Thanks Vando, I'm already watching these forks bier

A friend of mine is helping me to communicate with the seller (because seller's English is pretty bad), and he helps by translating my messages to German. He's a really big help.

Seller claims that these forks are the same as 2003, and KTM made 48mm forks with 26mm axle only since 2004, but I have found information that 48mm forks was an upgrade since 2003. (If anyone has confirmation on that please share it, it would really help me)
Plus, he misinformed my about the year of manufacture, he said it's 2003, and actually it's 2000, as I've said before.

I will open a dispute, but now I'm trying to negotiate on friendly terms: I guess I'll have to fail a complaint even if he agrees to accept return, as a guarantee to receive refund.

Anyway, today I received the front hub, and it's really nice.

I'll keep you updated!
Cheers! :scooter:

If they advertised the forks as 2003 EXC 525 forks but they are not, then they are 'not as described' and you must be fully refunded. It's eBay policy and I think it's law in most countries. Where eBay flouts 'distance selling' laws, however, is with return costs - indicating to sellers that they do not have to reimburse return 'shipping' charges. In fact, in the UK, the law states that you merely have to 'make the item available to the supplier'.

For smaller items, you'll normally find that the eBay seller will reimburse your return costs to encourage you not to leave them negative feedback - which, of course, you're bound to if you are out-of-pocket with absolutely nothing to show for it and all because of a lying, cheating description of the item for sale. I don't know how you'll fare with eBay or PayPal, though, because when it comes to return costs - even if their client acted dishonestly in making the sale - they do not seem to give a flying :censored: about buyers' return-costs.

As far as I recall, when you open an eBay 'case' to try to get your money back, nothing is done for a week. That's whether (a) it's the first time you have even mentioned it to anybody or (b) you've already had numerous exchanges and got absolutely nowhere with the seller. The seller should respond (make a comment) during that time but eBay don't do anything until you give up on the seller and force the case onward to eBay. I would start an eBay case as soon as possible (you can always cancel it early - as 'resolved' - if the seller pays up) in which you state the problem and what you would want to happen (i.e. full refund).

One thing: if what you have said is true, you are COMPLETELY in the right and the seller is COMPLETELY in the wrong... But go easy on the seller because he may have legitimately broken a 2003 bike, to which a former owner/keeper had added different forks, yokes, axle, wheels, etc. to rebuild the front end after a crash. That seller may not have even suspected that the parts were not the original ones. On the other hand, they may just be yet another "eBay bastard seller" - but you don't know that (yet).

Anyway... Good luck, Zergman. You must be pretty disappointed. Hope this helps.

You should never go by Year of the bike!
There are transition years where one bike can be sold in one country as a "test sale" and not sold in other countries.

For example, the XT600E was stopped being fabricated in 2003 and there were people claiming some were 2004 model which is impossible as it was discontinued in 2003!

You have to do your homework properly before engaging in anything similar to what you are doing!
I spent WEEKS researching compatibility part numbers for the several year models of YZ's and WR's when I went on buying the parts to replace my front suspension!

And in any doubt, ask the sellers to take measurements of the details that aren't making sense about the item so you can be 100% sure on what you are buying!

Talk to the seller, give him 48hours to respond.
If he doesn't, just open the item received is not as described complaint!

One important thing, don't ever threaten the seller on any of your messages to him!


Good luck!
Vando ;)

Thanks, Bigfoot. Yes, I am disappointed, and most likely I will loose some money. That always sucks.

I don't know if I will be perceived by eBay as right, or maybe as wrong. The situation is complicated, compared to other eBay deals I've had (selling and buying). I might have messed up myself.

Seller listed these forks as:
"Sie stammt aus eine KTM 520 EXC und passt sicher auch auf andere modelle (450, 520, 525, 530, EXC und SX)"
Meaning the forks are from 520 EXC, and will fit other models (450, 520, 525, 530, EXC and SX). There was no date in the listing.
Over eBay messages I asked what year it was, and now he said it's from a 2003 KTM EXC 525. Okay, I've checked the sources and found out that it's 48mm forks. Paid for it.
Payment was made via Bank Transfer. So this might be the most complicated part of returning an item, I think.

