Sometime in 2002 I was flicking through the cable TV channels when I happen to pause on the Men and Motors channel, I had landed in the middle of a program featuring a group of unlikely lads preparing their Suzuki DR350's for a world trip, within minutes I was hooked, I would wait with bated breath for the next installment of this epic adventure, Mondo Enduro.
Every week I'd watched as their adventure would unfold on the screen, the urge for me to do something a bit more adventurous than the odd wet weekend in Derbyshire now grew stronger. As the final episode of Mondo Enduro came to an end I turned to my wife Jen and said that I felt the need to do something similar. Jen was one step ahead knowing me all too well, she had seen this moment coming for weeks. I can't say her face lit up with glee but Jen's not one to stand in the way of adventure even if it wasn't going to be one of hers.
With the green light from Jen I wasted no time in recruiting my own team of 'wannabe adventurers' and first on my list was best pal Martin, ex-college friend Andy, ex-colleague Adam and Kayaking buddy Herman. At this particular time only myself and Adam held a full motorcycle license and so there was plenty of work to be done. It was now early 2003 and a date of June 2005 was fixed, this would coincide with my 40th Birthday.
I had now got the inspiration and the team for the big trip, all I need now was a destination!
I had agreed with Jen that I would be away no longer than three months and so a round the world trip was way out of reach. I considered heading off for a particular destination but I have never been keen on re-tracing my steps and certainly couldn't afford to have myself and bike shipped back from a distant land. I decided I would try to work out a circular route.
I began by considering what I wanted to achieve. It was important to cover as many miles as possible, after all this was about adventure motorcycling, putting myself and machine through a daily routine of endurance (The inspiration was still coming from Mondo Enduro and now Austin and the Boys were at it again with Terra Circa, another round the world adventure) I also wanted to experience extremes, in terrain and temperature. I hit on the idea of Heading as far north as we could and then turning to head south. This would see us north as far as the Arctic and then hopefully head south as far as a Desert. Artic Camel was born.
We would ride from the most southerly point in Norway to the most Northerly taking us well into the Arctic Circle, we would then cross over into Russia and start heading south until we reach the Black Sea and then into Turkey and on through Syria, Israel, Egypt, Libya, Algeria, Morocco and then cross over into Southern Spain and head home via Spain and France. It was now Christmas 2003 and we had our provisional route planned, preparation was ongoing.
I should point out that some preparation took place well in advance of other decisions being made, especially the choice of bike. Although my inspiration had come from Mondo Enduro, the Suzuki DR350's the boys used didn't really fit the bill for us. We were looking at a very tight schedule without too much room for overrun; this meant where possible we would need to notch up as many miles as possible and to do this I calculated large sections, particularly through Western Europe we would need to be clocking 70mph or more all day.
As an everyday motorcyclist I had been through the motorcycle spectrum, starting with the trusty Yamaha Fs1e followed by a succession of nails, then a couple of years loan of my Dad's Norton Commando followed by a time with a CBR1000, then a BMW R1100R and then I woke up one morning to realised I now owned a BMW R1200C, the cruiser thing that James Bond tootled around on, something had gone wrong and something needed to be done!
I narrowed my choice of bike down to the legendary XT600 Tenere (favoured by Chris Scott) or the fairly unlikely Rotax Engined Harley 350. I had already ruled out any multiple cylinder bikes, anything with too much electronic wizardry, anything too nickable, anything too shiny or anything too feeble. The Honda 90 Crunch was looking good but the Pizza boys had taken all of those and so I took a trip to Forces Motorcycles near Litchfield to give the Harley a once over, it was quite a surprise, sounded lovely, looked the part especially with the forward mounted panniers, it rode well and seemed very comfortable and with the belt driven cam, maintenance looked to be fairly straight forward, this would be an important consideration because none of us are mechanics and although I had spent enough time with unreliable bikes and cars to give me a decent head start we would all need to get up to scratch with whatever bike we took. Things were looking good for the Harley, well if it was good enough for the boys in Kaki, then it was good enough for me! Ah but that was to be the rub. It was after all a military bike and being a born coward I was not too keen on making myself any kind of target for possible mistaken identity. Rightly or wrongly I thought that riding anything looking remotely military could have severe consequences, especially as there was potentially 6 of us, mmmmm that’s nearly a platoon, isn't it? I may well have been wrong but we were going to be heading into fairly unstable areas and I wasn't ready to risk it. The Harleys were off the menu, there was only one thing for it, XT600 Tenere's and plenty of them!
