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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

I haven't been everywhere...
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Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #16  
Old 6 Oct 2009
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Coppergrease
Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzag View Post
hi there if you have a nut/bolt stockest near to you see if they can match the stud up , threaded rod or studding as it is called is normally low grade steel unless you ask for high tensile studding . if you are going to go for full thread and not a stud , ask for a hex set screw and cut the hex head off. a good one will be 8.8 strenth dont get one lower than this . the next one up is 10.9 then 12.9, very strong , with stainless nuts on and coppergrease no more seizing should happen. any bike shop should be able to match the stud up if they keep them in stock, honda/suzuki/etc or just order the right ones from your local yamaha dealer . good luck zigzag
Hey people, Copper and stainless do RE-ACT!!!

Loc-tite make a Nickle based anti-seize for use with Stainless steel.

No doubt, other manufacture's will make a Nickle based anti-seize.

Cheers from Oz
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  #17  
Old 7 Oct 2009
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Thanks Chucky. I'm due to get some more anti-sieze anyway. Years ago (while in the middle of a full restoration of a Series 2 Land Rover) I bought a tin of Comma Copper Grease. Don't know how much - about the size of a pint pot! I am still only half-way through it, but it has turned to gloop. Thick discoloured grease at the bottom, and a pool of watery gloop on top.

I haven't come across the nickel-based stuff, but I will look out for it.
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  #18  
Old 7 Oct 2009
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Nickle-cote
Hi Black dog,
Just trying to get the word out on copper slip and the reactions between the various metals.
Stainless steel bolt suppliers or Engineering suppliers should have a Nickle based product or equivalent.

Happy to help.

Safe riding and cheers from Oz.

Starting to warm up down here.
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  #19  
Old 8 Oct 2009
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Whilst working in the forestry industry,we Always used a zinc based anti-seizure paste.This worked extremely well against any moisture or dirt induced problems.Can't think of a brand name at the mo but will try find out.

Andy
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  #20  
Old 8 Oct 2009
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On a related note I had similar happen. Ended up trying all methods, but had to take to a shop eventually and they drilled out and replaced the thread.

Is there any reason to keep with a stud and nut arrangement for attaching the exhaust, or could you just use a high tensile bolt - straight into the head?

just wondering, I'm sure there must be a good reason that all manufacturers use studs.
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  #21  
Old 8 Oct 2009
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Just one of many providers of this product type.
Anti-seize Compounds - Molyslip Atlantic Limited

@ apexTwin
I used to have a Suzuki SP400 that had the header retained with alan bolts, they were over long and had a nut on the shaft to retain the collar. Not pretty but it worked well enough.
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  #22  
Old 8 Oct 2009
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to quote apexTwin-
"Is there any reason to keep with a stud and nut arrangement for attaching the exhaust, or could you just use a high tensile bolt - straight into the head?"

I guess we don't wanna keep running steel bolts into aluminium threads. It won't be too long long before some thread stripping occurs......

Anyway, what I have had done with my 4PT...Head off- chiseled out remnants of header pipe sieved into alu head - mild steel stud remains drilled out - retap thread - screw in stainless M6x45mm bolts - hacksaw off the bolt 'heads'. Used stainless (or brass or copper) nuts when refitted exhaust.

Still saving up for a stainless exhaust. Why the expense compared to car exhausts?
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  #23  
Old 18 Oct 2009
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I think I may end up doing the same as you. I got the old exhaust off today - or at least the majority of it, with the help of Mr Angle Grinder. The bosses on the headers are stuck so firmly in the head they might as well be welded there. I've tried chiselling them, but I am afraid of damaging the fins etc. There isn't a lot of access there. It might be easier and safer to take the head off, and do it all on the bench.

On a brighter note, the studs came out easily, and the new ones have arrived. The headers are now on back order as M&P are out of stock.

Looks like it's back to the Honda for next week at least
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  #24  
Old 26 Oct 2009
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Hi blackdog,
I feel for you, I had the same issue a while back:

1> http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...wn-pipes-30106

Since my tenere was stolen I have a few spares here and there. PM me your address and I will post you a yamaha genuine parts header bolt.
G
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  #25  
Old 26 Oct 2009
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Thanks for that - have sent you a PM.

I have the head off and on the bench now. I have drilled a small pit into each header boss to give something for the chisel to bite into, and gone at it with all my strength and a big hammer. Nothing - it hasn't moved either header a millimetre. They've been soaked every day for a week in penetrating oil, too. Next step is to use a little heat. Having read your previous thread, I might even invest in a Dremel and cut them through from the inside if that doesn't work. They WILL come off!
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  #26  
Old 26 Oct 2009
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AN old trick to get bearings out is to weld on the ID of the outer race. When the weld cools it shrinks or contracts, and they fall out. Maybe worth a try on this? Mig or stick would probably be best.
Good Luck Steve
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  #27  
Old 26 Oct 2009
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I don't have welding kit (or know how to use it), so that's a last resort. Heat and cutting first, then the heavy mob!

Thanks.
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  #28  
Old 26 Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yhprum View Post
AN old trick to get bearings out is to weld on the ID of the outer race. When the weld cools it shrinks or contracts, and they fall out. Maybe worth a try on this? Mig or stick would probably be best.
Good Luck Steve
Great trick - but why not weld a nice big solid "handle" onto the header inners, so you can get some real leverage
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  #29  
Old 15 Nov 2009
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All sorted, I hope
In the end, I took the cylinder head to a local mechanic, as I was afraid of doing some damage. Heat, cuting slots, hammer and chisel, nothing. The guy eventually got them out with an oxy torch and a lot of swearing.

The carb rubbers fell apart when I took the carbs out, so I have renewed those too. New stainless Motad headers, new studs, lashings of copper grease, and a refinish of the heat shield just for good measure. I've run the bike for about 10 minutes just to get the exhaust paste to cure, and already the headers are turning a coppery colour. Good job I quite like it that way!
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Exhaust studs-new-exhaust-2.jpg  

Exhaust studs-new-exhaust-4.jpg  

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  #30  
Old 15 Nov 2009
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Wow.... NICE !!
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