for a way, then overtake, then slow, so you re-overtake, etc etc. Consistent speed just evades them (not all of course) and after a while it really bugs me. Especially when there is so little traffic compared to UK.

And that's saying nothing of the other thing that really bleeps me off, and will be recognisable to most UK cyclists. The ...ahem..... folk that overtake you then immediately turn off. That is actually really dangerous in towns were it's prevalent all round SA so far, but here it's popular on the Pan Am, must be some sad Latino Machismo thing going on. Anyway they soon get the message from us as they're going down the slip.

None of this is to be mistaken with the car that overtakes, slows, you overtake and then they pass again with their digital cameras out, quite common

Lots of odd things happened on the road today, no, not showers of frogs or the like, but strange things in themselves that you can't capture but in words or you memories.

As you head north you leave the obviously more habited and prosperous areas where there are big concerns and lots of affluent local traffic, and you start heading through the hills that become more and more arid the further you go.

There are a few oases, where there are huge tracts of greenery due to irrigation. The amount of stalls at the roadside prove the success. Huge mounds of fruit like oranges, melons, and the like. Watermelon, Sundias (I think that’s right) are huge and fantastic here, but no good buying on bike even at 70p for one the size of a pannier. The sellers are at the roadside (imagine that on the M1) or on short lengths of service road so provided. This so far all quite 'normal'.

Yesterday we passed areas that had carved stone emporiums and wicker ware and the like, only for a few miles, then nothing, then something completely unrelated.

Today we had some real weirdies. Firstly ladies (and some gents) in white aprons and hats stood or sat by the roadside with hampers but wildly waving sticks with white plastic bags as tassels to garner attention. Quite flamboyance at times in their routines. But we have no idea what it was they were selling. It said 'dulces' on a tourist sign for the town, which I think is sweet, but other than that we're lost. Don't think it was honey as seen that before and more obvious, the jars give it away.

Much, much further up, in the arid hills were there is little habitation, and less vegetation, we came across signs saying goat, or kid, which helps a lot, but at one point it all got a lot stranger. A guy at the side of the road lifted up the cloth he had hung over his arm to expose a kid with the rack of ribs splayed outwards in a disturbing way. It was like he was showing you some illegal item, or something you shouldn't see. What a way to make a living. This is nothing, and I mean nothing, like the lives of the prosperous 4x4s speeding past to their holidays (or flash foreigners on their hideous motorcycles either).

So that was weird. Another thing that is hard for your average softie westerner to appreciate, luckily I'm not soft like that, is the animals here. Dogs, as mentioned previously, are not pets in 99% of times, and are obviously beaten into submission as they rarely approach you in small villages and will cower. (We’ll ignore the bike chasing, which I'm trying too, but I can't resist the opportunity for an upward stroke with my foot generally). You see dogs in packs, after bitches on heat - the only thing that seems to make them forget to chase us, and that’s a pretty poor sight generally, but you often see dogs limping around hat have obviously survived horrendous incidents, missing feet or legs that even I feel sorry for.

But the worst was today. At a petrol station there was a cat that I guess had been run-over, and one half its back end was blackened and matted with flies swarming around it. It had obviously been like that a little while, but was limping and dragging itself along to the tables outside the cafe. Even the locals looked appalled, but that's what you see here - imagine it at home. Not a chance, someone would take it home and to a vet or something, but not here. And this is Chile, not even a country I'd guess was too bad, I expect it further up in Peru or Bolivia, but not here. Probably worst sight we've seen when travelling, animal wise that is, I'm afraid it pales into insignificance with the hardships of some of the people.

Anyway, the Pan Am stretches right through Chile and in many of the northern sections it is the only tarmac road there isn't a lot of route choice for the majority of our day now. It’s well surfaced and pretty new so far, a two lane blacktop stretching forever and climbing some drags that has trucks down to 15 or 20mph on crests, and it places close to out of control on descents. Amazingly we haven't seen a foreign plate in days, I'd think we'd see the odd Arg plate, or even Peru, but on the Pan Am everything to date has been Chilean, surprising to me.

The Pan America

The other thing is post mid-day we were up to where the road follows closely the sea. The first sights of the Pacific (sounds nice that does !) breaking against rugged rock headlands and sending spray 10's of feet into the air are impressive indeed.

We went into Los Villos briefly, a real ramshackle seaside resort that was heaving with this being the peak holiday season and only a couple of hours from the capitol. We were star attraction briefly as I guess not many foreign tourists visit - can you imagine Skeggie being over-run with Chileans: exactly!

The scenery really got arid as we moved further north as most of the vegetation was replaced by succulents and cacti, some of those large cartoon type ones which were starting to flower spectacularly. They were even laid out in lines to create prickly hedges which were impressive.

Cacti scenery

Flowering cacti

Detail of flower

The funny thing all the while was it was quite sunny but as soon as we headed over the hills from Santiago the sea breeze blew in, and by the coast it commanded the weather, making actually quite nippy, even the odd shiver. When you stopped though, it felt warm, very odd.

Leaving the relative coolness of the coast to travel 33kms inland to Ovalle you certainly felt the difference, boy did it warm up! Ovalle sits in a valley that is obviously very well irrigated, and like the fertile valleys of Ladakh in India, comes as a shock being verdant green amongst the parched yellow stark surrounding land.

It isn't a pretty town, and all those western looking faces of the Lake District area are long gone. We stand out like a saw thumb, and once again have developed second if not third heads. Still, rough it may be, but there are plenty of diamonds.

Our accommodation is a little past sell by date, but has a charming host, and the bike resides in the courtyard after a very tight entry up the pavement and down the corridor. At least the place cools at night, but it's bloody hot during the day I guess. We’ll find out as we will be here a couple of nights to catch up on one or two bits and pieces.

On the bike front we now have a spreading oil leak but at the moment it's not losing enough to drip, just being absorbed by all the dust matting the bike head to foot. The master cylinder is still leaking and being routinely filled up, but perhaps I will have to strip it down yet. The exhaust blows a bit on the left pot, and a couple of minor bits have fallen off, but otherwise fine, we just take it easy and cruise at 100 - 110 kph. The old girl has done well......and the bike too !

4th February 2006 - Puerto Montt

0 kms

Well today loomed with grey and leaden skies so our plans were scuppered even before started. No beach option, and no ride out to see the scenery options, in fact, a further 'in town' day.

It could have been an uneventful day, but it wasn't ! We spent most of time wandering around seeing the place, not museums and stuff, just streets and people.

In 43 years I've hardly been a victim of crime, couple of minor incidents in past, a bike nicked, but otherwise nothing. In all the years traveling there has never been an incident, a few sharp folks, or 'errors' but no direct street crime or other incidents. Today that changed....or nearly did I guess!

We got toward hungry o'clock and aimed for a small place not too far away that was quite busy, in fact only two tables free, guess thirty people in. We choose one table for two that was a bit on its own and between two doorways, the entrance to each toilet as it turned out. But as quite a small place it was a good table.

The staff were great and we continued our quest for good cheap local food with Pastel de Choclo for me and a seafood soup for Bev. The Pastel should not confuse you, although it's Spanish for cake, in this case it's a pie with meats and egg and olive with a puree of sweet corn on top....a strange Sheppard’s pie type thing. The waitress asked it I wanted sugar with it which must be habit, but not for me. Bev's seafood soup was wonderful for her, but although I'm enjoying the fish I'm afraid shellfish does nothing other than disgust me so the soup was far from my idea of a good meal, Bev of course loved it though as it was everything she likes in one bowl.

So moving apace to the crux of the matter, we had Bev's small daypack with my Palms and card reader and like in, but nothing else of value, sat against the wall at my feet, safe enough we thought. Out of sight in a quiet spot.

The first thing I noticed was a guy in a grey suit come in behind Bev and talk to a waitress, I eyed him and there was just something not right, his suit was too threadbare for the way he was trying to wear it, sounds strange, but he wanted to give the air of someone in a suit, but the suit didn’t match. I didn't think too much of it, but did clock him.

Meanwhile Bev saw a guy come in and ask to use the bathroom.

Bev looked over my shoulder and thought the guy had fallen as she could see his arm on the floor, and was about to say to me 'see if that guys OK'.

Then she noticed her rucksack moving through the door !

Bev leapt up and opened the door and the guy was rolling up his sleeves to open it and Bev snatched it back and quickly told me what had happened.

In all this time the staff and customers hadn't noticed anything other than wonder why Bev had leapt to the Gents bog suddenly.

The guy had left and I sprinted out of the cafe and grabbed him virtually by the throat, pulling his buttons off his shirt and his sunglasses and somehow his jacket into the process.

The owner came out and shouted thief (in Spanish) as I was chucking his jacket and glasses at him with him doing the 'what me' bit.

Thinking back I'm amazed of two things. One that I didn't keep hold of him and suggest the police - the staff would have happily done that, and two, that I didn't lay into him. Probably luckily all round.

The guy in the suit was outside too with I think a lady so it was a well planned action and but for Bev's good sight and reaction would have all happened with us not being aware for a few moments at least.

The staff were quite supportive but there was nothing more to do than enjoy the rest of our meal as we ran it over and over in our heads like you do in such circumstances. Bev had heard the guy in the suit click which must have been a message to the other one.

Invariably these people are slippery customers and generally not violent, certainly not in the context of a cafe environment, but the slight of hand if you can call it that was amazing really. You have to be criminally minded to be able to think how easy it is to do.

With hindsight you can see several things to avoid, but of course these folk are one step ahead anyway. We are I would say pretty vigilant to theft and pick pockets etc but they are fast and smooth operators pit against the best of foes.

Obviously after that everyone looks like a criminal, but this is such a rare occurrence you can't judge everyone the same. It might be the first time, but I wager it won't be the last time during this trip we have such an incident. This time we were lucky! There are so many variables in all these incidents that could have happened that would have made the crime perfect, but very few that would prevent it realistically.

We returned to the accommodation and retuned the items of any value before returning to town to enjoy the rest of our day. We rarely carry stuff with us for just such a reason. If you were too vigilant you wouldn't go anywhere or see anything. Then your stuff would be nicked in your room!

Sunday 5th February 2006

Puerto Montt - Osorno

239 kms

Well a very welcome return to tarmac for the majority of the day, and in fact for part an acquaintance with a road that will become our companion for many a mile from this point onwards, the Pan America, Ruta 5.

