Stator questions.
 

Hi !
My XT is giving me a hard time again, now it runs but it does not charge correctly. When I ohm the wiring from the stator there is contact between 2 of 3 so I think the stator is shot so I need a new one.
I was looking at Wemoto but there the have several options in size so I don`t know witch one to buy because I`m not home so I can check it out. I was planing to order it so when I got back from work in 2 weeks it was waiting for me ready to make the switch.
This is the remarks :

Part Information

-Size 103x42x16mm 3 wires -please check as there is an alternative part which is 115x54x18 with 3 wires (EL-G9) for some xtz750 and xt600z. -Could also be Electrex EL-G45 115x54x18 with 5 wires




All I can remember is that from the stator there is a connection with 3 white and 1 red cable and so is there the cable from the pickup as well.


Any one that can give a advice witch one to buy ? I Have a 600 Tenere 1vj.
Here i a picture of the old one, not a good one.

I can give you the OEM part number if that helps?

1VJ-85510-50-00 (search that on Google)

Mezo.

Continuity between only two out of the three means your stator is KAPUT!
You can have that grounded phase rewound or you can buy a new stator..

Measure your stator outer diameter, thickness and internal diameter and go ebay a new one!


Vando ;)

Mezo : If I did the google search I only got up OEM parts and the price was to high for me.

Bacardi23 : I was expecting so.

After a search on seversl web pages I found this one( http://www.bbbikeshop.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_Alternators.html ) that show only one option for the stator, the G 45. I will also replace the regulator rectifier, here are 2 option, regular RR 08 and the high power version nr RR98. I think I go for the high power one.

Any one used this shop before ?

Is it high power output? if it is then go with the normal one! anymore power than the 14.4volts DC output off the RR will kill your battery in no time flat!

A good and proper RR upgrade for the XT would be an RR that grounds the excess current directly to the frame ground instead of dissipating it by heat!


Good luck!
Vando beer

Now I finaly got the time to change my stator so now it runs and all look to be fine.
The stator was a little bit slimmer that the old one but it fits, it was also some work with the wiring.
Did not change the RR, will do some tests before i do tomorrow.
The only problem now is that the neutral light is on when it`in 1 gear to but stop lighting when the bike start to move.
Any idea what is wrong ?

You've squeezed the cable between the crankcases and not it is grounding.
What this does is the neutral light will stay on always!

You have to either Option1: cut that portion of the wiring and make a new wire and connect it to the neutral switch or Option2: take out the engine casing AGAIN insulate the cable where it is bare with tape or heatshrink and maybe that will work out.

Either way, those are the only options...
Option 1 is the easiest one and is probably what you will have to do anyways if ya do go with option2...



Vando beer

The light is only on when it`s in 1 gear and goes of as soon the bike is moving.
I did change the wire because it was bad and I put on new protection, can the neutral switch gone bad because I was not able to open the screw that hold the cable, it just goes around and around.

Uhmmm that's weird..

When I replaced my stator I squeezed the neutral cable and the Neutral light was always on..

It could be that the Neutral switch is somewhat starting to fail as you mention the screw goes around-and-around and does not come out...


Personally, I replaced my neutral switch as it was seeping oil from the o-ring..

Maybe get a new one?
It's not that expensive..


Vando ;)

I tried to take it out but I gave up so I will order me a new and change it soon.

Thanks for the help so far :-)