I sold my shiny cruiser and then went along with Herman to Freddie Trott’s motorcycle emporium in West London. There we bought two Tenere’s, “don’t wrap them, we’ll ride ‘em home” Adam had located another one in East London, Martin found one in Devon and Andy eventually bought one off a South African guy who had suddenly gone off the idea of riding back to Cape Town from Peckam (to see how this should be done see – http://www.loisontheloose.com) He had spent a small fortune with Dave Lambeth Overland having this bike brought up to bomb proof spec. Andy got himself a bargain!
Herman’s Tenere blew a head gasket and the cam ate itself after just 200 miles. This was taken in good spirits as were most disasters which befall Him. Herm went out and bought another one; this one was later stolen from his front garden, along with the KDR125 and the Landrover wheel it was chained to. Incidentally the KDR had only just been returned by the Police a few days earlier having been stolen the previous year from the very same garden. This was taken in good spirits as were most disasters which befall him. Herman then bought his third or was it possibly his forth XT600, which I believe is still with him to this day. It’s worth mentioning that we fitted another engine to the original XT600 Tenere Herm bought and it was leant to Baz (see final line up) for a weekend of fun in Derbyshire although this all ended horribly on a snow covered Stannage Edge and bike has never run since – This was taken in good spirits etc.…………………………… to be continued
Following the demise of Herman’s Tenere engine I decided to carry out a complete strip down and rebuild of my bike. Adam was also having doubts about the reliability of his bike and shipped it off lock stock and barrel to Dave Lambeth Rally & Overland (http://www.davidlambeth.co.uk) for a major overhaul.
I had completely stripped my bike and dismantled the engine ready for rebuilding but it was all taking too much time and so I decided to cut my loses and get Dave Lambeth to rebuild my engine, this was pricey but with a reputation for being able to turn a standard XT600 engine into a 100,000 mile lump I thought it was worth it for the peace of mind.
For all of us this really was going to be the motorcycle trip of a life time and for it to end prematurely because of engine failure or major breakdown would have been unthinkable.
While Dave Lambeth busied himself with my engine, I rebuilt the rolling chassis from the ground up. This was a slow process and in August 2003 I bought another Tenere to enable me to familiarise myself with the bike, on and off road. The bike I bought was well traveled, starting life in Switzerland it had been far and near, including South Africa and back. It was also very well stocked with extras, a centre stand, aluminum luggage and racks, custom seat for short arses like me and a white power rear shock, all of which would find its way onto my trip bike.
Armed with my new bike I began planning weekends away with the boys, hacking 200 miles up to Derbyshire on a Friday night to congregate at a bunkhouse or The Yew Tree Inn just over the border in Staffordshire. The pub is owned and run by Alan East and his partner, who happens to be my Mum. This was very handy for cheap accommodation but usually had us reeling with hangovers the following morning although Mum’s hearty breakfast would see us on our way. The bunkhouse we stayed in was not so homely, no electricity, heating or lights and very cold but it did mean we learnt to cook, map read and plan by torchlight.
Once up and mobile we would set off for the hills following routes obtained through an internet site supplying information for four-wheel drive enthusiasts. Initially we though this would have us leisurely following farm tracks and green lanes. We were soon to discover that these 4x4 drivers like a challenge and our ride would be far from leisurely. The Tenere’s took a fair battering on these trips and more often than not one would return home on the back of a breakdown truck. We were all getting very familiar with the bikes, their idiosyncrasies and how to maintain them.