We left Puerto Montt on another grey cloudy threatening day. The views seaward for our first two days were exquisite. If you overlooked the tower crane (rather a feat) across the bay stretch the high and lengthy run of hills stretching far south that we had followed for days. In the far distance you could see a few snowy summits that must have been a 100kms away. Off left were two volcanoes some 40 or 50kms distant to the east. One was fractured and less picturesque, the other a perfect snow cap so reminiscent of Fuji, or of course Lanin the volcano north of Bariloche that we visited oh so long ago. This peak though was Osorno, and was to be our close companion most of the day until we reached the town bearing the same name.

Osorno Volcano

We rode off out of town on Ruta 5 (henceforth to be called Pan Am) and diverted east towards Ensenada on the coast of Lago Lanquihde which we would circumnavigate during our travels.

It is a popular route as it is one, and a very scenic one at that, route to get to Argentina and bariloche involving ferry crossings and some apparently stunning views. However we weren’t going that whole way so only know the initial stretch..

As the weather was a bit of a disappointment first thing, though we shouldn't complain as the threatened rain didn't materialise, the views of the looming peak of Volcano Osorno were late coming.

Volcano and road

The first we knew of it was when the cloud broke to show the upper slopes of snow even with the bottom and top still concealed. And my, what a sight even that was in it's self. The area is very touristy due to this presence and that's no surprise. Photogenic is not the word.

We had a brief return to repio as we passed through a national park, but it wasn't too bad and there was light traffic.

Once on the far side we were in for quite a surprise! The scenery and everything turned not so much a 'little like Germany', so much as like 'a little Germany'

Like Puerto Montt, this area was largely colonised by the Germans way back in the 1850's and there are Germanic names everywhere and obvious stylistic references.

What was a surprise was the sudden emergence of pastoral scenes that would have you believe you were in Europe and amongst the Tyrol’s of Germany or Austria. The sight of Friesian cows and large timber barns would fool you into believing you had had be teleported away from were you where.....except. All the time there was that huge snow capped volcano looming above the landscape. I can honestly say it's like nothing we've seen before, as if someone had created a montage of views of two separate countries.

Germany or Japan? Niether!

Some of the buildings were absolutely specifically German and it was hard to believe you were actually in Chile I had to keep taking photographs as the contrasts were sublime.

The road is such a shock too, I can almost feel the bike sighing. At one point I changed down and accelerated past a car and was horrified to see over 120kph appear on the speedo. Bloody hell, not that it's that fast, but I can assure you it is warp factor (how many Star Trek references can you get in one report?). After what we've had in the last few weeks (or lifetime as we call it!)

We continued on round the lake to Puerto Octay, which had been circled on the map after discussions in BA with a German couple who came this way a couple of years ago, and we called by for a look to remember why it was so circles. Angela and Axel had - I think - said it was a remarkable German village. And it was, so much German architecture including the church and convent and several other building some of which were sadly in decline

We were a bit peckish by this stage so were looking for somewhere to eat. A small Hospedaje (Hostelry rather than hostel) appeared that looked nice and traditional so we pulled up. Yet again another good choice. Though the meals were just salmon and chicken they were very good indeed and cheap too. We were thinking, and in all the time we've been over here we reckon we can only remember two crap meals which is quite an achievement when you think about it, afraid the UK couldn't match that level of satisfaction.

Once more unto the round we continued to Frutillar which sits serenely by the lake side with black sand lakeside beaches and a stunning view of Osorno. There is a famous musical festival annually here - we saw it on the TV the other day - and it's here now so was very busy!

We had completed our round and so hit the Pan Am for our onwards journey to Osorno the town. We wouldn't choose to run into another large place, but as we are tyre hunting it was the most likely place. There is a tour company runs out of here on BMW F650's at the least, so we guessed we might be able to get a tyre.

The other unwelcome surprise in Chile is that bikes pay on the toll roads, it came as a very unwelcome addition to the expensive costs of the juice. It's only a small fee, but it all adds up. The road is very good of course, not too exciting, but well presented and in excellent shape, which is good for mileage crunching spells which we will need to get up north with good time.

We reached Osorno in good time, say 5pm, but were grateful it was Sunday as this is a large place, population around 114,000, and not somewhere you want to jostle with traffic while trying to find accommodation. At least leaving is easier.

We aimed for the bus station as the cheaper accommodation is often in that area and true enough it was. The ones in the book didn't sound too promising - i.e. the ones in scrooge bracket - so we were happy to look around. The other thing with the guides is they seldom include anything on secure parking, which is a must with the bike as we don't want to unload everything every time we stop. We found a place with an elderly guy who understood Spanish perfectly and so Bev was struggling but we eventually found the parking was off street in their yard and ideal. The room too was large and reasonable with the one draw back on facing the road. The same one all the buses use all night. Ah well!

A brief walk into the centre confirmed several things, one that we have returned to having three heads! The thing that surprises people particularly it appears is our footwear. You can see them look at our boots and wonder, maybe they think we're retired skin heads or something, whatever, it's very strange. What makes it stranger is there are so many obvious descendants of the German colonisers so more people of blond or European looking stock. We can't figure out what it is that's so unusual about us. Hell, I wasn't even wearing my shorts!

There are several older buildings in town that show obvious German styles including some fine mansions in timber and some 20's style concrete ones. However, the thrust is modern with the inevitable shopping mall being the place to be. Had some very nice, and costly, coffees in one café. Hard to believe you are offered hot water and a tin of Nescafe virtually everywhere you go, real coffee doesn't exist outside decent cafes.

Hopefully we can find a new tyre and return to our village lifestyle. Our plan, if there is such a thing, is to do part of the day on the Pan Am, and exit it for some back road interest towards our chosen destination so we don't endure endless miles of boredom, and still get to see the country up close and personal. We'll see!

Monday 6th February 2006

Osorno - Curacautin via Villarica

Say 340 kms

Having discussed the amazing qualities of the food we are enjoying I have to add one caveat, breakfasts. Basically forget them in all but exceptional circumstances. The breakfasts here range from truly appalling to mediocre, with very rare peaks above that. Generally it's coffee and bread and jam. I seem to recall in Arg we often got cakes, and even if the coffee wasn’t brilliant it was at least real. Chile is the absolute pits to date for breakfast, you would almost do better to skip it generally, and they are all surpassed any time we camp by what we have ourselves.

This morning 'offering' was as bad as they get. The usual Nescafe tub - with an even more inferior brand of powder within - and bread rolls and a cheese slices that smelt like they'd been stored in our bike boots overnight (and believe me I'm far from picky when it comes to cheese) and a jam that could only be described as such by colour. The texture was like sugary syrup and the flavour was like sweet cabbage, truly abysmal.....never complain about a continental breakfast again !

We had a plan to get a tyre before leaving and we tried a small Yamaha shop nearby but they had nothing I would wager Bev’s and my safety on. He said try Moto's Kuper (Los Carrera 1291, Osorno) and indeed their range was better, they had a choice, not much, but I got a Pirelli MT60 for 28000, under £30 and a tube for a fiver. The tyre is slightly more road bias but should serve us well, particularly as we have a lot of road miles ahead. At those prices I don't mind changing again before Bolivia (if we get that far).

They don't fit them so we had to find somewhere. I would swear by your typical roadside Gomeria that you see everywhere in Arg, but here they are less frequent, and usually called Vulcan something or other. As we were looking we saw a Pirelli tyre shop and so naturally pulled in there, like you would an ATS or so at home I guess.

That was probably not a good idea as they appeared to have no knowledge of motorcycles in the least. It was a tense affair getting the tyre fitted I have to say. It's never fun watching your bike being worked on by someone you can't entirely trust, and tyres are a very important safety feature on bikes.

The guy took an age getting the bead broken even with a machine; I certainly would have achieved that with my 6" BM levers in half the time. Watching him fit the new tyre and tube I was to say the least a lot concerned. It was obviously not something he had ever done on a bike with tubeless rims I’d guess. Once a screwdriver comes into play you really worry about the possibility of tube damage... you can tell if someone knows what they are doing, and clearly he didn't.

To cut a long story short with my assistance we got there in the end, but the sting was in the tale. It took too long to do and I think we paid for the frustration of the taxi driver who was waiting, nearly a fiver just for fitting. The compressor he insisted on using had as much power as my bicycle pump so the bead wouldn't pop.

Anyway, put it down to experience that one I think. Small places are nearly always better than the larger chains, same here as in UK.

We left Osorno with job done, and the hope we wouldn’t have to go anywhere that large again for some time, and hit the Pan Am for a while.

I keep thinking these accounts sound like one long whinge, but I hope that's not how they come across.

We followed our plan to do some major and some minor roads and headed once more towards volcanic peaks and the lakes of this famous area of Chile. It reminds us of the Danish lake district of southern England if you ignore the bloody great volcano smack bang in the picture. It's very pastoral this area, apparently (seed rep in tyre change place) produces most of the arable products for the whole country.

The Chilean Lake District

There was some nice scenery, but not as - how would you say - stunning as in other places. Pleasing to the eye, but not gob smacking (oh look at them with their 'look another volcano' attitude. Sad isn't it but we've seen a few recently, and the best ones were first).

The volcano at Villaricca differs in that it's still active (but safe). You can climb many of these, including this one, quite reasonably. The costs aren't too high and there is the added aspect that you still need proper skills with axe and crampon, but it would seem to selfish just for my pleasure even though Bev says I should.

Another Volcano, Villarica

We had intended stopping the night at Villaricca, but as we got there we just thought it's too big and touristy. OK it's the height of summer here, but we really do like the smaller places were you can wander around and see the place rather than be swamped in your surroundings. So we decided to hightail out of town and aim for somewhere smaller. The only draw back was it was later so we would be arriving at that somewhere too late to be able to really see it, but what the hell.

We rejoined the Pan Am and got north of Tumuco before turning once again east to Curacautin to a much smaller place about 50% bigger than Thirsk.

The roads running into the town were long and occasionally winding and passed through some pleasant scenery. At least the road could be trusted as earlier the paved road had be pock marked with nasty potholes in the most unexpected places. Since the Pan Am it is obvious were the money went north of Osorno.

As we pulled into town I thought I could make out a bike up ahead, as we got closer it was obviously several. It was a group of Colombian bikers on a month’s tour starting from Santiago. Pulled up for a brief chat as it was 20.30 and we had to find a place top stay, and it tuned out they still had to get to Tumuco. Quite a surprise to see the yellow Columbian plates, and to see the bikes. The ones we pulled up behind were two 1200's and an 1100. They didn't even recognise our bike as a BMW! Good God! They did however caress the panniers and marvel at the quality and size, so there's a market here Vern for sure. They had flown their bikes, but assured us was only 12 days to Columbia from here!

