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Although it was raining when we set out, the locals assured us that
if we waited for good weather to make the run, we would wait a long time.
As it turned out, at the end of the 25 km or so, we actually had some
sunshine for pictures. This was a major production. Everyone's bike had
to be photographed by everybody individually in front of the sign, and
then group pictures with everybody's camera(s). We even enlisted a couple
of other tourists to take pictures so we could all be in them.
On our way back, we stopped at a campsite in the park, where we had
been told there were more motorcyclists. After a short run through a muddy
field we found them, 4 Germans and 2 Icelanders on various bikes. Two
of the women were on their own bikes. Birgit, a tall Icelandic woman on
a bike the same size (R80 G/S) as ours (but much less luggage, she's only
got her own gear, and shares tents etc. with her boyfriend Jo), and Astrid,
(also sharing loads and gear with her boyfriend, Daniel) smaller than
Susan, had ridden her (smaller - Suzuki DR350) bike all the way from Alaska.
We lined all the bikes (9) up in front of the river for new pictures,
but didn't stay long to visit as it was cold and wet.
Christmas Eve - in the evening the campground where Greg and the others
were staying had an all you can eat Argentinean style meat feed for $8,
so the motorcyclists and the backpackers mingled happily (all the motorcycle
guys tried to pick up the British girls - with varying degrees of success
we heard!). We met another Canadian there, Werner (originally from Germany),
a 60 year old recently retired professor from the Ottawa area who had
driven down on a motorcycle from Canada via Brazil and the Amazon, and
was on his way back up to be there in time for his wife's birthday in
April. (She evidently wasn't captivated by the idea of a motorcycle trip
through South America). We also met Guy and Marlene, a Belgian couple
at another campground who have been traveling for 3 1/2 years through
Asia (including Pakistan and Iran), Australia and now South America, the
last two of those years on a motorcycle, and will see them again tomorrow
at a party at their campground. So, we aren't short of parties to go to
and people to meet and talk to.
It's interesting to talk to the people who have come down through South
America by various routes, and get first-hand experiences of the roads
and the people, and the borders, etc. Certainly helps in the planning
process. For example, all of the people who have been through Colombia
had no problems, Greg picking it as his favorite country and plans to
go back. General impression of all the routes was that there are no insurmountable
obstacles, though some of the roads are not great. But certainly not like
Africa, where civil wars and coups mean that entire countries are closed.
The Big News is: On the 30th December we're going to ANTARCTICA.
That's our Christmas present to ourselves (and birthday presents for the
next few years). We're not taking the bike, that's a huge production and
very expensive, so we'll leave it here at the hotel. Antarctica has already
been done by motorcycle at least twice, one of them all the way to the
south pole according to Greg, otherwise the crazy in me might think about
it! The cruise is 8 days aboard a refurbished Russian research vessel
- 2 days each way and 4 days in Antarctica. The Russians no longer subsidize
their research vessels, so they have to pay their own way, and taking
passengers helps to defray their expenses. Although it was expensive,
it's less than half the price you pay if you book in North America, and
that isn't even considering the air fare to get to Ushuaia. Basically
it's a last minute booking since they don't want to travel with any empty
spaces.
We'll be back in Ushuaia on the 7th of January, then heading to Punta
Arenas and Puerto Natales, where we'll take a 4 day boat up to Puerto
Montt (with the bike). This saves going 1000 km back up Argentina, where
the roads are either boring or bad, then turning left to go to Chile.
Route: Rio
Gallegos --> Monte Aymond (Chile border) --> Punta
Delgada ferry (Chile) --> Cerro Sombrero --> San Sebastian (border)
--> Rio Grande --> Ushuaia.
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Home Shop the Souk
Grant & Susan's RTW Trip
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