Peruvian Police - a 'take no prisoners' attitude to fines/bribes was what I had heard from the other bikers - all of whom had been stung. So here I was having been pulled over on my first day in the country for speeding (who me??), I put on my best charm school act and managed to get away with it - along the lines of 'aah senorita...' In fact despite getting stopped twice more in Peru I never had to pay a penny.
Having quickly bored of the coast in Peru I was zig-zagging in the mountains, and followed a great dirt track through Canyon del Pato (Duck Canyon in English - not quite as poetic), which goes through more than 40 roughly-hewn stone tunnels as it follows the canyon side - a beautiful ride, so if you're going through Peru look for the track, it is north of Huaraz and leads to the coast.
On leaving Cusco heading towards Lake Titicaca I was caught in a vicious storm - it seemed to be trapped in the valley I was in and I had lightning hitting the ground all around me - at one point only 300 yards away - I was hoping my rubber-topped foot pegs would help in saving me!
Bolivia and the diverse road surfaces it has to offer - I have managed to 'snap' Thelma - the fairing/headlight bit has sheared through and is now supported solely by the crash bars. To add insult to injury I had the hounds of Huari chasing me (a pastime practiced by dogs world-wide as all riders know), however this time with a difference when I felt a searing pain and looked down to find one with its fangs around my left calf - I yelled, kicked it off and sped onwards, so now I have rabies to worry about as well as everything else!
The Salar de Uyuni was beckoning - and in a mini posse I set off with Alon (from New Mexico) on his Transalp and Rob (from England) on his KLR. We had a great time - it really is an unbelievable experience to be riding fast over this huge expanse of white as far as the eye can see, overall the journey to the Chilean border turned out to be quite an epic one but we made it, with Thelma limping across the frontier with 1500rpm and only first gear possible!"
Next HU Events
- NEW! Canada Maritimes: July 4-6
- USA Colorado: July 11-13
- Ireland: July 18-20
- Canada West: Aug 21-24
- USA North Carolina: Sept. 4-7
- France Mini: Sep 5-7
- Canada Ontario: Sept. 11-14
- NEW! UK - Haggs Bank: Sept. 19-21
- USA California: Sept. 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
Which bike, how to prepare it, what else to take, how to pack it all in! 6 hours!
"It's another great job, informative and entertaining."
"It's really professional and full of useful information, a must for any traveler."
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'GEARUP' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
New to Horizons Unlimited?
Membership - help keep us going!
Books & DVDs
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!