We arrived too late tonight so just took the first place we tried which is expensive by our standards, but it was the last room and at least it's en-suite. But £20 is more than we'd want to pay, but nearly 9pm we couldn't be arsed running around. (In a.m. turned out to be 12000, not 20,000, so actually excellent value, and with garage for bike too)

Eine Bier 1

Bit of a ramble tonight explained by the pictures of our beers. We nipped out for a light tea - great you can get egg and chips easily in SA and had a beer to accompany it. The lady said small medium or large and we went large. Large would normally be half a lire, near a pint, but here it was a litre stein. We'll sleep well tonight then! The waitress thought it was hilarious and it rounding the day great.

Eine Bier 2

31st January 2006 - Chaiten - Park Pumalin

60 kms

Went into town and bought ferry tickets for the 5 hr crossing as we didn't want to get stuck in the arse end of nowhere for two days. Tourist info very helpful.

We left town and hit the....you guessed it....awful repio again and after a short while detoured a couple of kms to Santa Barbara to look at the black sand beach. The beach was beautiful with an almost tropical feel with the vegetation being jungle like and stretching right to the sand. The sand so warm that the water from the exiting waves was evaporating in waves of steam. Definitely hat weather, as ever, for me to prevent serious head burn, not welcome with putting on and off helmets.

Blacksand

This was our first introduction to the 'whoppa' horseflies of this area. There have been horseflies like we get in UK for a while, and as per UK their bite is strong, but they are quite slow and easy to kill. The new type was altogether different. Huge in proportion, about an inch, and black with orange on and persistent as hell. Also keen fliers and not easy to let settle and swipe.

We continued on our way and met very very little traffic. The reason being the ferry from Park Pumalin is shown on the map as Caleta Gonzalez, suggesting a town or village. In fact, it's bugger all. An expensive cafe, info, and a campsite and very expensive cabins. The park is a huge area and bought by an American billionaire for conservation. It's a much heralded thing, but it looks very like the other huge areas of woodland either side stretching for miles in my book. Better done that not done though. So other than people going into the park, going for the ferry, there is not much else. The oncoming traffic only increases when the ferry has docked, at 8pm. So, very little traffic. And very little good road as you would by now expect us to say.

We met a pair of NZers on a BMW 650 and stopped for a while to chat, as you do on these occasions, before hitting one of the most dangerous and hideous 12kms of the route. Hideous indeed, even car drivers considered it ridiculous. Still, we made it, after an hour, and went to the cafe. It's set up on high principles (with which we agree) but that makes it very pricey as well as good. Pity the poor traveler who arrives here with no supplies and expects to find lodgings.

The campsite was 100m from the road...on foot ! So we had to porter the gear back and forth over a little wooden suspension bridge before we could even sort out the tent. Don't like leaving the bike alone, but little traffic, still don't see the point in not allowing parking nearer though.

We wandered off to ferry area and sat for a few hours watching the abundant wildlife in the bay. There were Sea lions aplenty, able to watch their antics through the binocs easily, Vultures, a huge Kingfisher, a small pod of dolphins and one or two other things. Very peaceful and tranquil I have to say. Even the Hebrides couldn't offer a more tranquil ferry port.

I have to say this is the first time during the trip when I have thought what are we doing, and questioned whether I was actually enjoying the adventure. At that point, the Careterra Austral was winning and knocking the enjoyment out of the trip. We had nearly broken its back though (and fortunately not it ours) so we could suspend such negativity soon.

We heard a couple of bikes turn up and wondered if it was anyone we knew. When we got to the campsite we discovered indeed it was as it was Thomas and Thomas the Germans we last saw at Torres del Paine.

The Thomases

We hadn't spent a lot of time together there as we were quite a large bunch, but they had been very nice and were here for only 3 months and had seen and done a lot so it was very fortuitous that we met up again. They too were happy to see us and brought news of our other traveler’s adventures that was good. We spent late into the evening chatting and really getting to know each other, great company. They were also planning to get the ferry in a.m. but had no tickets

Wednesday 1st February 2006

Park Pumalin - Conta

50 kms

We were up early for ferry, at least allowing us to return the favor for our neighbors who were putting their tent up too bloody close at near 1am.

It was cool that early as the valleys are steep sided and the tent was drenched in condensation, a problem - maybe the only one - of this model.

We all rode down to the ferry and were pleased to see it not packed so we could all board, in fact it was half empty. The other way, packed, as the capital, Santiago, empties for the hols.

Ferry

We lashed the bikes down as heard of others who had been damaged, but the crossing was in truth like a millpond for virtually the whole way. The views from the fjords of the steep sided densely wooded hillsides with cloud and mist burning off were terrific, worth the money for that alone almost. Some nature sightings, but they decreased the further away we got. Absolutely idyllic.

Sparkle

Lots and lots of sun so we enjoyed a good long chat outside and the crew were very friendly too, many cups of coffee, and Bev provided sandwiches, and it was like being island hoping with Caledonian MacBrien ferries in the Hebrides. Lots of time to chat and gather travel hints from the 2Ts.

We left half hour late and arrived after around five hours. Were mobbed by touts....dinner lady touts! Selling their seafood restaurant for lunch. We went to have lunch together before parting. Salmon and chips with sliced tomato's for 2,500 - under £3 and wonderful. Most Salmon farmed here as in Scotland and Norway. Damned good though, delicious, as was the lemon meringue as afters.

Left town together and soon after said our good byes as we would go separate ways down the road. We got all of about 3kms down the road before I noticed a strange rubbing sound from the front wheel...what the...

We pulled in and I was a bit perplexed. The tyre bead had popped off the rim for about 12 inches and the inner tube was bulging out! Oh my gawd!

Bulge

We were of course very lucky as within a very short period the 2Ts arrived. With one bike, even with two people, you're limited to your rescue options.

Needless to say with so many hands the job of removing the tyre was small, and the old TKC that we were still carrying was put back on with the tube. So, the MX tyre had done very little miles and was buggered. Thank goodness we'd kept the TKC as well. Being older it was more pliable and went on easier, though still with difficulty on the tubeless rim, The biggest problem was it didn’t seat properly, the bead was not seated fully in two places,. The Vaseline the 2Ts had was a good trick but the pressure we were getting in with a cycle pump wasn't enough. Thomas decided to return to the garage in town and get a compressor on it while the three of us played swat the horsefly. He returned with the job done and we were able to continue.

They said perhaps we should stick together and find somewhere to camp for the night. We heartily agreed as it would be good to spend another night together and be able to thank them for the days work properly with more Piscola and some food.

We were not in the best place to find camping but at one village a store owner suggested either by the river or on the seafront. The seafront was the best option but as we were putting the tents up a local carabineer pulled up on his bike and suggested we didn't. Not in an authoritarian way, but in a 'young people drink here and make trouble way' and the street lights are therefore bright and on all night. He said there was a place down the road we could go and so we did.

We couldn't find the campsite so asked some folk and they suggested a place opposite that had building work going on and two tents up. Thomas enquired and we went in.

There was little in way of facilities, a shower - cold - in middle of field, and a shed with a toilet in, and water from the river. It would suit purposes now though and so we set up a comfortable camp. It seemed the tents belonged to the owners and weren't campers. In fact if seemed the campsite wasn't, but was someone doing up their house!

We had a great night talking further and we all agreed it was actually fortune that allowed us to spend another night together. Think we had quite a merry time!

Thursday 2nd February 2006

Conta - Puerto Montt

55 kms

As yesterday the weather looked grey and cloudy at waking but after a few hours, same as yesterday it was glorious blue skies. Not quick enough at first though

Had to wait a few hours to dry the tents before packing. The one serious drawback of the Hilliberg Nallo is the condensation which builds up overnight under the flysheet. If you don't get enough sun early, or breeze, you are packing up one very wet tent, and when you unpack, as when we did last night the whole inner tent is soaking, to point of needing toweling out on groundsheet. If you arrive early enough in good weather it will dry quickly. I wouldn't fancy several consecutive days of rain packing and unpacking. We separated the inner and outer today and I guess that would be one way to avoid some of it. The 2006 model has more vents, and needs it.

So we had a slow and peaceful start to the day and had a leisurely breakfast and plenty of time to talk with the 2Ts. we are lucky we bumped into each other again as we have shared a couple of good days together at the right time

There was no charge for camping, maybe not a site in planning at all, maybe just someone’s house, very nice folk all the same, we gave them one or two laughs the evening before so I think they were happy

The ferry was just down road, all of five kms, and this meant almost the conclusion of our ruta 7 journey. One had just gone when we all arrived to we had coffee and biscuits together before we said our goodbye. It really has been great sharing company, and just at the right time too.

Slightly rougher crossing, but not bad, no tying down, two cars and us only, Other way busier again as folk migrate.

The road was finally improving and we got towards Puerto Montt through sections of improvement fairly quickly. The scenery was changing quickly and remind me of Denmark, or maybe even more so, the north of Ireland. Farming country once again, not forestry, and many fishing ports.

Before entering town we diverted along a minor road for a sarnie and ended up watched a pod of 10 or so Dolphins fishing in a bay, magic!

The end of Careterra Austral was a whimper not a bang as being improved and finally tarmac....hurrah.

Big place, biggest for an age, found a spot overlooking bay for 12,000 a double.

Into town, slow internet, not too many of the hoped for delicacies we have been missing, but some great cakes, and meals at ridiculous prices, as in cheap. The cakes come courtesy of the German heritage I think, and they are welcome for sure.

Friday 3rd February 2006

Puerto Montt, fixing and seeing

nominal kms by car and bike

The lady in the accommodation said she would take us at 11 to try and get a welder to fix the damaged boxes. We did the usual laundry thing first and returned to demount a box to take with us. It was obviously very kind of her to run us around as the warren of shops and businesses tucked away in the business zone would have been impossible for us to navigate never mind discover the right ones (but of course we would have had to without her help).

