December 28, 2005 GMT
Fun in Acapulco. Not!
The title of this entry comes from an old Elvis movie which we are dying to see because it takes place in Acapulco and also has a scene where Elvis cliff dives. We´re staying right next to where all the cliff diving is taking place so I feel some connection to Elvis these days. Nothing major or anything, not like I´m going to start impersonating the guy but its pretty cool.
Anyways, the pòint of the entry´s title is watch the movie and don´t bother with visiting the place. Acapulco is kinda nasty, on a good day. More on Acapulco later.
Now going back to Ticla
Ticla Dec 15- Dec 23, 2005
Ticla was great. Our setup camping was even better then in Sayulita. We had easy access to electricity although made due without any hot water. I also learnt how to sleep in a hammock, because as I might have mentioned previously, sleeping on sand (in the tent with no mattress) is like sleeping on a boulder. I probably messed up my shoulders during the Sayulita stay and the first two days in Ticla. But then we bought a hammock and it was great. Although sadly my first night in the hammock coincided with my first case of the ¨Mexican Runs¨. And it ain´t easy leaving your sleeping bag when you´re on a hammock all zipped up. There are many hammock sleeping techniques, the key one is head support and that´s all I´m going to say on this subject.
So more about Ticla. Basically a surf town and nothing more. The week we were there the waves were small for Ticla standards but still big for ours. Overall, I think I took more steps back in Ticla then forward regarding surfing. I now have fear which I didn´t have before. When that wave crashes down on you, it does with you what it wants, all you can hope for is: 1) No rocks to the head, 2) No board (your own) to the head or foot, 3) that your head\ or foot doesn´t go crashing into the ground, 4) that the guy next to you who also took the wave doesn´t lose his board which could end up in your head, 5) etc etc. All these things unfortunately have now entered my mind.
Unlike in Sayulita where you could basically grab any wave, in Ticla wave selection is critical. And also where to catch the wave, again a new concept. Maybe this is why people take courses on surfing. That´s all on Surfing for now.
The atmosphere in Ticla is special. Everyone is generally open and nice. We met a great couple from Texas (Captain Steve and Terry). They had the spot to our right. Really cool people. The Captain surfs and fishes and drinks, what else would one want from life. Although, I still think the Captain was working for the CIA in the seventees. Who goes to Nicaragua in 1976 (just when the revolution starts, see your history) and has a pilot´s license. Come on who was he kidding. I´ll probably be snuffed out for saying that, but we all have a record of it now so if anything happens to me we know its the Captain. Overall, very cool man and both of them were very hospitable. I´m beginning to really appreciate Texans, good people.
Besides Texans, Ticla is crawling with Italians and Canadians. I haven´t seen this many Italians since leaving Montreal and they are really cool. Definitely different then Italians back home. Why do Italians back home seem like they are from my Mothers generation, even the young ones? I know I´ll get hate mail for that one. Although please if you are gonna send hate mail place ¨Hate Mail¨in the subject line. Thank you.
Well that´s all for Ticla. We did nothing on the bikes there, not even a cleaning. Sorry girls (Katy and Lucille).
Zihuatenejo Dec 23-25, Dec 2005
On the 23rd for some unexplained reason, Smokey decided we should head out. And I was ready to make a move as well. Ticla had a feeling similar to Sayulita and we risked a chance of overstaying, so I was glad to keep moving.
We headed to Zihuatenejo, and on the way made some stops at Troncones (not sure why this place is popular with surfers, although we did catch one guy surfing who sadly broke his board in half, first time we saw that) and another stop at Ixtapa (the next Cancun, maybe).
Zihuatenejo is an okay place. The beaches are not much to talk about but the city itself was quite lively.
We got to hang out at a very interesting/cool/mellow bar called the Jungle Bar. A couple of things struck me about this place. First off it was being run by two women during the night shift. Two women were handling EVERYTHING for about 40 clients. Not being sexist or anything, but I´ve never seen that before. And they were good, really good. Never once were we waiting on anything and they were always around doing something. I can´t imagine two guys working the place as well as these two did. So hats off to those two. As for the second thing, the ¨bathrooms¨(at least the mens) was just a urinal. No joke just a urinal and nothing else, which obviously means no place to wash your hands. Even in normal circumstances that´s a little gross (and I´m not a clean freak by the way, I just like my hands and the hands of others washed after I or they pee), but at the Jungle bar they have free peanuts, so everyone is just digging into these peanuts, there were bowls everywhere. Sadly enough I only found out that the washrooms were lacking wash basins after I finished my first bowl of peanuts. Although to be honest I did have a second bowl, since I´m not a clean freak, but the second bowl wasn´t as satisfying.
