Ange

Yes I see, I was assuming they had failed ie sheared. Maybe the original spec bolts have been replaced with a different spec that did not shear hence the damage. Thats why I specified using yamaha original bolts as replacements. Depending on cost/availability of replacement starter clutch if there is room you might be able to fit an longer bolt with a nut on the other side?, best used a nyloc nut or even drill and wire it? . Bear in mind though if it fails again it may do even more damage so maybe a new starter clutch assy is the way to go?

Regards

Robin

Ah. Just found that a new rotor comes through at £250, the starter clutch is £80, which I could handle, but over £330 for both... hmm... ! Bearing in mind the age and condition of my bike, I'm not sure it'd be money well spent.

Excuse me while I work on plan B. Any suggestions willingly taken on board. Robin, I'll think about your suggestions tonight whilst I scowl at the bike in a subdued manner!

Ange

Ange

Post some pictures up of the damaged parts if possible, so we can get a better idea of what needs replacing. Normal most things can be repaired to some degree or another. Having looked at the manual a little closer it seems you could get the threads repaired with 'helicoils' this is where the holes are drilled larger and a new replacement thread fitted or drill holes larger and cut a new thread using a tap and fit larger bolts (you will also have to drill out starter clutch). Or depending on the material you could get the parts welded together, all you need to be careful of is getting the rotor with the magnets too hot. Certainly think a cheaper repair option is an alternative to buying a new rotor.

Regards

Robin

They *have* sheared!!! Please remember, I'm on a steep learning curve!

Closer inspection of the rotor last night, showed that the bolts were longer than I thought (I thought they were just short stubby things), so maybe it will be possible to drill them out.

So back to Robin's plan A then!! :-D

Ange

(It's a roller coaster ride of emotions this mechanicking! - I think I can fix it, I think I can't, I think I can, I think I can't...)

PS. Working on the photos.

Ange

Fortunately the rotor sits in oil its whole time so you should not have any issues with rust, however it may do no harm to spray some plus gas into the hole where the sheared studs are to soak overnight before attempting to extract them. Also there are different types of stud extractor, I have put a link to the type I am referring to which are also called 'spiral screw extractors', I have not used this company it is just an example of the tool required:-

KD2419 KD Removal Tool KD KD2419 Spiral Screw Extractor Set - From Lawson HIS - UK

You will also need a t-bar or t-handle tap wrench to turn the screw extractor with. Good luck and remember the pictures.

Regards

Robin

Hi Ange, Maybe now is the time to take the offending article to someone who can have a look at it and give you some advice. They may not have wanted to do the job due to time etc but I'm sure they'll give you a bit of free advice. Pics would help here, I'll PM you my e-mail and I'll post them for you.

Here are some pics Ange sent me of the work so far...








I'm sure Ange will add the comentary.

Ange

Looking at the pictures it still looks repairable , would be useful to see the other side of the starter clutch assy to assess its state. But it is certainly worth extracting the bolts and getting new bolts to test fit in the holes and see if they will hold. Looking at the damage I am wondering if the bolts initially came loose and then allowed movement of the starter clutch against the rotor which would have bent them under load, the burrs around the holes on the rotor may need grinding down if the metal is to hard for a file, the surface will need to be flat. More pics showing boths sides of related parts would be useful, but I think you have enough to be going on with.

Regards

Robin

Hi Ange I am in your area and if you are still having problems give us a ring.01932874257 Paul

I fixed my Serow, I fixed my Serow, tra la, la la la la.....

Sorry for the long absence. I bet you thought I'd taken your good advice and then legged it (not true). Anyway, I'm back with good news - The Serow works. ...it cost me a fraction of what it would have done if I'd taken it to a mechanic, and I've learned a little bit more about how bikes work.

Thank you ever so much for all your help and advice, I think it's very probable I wouldn't have attempted this repair without your help and encouragment (let alone succeeded!)

The starter clutch was replaced with a new one, but the rotor it attaches to was rescued. The sheared off bolts were drilled out and replaced with new. The burrs on the rotor were filed down, so it could sit flush against the clutch. New gasket and bolts for the crankcase were fitted, and the oil was changed. ...and the best thing is, I did it all myself (with a bit of help from my boyfriend where some extra muscle, or two pairs of hands were required)

Once everything was back together, I just needed to charge the battery, bleed the fuel from the carb thing (honesty moment: I'm not quite sure what I'm doing here, I just know it needs to be done if been sitting a few months), and it started with just a bit of choke. Wooo-yeah!

I now have my living room back, but am thinking of wheeling my Honda Bros inside, as apparently they're a doddle to de-restrict...

Ange

PS. I've still got the photos, if anyone wants me to jot down a quick walk through of the experience!!

Well done Ange, happy serowing.

[quote=Ange;206143](It's a roller coaster ride of emotions this mechanicking! - I think I can fix it, I think I can't, I think I can, I think I can't...)

quote]


Love it! Been there etc etc. and that was also with a Yam (not a Serow) which is how I got involved in this website (mucho thanks to Tedmagnum for the advice + a few others - you know who you are).
I love a good news story - keep trucking!!!

__________________
Dave