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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by Ellen Delis, Lagunas Ojos del Campo, Antofalla, Catamarca

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Photo by Ellen Delis,
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Antofalla, Catamarca



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  #31  
Old 29 May 2007
*Touring Ted*'s Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markzz View Post
Ted how did you go with your broken studs..
Mine had 1 broken stud, on removing the other 3 (after soaking in penatrine for about 2 weeks) I managed to snap another. I then decided to remove them all and replace them with Stainless studs. the threads in the head were so damaged by the original rusty studs I just Helicoiled the lot. Mind you my motor was (and is) out of the bike.
Consider that the Stainless studs will not be as tough as a cap screw and may only be as tough as a mild steel stud.. Point is they break.

I had to drill and collaps my broken studs. If you use an easyout be very careful. I expect it won't work and of course if you break it in there the job becomes much larger.
The studs on the XT are a majot design flaw. They are far too thin.

I had two broken studs. One just had enough left for me to weld on a nut and remove it fairly easily and the other one I had to painstakingly drill out. I put a time-sert in instead of a helicoil because they are much stronger.

I dont think stainless is a good idea. Its not nearly as strong as the original but im interested to see how you go.

I used PLENTY of copper slip on reinstallion and I plan to change to change them every 2 years.

To get them in and out easily, just put 2 nuts on the stud. Tighten them together to create a lock nut effect.
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  #32  
Old 29 May 2007
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I an still considering getting (or probably making) some brass nuts. Just like the old morris had..
Again the issue is the strength.
How much pressure is realy required to hold the header in place?? Maybe I'll use a second copper gasket..
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  #33  
Old 29 May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markzz View Post
I an still considering getting (or probably making) some brass nuts. Just like the old morris had..
Again the issue is the strength.
How much pressure is realy required to hold the header in place?? Maybe I'll use a second copper gasket..
Two gaskets will start messing with alignment and may effect the seal.

Brass nuts should be ok. I think just applying copperslip and cracking them lose every now and then will be fine.
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  #34  
Old 2 Jan 2008
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Hi. I've found that Pro Circuit makes the header pipes for the XT600E here is the link:

Pro Circuit Products

they cost US$324.95

I also know that there is at least one more header pipes for the XT600E... they are the best looking one I've ever seen... the two tubes that go into the cylinder fit in the "Y" on the main tube and locks with springs... it looks awesome and is stainless steel... I've had the link for the website who sells it but I've lost it.. anyone got it?
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  #35  
Old 2 Jan 2008
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I have a Laser stainless system on my 3AJ XT600 it is about 6 years old.
The exhaust and down pipes are fine but the clamps that hold the down pipes to the cylinder are very badly rusted and need replacing which means getting new ones made or buying another set of down pipes.
I also have a CRD absolute power 2 on my TTR 600 this was ok untill the baffle inside the exhaust fell apart. I got a new baffle from CRD but the packing for this silincer has been discontinued ( it was like a foam tube that fitted over the baffle in 2 pieces) so had to roll some packing around the baffle. The bike is now too loud.
I have an arrow system on my other 3AJ it has NOT FOR ROAD USE on it but is not very loud.
If I had to buy another pipe I would get another arrow
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  #36  
Old 2 Jan 2008
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i knocked up my own '1 of kind' exhaust at the start of the year. the silencer and link pipe was originally off a yzf250 mx bike. Unused from new i picked it up cheap from a friend and made it fit with some cutting, shaping and tig welding. It actually looks quite 'factory' if i do say so myself. And sounds great. You can see the general idea of it in this pic. I would like the stainless header to go with it but the shotblasted and heatproof painted header will do for now
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  #37  
Old 3 Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
the two tubes that go into the cylinder fit in the "Y" on the main tube and locks with springs... it looks awesome and is stainless steel...
it's the devil one, you can find it at KEDO - Performance Products for about 139 euros...

here the link
KEDO - Product Details
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  #38  
Old 4 Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by cyberzar View Post
it's the devil one, you can find it at KEDO - Performance Products for about 139 euros...

here the link
KEDO - Product Details


YOU FOUND IT!!! I owe you a drink! ;P I'm gonna buy that one... ohhh yeah =D
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