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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 23 Mar 2007
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removing the spark plug!!! HELP!

On my 96 XT400

PLEASE!!!!! I really need to remove the spark plug, but i have NO IDEA, I first tried with my hand, NEIN!

Then i bought a 14mm deep Socket, but obviously it wasn't deep enough, it just falls into the hole, and i can't connect the wrench onto it, and secondly i don't know if it's actually sitting om the spark plug,

I saw a sparkplug toolkit in the hardware store, but this was a 16mm socket...

should i get a 14mm or a 16mm!!!

How do i do this, that sparkplug is in the daftest spot ever, bloody hell!!!! Right under the frame!!!

WHAT CAN I DO TO REMOVE THIS FRIGGIN SPARK PLUG, without actually taking a jigsaw to the frame!!!!

thanks!
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  #2  
Old 23 Mar 2007
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Dear narkotik666;

In the other thread you have not mentioned that your XT is not an 600, but 400. 14mm wrench is for 3AJ motors (check the number plate on yours).

I have no experience with XTs other than 600 but I know that the smaller sizes like 350, 400, and 500 are harder to remove the spark plug.

Keep your patience and accept that even small issues like removing a SP may turn out to be a real pain if you do not have proper tools.

Some wrenches like in the picture may be of help. There must also be some extensions to make you reach the spark plug.


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  #3  
Old 23 Mar 2007
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Your saviour

I do not recall the size. I suggest you take following steps:
1. Buy a new sparkplug, see another post for specification, the new one should have the correct size
2. Buy a tool called 'pijpsleutel' in Dutch (since you are from SA, you'll understand Dutch / Afrikaans), basically a pipe with the correct size nut - outline pressed onto it on both sizes.
3. Drop the tool into the whole. use screwdriver to turn it the first the turns, then by hand.
4. While doing the above, repeat for yoruself: 'I like motorcycling, I like motorcycling'.

Good luck!
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Old 26 Mar 2007
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ahhahaahhaah....

....ahhahaahah "I like motorcycling , i like motorcycling!!!!" GENIUS!!! And very true, with some "i like motorcycling, and some other profanities, i got the sp put with a 18mm deep socket, a swivel, extension, and a wrench and above mentioned profanities!!!! the thing was bent shut, opened it, got her started, gave her all the gas, and black smoke came bellowing out of the exhaust.....AND NOW SHE IS BETTER THAN BEFORE!!!!!

THANKS A MIL!!!
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Old 26 Mar 2007
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Talking I like mtrcclng

It's all between the ears!

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  #6  
Old 26 Mar 2007
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The best thing to do is to keep (or order a new) original tool kit. As useless as most of the contents are - the spark plug socket is definitely worth having.
On some bikes (Transalp and Africa Twin come to my mind) it is near impossible to get plugs out with industry standard plug sockets as you find them in many mechanics tool kits or ratchet wrench & socket sets. Even top quality tube wrenches are often too thick walled to fit.
Cheap thin walled tube wrenches are also a good alternative to the original spark plug tools as the plugs never sit too tight.

For the record:
A 10mm thread plug (like NGK CR10E in DR650SE) has a 16mm hex
A 12mm thread plug (like NGK DPR8EA9 in KLR 650) has a 18mm hex
A 14mm thread plug (like NGK B something in XT 500) has a 21mm hex
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Old 24 Apr 2007
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Thumbs up For the record

I've been down this route of "where to get the right spark plug spanner/wrench" as well: in my searches I found out more about NGK spark plugs than I ever really wanted to know, but it did ensure that I got the right size of spanner the second time around (I ended up with a 12mm "deep reach" socket for my socket set).

I now own spanners for both 10mm and 12mm plugs (+ about another 5 from earlier that, from memory, fit cars):-

This confirms lecaps information (+ the lot more that you don't really want? ):-


NGK spark plugs symbol code
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  #8  
Old 25 Apr 2007
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When you put that plug back.... Grease the threads with graphite grease. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, just take up the slack and when the washer starts to compress just turn it one more flat. ( a flat is 1/6 of a turn, on a hexagonal nut is from one 'flat' surface to the next) Doing this will ensure it will not seize in the threads. The grase will disappear quickly leaving a lubricating non corroding residue of graphite.
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Old 25 Apr 2007
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If using the tubular box type spark plug spanner, think about either welding a nut to the end or sliding an old 3/8" drive socket down the end & then welding it in place through the two opposing holes where you'd normally put the leverage bar through. Either option will allow you to use a Torque Wrench & avoid stipped threads. The welded socket is my preferred option & retains the standard length of the spanner, meaning it still fits in the original tool tray or tool roll.
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  #10  
Old 26 Apr 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Pickford View Post
If using the tubular box type spark plug spanner, think about either welding a nut to the end or sliding an old 3/8" drive socket down the end & then welding it in place through the two opposing holes where you'd normally put the leverage bar through. Either option will allow you to use a Torque Wrench & avoid stipped threads. The welded socket is my preferred option & retains the standard length of the spanner, meaning it still fits in the original tool tray or tool roll.
Note that any torque setting will be for clean dry threads, not a wise combination when you have steel plugs and aluminium cylinder heads. With the grease, reduce the torqu by at least a third. but better to do it as per my previous post.
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