Apart from the bikes we were getting to grips with all the other aspects of the trip. We had chosen to bivvy instead of tents, this was another Mondo Enduro inspired decision and besides it meant less luggage to carry and more adventure. We’d been trialing cookers, recipes, waterproof clothing, thermal underwear, you name it we’d covered it, even designing logos for the fuel tanks.
August 2003 was also the month that Jen and I announced to the world that she was pregnant and would be expecting our baby in March 2004. I wasn't sure what affect this would have on the trip but carried on with the preparation much to the suprise of all but Jen.
At the very outset of the Arctic Camel Project I had it in the back of my mind that there was a likelihood someone would drop out for one reason or another, and because of this I had given everyone a deadline of February 2nd 2004 to confirm that they would definitely be coming a long and that they would have all the resources required.
Two weeks prior to the February deadline we had a training weekend in Derbyshire; my patience was wearing a bit thin at the time because I was receiving little or no constructive help from the rest of the group. Martin had compiled a fairly comprehensive fact sheet on Scandinavia but that was about it. In a damp and very cold bunk house on a snowy hillside I expressed my frustration without too much diplomacy. At the end of my enthusiastic tirade I asked if there was anyone planning to pull out of the trip, not one person expressed any reservations at this point, two weeks later it was a different story!
A couple of days before the end of January I found a small envelope post marked Staffordshire waiting for me on the door mat. It was from Andy confirming that he would be joining me on the trip and that all the necessaries would be in place. On February 3rd Andy’s letter still remained the only confirmation, I was devastated to say the least; everyone knew the deadline and only one person had bothered to let me know their intention. I called Martin, Adam and Herm, each one had decided to pull out but hadn't had the balls to tell me and all of whom stated their other halves as the main reason for the change of heart, this drew absolutely no sympathy with me, not only was I the only married one of the group but Jen was expecting our first baby in March 2004.
The next few days were agony as I tried to come to terms with the news. I felt it was only fair to give Andy the option to pull out of the trip given the change of dynamics. Andy assured me that he was up for the trip whatever happened, this gave me a much needed boost to dust off the disappointment and rethink the trip. It was no longer going to be emulating the Mondo Enduro adventure but at least it would still be going ahead!
Now that there would only be Andy and myself heading off on the trip, we re-evaluated what was achievable. The imminent arrival of a bouncing baby was also weighing heavily on my mind; Compromises would have to be made!
The biggest change to our plans was to reduce the length of our trip from three to two months, in the main this was because of the baby and me struggling to justify abandoning Jen for three months when the baby would be just over a year old. The other reason was that now there would be only two of us things would more expensive individually; we were less enthusiastic about rough camping and now intended sleeping under canvas on campsites where possible and no doubt the occasional night in a hostel, cooking for two was not going to be that much cheaper than for five.
With the change of time scale came the change of route, I spent many hours pondering what was possible before finally deciding we would need to omit North Africa completely, with this the new route would be:
Norway – Russia – Turkey – Greece – Macedonia – Albania – Croatia – Slovenia – Austria – Switzerland – France - Belgium
I consulted Andy, he gave the new route the thumbs up and we were back in business. I buried the hatched with the ‘Jibbers’ and we arranged to meet up for another trip to Derbyshire
On a cold February night in 2004 I arrange to meet my close buddy Baz in the local. As I bored him with plans of my trip and the tale of Adam, Herm and Martin’s decision to drop out, Baz told me he would loved to have been involved himself but with limited funds and commitments elsewhere there was no way he could do the whole trip, enthusiastically he suggested sailing out to Switzerland and meeting us on our return journey, I pointed out Switzerland was not the easiest place to sail to but it got us thinking. By the time last orders had been called we had hit on a daring new plan which would see all the jibbers being given a second chance to be part of the adventure.
