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#1
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Stuck Steering Head Bearings
Has anyone got some tips for removing the lower tripple clamp bearings. The top races were not a problem and even removing the race from the frame came out easily with some heat. However the bottom races are both proving difficult.
The race in the frame is set so there is basically no lip to allow anything to get a grip and drive it out (I use an old axle which works a treat). The other side of the race on the bottom tipple clamp is even worse. the little bugger is protected by a plastic and metal flange which I have cut away to allow some access but there is still no lip to drive anything on to get the thing off. I heated the bearing but am rather cautious of the alloy on the bottom of the clamp... Does anyone have any tricks in this area? The offender in question is an '85 Tenere
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#2
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the race in the frame does have very small lip so you need a long chisel or punch with a small head, your old axle is probably too fat and soft to get any good strikes on it.
the race on the triple clamp is a pig to get off cos they are heated before fitting so they are shrink fitted and you cant just heat it back up to get it off cos the shaft heats up too and expands aswell so its a case of either cutting it off or using a couple of chisels to force it up the shaft if you have not got a bearing separator its a pig of a job i use one of these
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XT 630 SUPERMOTO GSXR750L KMX200 ![]() RF900 & GSX400X Impulse Projects 3.9 V8 Rangerover |
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#3
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Can you weld something on it? I have not used that trick for this bearing, but I have gotten out difficult ball bearings from engine blocs by welding sockets on them..
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---------- Yamaha TT600RE '05, Honda XR400 '03, Yamaha XT550 '83 |
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#4
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Thanks guys. I will give the race in the frame another shot and might have to pull out mr Dremel for the one on the shaft of the tripple clamp.
I did just come across this one though.... which looks like they have a very cool tool for the job! Infra's 1993 R100GS Maintenance and Improvement Thread - Page 39 - ADVrider |
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#5
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the dremel is probably your best bet to get it off the shaft b'cos without that separator you will mark the yoke
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XT 630 SUPERMOTO GSXR750L KMX200 ![]() RF900 & GSX400X Impulse Projects 3.9 V8 Rangerover |
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#6
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These are always a TW*T to remove and I recommend you order the lower dust seal that sits under the race because this is almost almost damaged or destroyed trying to remove the race..
My technique is to now use a dremel (or axel grinder if you have a steady hand) and grind in some steps or holes into the race for drifting points. Do not attempt to grind the race completely off as you will almost certainly grind into the steerer tube creating a stress point. Persist with a drift and it WILL move. It may take an age and you think you're getting nowhere but it will eventually start moving..
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www.touringted.com |
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#7
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For the bearing inside the frame. weld a bead all around teh inside, when it cools it will shrink the bearing.
For the one on th eeluminium shaft you might try popping it in afreezer for a while. ally shrinks more than steel. maybe heat the ally when you remove the assembly from the freezer ( heat only the steel with a small flame) |
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#8
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hi there i did the head bearings on my 1985 43f about 4 months ago it was the worst head bearing job ive done the ones on the bottom yoke were tricky i think i just weakened the surface with a dremel in a couple of places and hit it carefully with a hammer/drift/chisel until the bearing race cracked on the weak spots. the ones in the frame were a nightmare i put a small nick/groove in the frame where the bearing sits and used this with a good drift to get a good hold on the bearing this worked but was still v,v difficult . if the frame paint finish is not too inportant weld a small bolt or bar across the surface then just drift on the bolt, easy. if you do dremmel the frame, just enough to lightly touch the frame no more . the trick as seid before is slowly , slowly they will go, may be get a mate to help. good luck zigzag
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