Okay, besides the Jungle Bar, Zihuatenejo was the site of our first theft. Yes, it finally happened, someone stole something from our bikes. This guy (probably a guy) during daylight while our bikes were just outside our hotel managed to get the whole air filter assembly including the retaining bolt and frame (see clymer manual chapter 3 photo 53 for all parts stolen, I think its photo 53). This theft was mind boggling, just crazy, this guy simply messed us up. The air filter is an important part, highly required, and to make it worse he took the frame and the bolt making it very difficult to recreate the whole assembly. Sick, sick man. So we were somewhat screwed. The two motorcycle shops in the area said they couldn´t help and had no foam filter. We´d have to wait at least a week if not 2 until the parts were ordered and received. So we consulted our motorcycle guru in Montreal and got a quick lesson on how to put a make shift filter together (pantyhose and dish foam cleaners was where we were leaning towards). When we got to the motorcycle shop (second time) to get some supplies we´d need we received some divine help. Moments like what took place next is why I believe in God. Miraculously an old banged up KLR 650 (same bike as ours) was found in the back of the garage. Its as if the bike showed up out of nowhere, since the first time Smokey visited the place he came back empty handed. When I went to the back of the shop after looking over a KLR 250 hoping it has a similar filter (no way since it´s a much smaller bike) I saw Smokey standing next to the KLR and light was shining from the bike. So we made an arrangement with the guy to buy the used parts for the cost of him replacing the parts with new parts which we couldn´t wait for. Not quite sure why we didn´t buy the parts as used but spending $70 to get out of this jam felt really cheap. We learnt a very important lesson for $70. Lesson being, bike security. Till then we were either very lucky with where the bikes were staying or we were lucky that nothing happened. From now on we look for indoor parking.
The used filter had to be reworked a little (which a mechanic did) but it was more then enough to get us to Acapulco.
Ányways, I can go on about the whole theft, but talking about it makes me angry so we´ll leave it at that.
Acapulco Dec 25th
Great riding day. That reminds me that soon I´ll have a full entry on Mexican road conditions and general driving notes.
After being in Acapulco for 3 days, i can safely say that this isn´t a place I would revisit. The city itself is filthy, the beaches are primarily dirty and the heat is insane. Coming here we were hoping to find a good place to party for New Years and hopefully be around some Gringo´s (foreign tourists). But it turns out that foreinghers have stopped coming to Acapulco, we seem to be one of the few. I can say with confidence that in 3 full days of being alllll around Acapulco, we have seen less then 50 Gringo´s out of a holiday population of over a million. There was one bar/lounge that was kinda chic called Ibiza Lounge (damn you can call any club Ibiza something and people will go) which had great decor on and off the beach and even had Hukkah pipes with a huge selection.
As always there are positives to any negatives, and here in Acapulco we found a great place to stay at (Torre Effel near the cliff divers in Old Acapulco) and have found a first rate Kawasaki dealership. Yes folks, our girls are getting a full service job as I write this entry. That should take us easily for another 3000 miles.
Well, tts off to siesta time. I´ll have to end this entry.
Happy holidays everyone,
GMoney (although I now also have a psuedo name of Jamie Wolf [still under review], while Smokey´s psuedo name is Mike Jones, ¿who? MIKE JONES)
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 07:58 PM
December 23, 2005 GMT
The Sayulita Crew. From Left to Right. Nile, SmokeyD, Emanuel, Sandra, Dimitri, GMoney (me), and Nancy. Miss you all.
Well, that's all the photos for now. Obviously we have tons of photos, but sadly haven't found a way to get them on a computer and this one by one thing is a little tiresome and actually slightly too educational for my present state. Maybe one of these days.
God Bless. Happy Holidays. Merry X-Mas, Happy Hannukah and a happy new year from Smokey D and GMoney.
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 04:53 PM
And this one is Smokey and a close up of our bikes. That's Lucille with the Silver hand guards and Katy with the black guards.