But there's markings all over the forks that these are made in 2000. Why lie? To make yourself some more unnecessary problems?
Here's some pictures, correct me if I'm wrong on the date...
http://imageshack.us/a/img827/1334/bild0159m.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img21/9418/bild0155.th.jpg

Anyway, I measured the top clamp of the triple trees (of this 43mm fork), and I'm worried if 48mm forks would clear the gas tank! I mean the top clamp could hit the tank, or could clear it by a couple of millimeters.
I actually could reduce the turn of the front fork, thus not letting the triples reach and hit the tank. That would reduce the maneuverability, but by very little. When riding, I haven't turned the handlebars till it hits the stopper. Have you? Only when maneuvering the bike in garage or etc.

Is it still a good idea to swap the front end? :confused1: was it a stupid idea from the beginning? I don't know, probably we'll just have to wait and see.

One more question for you guys: if anyone has a KTM, or any other bike with 48mm forks for that matter, could you measure the width of the top clamp, and the distance from the middle of the stem to the widest side of the clamp (where you measured the overall width)? That would help a lot!

2003 was the year when KTM upgraded the suspension. Parts I bought for the wheel (hub, axle) was also listed in year range starting at 2003.

I don't think I could find any info on the compatibility of KTM parts for Yamaha...

Yes, I know I messed up on that, and it's because I've never been "burnt" by anything like this when dealing on eBay. Every seller was very competent.
I should have asked for measurements even if I knew the year. But let's not be Captains Hindsights here, hehe.
Seller hasn't responded to my last message for well over 24hrs. He had responded earlier.
I haven't threatened him, and I know I can't, that would only make things worse. I am trying to be as polite as I possibly can.

No, it's not. It's a 43mm forks with 20mm axle: seller states 19mm, but I think it's another "bastard seller" who doesn't know what he is selling.

Got a partial refund from the seller, so I'll be keeping/selling the forks, whichever I find appropriate and good for myself.

I'm having doubts on whether I should continue on my quest for the KTM front swap. Maybe I just should make SM wheel set for original setup, and save the money on a real KTM? Because I want a hard enduro bike, and I am listing this bike for sale. But, if I'm not getting the price I want (what the bike cost me) I'm keeping it. I'll earn the money that I would get for selling this bike, but I don't think I can earn back the bike with all the love put into it!

And a little update: new tires, Mitas C-02 and C-19. Who said the season is over when the snow falls??? :rofl: (sorry for the crappy phone-camera)

http://imageshack.us/a/img194/751/nuotrauka0272.th.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img20/8267/nuotrauka0271.th.jpg

Any updates? :)

Not much going on right now. I'm trying to enjoy this (a bit crappy) winter. Waiting for ice to thicken over the lakes.

I made a DIY studded rear tire (in the picture it is before welding and shortening):
http://imageshack.us/a/img707/8885/dscn1311c.th.jpg
And it's made like this (process-not my video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohkpcaim6EU

Scrapped the "KTM front swap" idea at least for the moment.

Regular maintenance: got a new air filter.

I'm searching for another set of wheels for summer MX tires (so I would not need to re-fit everything every season, as it's not too good for tires and rims), re-balance everything, etc.
Fitted rim-locks to the winter wheels.

Also gave the front damaged SM 17" rim to the (not-so-good) specialists (but there's no better ones in 200km radius), straightened it a bit, but it needs to be laced and trued to see if it's really usable. I think it is.
Bought FAG bearings (yeah... who gave those bearings that name? >.< ) for rear wheel, seal, still need some more stuff to rebuild the hubs for SM.
Need spokes, contacted Buchanan's, I'll order both sets once I have some spare money. I should ask for a discount, as my second name is Buch, it's "my company", hehe! (in Lithuanian it has an ending -as, so Buchas).

