XT600E carb bowl drain screw and bashplate
 

Hi all

I just bought a 2000 XT600E 4PTA with 4500 km on the clock. :clap: Pretty happy with the find.

I can’t drain the carb bowl since the drain screw has some weird “Philips” (cross) head. Anyone know what it is and where I can get one?

I need a decent bash plate before next summer. Any recommendations?

Get what? a screwdriver?

Bash plate here. if your in the UK? nice if you would fill your profile out. :thumbup1:

Mezo.

Thanks Mezo.

No, not a regular screwdriver . The drain screw head looks similar to a ordinary “Philips” head but is not. I guess it is a anti-tamper thing.


That bash plate looks great. Just what I need.


Sorry, yes I will fill out my profile.

Nevermind... apparently the carb drain screw is just a regular Phillips head, but mangled up in a beautifully uniform way. After spending some time on all fours with a magnifying glass I’m not 100% sure, but I guess it must be.

A 'Pozidriv'? Wouldn't that be on the blunt end of a self-tapping woodscrew. :w00t:

Maybe it's NOT using a Philips-head driver that's mashing your screwhead, Mezo. :detective:

Bash Plate
 

Hi,

I can recommend this bash plate, got one on my XT600E. Is one solid bit of kit that looks capable of protecting against anything....... landmines?!?! When I bought it they described it as basically a coal scuttle and I'd say that's pretty accurate.

Only negative I'd have is due to the curvature and total coverage of the bottom of the engine it reflects some sound upwards towards you. Not a big deal, but seems more noticeable.

Richard

For others having the same problem, here is how I dealt with the mangled drain screw in the carb.

1. Pulled the carb.
2. Drilled a 1,5mm hole in the screw head, you can drill quite deep, see the pic.(the wide, threaded part of the screw is quite long). I went with 1,5mm drill bit, but 1,6 mm probably would have been even better.
3. Tapped a T-8 tork bit in the hole.
4. Unscrewed the mangled screw, no problems.

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/9264/epf.JPG

I have used Tork bits for years now for extracting broken bolts, instead of them reverse screw extractor bits. One can use small diameter drill bits, and since the tork bits are not conical there is less danger of expanding the broken bolts end and getting it even more stuck in the hole.



Thanks for the advice regarding the bash plate, the CRD plate has saved my engine cases at least twice. Great plate. Now I need to get out the sledgehammer and straighten it a little...


http://imageshack.us/a/img842/2161/o713.jpg

Thanks:thumbup1:

I wish almost all Phillips head, posi head or slotted screws would fall off the planet. Torx or Torx Plus are my favorites and I've switched a pile of screws on many of my toys to them . Get most from KTM sources , they also have a hex outside as another option. However they need to be sent out and get zinc plated because they tend to rust easy sometimes.

I used to HATE Torx..... Mainly because I didn't have the right tools for them.

However, now I love them.... You can put a lot more torque into them without the head stripping compared to Philips or Posi.

The only disadvantage is that they require you be dead straight with your tool. With an allen, you can use a ball ended driver for offset angles.

I will 2nd what g600 says on the txe bits...anyone that's got any of them tapered so called easy out things needs to throw them in the river before they attempt to use them...I have a guy that's done the occasional spark eroding job for me and he loves the tapered extractors..as people inevitably snap them off in what they are trying to extract end up completly in the shit and have pay him to get the wreckage out...tapping a torx bit in is definitly the way forward..done quite a few ktm kickstart bolts in this way..
I'm not completly convinced on these ribe bit things the Italians seemed to have taken to for screwing motor cars together with though?..

Thread extractors do work.... It's knowing when and if to use them You have to drill out the thread until you can get 3/4 of the extractor biting or it's no good. And it won't work on severely corroded studs as their chemically bonded.

LOTS of heat helps. More than people believe. Forget propane. You need MAP gas. Not expensive from Screwfix etc.