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 04:51 PM
This next one is us with Nancy (aka Nan). Thanks to Nan (and Michelle) we now have photos. Thank you, thank you sooo much.
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 04:50 PM
This photo thing isn''t easy. I've only found a way to place one at a time soo here goes nothing and I'll only send out one notification for all of them during this upload.
This photo (UsArriving) is the first one taken upon our arrival to Sayulita. This was after 7 days of hard riding.
As you can see, I'm happy to be alive and Smokey is just Happy!
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 04:14 AM
December 16, 2005 GMT
From Small Town to Tiny Village
Note that you can go to previous blogs from the main blog area,whatever that means, anyways figure it out.This is for the people that are just getting the blogs nowand want to see previous blogs.
First Off let me apologize for still not having any photos. I’m sorry.
I actually do have some photos, but they’re too big for a blog load. I just need to find away to size them down (Michelle when can you resend?). Really I just need some time, but not into that yet and the internet place I’m at now it’ll take forever. Damn, there’s a donkey about 20 feet away from where I sit now, not to mention the painfully loud roosters all over the place. Hate roosters (kept me up in the morning) but I love donkeys. Its great when they do that Yawning thing, if you look at them it almost looks like they want to puke, but hold it in and then just laugh.
Okay,okay, its been a while so there is much to tell. A.k.a. Long Entry Warning.
Nov 22- Dec 11 Sayulita.
Sayulita was great. We spend a week with Friends. Great to see Nancy (a.k.a. Nan), and others. There’s actually a photo with everyone, when I put that up, I go through who was around, presently, I’m lacking memory.
After our friends left we headed straight for a camp site. Which I already mentioned was on the beach. Fantastic location and they had hot water. We had a total setup, tent, table, chairs, and a surf board we could borrow from a neighbour. Unfortunately it was a short board(6'2) and was hell surfing with, I wouldn’t even call what I was doing on that board as surfing, that would dimine the sport.
Things to know about Sayulita: The handshake, simple but key. When confronted with the handshakedo the following... Simple hand slap with a slip away, followed by a soft but firm chuck. Note: A chuck is a clenched fist, knuckle to knuckle hit. Simple, yet necessary.
Besides all the handshakes we did in Sayulita, there wasn’t much of a night life. Our average bedtime was 9pm. Several days I was asleep by 7pm. While wake up was around 6 am. Nutty, very nutty. So instead of partying we decided to put our energy towards commercial real estate. Two interesting opportunities were found. One was a rundown mini-hotel (15 rooms), which was ON the beach, had serious potential but needed lots of work. But the owner wasn’t selling and his rental fee was ridiculous, won’t even mention.
The second place was also a mini-hotel (10 rooms)on the first block from the beach, great location, and is ready to go. I won’t go into details, but if anyone is interested here is the listing and if you do end up getting it, I would like a lifetime free stay (as long as a room is available) finders fee. Listing: http://www.sayulita-garciarealty.com/listing303.html
Amazingly, we spend almost 14 days on the camp site and 20 days in total in Sayulita. Leaving Sayulita is tougher then getting out of a warm bed on a cold Montreal winter morning.We even met some interesting people at the site. One kid (22), from Boston, was more concerned about helping the needy then helping himself first. Whacked, totally whacked. Not sure what hormones they put in food these days, but schools might as well have students smoking crack. Just kidding, it was refreshing to see that, weird but refreshing. Anyways, this same kid had a laptop stolen and returned during the last night we spent in Sayulita.
The whole incident was kinda surreal. Around 4 am we (our gang) get woken up, by one of our group, saying that someone is snooping our stuff. The snooper stayed on the sight and was making believe he was sleeping on a hammock. His fake yawn/stretch when “woken” was easily spotted. The kid (snooper) stuck around and the cops were called. Most of us went to sleep, but the Boston kid stayed up since his laptop went missing the day before. So around 7am (3 hours later), the cops show up, and I wake up. Not sure what exactly happened, since there was a lot of spanish spoken, but the kid almost got off. All he had to do was keep quiet. But he confessed at the last second. Amazing, that NEVER happens. He actually confessed to stealing the laptop the day before, sick, sick. Odds are in the hundreds of thousands of ever getting a laptop back after its stolen in a foreign country. Maybe even in the millions. But this Boston kid got it back.