The difficulty lay in the fact that it was aluminum welding not steel. In Britain we'd had difficulty finding someone to do some modification work so were not surprised it wasn't easy here either. We went from suggestion to suggestion and got as far as a place offering to plate and screw them but I'd rather hold out for somewhere else in another place and only do that as a last resort. Eventually we were given a marine place that listed all welding etc, Soldaduras especiales Novak, Berlin No 824 on an industrial estate overlooking town. (I put these references in for other travelers for future reference in case you're wondering). Over here welding is called 'solder' so it's another easy word to remember. There are many ones similar, often just adding an 'o' or an 'a' at end of word does the trick. I had to find some door magnets a while back (don't ask) and struggled for the word until the guy said 'ahhh magnetico'. Great when the language is like that, it's like the ‘scorchio sketch’ on the Fast Show !

So anyway the shop was the typical little business overrun with jobs of all variety from aluminum engine blocks to stainless steel boat parts and lots of busy folk welding all over the spot. A guy assessed the work, thought it could be done, asked if we wanted it that day, and estimated 28 quid for the pannier we had that had the bad split and several areas of fracture around mounting points. Not cheap, but not ridiculous, and we needed it doing, and to get it done that day would be excellent. Said the other pannier needed a little repio to and said we'd come back with that one within half and hour which we did.

To cut to the quick we returned at 18.30 and the job had been done. The welding not up to the artisan standard of the original boxes, but they had done a fairly thorough job and it looked like it would hold up (hopefully not famous last words) and that's all we need at this point. As we had two panniers in I expected the price to rise, but not as much as nearly twice so the 48 quid was a surprise, but this is not a cheap country, and they did do the job quick. In fact before we left they gave us a fiver back so not bad I guess, but would have been cheaper else where, shame damage doesn't happen at convenient times. We were duty bound to repay our hosts kindness to buy her some flowers that she was chuffed with, so all in the job cost about 45 quid.

Soldaduras especiales

As we were on a R & R break we had more laundry done, aired the sleeping bags, and found a small place to repair the broken zip on Bev's bum bag, so reacquainting her with an old friend, she's had the bag years and feels lost without it strapped around her waist. At least that was only three quid so value for money.

A brief bit on Puerto Montt and Chile. This place is way bigger than anywhere we've been for weeks and you can see the contrasts. We are staying nearer the poor end of town so we see all aspects of life, the other end has the Holiday Inn and MacDonald’s so we're losing nothing being this end. The centre of town is very European in aspect with shopping malls and most of the things you'd associate. As there are many parts of Chile under German influence as first settled by them there are an abundance of German links and as mentioned some fine breads and cakes, and of course the beers.

There are quite a few people having a hard time here, and we've come across a few drunks out sparko on the verges or pavements and yesterday even a guy (not young) glue sniffing as he was walking along.

The food opportunities in Chile generally, and here particularly in the cheaper end of town, are great. Food is cheap and good and it's easy to find as most of the restaurants are packed with locals so a safe option. Chile is rightly famed for fish and seafood and it's widely available...well it would be with a narrow country bordered by the sea along one side wouldn't it. Hang on a minute isn't Britain an island surrounded by sea? How do we get it so wrong?

Until only a few years ago I was allergic to fish, but no longer, and boy what an improvement that is,. Bev loves her fish and so we can now both share that passion. We have had Salmon, Hake, Swordfish and now Conger Eel - the national dish apparently. The fish is excellent and usually served with chips! It’s almost like being at home baring the lack of vinegar. Prices vary, but it's easy enough to get fish and chips for under £3 which is not achievable in the UK when you're talking Swordfish or more interesting fare. Anyway, there is much choice and we are slowly working our way through it, Bev's eyes keep following the large bowls of mixed food that families share that include lots of mussels and the like.

For an affluent country the internet varies considerably, in some places it's slow as anywhere we've been, and in a mall yesterday it was as fast as broadband at home, and both were the same price! There is an abundance of laptops in use everywhere which is quite surprising, as many as in UK. The people are very polite here, they will always speak on entrance and exit at breakfast and always say the equivalent of excuse me when they leave or ask for something. You can walk onto a pedestrian crossing and would only be run down 1 times out of 100 which is quite amazing; they also stop at red lights.

We have failed on the tyre front but either Orsorno or Tucuman should bring what we need. Think we'll hang on to the old tyre though too just in case!

27th January 2006 - Puyuguan

0 kms

Checking the tyre in the morning it had lost a third of its pressure so clearly not easily fixed.

Unfortunately that wasn't the only of our worries. I noticed a gaping slash in the right hand pannier. The left hand one developed a crack in the weld in one place a little while ago, but not too concerning, something to be fixed as and when, but the right hand one had a 6 inch long opening about 5mm wide in centre on a joint. Oh dear !

I have to say I was expecting some problems as it's asking a lot of hard luggage, never mind the bike and riders, to survive the rigours of the repio and all the previously documented hardships. We have seen plenty of folks who have had their panniers repaired and welded not due to crashing, but due to fatigue on the mounting points etc. I don't hold this against the panniers as they would never suffer these problems in anything like normal conditions...this is exceptional wear.

So, not only a puncture still needing fixing, but also a pannier in need of tender loving care, bugger.

I re-plugged the tyre and the seal was better though not fully sorted. Still better to use that than change to a slightly mismatched and not road biased motocross tyre we have as spare. If worst comes to worst we can attempt a change at roadside, but putting some more air in at roadside is easier in short term.

The pannier was more of an issue. There are some mechanics in town (well village) but realistically not much hope of an aluminium welder here. We chased up an option but it was clear it was a no go so emergency measures required.

There are about enough small stores to be one for each ten residents it would seem, but they all look like nothing from outside, you have to investigate inside.

One we went in was an Aladdin’s cave of bits and pieces other than the standard fare. This is a very small place, only 500 folk, and has a fairly modern history as set up by four German families in late thirties (common thread) and descendants still run a world-wide successful carpet weaving business here (very small of course). Anyway, my hope of finding any useful repair materials were surprisingly better than expected. They had duct tape, and some puncture repair glue. I bought both.

The glue was for the other cracks i had seen developing (that pannier is the one the bike has fallen on three times, not crashed, but the weight of a fall alone would not be inconsiderable) and the tape for an attempt at reinforcement and temporary (unless very lucky) patching up.

Pannier repairs

We spent some time making the best we could of that and using some of the extra straps I had brought for just such an instance to try and secure everything as much as possible.

Wing and a prayer I guess. We both want to at least get to the end of the Careterra Austral as it has taken it's toll on us and we feel we can't give up before seeing the job done. After that we could avoid off-road if necessary I guess.

Puerto Mont is not too far away (who are we kidding on these roads) and we may be able to get a repair with some doubling up of material or something, else we are likely to have to give up on the repio options as they will surely destroy what we have left. That would be a very sad day, because though we bemoan the repio, it has taken us to the most wondrous locations, and we've had the best of adventures that you wouldn't get on easy access. It will be a real shame to have to change our plans so substantially. It may become a reality we can not escape.

We had a fair bit of time on our hands so now know the village fairly well. Once again everyone speaks...well, with 500 people that's not a surprise, but even children pass greetings. These places we love, you aren't lost in crowds ever. Anyway we outdid the possibilities on the walk front, but the one to the village panorama was especially nice.

We followed a marked path (coloured posts) for 45 minutes and gained enough height to get a great view over the village and surrounding scenery, it really is small. There were some interesting birds on route, one with the most incredibly loud voice, making you think it was some monster of size. When we eventually saw it in the scrubs it was like a giant wren - if that isn't a daft thing to say. It looked just like a wren in overall proportion excepting being the size of a thrush. It had a red breast with vivid striped blue bars below and the voice was simply startling in loudness for something so small. Another small finch type bird had a white Mohican with black either side, quite nice too.

Puyuhaupi from village viewpoint

The walk was well worthwhile, and surprisingly warm and muggy. It's a strange old area all round, giant plants, bamboo and snow capped peaks.

We opted for food at the place and weren't disappointed. Same food as family had later, only we had four times as much meat! As these places are so isolated the bread is often home made, and that's a treat! Obviously Chile is famed for its wines, and that is another pleasure we can endure.

Before finally crashing out we had a quick peak outside and the night sky was exceptional, so clear, and stars more than we've seen for years, probably since being in the Himalaya's a few years ago, outstanding..very little light pollution, and high mountains on all sides bar that to sea.

Saturday 28th January 2006

Puyuguan

24 kms (and a few by car !)

Well a day of contrasts for sure, whether wanted or not.

Twas a bit of a grey day, but looked like rain might stay at bay so the plan was to go for a walk. There were two (or more) reasonably local, one was 24kms away and one 12. As I wasn't too sure about the tyre repair we went for the closer one, the further one was to a hanging glacier that would have been spectacular, but decided on one though woods as the forests here are quite well known for their temperate jungle nature and would be worth seeing from a perspective other than the verge.

On the way out of town the bicycle speedo mount fractured and fell apart, another victim of the repio. I brought a spare as the BMW speedo failed years ago and is a problem area so I always rely on a cycle speedo now.

We rode out to the start point and were able to leave the bike parked at the park guards house while we went walking. The walk was described as 5000m and 3 hrs to Lago de Pumas. Couldn't figure out if that was 5hrs return or one way, and couldn't get an answer there- saw a map, but nothing available to take, the one of the wall was hopeless anyway.

A car had pulled up and the lad had tried to explain a motorcyclist had had an accident and were we his friends? Obviously not, but we thought we better go and have a look, at the point we were to leave, a New Zealander appeared, he who had crashed, flipped the bike but little damage to him or the bike luckily so we could continue as he was well, grateful that we were concerned enough to be about to leave to seek him out.

The walk was a cleared trail that ascended quite sharply from the outset. There were steps created to ease the ascent, but still it was pretty hard going and the air was fair claggy in the dense trees and undergrowth. The main plant species were large possibly Alecia trees and gunnera and bamboo and ferns. You would be completely lost and disorientated if you were to hack off through with a machete, not a hope of knowing were you were. Strange to be in zone like that here.

Dragonfly

Jungle Shrew

Temporate jungle and Glory Vine

As we climbed it cooled a little, but was still very enclosed. We saw a Humming bird, which are quite common, a Little Owl, and one or two bright little things that were so unaccustomed to humans they would hop along branches and boughs towards us. The trees were thick with moss and occasional flowers such as the aptly (here at least) named Chilean Glory Vine and some type of jasmine. There were insects aplenty from brightly coloured metallic beetles to some butterflies and dragonflies. Obviously nothing to compare to real jungle, but impressive none the less

We were obviously never going to get to a point that would be the end of the trail so after three hours turned. It must have been three hours each way and we were slow, but no problem, we had seen the inside of the amazing forest that otherwise we would not have seen.

