Stripped oil filter thread

[bikerfromsark]

Hey Iv done the searches and have one question left, which oil filter cover bolt hole has the oil channel in it...the bottom one correct?? what about the top two do they? Th top right thread is knackered. dont let any one ever touch them other than yourself!!!! In Sudan now so not the best place to happen esp at the moment! Fiting the longer bolt to grasp a couple of the extra threads in the bottom of the hole seems to be the best option for now and get it done properly in Kenya next month...well that is if the boarder opens before then... Also I hav't ridden it yet to see, but what about just using the other two to hold on the cover will that be enought?
Cheers George

[cyberzar]

Open the small cover. Clean all contact sides throughly to remove oil. Try to find a new o-ring for the cover, if possible.
Close everything using black loctite for gaskets(do not exceed with it, and stay on the external side, after the o-ring, if it goes internally it could close oil lines). Let it dry for 24 hours, then cross your fingers. That area is under pressure from oil pump, so if the third screw can go in, use it.

[bikerfromsark]

Thanks thats sounds good, I have hermatite Red, Do you know if this screw hole (top right) has a oil channel. (i think it is only the bottom one)
George

[cyberzar]

Originally Posted by bikerfromsark

Thanks thats sounds good, I have hermatite Red, Do you know if this screw hole (top right) has a oil channel. (i think it is only the bottom one)
George

correct oil flows through bottom screw only. But follow the above guidelines, and do not exceed with the hermatite

[Rolling20s]

use a 6mm x 1 thread helicoil. You can use it in the bottom hole as well, but make sure the helicoil goes in past the oil galley/hole. You'll have to be very careful when breaking off the tab so you can remove it. Otherwise you'll have to remove the clutch cover to retrieve it.

[dhinder]

I 've had the same problem..after researching helicoils I foound another way.The threads can be tapped deeper and longer bolts use. Drilled holes for thread are typically drilled 10 to 15 mm than the thread. I found after cleaning the debris out of the holes I could go almost 20 mm deeped before I bottomed out the tap. Cut or grind the lead-in on the tap to maximize the thread. Then longer bolts M6 x 90 mm ( I think)...you now have 10 mm of new thread to use...go easy on the tightening you only need enough the compress the o-ring. I took the crankcase cover off for this procedure, but you should be able to do it with the cover in place. Make sure all the cuttings from the tap are removed.
Also a couple years ago I replaced the bolt @ 6 o'clock with a M8 and it has worked fine.
Good Luck

[wrussell]

hello i have recently had the exactly the same bolt strip its thread as i was re assembling my engine the way i done it was to get a piece of threaded m6 bar (my one was about a foot long )and i screwed it in as deep and as tight as poss by hand and then i screwed a nyloc nut and washer (not to tight) on it and then cut the excess off and it is holding tight i might have to do a better repair at a later date but i was trying to get my engine running after a rebuild and just wanted a quick fix to get it assembled.
just another idea but good luck and i hope you get it sorted