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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #16  
Old 26 Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackDogZulu View Post
I would agree, with one small observation. Manufacturers these days are not free to engineer an ideal compromise between performance and economy, because of noise and emissions laws. Two bikes I have owned recently (Ducati 1000 and Yam XT660R) were both badly over-geared in stock form. This is, I understand, to pass noise regs which measure noise at a certain road speed. Gearing the bike up makes it quieter at the measured speed.

Both bikes had useless 1st gear (the Yam wouldn't plod on a trail, and on the Duke I had to feather the clutch on a tight low-speed turn) and a pointlessly-high top speed. I fitted a +1T sprocket to the gearbox on both bikes and they were transformed from a riding point of view, with a useable 1st gear and much better acceleration through the 'normal' road range. It was interesting that, in both cases, the bigger sprocket was available from the manufacturer as an accessory part.

I would argue that, by doing this, I returned the bikes to the gearing that was best for normal use, and that without the noise/emissions regs that is what the manufacturers would have given us in the first place.
Absolutely spot on with these points Richard although the XT was never affected by emissions regs as far as I know. It also underlines the value of freeing the gas flow first and experimenting with gear ratios later.
Geoff
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  #17  
Old 26 Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackDogZulu View Post
I would agree, with one small observation. Manufacturers these days are not free to engineer an ideal compromise between performance and economy, because of noise and emissions laws. Two bikes I have owned recently (Ducati 1000 and Yam XT660R) were both badly over-geared in stock form. This is, I understand, to pass noise regs which measure noise at a certain road speed. Gearing the bike up makes it quieter at the measured speed.

Both bikes had useless 1st gear (the Yam wouldn't plod on a trail, and on the Duke I had to feather the clutch on a tight low-speed turn) and a pointlessly-high top speed. I fitted a +1T sprocket to the gearbox on both bikes and they were transformed from a riding point of view, with a useable 1st gear and much better acceleration through the 'normal' road range. It was interesting that, in both cases, the bigger sprocket was available from the manufacturer as an accessory part.

I would argue that, by doing this, I returned the bikes to the gearing that was best for normal use, and that without the noise/emissions regs that is what the manufacturers would have given us in the first place.
Think you may have made a typo, gearbox sprocket needs to be smaller to reduce the ratio. Other than that I agree with your sentiments entirely.
Fortunately on modern bikes it is easy to get at and change a gearbox sprocket. Sadly not so for the pre EFI Enfields.
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  #18  
Old 27 Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
Fortunately on modern bikes it is easy to get at and change a gearbox sprocket. Sadly not so for the pre EFI Enfields.
Same with me old 1969 Trumpet - REMOVE:

Footrest
brake pedal
primary casing
clutch assembly
undo really tight nut
Clutch hub & alternator c/w primary drive chain
Catch 20 x small clutch hub rollers
remove sprocket cober & seal
undo another really tight nut
remove drive sprocket

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  #19  
Old 28 Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by Pigford View Post
Same with me old 1969 Trumpet - REMOVE:

Footrest
brake pedal
primary casing
clutch assembly
undo really tight nut
Clutch hub & alternator c/w primary drive chain
Catch 20 x small clutch hub rollers
remove sprocket cober & seal
undo another really tight nut
remove drive sprocket

At least with the Triumph you don't have to remove the inner casing of the primary drive there is an access hatch behind the clutch. On an Enfield you need four special tools, three pullers and a clutch locking tool, although it is possible to bodge the clutch locking tool. I have to say it is not a job I am looking forwards to. Still it is more mechanically efficient than the modern ones and I cant afford to waste any HP.
Incidentally, if you remove the 20 rollers, there is no need on a Triumph to remove the engine sprocket. I learned this at the side of a road in the middle of the moors in 1964. (duff batch of clutch sprockets from Qualcast).
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  #20  
Old 31 Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbmw View Post
Think you may have made a typo, gearbox sprocket needs to be smaller to reduce the ratio. Other than that I agree with your sentiments entirely.
Fortunately on modern bikes it is easy to get at and change a gearbox sprocket. Sadly not so for the pre EFI Enfields.
Oops, thanks for spotting that. Yes, I meant -1T, not +1T. From 15 to 14 in each case, IIRC.
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  #21  
Old 1 Apr 2010
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I'm thinking about dropping my gearing, -1T on the front, as I find first gear too tall for town traffic and off-road. Am I right in thinking that I actually won't change the top speed at all as my bike doesn't have the power to rev out in top gear anyway, I'll just hit a similar top speed, but at higher revs?
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  #22  
Old 1 Apr 2010
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I have an almost new (10 miles) 41T rear sprocket made by JT, if anyone is interested in trying it out.

It's great with a 16T front but too long with the standard 15T in my opinion.

£10 (inc p&p)..
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  #23  
Old 3 Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -ralph- View Post
I'm thinking about dropping my gearing, -1T on the front, as I find first gear too tall for town traffic and off-road. Am I right in thinking that I actually won't change the top speed at all as my bike doesn't have the power to rev out in top gear anyway, I'll just hit a similar top speed, but at higher revs?
Yes, pretty much. You might lose a few mph at the top, but it will be in the 80/90 mph area where it hardly matters. My 660R was geared for about 110, which is crazy for a trail/enduro bike. You gain a lot more than you lose.
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  #24  
Old 7 Apr 2010
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altering gear ratio's

hi all, my 97' xt6e is down with an electrical prob at the mo & i thought while working on it i'll do chain & sprockets as well.........been thinking 'bout altering gearing for a while as i often do a 60 mile evening trip, lack of speed on the return leg is getting me down & i dont like making the engine "scream".
parts supplier near me said try bike alert in london, their website allows you to enter your model bike & gives you recommended stock chain/sprocket settings as well as ratio's according to altering front or rear sprocket size.
mind you im still confused lol, im aiming for comfortable 80ish cruising speed, gonna start with stock 15 front, 43 rear & new 520/106 chain, & see how that is ?.
heres link to their website, although i dont think they deal direct with the public, trade only.........

www.bikealert.com: Home

JT Sprockets: Catalogue
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  #25  
Old 7 Apr 2010
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Try Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Gearing Ratio Sprocket RPM Speed Chain Calculator and/or search the forum, theres a lot of info outthere.
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