Unfortunately as we were returning the weather changed and it started to rain which was a bit uncalled for. We returned to the bike, and though the front tyre was a little low, no worse than previous, we set off back carefully.

We had got to within about 4kms of the village when I noticed, even in the rain and slime, that the bike was a bit loose. One of the unavoidable potholes had knocked a fair bit of air out of the tyre, it was flat.

Oh well, could inflate and continue, but oh no, it was off the bead, and as I tried to turn it, you guessed, the bike went over again! Without Bev on fortunately, but that's about the forth time....stationary.....bummer

The tyre was well down and it was fairly obvious it was time for the replacement and tube. We had taken it with us just in case. Oh well.

It was still raining and I wasn't looking forward to dealing with the difficulties of fitting the tube to a tubeless rim, well known for difficulties.

So there as nothing for it, rain or no rain, we may as well get on with the task whatever. Could possibly have pushed the 4kms to town but seeing as tyre was off the bead there was no way of getting air into it hence not really an option.

Managed to get the old tyre off OK just using the 6" BMW tyre levers. The new tyre went on OK with them too for the first side, but the problem is getting it beaded anyway, had to get tube etc in. That was enough of a difficulty to start with, once in there was the challenge of getting the rest of the tyre on. Now that was a struggle, a major one. Had to break out the 18" lever that was stowed in the spine of the frame. Even though that was much easier, it was still a hell of a job to get the last bit on. And once that was achieved there was the matter of the fact about a quarter of the perimeter of the bead on one side wasn't seated in the right place on the rim.

Oh bugger!

That's where a compressor comes in handy, but not the sort of thing you carry on a bike, or a car, maybe a truck, but basically a garage job.

As it was we had to try with the small bicycle pump I brought which was simply not up to the task. Tried all sorts but without success.

Knew there was a mechanic in town so had to flag down a vehicle to get a lift there. In the time we'd been there 4 or 5 vehicles passed, but the only one to stop was a French Landie and at that stage we were just starting the job so said they may as well carry on.

We were in luck with the vehicle we flagged down, a local pickup with a nice guy in who was on his way to town to drop his wife and kids off. I had to leave Bev with the bike, and I jumped in the back with the wheel in hope I could blag a lift with someone else back in a relatively short time.

Our rescuer knew the mechanic, the one round the corner from our spot in town, and it turned out he was the local Gomeria (tyre repair shop)

After some completely hopeless discussions on my part we got it understood that I had a tube in but not fitted well. All this time the guy with the pickup stayed around to give me a lift back which was so kind. The mechanic wisely decided to check the tyre and tube and of course with good reason.

Though I had tried my best I had twisted the tube and nipped it too, so it was punctured. I'd tried so hard not to damage the tube, but it's very difficult - think I’ll stick to my pushbike puncture repairs, much simpler.

Anyway it became quite obvious I had done a completely lousy job as more punctures, caused by nipping tube I imagine, were revealed. Four in all so quite a disaster. Lucky we weren't really in the middle of no-where. The guy soon had them all patched and the tyre and tube on again without all the errors I had so easily compiled (I guess he's done it a few times before mind). A bit of air from the compressor and the bead popped onto the rim properly and we were in business.

All this took probably an hour, our rescuer hung around to return me with no complaint, and the mechanic charged 3000 say £3. Bev had the money though so he was trusting enough that I'd return in a bit.

Off we set back up the road and back to Bev who had been having a rather dull time waiting for our return. No one had stopped whilst she'd been there by herself either (all of three vehicles anyway). Our rescuer refused all offers of some cash for a beer or similar but did accept one of Bevs cigarettes. What a really nice guy. I guess he was of Mapuche origin as different features and colour to the more western general Chileans. The Mapuche were one of the few indigeous tribes to hold out against the Spanish originally, and their culture is still a proud one today with many celebrations of their handiwork, particularly timber buildings etc still prevalent.

So it was now 9pm and we were a bit damp and in need of food. By the time we got back to the Hosteleria it was late and we asked if there was any possibility of food and they said they could do spaghetti or similar. Here folk eat later than Britain, but earlier than Argentina, we'd have just been in time for food there at 10pm!

So a hot shower and a huge portion of food was just what we needed. With a couple of bottles of excellent Chilean wine we were soon sorted and completely knackered.

Come 11.30 at night, as last night, would you believe some people have just arrive looking for a room. Bloody typical another night with folks arriving creating noise until some godforsaken hour just when you thought you'd get a nice quiet night. The rooms here are all assembled out of hardboard etc and there isn't too much noise insulation. Double bugger. that’s the price you pay for having a room a quarter the price of the other posher places hereabouts I guess, we can accept that.

Sunday 29th January 2006

Puyuguan

0 kms

Well after all yesterdays crises we thought we'd stay put today and chill out.

Had to glue my cycle computer back together in hope it'll last, last ditch before replacement with other one. Marvellous thing the humble cycle computer.

Tyre seems OK so should be off tomorrow, will take the old one with us too just in case, it would probably go back on with a tube in it easier than the MX one on at moment. It'll be an interesting ride with that tyre on as it's slightly narrower than what's come off, and much more knobbly. It'll be interesting on the repio, never mind the roads. The plan will be to change it ASAP anyway, hopefully in a few days maximum.

Would be nice to bump into some fellow bikers now for a bit of social, I wonder where Peter and Martina, Andy and Maya, and Martin and Silvia are now. They could be just down the road from here for all we know.

Bev carried out the exciting task of hand washing half our gear in a bowl and out to dry it out. The forecast I heard was not too good today, but better Monday, so let's hope that's true.

There are two computers in the tourist information, but not connected to internet, and nowhere we asked (couple of hotels) were willing to let us pay to use theirs which is a shame too.

Monday 30th January 2006

Puyuhaupi - Chaiten

220 kms

The weather was glorious, the road not. I’m a bit tired of ranting about the diabolical state of the Careterra Austral, and it was as bad as ever so I'll keep the rant short. Today’s highlight was the re-graded section that allowed cars to speed gloriously and characteristically arrogantly towards us, but left us at a miserable 20kph maximum, and I mean maximum.

So that was more of the same. The motocross tyre never really came into it's 'stone-eater' mode as emblazoned on the sidewall. It was akin to riding with one of the wheeled serrated edged pizza cutters in place of the front wheel, not entirely inspiring my confidence, but on the occasions we wandered towards the verge where the loose stuff was the knobbles on the outside edge brought us back were the worn tire would have ploughed off further and I guess had us off.

Another ***** days riding I'm afraid, truly grim, the views were of course good, though we are getting a little overloaded on glaciers, forests, stunning coloured rivers and magnificent peaks. Sad state of affairs isn't it, but I'm honest.

Hanging glacier by road

The contrast from the Ruta 40 to the Careterra Austral couldn't be more opposed driver wise. It’s also interesting the more affluent the country and therefore the vehicles, the more arrogant the driving. Not enjoying this section really, the scenery is stunning the people (locally) very nice, the Chilean tourists nice once the ice is broken, breakfast seems better than dinner for some reason.

We met Uli a German biker on the road and stopped for half an hours chat, the vehicles passing by even slowed by 1mph occasionally. He was widely travelled and a really nice guy. On a similar machine, same year, but a bit more tricked out. He, like so many others, was very respectful for the fact we are ridding two up. There's no two ways about it, it is far more than twice as hard...not that I'd swap it for anything of course. It's nice to meet people on the road, and we always try to stop and catch up if we can, occasionally the opportunity doesn't arise, but generally both parties slow and pull up to chat.

So now we are in the (surprisingly small) town of Chaiten were there are ferry possibilities to Chiloe Island or Puerto Mont, or you can continue the road to its finish (or start)

Naturally enough, you'd expect us to jump ship (inversely) and take the ferry. The truth is this bloody road has been so flaming difficult we both want to finish what we started. Sort of a shame we didn't go to the opposite end at O'Higgins, but it was at a bad time after a difficult crossing to Cochrane, so at least we should continue the route rather than abandon now.

Our thoughts for the future are a little confused.

We wanted to see Peru and Bolivia, but not in a ‘this is Wednesday so this must be La Paz’ manner, but it's so far away we're not sure we can do either country justice. The other issue is we have to return to BA for our return flight and shipping and if you look at a map it's a long way south from either of those countries. To add to it, that area for return is not the best passage as Bolivia has very little sealed roads.

At the same time I don't think we want to spend a huge amount of time in Chile as it hasn't grown on us like Argentina, or even Uruguay or Paraguay did.

One option would be to head back into Argentina, then return to Paraguay and Uruguay and some of Brazil. There are many considerations, it's going to be hot hot hot in those countries if it weren't hot enough in northern Chile and Peru now, we're close to mid-summer here I guess.

Still, you're all close to mid-winter so won't be so concerned by our difficulties. Watch this space.

25th January 2006 - Villa Cerro Castillo - Coyhaique

94 kms

Another day, a quick wander around the village after a simple breakfast and it's another gorgeous start. The skies are stunningly clear and blue as can be, the smell of wood smoke in the air and a hint of fresh horse scent to remind us we're in a small very traditional village.

Cerro Castillo (Castle Mountain)

Cerro Castillo (Castle Mountain)

Villa of same name, all housing around here is wood, tin, or asbestos

The views of Cerro Castillo are truly amazing, hard to pull yourself away from such beauty, but we know not what lies ahead !

Lago Argentina / Gen Carrera (spans border)

Same lake further down

Cerro Castillo this am - hard to leave!

The coming weekend brings a fiesta / traditional folklore event, and had we arrived on say Thursday we would have stayed. as it is, it's a bit long to wait as it could just be a small disappointing affair, but then we could be missing something magnificent....but there might be another waiting up the road !

End of the road for this chap

So the surfacing starts here (but doesn't last), and from town was a perfect concrete carriageway heading over the hills. all very new and once we'd wound round the curves up to the mirador (view) at the top we had a fantastic view back down the sweeping curves and across the valley and too the far distant peaks, to say nothing of the ones surrounding us. The view could almost have been Swiss or similar, quite a contrast.

The land here is only about 100 miles or so as the condor flies to the open sea, and in fact much of what lies on the other side of the mountains is groups of small islands so it is a constant surprise to me that the peaks are so snow capped and there are so many glaciers. I can understand it on 7000m peaks or in a central area of a huge land mass, but so close to the sea seems wrong, especially as although we're so called 'far south' we are not much lower here than we are higher than the equator at home in the UK, if you see what I mean.