Takeaway Lessons: 1) If you are sincere in helping the needy, your odds of getting stolen stuff back are better than normal. 2) Never, Ever, Ever, confess. If they’re asking you to confess, its because they don’t know sh$t.
The whole night robbery thing got us moving though, we took it as a sign that we’ve stayed long enough. That day we packed up, said our goodbyes and left in the dark.
During our stay in Suyulita we made a couple of trips into Puerta Vallarta. Interesting town which we ended up staying a few nights after Sayulita. Also has the BIGGEST Walmart, I’ve ever seen. This Walmart even has an Alcohol section, I didn’t even know they allowed that.
In Vallarta we mainly had our bikes worked on (see Motorcycle section at the end). And Smokey got the first speeding ticket of the trip, and can you believe it, the cops wanted money. I couldn’t believe it, cops stopping people for money! Outrageous. That’s just wrong, but Smokey assured me that that was why he was stopped and not because he was going faster than everyone else.
Puerta Vallarta- Dec 11- 13 (I think).
We were actually only supposed to be in Vallarta for a couple of days, but on the third day my bike didn’t start (see moto section) so we ended up staying another night. This gave Smokey an opportunity to experience a Foam party, which I luckily didn’t have to go to. It just sounded like the theme to one of my 3 year old niece’s birthday party’s. So I got to stay in and watch MTV, while Smokey took the hit and went out. Smokey’s experience will hopefully grace this blog later, but for now... Takeaway lessons are: 1) Go in a bathing suit. 2) Do not bring any documents, especially your passport or any vehicle registration papers. Foam parties, are 80 percent water and 20 percent foam, from what I can tell.
Anyways, Vallarta was actually quite the little town. We had a great little spot by the beach.
Dec 14- Melaque
Not much here. Basically a retirement community. Average age, 70 years old. No waves. But we got to see "A day withough Mexicans", on the TV at the hotel, so it was worth it. Great movie.
Dec 15 Ticla
We arrived in the late afternoon. Tough little place to find. Ticla makes Sayulita look like Miami in regards to size and things to do/buy. While the waves here make Sayulita waves feel like a bubble bath. I was out surfing this morning and I got hammered. One time I even knocked my head on a rock. I didn’t think that could happen until it actually happened. And not to mention the two time the board hit my head. Luckily for all that work I got on the board once, which lasted 1.6 seconds long. Anyways, no need to get concerned, I’m okay and I’ll be back in the water before the end of the day. We’ve rented a board for a week.
As in Sayulita, we’re camping. The facilities are pretty good here too and we’re also on the beach. The overall place has almost nothing. I’m at the only internet place and it has 2 terminals. There is no Laundry place, only one main mini shop, but the place has no peanut butter, which sucks and no soy milk. Wow, I am so needy. But even without any of that stuff, it’s a very cool little place. Smokey’s mind is already racing at 100 mph thinking of how to make money.
Anyways, I gotta go, this is the only internet in town. So it’s kinda in demand if you now what I mean. I’m sure I’m leaving a lot out.Sorry, if I remember I’ll add it in in the next entry.
By the way, we have limited communication in Ticla, if you're trying to reach us good luck.
We miss you all,
Smokey’s Bike: Got an oil change in Vallarta. I didn’t trust them so I did it again in Sayulita. Also tightened all the bolts except those covered by the skidplate. G-money’sbike as well had a tightening done.
G-Money’s Bike: Also supposedly got an oil change in Vallarta, but I really didn’t trust them and it turned out I was right. When I changed my own oil in Sayulita it looked like tar. I felt awful letting it get that bad. Now I just need to do another change with a filter clean at the same time.
In Vallarta the day we were going to leave,my bike had NO electrical power. It turned out my battery was almost completely drained.
What I think happend was that the night we arrived in Vallarta, I remember my radiator fan not closing, even after a good 15 minutes. I assume it drained my battery. So we placed Smokey’s battery on my bike, got my bike started and bought Smokey a new battery. Which by the way didn’t fit well at all. I’ve never had such a tough time putting in a battery, even had to bang it in a couple of times..
I wonder (anyone with ideas let me know) why it was soo hard. The battery (Yulsa) has the correct requirements as per the manual, and it looks standard, but for some reason it was just a couple of millimetres too tall.
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 09:16 PM
December 01, 2005 GMT
Surfing is FUN!
