We have arrived at the Iranian border after a cup of tea and well wishes with the last offical in Pakistan.
Our first mistake in Iran, we parked the bike in the wrong spot and are asked to move it 20m. No problem. Our passports are being checked and we are moved on to the next office, where details from the Carnet are being copied into a large ledger.
Now please move the bike around the back of the bulding and proceede to emmigration. Once at emmigration a officer aproaches us, asking where the bikes are? We point in the direction and are told to move them in front of the bulding.
No problem. At the front a officer with a piece of scrap paper notes down our number plates and tells us to move the bikes to the back of the bulding. Sure why not. In the meantime our passports are still being held by emmigration and we try to find out why it takes so long for a stamp, after a lengthy discusion with the officer in charge we get our passports to go to customs so we can finalys our carnet and get stamped in to the country.
The girl's are still sitting near the emmigration office waiting for ther passports to be returnd. As we find out they are holding our papers, while organising a police escort for us to drive to Zahedan the first city, 88 km from the border.
After 2 hr wait two young police man show up telling us they are our body guards and will be travelling with us on the back of the bike. ???? We tell them there is no room on our bikes for 3 people, solution = we should hire a taxi so they ( the police man ) can follow us into town. Sorry, no go as a taxi would cost us 40.- U$
Ok, we will hike a ride and you must follow us, the police tells us. The first pick up is a truck travelling at 40 kmh to the next police check only 4 km down the road. Stop, check the papers and wait for the next lift. A family with kids picks our body guards up and we are off for another 5k's until guess what, another police check.
Now the guards are being exchanged and the new police guard's stand on the side of the road hiking a ride. Just to let you know its over 40 C while all this is happening and we are melting in our gear. This time a people mover pulls over and gives our guards a lift, until you guessed it, another police check point. So after 7 hr we finally arrive in Zehedan, not at the hotel but at the police station for more checks and a new escort to take us to the next roundabout where a car is waiting to guide us, at a speed of 20k's through town to the next meeting point and the last changeover. Fainally we get to the Hotel where we are told that we are not allowed to leave the premisses because its to dangerous. Our bikes are locked up inside the hotel which we think is a good thing, but the reason behind it is, that we can't leave in the morning whithout a police escort. To make sure we can't check out, they hold our passports and won't return them until the next town. Welcom to Iran, where not only there own people but also tourist are held like prisoners.
The following morning we leave Zehedan and make our way to Bam with a few more escorts along the way, but the good thing is, they have cars and are moving along at a good speed, as Iran's road's are great.
Bam has been devastated by a earth quack a few years ago and the damage caused is great, over 40,000 people where killed and most of the city has been destroid.
The old mud city is just a big pile of fallen buldings and rocks. There is a huge effort underway to restore the site whitch could take up to 50 years.
From Bam we drive west to Sahrjan and on to Shiraz.
Somewhere in the middle of the desert I have a flat tyer, we manage to fix it enough to get us to the next town, where we have to put the tube in, as the patch won't hold. Looks like a new back tyer in Tuerky.
After a few days in Shiraz with plenty of sight seeing and walking through the bazars we leave for Esfahan. The roads are great and we make it in good time, after a overnight camp, outside a small town called Yasuj.
Esfahan is a trully fantastic town with all its bridges and temples, everywhere you look there are parks with people having picnics and sitting in the heat of the day, out under shady trees and water fountains.
One of the problems in Iran is the food. Menu choices are very limited, even though there is all this fresh vegetable and fruit available on the markets, all we can get is Chicken Kebab, Chicken Kebab with rice, rice with Kebab and so on, it gets a bit boring after a while.
The good thing in Iran is the petrol price, we are paying about 55 cents a litre and thats the tourist price, the locals only pay about 14 cents a litre.
From Esfahan we go north to the coast of the Caspian Sea and a town called Anzali, the water looks great, but in Iran the Lady's are not allowed to swim in public places so none of us go in to the water.
From Anzali we travel along the coast to Astara and then head inland to Tabriz and on to the Turkish border.
Camping in Iran
Pic Nic with friends in Iran
I hope he makes it !
Roads in Iran
Posted by Mark Allenspach at June 23, 2009 08:24 AM GMT
I want my Mum
Our veteran travellers share their tips (and great stories) for staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.
"A fantastic, informative and inspirational DVD."
"It's brilliant - thank you very much!"
Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'ONTHEROAD' on your order when you checkout.
Next HU Events
- USA North Carolina: Sept. 4-7
- France Mini: Sep 5-7
- Canada Ontario: Sept. 11-14
- NEW! UK - Haggs Bank: Sept. 19-21
- USA California: Sept. 25-28
- Aus Queensland: Oct 3-6
- Aus Perth: Oct 10-12
- Aus VIC: Oct 24-26
- NEW! Aus NSW: Oct 31-Nov 2
- NEW! South Africa: Nov 13-16
- NEW! HUMM Morocco: May 13-16, 2015
What others say about HU...
"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA
"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada
"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia
"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders
10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!
NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!
Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!
What turns you on to motorcycle travel?
Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!
New to Horizons Unlimited?
New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!
Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.Read more about Grant & Susan's story
Membership - help keep us going!
Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.
You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.
Books & DVDs
All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.
MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!
Story and photos copyright © All Rights Reserved.
Contact the author:
Editors note: We accept no responsibility for any of the above information in any way whatsoever. You are reminded to do your own research. Any commentary is strictly a personal opinion of the person supplying the information and is not to be construed as an endorsement of any kind.
Hosted by: Horizons
Unlimited, the motorcycle travellers' website!
You can have your story here too - click for details!