The plan was for three riders to share one bike in a relay, starting with Baz who would ride from home to northern Norway, he would then hand the bike over to Herman and fly home. Herman would ride the Russian leg and then swap with Adam in Turkey, Adam would then ride the final stage back through Eastern and Western Europe.
I called Andy the next morning to see if he had any objections, like me he was still a bit miffed with the lads dropping out as they had, he agreed to the plan and I called the guys who were all immediately sold on the idea. Because the boys had already dropped out once it was decided that Andy and myself could not let our trip be jeopardized by anyone doing it again, with this in mind we had to insist that the third bike was not reliant on us. This meant unlike the original plan to have all the spares, cooking equipment and other essentials spread between all the bikes, the third bike would need to be self sufficient. This would mean that if there were any complications with the relay or anyone failing to show Andy and I could continue and the third bike and rider would not be relying on us.
Baz was now firmly on board, the boys had agreed on Adam’s bike being used because he had already had the Dave Lambeth treatment. It was decided that Herman would do the Russian leg, in part because for all of us this was unknown territory and Herman had always proven to have a cool head in a crisis and was a lot braver than the rest of us!
Once the finer details of the relay team had been ironed out it was all systems go and everyone busied themselves with preparation. By the end of 2004 everything seemed sorted, the bikes had all been through Dave Lambeth’s fingers so we were all feeling confident that they would stand up to the challenge. We’d been doing a great deal of riding on and off road; we were frequent visitors to Derbyshire and were getting quite used to picking our bikes up after numerous falls.
I was in the final stages of rebuilding my bike ‘XRT’ and decided it would be a good idea to mount a sidecar onto my spare bike, the Tenere 3AJ I’d been using while XRT was off the road. I modified a trial bike sidecar to fit and my first ride out was terrifying, I ended up on the wrong side of the road more than once, I persevered and with a few tweaks and a five gallon drum of water strapped over the wheel I mastered it, or so I thought. One Saturday at the beginning of January I transported Ad’s ammunition boxes to a fabricator to have some brackets made and on the way back the wheel bearing on the sidecar seized up, it snapped the stub axle clean off and Bang I was off, the bike was thrown sideways, I was launched earthward and then the bike and sidecar which were now upside down landed on top of me, it was like a guillotine coming down across my back. Fortunately Adam was following me and called for help, unfortunately the two Ambulance men would not veer from their sat nav directions and although they could be seen and were being directed over a mobile phone by a Samaritan who’d stopped to help me, they still insisted on continuing to follow the electronic idiot. A full 15 minutes after the first sighting and following some choice words from the guy on the phone to them they turned up. Once in hospital it was discovered that I’d punctured my lung and broken five ribs. I spent 2 weeks in hospital and a further 4 weeks recovering at home.
By March I felt fully recovered and completed the work on XRT, it was ready to be run in and on a cool March night I set off for work in London, 80 miles from my home in Ipswich. I gave myself plenty of time and keeping my speed below 50mph with plenty of gear changes I was enjoying the leisurely ride. After about 40 miles I felt the engine begin to labour, I snatched the clutch in and the engine nipped up solid…I didn’t make it to work and following a couple of hours in the cold got recovered. I took the bike back to Dave Lambeth and left it with him, it turned out I hadn’t put the sponge into the air cleaner and Dave put the seize down to the engine running to lean. I took I on the chin, paid up another £450 for his troubles and a new piston and collected the bike. Time to run it in again, by now I only had a month before we were scheduled to leave.
On June 16th 2005, following three years of planning and preparation we were finally going to be on our way. Maisy was just over a year old and was fully mobile and beginning to talk, I lay in the garden with her on a gorgeous summer morning with less than an hour before we were due to leave. She pulled the top off a daisy and with a big smile she gave it to me, now for the very first time I had grave doubts about what I was about to do and wanted to hold onto this moment for ever.