Surfing is a way of life Dude!
No not really. Actually its pretty cool and it just gets cooler.
Dec 1 - Sayulita (still)
I think last entry ended with our arrival to Sayulita. That was like a century ago or something.
Anyways, I guess I´ll have to recap.
We arrived on a Tuesday, a day after our friends did.
The guesthouse we stayed at will probably be in the Top 3 guesthouses we´ll be staying during our trip. It was really nice.
I´m waaay too lazy to discribe it so here is a link if you´re interested;
As for Sayulita itself, its definitely charming and hip. Although, there is zero or close to zero nightlife. My averaged bedtime to date here has been 9pm. Anything over 11pm is considered VERY STRONG. You´re almost like a Pimp if you´re out later than midnight. Just a couple of nights ago, Smokey and I ventured out past our bed time and ended up walking all the way to the ¨other¨ side of town. It was a little spooky but then we heard some Reggaeton (Gasolina) blasting from some place at the dead end of the street. We ventured in and Smokey quickly deduced that it was a whore house. Smokey definitely has whore house deduction credibility, so we quickly made a dash out, since we would never be caught dead in such an establishement.
No really, Smokey was feeling kinda sick for a few days (his own words:¨I went from a man who couldn´t sh$t, to a sh$tting machine¨) and we played it cool and headed right to bed.
Whatever, none of the nightlife stuff matters since the most fun is had during the day.
The surfing here is definitely good for beginners. Although, a couple of days ago the waves were soo strong I wouldn´t even consider surfing.
So on our first day here Smokey and I got on some boards. Thanks to some tutelage from our friends and the usage of their boards we were up and surfing in no time. One time out I even caught 5 out of 6 waves and on the last one figured out how to walk on the board so the damn thing would go farther.
But all in all we´re just starting.
Just a few days ago I was put down by some lady just cause I don´t know how to turn. I told her to just get out of my way next time. No I didn´t but I should have, cohnyoooo!
Anyways, we´re having fun and surfing gets more and more fun the more you do it.
Take away lesson regarding surfing:
Always wear a shirt, even if its warm like a jacuzzi. Unless you have metal nipples, they will get hurt, and nobody wants hurt nipples. Mine are just recently (this morning) getting healed.
And also note that you are NOT a surfer just cause you surf. You´ll only a surfer once you enter a pipe and leave a pipe. Until then you´re just surfing.
Our friends left a few days ago. So we moved out into a camp site. Which is really a good setup. We´re meters from the beach, have two tables and chairs and the toilets and showers (I take my showers in the moonlight from now on) are great. Just yesterday we cooked our first meal (David, thanks for the burner and pot, they work great, I had my doubts but Smokey pulled it off), and we had the best spagetti ever (thanks Prego) in a candlelight setting by the beach. Fabulous.
Anyways, I won´t keep this one much longer since there is presently a Sports Experts (Montreal retailer) photo shoot with all the models being from Montreal, and the shoot is right outside our capm grounds. SMokey and I are hoping to be cast as extras or be like oil latherers or something, damn it, anything.
But before I end it off here are some bike events. Let´s not forget this blog is hosted by a Motorcycle Travel site (HorizonsUnlimited.com). But all those not interested in bike stuff just go back to your daily grind and wait for the next entry.
Smokey´s bike: During the stay in Sayulita. CLeaned and oiled airfilter and total cleaning. During cleaning noticed that a bolt was loose. Bolt was used to further support the exhaust. Can´t place it back. Need to bring to mecanic.
Also noticed that the pink see-through pipe (not sure what its for) under the seat that leads towards the ground has been melted. Also needs a mecanic.
G-Money´s bike: Also air filter cleaning. Also complete cleaning. During cleaning noticed that my engine is still leaking some oil and noticed that something wasn´t right around a round black rubber piece on the bottom section of the left side of my engine. Some sort of wiring (thin like cleaning wire) was coming out around the rubber peice. Again not sure what that is. Need to read the Clymer manual.
Anyways, we´ll probably head to a mecanic either in Puerto Vallarta or Tepic.
Both bikes also need some general maintenance for the 3000 miles check-up. We´ve done some and need a mecanic for the rest.
Hopefully finding someone who knows our bikes.
Posted by Gaby Berelovich at 07:18 PM
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