Another reason it was a shame to leave was the standard of the home cooking last night. for all of £7 for the pair of us we had great food. a hearty broth with home made bread followed by Asada and salad and then a 'flan', or blancmange to us, that had added coconut as a surprise. we were stuffed after that and it was so good to get a real taste of local cooking.

The village was kind, with most folk even children saying hello or waving as they drove past. The folk here have given us a little more opportunity to sample Chilean hospitality as at face value the Chileans are far less friendly than the Argentineans who are far more Latino I guess in outlook.

Back on the road the other startling thing was the armco barrier at the side of the carriageway. It was more buckled and twisted than any 100m strech I've ever seen in the UK. I'm putting this down to two reasons. One the better road leads to higher speeds, and two, the concrete will freeze like a disaster zone in winter and hence people skate off the road all over the place. I think it's the ice, as it must be hazardous compared to repio in winter....I can well imagine the locals saying "it was never like that with the old road". Well, these travellers are quite happy with the improvement I can assure you, and I could almost hear the bike sighing relief.

A real road, for a while

Some of the scenery was grand as we passed over the mountains, but hard to match that previous to it. What came next was as much a surprise....a green and pleasant land the likes of which we had not expected.

Rolling hills, pasture, and was that a trick of my mind ? No, those really were bales. What a change.

There were still the large snow capped peaks framing the view, but the foreground was much more rounded volcanic mounds and some fine cliffs that looked o offer excellent sport for the climber.

The verges were abundant with lupins and wild flowers of generous hue and it looked like a different country all together.

Whilst on the country, the vehicles here are altogether far more modern and affluent than those across the border and the standard of driving is mixed. You can never be too sure not to find a 4x4 partly on your side of the road on corners the same as Argentina – these people plainly cannot drive on twisty roads ! In town it is better though with people stopping promptly at lights and for pedestrians which was not the case over the border. The one improvement I herald the most is the fact in Chile they don't speed up in town like they do in Argentina. that was the only thing that really got me there. People driving like Stirling Moss to get from street to street, very dangerous, and we had one or two altercations to reinforce our dissatisfaction with the dangerous maneuvers carried out around us.

Still a real road, for a while. Nr Coyhaique

And so to our destination Coyhaique, the fabled tourist honey pot of this area. My, what a shock after the village life, and we've had that for quite some time now. The population is 43,000 odd and it's considered expensive as hell.

What a nice surprise then that we have accommodation not 5 minutes from the centre for 5000 Chilian pesos (say £5.50 p/p p/n with breakfast). It comes as quite a surprise that petrol and beer and the likes are almost on European price base, but accommodation is so reasonable.

We keep wondering how folk in places like last nights can make money with rooms when they have to pay such high prices for goods they need everyday - they may get preferable prices in local shops etc, but not in supermarkets were the price is the same for us or them. It's hard to understand how the economy works here on that basis.

The price of food is much higher here, and though good, I would swap for the home cooking any day!

I'm sure this place has many redeeming qualities, but for us, we prefer the little places. We may however be able to do something about getting a replacement front tyre here, or not !

Thursday 26th January 2006

Coyhaique - Puyuguan

224 kms

Yet again our accommodation was good. The only quirk being the army barracks where just a few streets away and late night was singing en mass, and this morning Bev heard revalie (sp).

The breakfast was help yourself, but with ham and cheese and a welcome return to milk with coffee (or tea) which has been absent for a while, all powdered recently. All the coffee is powder too unfortunately, not like across the way real coffee, even though that wasn't always particularly great. The best coffee in SA is all exported apparently.

One of the fellow boarders last night was an American who has bought an Island up to create a resort - apart from Thunderbirds, how often can you say you met someone with an island to their name ? Sadly he was rather strange and from an economic or city trading background and somewhat odd. You realise from your travels the difference in nationalities, there is a huge difference between Europeans and American's (I'll not include Canadians in that as they are different to Yanks refreshingly). Strange what you pick up in travels. Anyway the guy was telling us rather than listening to us so it was a one way conversation in macro and micro economics which then naturally lead to politics which is a no-no as he was obviously on the Bush side of things and we didn't want to go there. His lot seemed an unhappy one in Chile, but I have no idea why he chose it other than to make a fast buck. Shame.

Our host was a lovely lady and made us most welcome, these strangers who understood little but smiled a lot and it was almost like staying with your gran or something.

I can't figure out how people charge so little for accommodation when the everyday essentials are so costly, our friend couldn't balance that one either, but then he was off on his thread again anyway !

The day was yet again glorious and we had two bits of business before leaving town.

We had to post home some more photo CDs that we'd burnt yesterday to free up card space - do not underestimate the requirements of a country as beautiful as this, you need lots of space. Of course it's important to look through your eyes as well as a camera lens which is something we all forget from time to time.

The other issue was the front tyre. Two very small splits that show canvas. I’m not too alarmed, but it we could get a decent replacement we would as the tyre has done us proud and is well worn. In the UK it would get replaced, here another few thousand miles, prefer the tubeless to tubes, especially on the front - tubeless is not available here without imp-t - costly

We found a shop who couldn't help, did motocross bikes and quads (repairs) but pointed us to another tyre place (Ruedamas ltd, Simpson 341), called there and they did have some decent m/c tyres, but naturally not the size we needed, would take several days to get anything. They did have a Czech made motocross tyre almost the right size, and at £33 I decided to buy it as insurance, hoping not to need it, and hoping I could offset it against the right tyre further down the road if unused. I'd picked up an inner tube for £6 earlier at a car hire place (Traeger, Avda Baquedano) that had some bikes (small) in and some motorcross bits. Amazing what you can turn up in a little place.

So with tyre strapped to back and parcel posted we were underway.

The concrete road continued through lovely but not spectacular scenery before all too soon turning back to repio. This was the 'fireworks' repio. When you watch fireworks it's all ohhs and ahhhs, but replace those with urghs and arghs and that's the score. New type, the stone made of peddles the size of hens eggs and larger with some dust and gravel thrown in. Where do they get the cunning variety ? Well of course it's whatever comes out of the ground locally of course.

Alpine scenery

The scenery was pastoral in an alpine sort of way. The pastures are full of large felled tree trunks that are odd. assume the trees outgrow themselves, fall, the trunks are all that's left and nothing regenerates due to grazing, think it's that rather than de-forestation by man.

One bridge we crossed was a right laugh, parapets half missing and a sheer gorge underneath...nice !

Nice bridge

Very, very surprisingly we came upon perfect tarmac again for a decent stretch and I was quite staggered, obviously it didn't last, say 100-150 kms, but it was a nice surprise to get a few kms on tarmac as a respite.

We came across a small settlement advertising telephone facilities so stopped so we could contact home and wish my Mum a happy birthday, great that you can even out here. Must have been a satelite phone as significant delay on line, but the cost for a few minutes wasn't prohibitive and worth it anyway.

We had lunch next door at Youssefs, yep your downtown Egyptian restaurant. Excellent too, fancy the Chile dish of Conger Eel ? Salmon perhaps, or maybe Swordfish ? All were available and more besides, and not only was it great value, it was great food.

By the time we'd eaten it was 4pm and we still had a long way to go - well, as we knew the repio would return, any distance over 100kms is a long way !

Sure enough the repio returned and we were once again to do battle. The bike at times sliding sideways - it felt - as we crossed paths in gravel, as oncoming vehicles appeared. There isn't much traffic (that'll change) and as we're in peak season it amazes us that it is so comparatively quiet...we're quite pleased of course.

Stones used for repio repair get ridiculous

If it was just for the paths through the gravel and the changes you have to make that would be hard enough (are you all as sick of hearing about repio as we are with riding it yet ? Well, I can assure you our relationship isn't over yet as the benefits still outway the negatives) What makes it more difficult is the potholes. It's like every junior school in Chile has been out playing marbles. remember marbles ? A dished hole was all you needed excepting the marbles themselves. Well the roads are full of large, and quite deep, but luckily round edged potholes as if some huge marble convention has taken place. Try as hard as you like, you'll guarantee hitting several an hour however hard you try not too.

The next..well come on you've seen the pattern so many times previous....change in the landscape was soon to appear, in this case the Parque national Queulat.

Some things you're half prepared for, some things not. This was one such. The park is mountains of a fairly generous proportion leading to steep sided valleys and little light penetration, combine that with high rainfall and what have you got ? Temperate jungle or primeval forest, or both !

The woods are dense to the roadside, and there are Gunerra (sp) like people grow at home with leaves large enough to hide child (and not a small one either) everywhere. It's almost a spooky place. And yet you have huge hanging glaciers just a short distance higher up the densely wooded mountainsides, not seen anything like it. From pictures I've seen I can only imagine New Zealand is something like this on South island. Extraordinary, and stunning. how often have we used that word ? (answers on a postcard).

This whole road is being upgraded, and there were some impressive examples of civil engineering taking place (if you chose to ignore the small details like health and safety and tolerances in construction anyway) There was cutting and blasting (rope access at one point which I was marvelling at til I realised the shrubbery falling by the bike was coming from workers above...hmmmm....time to move). An independently standing viaduct section above a huge racing river, and miles and miles of widening that showed the construction methods in use, See, this sabbatical has brought me further knowledge in my field.....honest !

Impressive engineering improvements

The danger of oncoming vehicles was ever present and one or two were really quite dangerous. As mentioned previously on roads like the Ruta 40 there is an acknowledged respect for oncoming vehicles with slowing of speed and a wave as moving over, whereas in Chile it's often a friendly wave as they blast past without slowing or moving over which is bloody annoying and very dangerous and arrogant in my book, Rant over.

Anyway, the road wound up mountain, and plummeted down the other side with all the time the vegetation leaning ever inwards to the road and yet above those enticing views of hanging glaciers and huge snow capped peaks, the contrast just mind-blowing.

We eventually reached near our destination and the sea was once more to our side in the form of fjords.

At long last we saw the welcoming sign for the village and stopped to check out the options in the guide book. As we set off I thought, hello, this repio is either suddenly changed, or we have a flat. Bugger, we had a front flat! The 'Sod's law' bit of carrying a tyre hadn't worked, but at least we had a spare of sorts I suppose. I would say it was a case of amphibian ovulation....ie spawn...to have that happen right at the end of the day. We were that close that Bev went ahead on foot as it was now nearly 8. I got out the MTB pump in hope of getting enough air in to get to the hostelry. I managed it and met Bev indicating we had a room and to pull round the back

I decided to set about the repair as quick as possible as why not while still in road mode. The tyre plugger didn't quite work, but there are options here before we have to go as far as the other tyre. It was at least nice to work with a cold beer in my hand !

