Crisscrossing between Argentina and Chile from Los Antiguos on Lago Buenos Aires, south along Route 40 through the seemingly endless semi-baron pampa; bedding down at delightful ‘Estancias’ supplying refuge by way of warm fires and generous patagonian hospitality on my way to El Califate, on Lake Argentino, and the beautiful Los Glaciers National Park including the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier. From here, the howling Patagonic winds sweeping off the southern ice-sheet and snowcapped peaks of the Cordillera del Paine are relentless, making the perilous journey to Torres del Paine National Park and Puerto Natales an extremely cold, slow and unforgettable experience. Finally the road ends in the pioneer town of Punta Arenas, where a ferry is required to continue the journey onto Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, or ‘Big Island of Land of Fire’ - and the Atlantic coast for the final push to the world’s southern most city: Ushuaia - known affectionately by the locals as ‘Fin del Mundo’, quite literally, ‘The End of the World’. Again, the ceaseless hospitality and customary friendliness of the locals - in particular my good friends Rosario and Roberto -, rearranged my travel plans and extended my original 3 nights hotel-stay, to a 2 week home-stay. Simply: they wouldn’t let me leave!