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Fork oil level? Fork oil level?
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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It's going to be a long 300km...
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  #1  
Old 13 Apr 2008
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Fork oil level?
Hi everyone.
Ive spent many hours reading this forum since I bought my XT last Sunday.
I have to do the forks on it.
It is an 87-mod, but with 89? 3aj-engine, and 95-? XT-E forks. Seems like someone have rebuilt it, using parts from 3 bikes.
I got my Clymer-manual, but it doesnt help me with the forks. They dont have drain-screws or air-nozzles? on top, so they have to be newer than 95 I think..
Now they are leaking from the bottom-screw, so I have to do something.
Does anyone know the amount of oil to fill?
Any other tips?
All help will be greatly appreciated
Osmund
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  #2  
Old 15 Apr 2008
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If the seals are fine, all you really need is some Loc-tite on the bottom screw, and maybe the little brass washer that acts as a seal (if it's missing).

If your seals are leaking and you have to replace them, just put some Loc-tite on those bottom screws when you put them back together.

I'm not sure about the oil level in your forks, however, sorry I can't be more help with that.
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  #3  
Old 15 Apr 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osmund View Post
It is an 87-mod, but with 89? 3aj-engine, and 95-? XT-E forks.
Now they are leaking from the bottom-screw, so I have to do something.
Does anyone know the amount of oil to fill?
My '94 forks have fork oil drain screws on the lower/side areas. If this is where your leak is occurring, then you can use some Loctite when you reassemble. Remove gas tank and related plastic panels; drain fork oil; pump forks to remove as much residual oil as possible; replace drain plugs using a small amount of sealer on the threads; raise the front end as much as possible (suspend from above bike, blocks under engine, etc.) so forks are extended to maximum; place cloth on top of gauges; remove handlebar clamps and place handlebars and connected cables/wires on top of cloth; take off top fork plugs (there will be some spring pressure underneath so beware); remove both springs; lower bike so forks are completely compressed; add new 10w fork oil (155mm (6.1") from top of fork tube with fork fully compressed without spring); lift front end up and let settle down several times to ensure air is pumped out; re-measure oil level; raise bike/extend forks; reassemble in reverse order.
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  #4  
Old 15 Apr 2008
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Thank you very much guys, very good info.
Only thing is I dont have the drain screw. I looked up the different year-models of forks in a online-store that had "exploded drawings", started with 86-mod. First one to match was 95-mod.
But that bottom screw, it doesn`t hold someting? I tried tightening it, but it just goes around. And it sounded like something turned with it all the way up. Is it totally messed up maby?
Ill go out and look it up one more time now, see if I can get it out.
Thanks again
Osmund
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  #5  
Old 15 Apr 2008
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Ive looked at it again.
Seems like I need a special tool with 27mm pipe to put down the fork to loosen/tighten the bolt under it.
Do you know if I need the special tool, or do a regular socket with extensions fit down there?
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  #6  
Old 15 Apr 2008
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special tool
if you search in old posts (or if you go through my previos posts) you will find this info, anyway it's easy: 60 cm threaded bar for 27 nuts, four nuts, joined at two sides two by two. You have the special tool. Or you can try with a pneumatic gun, but it's really easy to make it..
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  #7  
Old 16 Apr 2008
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Looked through your posts, Cyberzar, but I still dont fully "see" your tool.
Might figure it out when I start disassembling them.
But I follow the advice and ordered new seals n stuff.
Just $113, from Florida, delivered in Norway.. Both cheaper and faster than ordering with the local dealer. Terrible... hehe
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  #8  
Old 16 Apr 2008
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When I built my fork tool, I found a 3/4" Nylock nut that had outer dimensions of approximately 27mm, which is just over 1". I welded that nut on a piece of 1/2" square rod that I had laying around, and welded a short (8" or so) T-handle on the other end. It worked perfectly.

FWIW, the part of the fork that you're using this tool for is essentially a 12-point 27mm socket, inside the fork. So the tool is basically a long rod with a 27mm hex head, to mate up to the 12-point "socket" inside the fork. Or you could think of it as a 27mm, 12-point Allen screw, and you need a 27mm Allen wrench.

Hope that helps.
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  #9  
Old 17 Apr 2008
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Excellent!! Got it now. Just a bit slow sometimes.. hehe. Ill make that tool in no-time.. Thanks.
Just have to wait for my parts. Dont know how long it takes from Florida to me. Maby a week or so..
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  #10  
Old 19 Apr 2008
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While Im at it; do you think it would be a good idea to make some drainholes in my forks?
Just small, threaded holes near the bottom, so I can change the oil a little easier next time? Then put a screw with o-ring in it..
Or is there a reason that theres no drain?
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  #11  
Old 19 Apr 2008
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Those holes you mention would be a good idea but what about the pressure which builds up when you make a hard brake with the front wheel? will it hold?:confused1:
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  #12  
Old 19 Apr 2008
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Hmm.. you make a point... maby the tube-walls are too thin to make decent threads. The real drain-screws DO stick out 1cm or so, probably to get more threads, make it stronger..
Think Ill leave it. If I get it right, I probably dont have to do this job again in a couple of years...
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  #13  
Old 24 Jun 2008
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fork
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osmund View Post
While Im at it; do you think it would be a good idea to make some drainholes in my forks?
Just small, threaded holes near the bottom, so I can change the oil a little easier next time? Then put a screw with o-ring in it..
Or is there a reason that theres no drain?
hi
did u got the tool (special tool for forks)? THey sell it at jeco, oslo for around NOK 400.
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