It had just stopped raining when we pulled into town, but Oscar still came to meet us on his bike. He is a member of the Horizons Community in Viedma. We visited his place, met his family, then were found a great place to stay just up the road.
Oscar and Arno making noquis
Over the next few days we met a variety of interesting people. Oscars family showed me around the twin towns of Viedma and Patagones while Arno worked on the bikes. He got my carrier practically rebuilt and his head bearings replaced, with the help of Oscar friends. He seems to know everyone in town.
Discussing how to get the head bearings back into the bike
After a week or so it was difficult to leave, so warm had been our welcome. We had promised to be in Azul by Friday to meet up with Yuki again and attend a bike meeting. Real friends were made in that small town and with luck we will return there on our way back to BsAs. By the time we had said all our goodbyes it was past lunchtime and by dark we had only made it just past Bahía Blanca. Instead of sticking to Ruta 3, we took one of the secondary roads and camped behind a dangerous goods checkpoint.
In the morning, while adjusting the chain on my bike, we noticed the rear tyre was flat! Pumped it up using Arno’s clever gadget and hoped we would make it the 80kms to the next fuel station. The air stayed in but the petrol station had a Gomeria, so we decided to play it safe and get it fixed. We took the wheel off and got the professionals to check out the tube. They couldn’t find a puncture, but we put a new tube in, just to be sure.
While we were putting the wheel back in, another rider pulled in for fuel. He came over for a chat and told us he was on his way to a bike meeting. Not the one we were aiming for though, this one was just another 80kms north. He invited along and as we had a day spare, we decided, why not?
Diego, with Moto Guzzi and Armadillo.
When we got to Coronel Suarez, the whole town knew in which direction to point us. We signed in and went to put up our tent. It took awhile as we were surrounded by other riders and lots of kids who bombarded us with questions and asked for autographs.
So, this is what is like to be famous
Our German number plates caused some interest as there were 3 villages nearby populated almost entirely by descendants of Russian Germans, who arrived at the beginning of the 1800’s. It was surprising how many people still spoke German, even after 150 years.
We escaped from the crowds and had a wander around the campsite, checking out the other bikes. A Transalp looked familiar, yes it was one of our friends from Viedma with another couple of riders from the town that we had met. Small world!
There were lots of smaller old bikes such as Gileras and Jawas, as well as the more conventional Japanese road and trail bikes.
This group had mostly small bikes all self restored
The next morning we had to be on our way toward Azul. Again it was early afternoon before we got away, just couldn’t resist a lunch invitation and a chance to look around the German villages. It was a nice ride, until it started to rain, and rain, and rain. By the time we got to Azul we were dripping, literally! We stopped by the campsite where the bike meeting was happening, it was extremely soggy there, so decided to go on to La Posta, where we knew Yuki would be. It was a Friday night and the place was buzzing. We got out of our soggy gear, got to know everyone and ate the first of our Azul asados.
The weather improved and the next day we went back to the bike meeting with Yuki to have a look around and a chat to other riders. We also took part in the ride around town to the plaza, where all the bikes parked and the riders partied. Due to the weather there were only around 350 bikes present. A combination of bad weather and the economic situation, said our friends. Two years ago there had been over 3000 bikes!
After the weekend, things calmed down and there was room in the garage for Arno to do some work on the bikes, oil changes and routine maintenance. We stayed at La Posta for over a week, making new friends, local and international.
Jorge and a couple of familiar faces outside La Posta del Viajero en Moto.
Azul has become a stopover for riders from all over the world, Jorge has made a wonderful place for us to hang out for awhile with like minded people. If you pass through Azul, stop, say hello and spend a night or two.
HUGE, 11.5 x 16.5 inches, beautifully printed in Germany on top quality stock! Photos are the winning images from over 600 entries in the 9th Annual HU Photo Contest!
"The calendar is magnificent!"
"I just wanted to say how much I'm loving the new, larger calendar!"
We share the profit with the winning photographers. YOU could be in the HU Calendar too - enter here!
Next HU Events
- Germany Autumn: Oct 23-26
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! USA Virginia: Apr 9-12, 2015
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
- Canada West: Aug 20-23, 2015
- USA California: Sep 24-27, 2015
- Aus Queensland: Sep 24-27, 2015
- USA North Carolina: Oct 8-11, 2015
- Aus Perth: Oct 9-11, 2015
Take 40% off Road Heroes Part 1 until October 31 only!
Road Heroes features tales of adventure, joy and sheer terror by veteran travellers Peter and Kay Forwood (193 countries two-up on a Harley); Dr. Greg Frazier (5 times RTW); Tiffany Coates (RTW solo female); and Rene Cormier (University of Gravel Roads).
"Inspiring and hilarious!"
"I loved watching this DVD!"
"Lots of amazing stories and even more amazing photographs, it's great fun and very inspirational."
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'HEROES' on your order when you checkout.
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!