Martyn Cleaver

The initial trip plan was to go to the FIM rally in Tartu, Estonia, but after researching the event agenda & costs, we decided why not go the whole nine yards and do a complete tour of the Baltic.

So on Monday the 11th of July, 5 people (including my 17 year old son riding pillion with me) set off on 3 motorcycles and a trike on Monday 11th July from Maidstone to catch our 08.15 ferry from Dover to Dunkerque.

As I had covered all the planning and research for the trip, it was left for me to lead and navigate! Volunteers would have been nice, but that's group politics for you!! When I did eventually get someone else to lead, he got lost getting out of the Motel car park!

The first 2 days through Europe were fairly uneventful but very hot. Then we crossed the border into Poland. I swear I will never ever complain about the state of the roads or other drivers in the UK again, after negotiating the cobbles, pot holes and suicidal Polish drivers. On a two lane road on a brow of a hill or on a blind bend with double white lines you are confronted with a forty foot lorry or a car overtaking coming straight at you! - two choices: do I stand my ground and possibly hit them or do I ride towards the ditch! Err tough decision! I think the ditch looks favourable, must remember to avoid the roadside vendors selling honey!

We eventually arrived in Gdansk in one piece and after a slight detour, found the campsite in Stogi, near the beach as recommended by the Rough Guide. The campsite turned out to be a forest in the sand with just enough space in between most trees to pitch a tent. A two up fully loaded Speedmaster does not like sand! For one horrible moment, I thought I would have to dig the bike out, but thanks to the low down torque the bike has, I managed to ride it out with the back end sliding madly with sand flying everywhere. That night, I think everyone was hot and bothered and some were even thinking of not completing the whole trip.

The next day we got on a tram and went into Gdansk and spent a relaxing day seeing the sites including the shipyards and the Gdansk old town.

Friday saw an earlier start, with everyone being packed and rolling by 09.30 as we wanted to visit the Stutthof Museum in Sztutowo just outside Gdansk on-route to Elk in the lakes. We arrived just after opening in bright sunshine, parked the bikes, paid our money and entered. Words can not express the emotions that I felt after going around the camp! I had to sit down next to my bike for twenty minutes before I could continue. I will never understand as long as I live, how human beings that are capable of such great things, can be so barbaric and inhumane to their fellow man.