Anyway, it's listed for sale at 1800EUR + summer and winter tires 100EUR/set: if I sell it - I'll buy a hard enduro (probably KTM/Husaberg). If not - I'll keep the bike, "personalize" it further, and save money for another bike! You can never have too many of them... :scooter:

Cool tire :clap:

I used to use small woodscrews to put in the tire, for driving in the winter when i lived in Denmark. Then you drive on the screw heads, works quiet well as long as you dont put to many. Otherwise the tire have no grip on dry road.

bier

Thanks :thumbup1:

I had the same idea, haha, it's similar to Kold Kutter screws.

But these are special nails, meant to be shot into concrete (yes, SHOT, with a special nail pistol, and special rounds with gunpowder). They are made of very tough steel!

The problem is that you have to put something inside the tire to protect the inner tube from the nail heads rubbing and puncturing it. I used an old firefighter's hose (cut it along one side, then glued it with silicone, and pressed the hose to tire with inflating the inner tube).
Downside of that... Approximately 12 hours of pure work. Drilling, fitting nails, hammering washers and huts, welding, cutting, gluing... 285 nails in the rear tire.

Others are using wood screws that has a tip to go through metal sheets.
Looks like this: http://www.soloscrew.co.in/full-imag...ead-733848.jpg
on clean ice these are unbeatable. Very very good traction. But a little softer metal, means on gravel/tarmac they will wear quicker.

It's -15C outside, and I'll go check the ice tomorrow! Can't wait! :clap:

P.S. yes, there's no grip on dry road, but on ice - twist the throttle and the bike does a wheelie!

From Denmark here, I do the exact same thing when the winther gets tough.

Not sure what the cops would say about it tho'.....They'd probably go :nono:

Yes, probably, at least for DIY tires.

My front tire is factory made, with original studs, and they have carbide tips.

Anyway, it's sh***y traction on the tarmac, so I would not drive and risk an accident to happen. It's only good on ice, and on fields (grass) with snow.

Gravel/sand roads in the woods has packed snow because of the cars and heavy machinery, but that snow is too weak to hold the bike steady and too tough for knobbies to go through. I've been for a drive last night in the woods and it was a constant battle with the bike to keep it straight and steady.

Haven't got into the Lithuanian laws yet, what's allowed and what's not during the winter for the bikes. My bike's insurance has ended, so I don't have it for the moment: it's money wasted as I can't ride in the winter now (excluding a few forest blasts...). But anyway, I'm not riding in town during winter (I live in a town of ~2500 people). And if I go to the lake (there's a couple nearby) I'll probably take the bike with me on a trailer, to keep the rear tire from touching the tarmac and rubbing the spikes.

Checked the ice on one of the lakes yesterday: the thickness is 19cm closer to shore, and 14cm where it's deeper water.
I checked up to 100m away from shore, as the middle of the lake, where it's deepest is ~700m away, too long of a walk, and still the ice will be too thin and dangerous anyway.

So MAYBE I'll test the ice somewhere closer to shore, maybe up to 50m away, or maybe I'll wait for some cold weather to come. It's now ~-7C and there's ~15cm of snow on the ice, doesn't let it to freeze properly :thumbdown:

When it comes to ice riding - global warming sucks! :censored:

:helpsmilie:

Guys, have you encountered carburetor frosting? If yes, did you solve that problem, and if yes - how?

Today I went to the lake, to have some fun, and after 5-6 minutes of driving the engine started loosing power, misfiring, and then I understood that the carb has frozen. I barely got home (2-3km) and probably the vacuum valve (or however it's called: right part of the carb) has frozen, and when I'm not giving gas it's still RPM-ing high.

Thoughts: take some copper wire/tube/rod (~3-5mm thick), one end of it bend around the exhaust pipe at the cylinder, other end - around carb, so the heated copper rod heats the carb. OR make some hot air "pickup" from the exhaust pipe to the air filter. Another thought is to make some sort of "hot air catchers", and they would direct hot air from cylinder to the carb.
And maybe last thought: electrical heater for a carb (???). Like this one off a KTM, if possible (SOMEHOW) to adapt it to the XT... Brand New KTM Carburetor Heating Kit XC XCW 2006 2012 55131003044 | eBay