Bev had sorted a room, and the people had even offered to come and get me when the mixture of Spanish and hand gestures had been understood, very hospitable

So we have a room in a very small place of which more later, but even though in a minor difficulty, we'll see it through one way or another.

The owner of the hostel says it is planned to have the bulk of the Careterra Austral fully surface buy 2010 - that will certainly improve tourist access, and change things for sure, I think it will spoil things in some ways, and be a fantastic improvement in other ways. Those that have rode it like this will of course bemoan it's demise....we look forward to being in that position...at present I'd like them to speed up the works to complete by tomorrow please !

22nd Jan 2006 (or thereabouts) - Bajo Carocoles to Villa Cerro Castillo

After our great adventure on Ruta 40 we thought we were pretty safe going over to Chile....and we thought the roads couldn’t get worse...think again, think twice again !

Prehistoric Graffiti

We left Bajo Carocoles and took the first road pass over to Chile ´proper´, Paso Roballos. I say proper, hell, why do I. Hell of a track, I’ll drop road right away. The scenery was absolutely sublime, but the road! It was treacherous, would love a gop on asolo enduro on there, but two up heavyweight, treacherous as hell. There was gravel, ruts, sand, you name it. I ended up riding on the verge - which was sand - just to get off the flipping corrugations and deep gravel. You know my thoughts on sand so you know how desperate it was ! Truly awful and difficult and challenging as hell. But the views ! Quite sublime. Coloured rock the like of which I doubt we´ll ever see again. There was a cliff at one point, and rocks fell out onto the landscape in huge chunks or matt turquoise green, absolutely unreal against the ´normal´ colours.

The pass to Chile, Argentina side, looks better surface than it really is!

The middle section was a green idyll with more estancia´s (ranches) than we’ve seen anywhere.

The border crossing was a bit laborious as they only had 5 vehicles total that day I recon. Bit thorough and our onion was confiscated in Chile and a receipt given (not allowed to take fruit etc over border....strange bananas in both countries come from Equador, but best not question them. Anyway we got through. I dropped the bike again, again only stationary, but a pig to get upright again – you don’t want to loose petrol here, few and far apart and expensive, but Chile pricey are no joke, bout 920 Chilean to quid, and a litre over here can be nearly 700 :-0

Anyway on the Chile side the road got a bit better but the corrugations were horrendous, absolutely awful, at 30kph it felt like the bike would shake apart and it fishtailed around wildly. No verge to ride either. Our average speed for about 300kms recently has been 37kph We’re now on the Caretter Austral, and guess what...it got worse. It´s now beyond a joke, it is so hard to ride. I have shouted out loud at the bloody thing it’s that bad.

The views are absolutely to die for (and you might if you watch that rather than road) unbelievably beautiful. This road is better than anything we’ve seen to date and I’d never believe that was possible. It’s so bloody hard to ride though, treacherously so. Dropped bike another two times (one stationary, one turning on...you guessed...sand) Tarmac would be lovely, really it would !

The views of mountains, glaciers, woods, lakes of mesmerising colours...honestly simply stunning.

The Nr Cochrane, mountains and lake

We got as place in Cochrane for around nine quid for both with breakfast, and tonight it’s up to ten quid without breakfast, so still cheap. Gas is sooo expensive and in places only available from houses in 5 litre bottles. Banking is another prob. The ATM (only one for few hundred kms) wouldn’t take cards, luckily I had a Yorkshire Bank Maestro card that worked, otherwise we’d have 15 quid for the whole journey. tried unsuccessfully to wild camp, but Chile more keep on fences. Of course here in Villa Cerro Castillo there are plenty of options but we’ve a good room so forgo it. The name comes from the mountain behind that is simply fantastic (shame no pics eh !)

Anyway I have missed out loads and loads in this mail but you get the gist. Bev has been suffering with a bad cold that seems to be dying back, my shoulder is killing me (actually trapped nerve in neck) so we’re keeping well !! The bike has a slow puncture in front tyre, but better to pump up each day than fix for now, the brake reservoir is still slowly leaking so topped up rather than repaired so far.

But all that said, tarmac starts here !!!But, it only goes 250kms...oh well..thanks us off,

Chau

18th Jan 2006 - Lago Roco Nr El Calafate to past Tres Lagos Ruta 40

268 kms

You find your humble scribes at Km 53 after the YPS station at Tres Lagos on the Ruta 40, in the middle of bugger all, having had tea and with a lovely camp set up. The reason I mention this is for the benefit of others passing this way. There is little accommodation available for quite a way before and after here. This is also the fabled 'long bit' so far as juice goes. Some 340 miles between stations, unless you add 60kms to the route on a spar. Everyone down this way knows were these two petrol stations are - or needs too, as without them you're buggered to make the distance by bike - and in fact with many standard capacity tanks you would be too, this is one place the 43 liter tank will be used.

Anyway, back to the campsite. It looks like it's an old garage or homestead with a couple of fallen down buildings and some abandoned concrete hard standings. Another interesting feature is the recently dead horse with rigor mortise by the entrance. It's well down wind of us (could smell on road before seeing) and will detract from our presence.. There is a stream besides the willow hedging that protects the tent from the fair old breeze and as people have stayed before a bit of a fireplace that we are utilizing, all round very nice.

Theses places are few and far between - we'd been looking for 50 kms for anywhere we could pull in that had shelter from the wind and a source of water, this was the first place. The road has obviously been pretty bad in recent past (Niks blog said he's had an epic here a week or two ago) with heavy rain, but is at least dry now. But the weather was looking mixed earlier and hence our seeking out a spot rather than going endlessly onwards. This is a long stretch and not one to push your luck on. Since being here eating tea until now I don't think one vehicle has passed you'd be lucky to get immediate attention hereabouts !

I should say for those not in the know, the Ruta 40 is a classic for all the pre mentioned reasons, and always comes up in motorcycle travel tails, but don't go thinking it's some backwater track - This IS the main road over these side of Patagonia, the Ruta 3 on other side is main one used by HGVs etc I guess, but this is about the class of the old A1. Think London to Carlisle with petrol at each end, no real habitation between and all off road and you'll be having the right picture in your mind.

Well funny old day today as we had decided to head on up the road, but everyone else was staying for one reason or another, Andy to fly fish after the guy that gave us a fish for the asada last night loaned him his fly fishing gear - imagine that at home. Peter and Martina are trying to source a rear tire for his Tenere as a lump of tread has left the canvas well exposed, and Martin and Silvia left at 5am to see the glacier at early doors.

So, unbelievable as it sounds, we're about half way through our trip and today is the first time we've ridden on our own, we never expected to seek company, but have greatly enjoyed it and will miss it for know....but just up the road could be more friends united, or new friends !

You build up strong relationships quickly on the road and we both felt very sorry to be leaving, but we have 3 months left, and others no limits so we need to go at our pace occasionally.

The ride out was the usual mix of great gravel roads and horrendous ones, the variety is far from the spice, it's a fair old pain in the arse (quite literally)

This stretch, once past the road for Cerro Fitz Roy is blank, blank, blank. occasional fine sedimentary rock strata and glacial green rivers, or Rheas or Guanaco's but otherwise like the blandest dales views for hundreds of miles....the attraction soon wears off I assure you.

Guanacos

It's hard to explain how you view your existence in these places as the combination of the weather (strong side winds today) the lack of humanity in the form of buildings or even cars for whole portions, and the appalling road conditions get you thinking about what would happen if something did. Concentrates the mind somewhat I have to say.

The other surprise today was we dropped the bike. First time, and in fact not an accurate description - we fell off ! I was turning around on a very windy section with three piles of deep gravel between wheel tracks and I simply lost the ability to hold it up ! Of course I should have asked Bev to get off first etc but there you go. As our first spill I don't think it even counts in the bigger picture really does it !

Anyway it's great being here round our fire with a good spot, assuming no stampede of stock in the night or lunatics on the loose it'll be great, so much for all those comments on taking rooms. But we'll be due a spoil soon enough

Thursday 19th January 2006
past Tres Lagos Ruta 40

300 kms

Luckily woke to a clear warm day with less wind but still what you'd call a fresh wind at home.

Having failed to get any spread or the like for the bread we managed to get yesterday we had to have bread dipped in coffee for breakfast and then a fairly leisurely pack before off about 11.30 - very relaxed eh !

After we left we counted the cars and got to a whole 20 oncoming and 15 the opposite way in the whole day, which was about 7 hours of riding - you wouldn't want an 'off' out here....more on that later.

Frankly the scenery was bland until the end of the day, but seeing as the road was a bit mixed my vision was limited to about three foot wide by as far as a few hundred metres plus the odd glance further up the road. To see more I had to stop.

The few things that happened during the ride where a bit limited but we did get the odd wildlife sighting. There were many rheas about at times. A single or pair of birds look after the whole brood as a crèche sort of affair. We saw about three groups of young with a parent bird crossing the road or hightailing it up the verge. Quite comical birds and a worthy distraction - the necessary slowing allowed me to see that much !

There are also Skunks hereabouts, we have seen (ahem, and smelt !) them twice, but not alive. they live up too their reputation dead at least we can confirm !

We did actually see a couple of other places worthy of being able to wild camp, ie some wind break and water, but they are very few and far between, very. there were also a couple of estancia's offering services, but all bar one were around 60 or 80kms off the road, which is not too helpful when you're stretching out your meager fuel as far as possible.

The main event of the day was exactly what we didn't want, and fortunately didn't directly affect us.

In the middle of nowhere - like anywhere on this road isn't eh - were a Parguayan 4x4 and an Argentinean one, and two Brazilian bikes (Honda 250's, made there I think). We slowed to pull up to check all was well, and clearly it wasn't. One bike had gone down and the rider was sat propped against the car in discomfort.

Honda Rider Accident

He had obviously come off, and as we stopped and dismounted to see if we could be of any assistance it was obvious he had been hurt. His bike was mashed around the indicators and instruments and bars and he had gone down heavily. He had a full face on, but had still sustained what might be a broken nose, and a quite a bad cut to the back of his head. Some of folk on bikes routinely ride around without lid´s on and I always wondered how they can do it - particularly on repio. Maybe if they´d been here they´d think twice....or not.

