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  #31  
Old 7 Jun 2012
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Hey there!

I had one of those EUREKA moments today! (and I hope I'm right...)

After checking the stator if it gives AC current (and it does), I checked for continuity between all white wires (there is continuity, and resistance meets manual's specifications) and between all whites and ground as you said (there's no continuity between whites and ground).

So then I've checked the regulator/rectifier. The three whites gives it AC current, but the red wire that goes to battery and to the ignition lock gives AC current too! As far as I know, and if I'm correct, the red wire should be DC current! My rectifier does not rectify the current, haha!

So my first question is: should the bike run with the regulator/rectifier disconnected? And how to (properly) check it?

So onto responding.

The side stand switch is good, I checked it, also tried bypassing - no spark. Anyway, the side stand switch is there to cut off the engine if it is in gear with side stand down.

The spark plug cap and ignition coil has good connections. And the gas tank doesn't pull on wires. The gas tank is taken off while I'm looking for the spark anyway. There's two different size connectors on the ignition coil, so there's no way to swap them.

There is a ground wire. It was a very horrible one before, so I had it re-done, and fitted it again. Before fitting the ground wire I scraped off some paint and primer to make a good ground connection. The ground is connected to the place where one of the chain rollers is bolted on.
Imageshack - dscn7339f.jpg

Last edited by Zergman; 11 Sep 2013 at 15:34.
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  #32  
Old 7 Jun 2012
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Unless the battery is good, the bike won't run without the charging system working; sounds like you need a new reg/rectifier.

Well done!

I would charge the battery and retry as that will power the coil if all else is good.

Reg/rectifier units are cheap on e-bay.

Good luck.
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  #33  
Old 7 Jun 2012
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That "eureka" moment was not the case for the bike not running. The battery was almost dead, but still had enough power to run all lights. My battery charger (the device) is toasted, I need a new one, so at the moment I don't have a battery charger to use.

But I had another EUREKA moment, and this one was the one I needed!!! THE BIKE RUNS! I figured out what's wrong with it after sitting for quite a while and watching the wiring diagram.

Long story short: the "ENGINE RUN" switch was OFF.

Long story long:

The wiring diagram shows that when you set the switch at "RUN" it disconnects the two wires, and connects them when you set it at "OFF". That's not what I was logically expecting. I thought that if you want to start the engine you have to connect some wires...

As I mentioned before I fitted the '09 Yamaha R6 engine kill switch and starter button assembly. That assembly connects two wires for "RUN" and disconnects for "OFF". The original XT switch connects the two wires when "OFF" and disconnects when "RUN".

So now I have to set my new switch at "OFF" to start the engine and set it on "RUN" to kill the engine.

After I figured that out the bike started on the second kick
and after all the plastics were fitted I was off to the woods!

Anyway, the wiring was a good purchase, the ignition coil was a good purchase too, because the old one is toast, but I'm not sure of the CDI. My old one might have been a good working one all the time (I'll need to test it). So I will have one for spare or for sale.

My regulator/rectifier looks like it's charging the battery, because the starter barely turned the engine over and now it's stronger than before (it will need some more charging I guess). But it has some cracks in the resin casting over the micro-scheme. So it will be replaced sooner or later.

Tip for myself and anyone else: don't buy a bike with trashed wiring; don't experiment with wiring - just get a new/working one and save yourself some damn money!
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  #34  
Old 7 Jun 2012
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And here's some pictures.

Xenon kit - just where I had put the ballast, and the rest is pretty much stuffed and ziptied together with all the other wires. Installation was plug and play - one wire went to battery +, another to the ground, and the final socket connected to the original light bulb connector. No adaptations needed. Only had to disassemble the light bulb to fit the protective rubber.

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  #35  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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Oh my oh my... I could punch you in the gut right now if I could! :P

Well, you do have space to fit the ballast there with the stock headlight bracket...but I ain't got that anymore..

I'll try to post up some pics tomorrow of how I mounted my kit.. have to go fix the flat rear tire first ;|

I'm wondering here...
If your engine has the placement for the e-start and you don't have the e-start motor, what is covering the hole on the LHS engine casing where the e-start motor fits?


Ride safe!
Vando
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  #36  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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Yeah, I wanted to punch myself too...

I wouldn't have EVER thought that Yamaha could think of this: to disconnect wires for the engine to be ON, and connect them for "ENGINE STOP". The other switch (the new one) does it's job just as the common sense would tell me: it connects two wires for the engine "RUN" and disconnects for "STOP".

Well, I guess the lesson is that the common sense isn't always right.

You are wondering what's covering the starter motor hole, but I'm wondering why you are thinking that there's no starter motor? I haven't said that there's no starter motor. Just the bike's wiring is not compatible with e-start, that's why I had to wire the e-starter myself and swap the RHS switch assembly. Maybe misunderstanding/miscommunication?
There is a starter motor: look closely at all pictures. The starter motor is painted black, so it's a little harder to see.
If there would not be a starter motor why then would I swap the "engine run/stop + starter button" assembly, that caused me a lot of troubles? And why would I install the starter solenoid and all the wiring? Where's your common sense?