The bikes were loaded; Baz had already made two last minute dashes across town and now assured everyone gathered that he was ready. Adam had come along to see his bike off with Baz at the helm; it would be Trabzon in Turkey before he would be reunited with it. We wheeled the bikes out onto the road for a final photo shoot and I gave Jenny and Maisy last minute hugs and kisses, pulled my helmet down over my head and we were off. The first three miles or so were spent choking back the tears and sobs as the huge emotions got the better of me but soon the heat of the day and the unfamiliar handling characteristics of my fully laden bike soon had me focusing on other things.
Herman had also been there to see us off and would ride for a while with us before heading south for Enfield down and then hopefully reappearing a two week’s later in Norway. For once we were having some fantastic summer weather in the UK and today was the hottest yet with temperatures reaching the mid thirties, great for a day out at the seaside but not so good if your £2000 rebuilt engine has a tendency to heat seize, which mine seem to do!
With less than 50 miles covered the engine started to labour, I whipped the clutch in and the engine died instantly, I freewheeled to the kerb. Now then, was I being over cautious? Was it really a heat seize or possibly something else? I let the engine cool for a while and then gingerly kicked it over, it felt normal enough and so maybe I was being a bit over cautious after all, I gave it a good kick and I was back in business. Baz and I waved farewell to Herm as he took the M11 exit. I was taking it very easy but couldn’t help but think back to the previous seize which was put down to me omitting the air filter when reassembling the bike, that was a really cold night and I was barely doing 45mphat the time. These thoughts were very much still on my mind when the oh too familiar feel of the engine struggling happened again, this time I left it a little longer before pulling the clutch and sure enough it nipped up. Again I let it cool and then nursed it into Newark Services, this time there was no doubt, there was a trail of blue smoke following me.
I was not happy, I knew that this was trouble, I also knew that first seize a few weeks before was sod all to do with the air filter. I was on the phone to Dave Lambeth before Baz had pulled up; I got the answering machine, luckily for Dave. I left a comprehensive explanation of what had just happened complete with every expletive I could muster. I then did the most logical thing I could think of and called my Dad for advice and sympathy, he managed to calm me down a little and suggested a healthy dose of RedX in the tank and to continue as best I could, in the mean time we’d try to come up with a contingency plan between us.
By now I was not in the best of moods and was a little anxious that Andy, who was traveling from Stafford, had not made the rendezvous at Newark as planned. We finally made contact with him and found him at a completely different service area; nerves were a bit frayed to say the least and poor old Andy got an earful for the slight inconvenience.
The temperature began to drop the further north we went and then the heavens opened; at least the bike was still running albeit slowly with a smoke trail worthy of the Red Arrows display team.
Luckily we had a planned stop over at Newcastle before catching the ferry for Norway on the 17th from North Shields. Things were looking up as we tucked up in the Travelodge for the night, my bike seemed to be running ok, still smoking but at least it was running. I spoke to Adam back in Ipswich and asked him to be ready to drop the engine out of the Tenere I’d had the sidecar accident on and if necessary dispatch it to me somewhere en route. The overnight stop also gave us time to make some adjustments to the bikes and the luggage; we ditched the litre of saline fluid (2 years out of date) Herman had included for emergencies, not sure what he had in mind, and a few other useless items from Adam’s bike.
Sometime after three in the afternoon we were on board one of P&O’s finest and finally leaving the UK. The ferry was a very pleasant surprise; very bike friendly with plenty of room and straps to secure our machines, the economy cabin we’d booked was air conditioned and very comfortable and the shared facilities spotless. We had dinner and a couple of drinks before hitting the bunks around 11pm, we all slept soundly and were feeling great as we rode onto Norwegian soil shortly before 10am on 18th June.
HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!
"The calendar is magnificent!"
"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"
We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!
Next HU Events
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Germany Autumn: Oct 23-26
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! USA Virginia: Apr 9-12, 2015
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!
Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
"Inspiring and hilarious!"
"I loved watching this DVD!"
"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!