So even with the right gear on he had suffered quite a knock.

It turned out the Argentinean lady was a nurse, but whether for litigation purposes or whatever, she hadn't been much help. The poor guy was in the wrong position and going into shock from what we could see.

Bev immediately made use of her first aid training (and the reason I had wanted to do it also) and got the guy into the right position and checked him over.

Possible broken nose it seemed, and the wound on the head was cleaned and Bev tied bits of his hair together to try and pull the skin together.

The guy almost immediately started to recover and come out of the shock. The other people there though well meaning had not inspired his confidence and so left him in a bad way. After this happened the 'nurse' got out her equipment and took the poor guys blood pressure which was a bit pointless as it would be a bit false and now real help.

There was no sign of any further head injury luckily, just bruised ribs and a few knocks. The nose was flowing fairly well though and I wouldn't want to don my crash hat and ride another 150kms, but needs must.

As it was a long day ahead, and all was in control now, we were able to leave as nothing more we could do, they would continue after some mechanicals. In fact we met them at the petrol station village not more than half an hour after we left, not hanging around these guys.

Obviously they were grateful and Bev was happy to help.

As we left it felt a bit of emotion as - though I never forget - it brings home the dangers out here.

There was a lot more 'nothing' before the end of the day, but still a couple of surprises.

About 50kms before the village was a solitary hotel (I thought it was abandoned at first, but not) that would have been great to stop at excepting we were all day battling with the fact the skies were a bit leaden and at times showers were heading right our way, nearly all missed us. The one that didn't, we caught the edge of it, was sleet ....good God eh ! It was as we passed the place so kept going.

The first half of Ruta 40 today was pretty poor, but most of the second half was pretty excellent. Our average speed for the 300kms odd was about 65kph which was very reasonable considering the mixed conditions. You have to make progress on stretches like this, but you can't compromise safety, especially two up (we see very few folk two up, only one English couple so far)

The end of the day brought some great distant views of the mountains and I think the one our hosts in the Lake district (Arg) recommended. it was one of the nicest and littlest visited - no wonder as it was 100kms off route in the middle of the stretch. Shame to pass, but best plan with weather etc taken into account.

The village here is miniscule, but attractive in an obscure way. a petrol station, a hotel (full) with supplies, and a hostel with camping. Camping was 12 for both of us, a bed in a four bed room 40 (£8). as we wanted to guarantee some peace and a good night’s kip I tried in my best lingo to get a deal. In the end we got the room for just us for 50 or £10 so not bad, breakfast is about a quid each and evening meal £3 each and we can even have wine, which we might!

A hard days ride, but interesting in some ways you'd prefer not to encounter, and our first day by ourselves (well day two actually). We could have bunked up with the Brazilians and saved a small amount, but one snored so we said no thanks to that. There was room at the inn for them anyway so no problems, if no space we would have sacrificed our comfort as matey boy must be in some discomfort really.

A great day I guess, but an odd one all round.

14th Jan 2006 - Hosteria Los Torres, camping - Grey Glacier

140 kms

Using the campsite as our base, and having the weather revert to sunshine we decided to have a team ride out to the Grey Glacier.

What I should of course mention was it was Andy's birthday (21 again) today, so we had a bit of fun as Maya had decorated the outfit with balloons and got Andy a few presents she had hidden away, and Bev knowing of the event had also got him a little something too.

So the ride out was with picnic too.

The road was bloody rough - and I don't care how often I get told you won't like Bolivia then - it was hard.

Bought extortionate juice at 1100 (550 normal) to ensure we’d get everywhere and some more reasonable priced supplies before going on.

Eventually we got to the viewing area (well after 20 min walk) and saw Icebergs floating in the water in fantastic hues of blues and sculpted into fantastical shapes by the thawing actions of wind and water.

Bev and Martina sat and took in the views and Peter and I wandered along the beach, he to the far end were views of the distant glacier could be had, and I wandered SLR in hand looking for those elusive arty shots of blue ice and contrasting scenery.

I found a small piece of a melted berg at the shoreline and we took it back and each had a bit to suck. Wonder how old that was, and whether there was some incurable disease frozen in it!

It was a magical place and there were few people there, making it more magic.

At long last we got one of our eagerly awaited wildlife sightings, Austral Parrots! The most southerly breed of parrot in the world, and as comical and mischievous as any other parrot. Before this trip I'd never expect to see parrots or parakeets this far south, but there we have it they are here in abundance !

Sunday 15th January 2006

Hosteria Los Torres - wild camp on way to El Calafate

90 kms

Set out 'bout 13.00, Peter got a rear wheel puncture after a spoke snapped. just at border so stripped, changed spoke and repaired tube and stuck back together in a short time considering. as too late by time we exited Chile (very easy) at Cerro Castillo, the Argentina side was a little more trying, but the firm faced front was soon dropped and necessary paperwork completed without too much difficulty. Pain in the arse though as we'll be back into Chile again before we know it. If the two countries got on better I'm sure they could resolve to issue a 30 day pass or something. As it is foreigners have to register the vehicle on entry, then the paper is chucked on exit, and the next country does the same. if you look at the border down here it really is a bit of an inconvenience, still, locals don't have the same problems and we're in the minority. Chile is on elections at the moment so they're quite excited and TV is on everywhere in true election fever mode.

The spot we stopped at where Peter had his puncture had a small shop and cafe, but being Chile, the prices were frightening. £3.50 for a burger, even bare bread rolls were 28p each. I appreciate the places here abouts are rather cut off, but the costs are horrendous in comparison to Argentina, but then before their crash, the same would have been true of Argentina too I guess. Anyway it comes as a shock to pay more than you would at home.

As we were still a long way from destination and it was 18.20, El Calafate was too far. Absolutely bugger all about here by way of habitation - there was one hotel (run down) that we passed. I'm sure Bev and I would have been knocking on their door but seasoned travelers Peter and Martina naturally suggested the natural option was to wild camp.

The only problem was where. Where there's a will there is always a way, and though the roads here are built like British motorways with wide verges and long back set fences there are occasional estancia's and the like. It's not like back home were you'd find a small back road or a wood. A wood...now that's a laugh ! The only trees in Patagonia after the bottom bit are the ones planted by the farm buildings, and they're inhabited. The place is just barren sun-baked (don't get the idea it's too hot either !) pampas grasslands. So we found the turn off from the Ruta 40 (shockingly new tarmac which was a surprise after the initial repio at border north until there is a shortcut) which cut the corner, and was, yes, repio and found a petrol station.

After filling up we asked if there was anywhere to camp. They suggested behind the police point over road that had some trees and cover, but there were some others on the other side that looked favorite. We asked if it was possible and they said it was estancia land but probably OK.

We set up camp for the night and made tea, and all was well

Monday 16th January 2006

Wild camp on way to El Calafate to Lago Roco Nr El Calafate

208 kms

Packed, bloke walked past with no problems

Repio, some unpleasant some good eventually got us to el Calafate, a real tourist town set up just for the glaciers really. Got some shopping and headed off to camp in park - one 'proper' site, one free.

After getting there on a great tarmac road we discovered the campsites were no more, and nearest one was over 40kms away, down a repio road. We could have stayed in El Calafate and got down the tarmac road quicker, bugger.

Anyway it turned out that Lago Roco is a great camping spot with the best showers we've encountered over here (a great selling point) and loads and loads of space at each pitch and all for £2 each a night.

As we set up the asado who should turn up? Martin and Silvia, it’s a small old world at times!

Tuesday 17th January 2006

Lago Roco Nr El Calafate

126 kms

Well today we went to one of the premium tourist hot spots in Argentina and probably South America as a whole, the Moreno Glacier.

It is justifiably talked up everywhere, an immense wall of blue ice slowly crawling down 14 odd kilometers and just abutting the headwall of the opposite side of Lake Argentina.

After all the farce with the campsites in the park being closed, and the signs saying the road was closed to traffic from 12.30 to 16.30 we were a little concerned about making sure we got our visit in. With an entrance of 60 for us both that's about £12 you want to be sure of getting a quality time there.

We rode up with Martina and got there for about 12. The road wasn't shut at any point, so useless signing, and blow me if we didn't run into Andy and Maya just by the parking.

The place is certainly tourist hell, but you have to expect it really. The car park was full at the top (in fact at peak times private vehicles can't go there I think) and so we had to park lower and await the free mini buses. The queues were long though and we all agreed to walk the less than 1km. Lucky we did ! On the way we saw a path to right that showed a spectacular sight of the glacier but warned 'no entry without ranger advice'. we were in luck, a ranger appeared and we joined his group, and picked up some details as we got to the fantastic views you wouldn't otherwise get. The wall of ice is around 60m above water and 160 below (Get this, the Upsala Glacier a lake away is 600m deep below water level). The glacier looses 2m a day at the front, but is no longer advancing or retreating, it's fairly stable, in the eighties it was one of the few advancing glaciers in the world.

There were a few other snippets we picked up, but what was more important was the sheer magnitude of the thing itself and the stunning beauty of the formations and colours of the ice making up the walls.

Moreno

Moreno

The sounds were also magnificent with creaks and groans, but mainly bangs, crashes and splashes as sections moved and broke free and fell. No huge sections fell off whilst we were there, but a few fairly large ones did.

The pictures do more justice to the glacier than words, but its magnitude is hard to comprehend even in pictures....take it from us, that thing is BIG !

Moreno

Moreno

Back at base it was asada time and we had the whole gang again for a meat feast like you can only afford to do over here.

11th Jan 2006 - Puerto Natales - Hosteria Los Torres, camping

Anyone following this as a strict and accurate record may have noted days and dates out of order on last entry. It's simply because we have no idea what day it is half the time, this is our only reference - really !

150 kms

After two days relaxing in the comfort of a room it was time to enter the National Park Torres del Paine and forgo most luxuries. The park has little in the way of facilities - unless you want to pay through the nose in hotels - and so you need to stock up before entry. There are no real shops after Puerto Natales and so we shopped before leaving to get the supplies for a few days, not easy as we have very little room on our bike as we're fill to bring and I don't want to strap stuff all over loosely. In a strange quirk the food we bought managed to go in the panniers and Bev's rucksack. Supplies for a few days, but no room for excess or luxury.

The ride out of town and too the park varied, but the common thread was that the road was bloody hard, bloody hard. Real vehicle destroying stuff. OK it's not the same as you'd