Have you swapped the headlight and that's why there's no room for ballast? Waiting for pics
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  #37  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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Oh.. I thought you didn't have the e-motor at all...lol

oh..the switch... didn't think of that...Touchée! xD

Pictures later today hopefully...need to go fix my rear tire..it's flat but there's nothing stuck on the tire.. :|
Bike stands on top of a chair right now xD


Vando
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  #38  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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Yep, the switch was the problem. Who could have thought that original switch works completely opposite from what it "says" it does...

Inflate the inner tube (but not too much) and dip it under water - you will see bubbles. And carefully feel the inner tire part with your hand for the cause of the puncture, if it's still there. Hope you get your bike on two wheels soon
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  #39  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zergman View Post
That "eureka" moment was not the case for the bike not running. The battery was almost dead, but still had enough power to run all lights. My battery charger (the device) is toasted, I need a new one, so at the moment I don't have a battery charger to use.

But I had another EUREKA moment, and this one was the one I needed!!! THE BIKE RUNS! I figured out what's wrong with it after sitting for quite a while and watching the wiring diagram.

Long story short: the "ENGINE RUN" switch was OFF.

Long story long:

The wiring diagram shows that when you set the switch at "RUN" it disconnects the two wires, and connects them when you set it at "OFF". That's not what I was logically expecting. I thought that if you want to start the engine you have to connect some wires...

As I mentioned before I fitted the '09 Yamaha R6 engine kill switch and starter button assembly. That assembly connects two wires for "RUN" and disconnects for "OFF". The original XT switch connects the two wires when "OFF" and disconnects when "RUN".

So now I have to set my new switch at "OFF" to start the engine and set it on "RUN" to kill the engine.

After I figured that out the bike started on the second kick
and after all the plastics were fitted I was off to the woods!

Anyway, the wiring was a good purchase, the ignition coil was a good purchase too, because the old one is toast, but I'm not sure of the CDI. My old one might have been a good working one all the time (I'll need to test it). So I will have one for spare or for sale.

My regulator/rectifier looks like it's charging the battery, because the starter barely turned the engine over and now it's stronger than before (it will need some more charging I guess). But it has some cracks in the resin casting over the micro-scheme. So it will be replaced sooner or later.

Tip for myself and anyone else: don't buy a bike with trashed wiring; don't experiment with wiring - just get a new/working one and save yourself some damn money!
When i was 16 i borrowed my mates ty50 moped.
After dinner went to start it, nothing. Kicked and kicked it. Kickstart that is!. Pushed it three miles towards home before i realised some dick had turned the kill switch onto stop. Never made the same mistake again
Atb and well done
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  #40  
Old 8 Jun 2012
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If only I kept the original switch assembly I had the bike running quite a while ago!

All the problem was in that new switch assembly: the new switch markings were opposite in function to the original switch.

As we say here in Lithuania: you live, you learn, and still you die stupid
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  #41  
Old 9 Jun 2012
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Moving on...

After I've ridden my bike again I felt the front brake disc jamming (don't know how to call that) a little more when stopping - I mean as if the disc was bent in one place. It's not visually bent, but I feel the bike shaking forward when the wheel gets stopped more in one part of the disc. And that feeling increased after I changed the brake pads.

The original disc may perform well enough but if I'm changing the disc I'd like an upgrade: never mind that little extra price to pay. Of course I would love the double front disc upgrade, but single disc is enough to lock the front wheel and send you over the handlebars, so double discs would be just for the looks (and too pricy to pay for just the looks...).

New front disc should not only perform better than the original but also look better too and as I'm changing the front one I may just change the rear one as well brake pads are new and haven't set in just yet.

So the obvious choice is to change the front brake disc, but the question is - what new disc(s) to buy?
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  #42  
Old 9 Jun 2012
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I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding!
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  #43  
Old 9 Jun 2012
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I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding!
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  #44  
Old 9 Jun 2012
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I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding!
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  #45  
Old 9 Jun 2012
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What can cause the caliper to act like this?

But I doubt it's the brake caliper.
The brake disc is shiny due to wear, but one part of the friction part is darker due to less wear (about 10cm of it's perimeter). I drove it slowly, breaking, and I noticed that when this darker part meets the brake pads the friction releases, and after that when brake pads are on the shiny part again the friction increases throwing the bike (and me) forward.

I tried to take a picture but it cannot be seen on a picture due to a lot of shine.

I took a marker and painted some black stripes on the disc, and the stripes on the "darker part" of the disc lasted longer.

The brake pads are not completely on the brake disc, and the brake disc is not fully used (about 2/3 of the disc is used). Is that normal? The old brake pads where touching each other when I took them out.
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