I was wondering if anyone out there has fitted latter engines to their 1986 XT600 Tenere's.

If you have, were they a straight swap or was it a lot of mucking around.

Swapping from a kick only to electric start engine will cause you probs.
Although they fit there are clearance issues with the output shaft/sprocket and the frame in that area.
I found this out by trying to do this myself - then having it confirmed by David Lambeth (XT Guru).

Hope this helps

__________________
Tom

GSXR 1100 Streetfighter
CG 125 Cafe Racer Track Bike

Not very RTW

How about swapping a 1vj for a later engine, does that give you the same problems?

it will need translating but plenty of info here www.xt600.de xt600 xt600e Tenere Ténéré - XT 600 von Yamaha

hope that helps

if the link goes to main menu click on XT Werkstatt then click on 3TB-Motors in 1VJ einbauen

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http://www.youtube.com/user/yahyajammeh

I fitted a 1989 3AJ engine in my 1986 Ivj. Easy straight swap. All ancilliaries work with the later engine.

Interesting to know!......
Toyin' with the idea of swapping my 3AJ motor into an '82 550 chassis later this year......BIG weight difference!....oughta get right with the program!

I'm in the process of fitting the latter engine to my 85' xt600, to gain the clearance between the chain and frame i've fitted countersunk bolts to the seal plate and put a circlip on against the shoulder of the output shaft, i'm going to weld the spacer ring to the oposite side of the sprocket and machine it back a bit to allow the locking tab to fit, with it fitted like this i've got approx 10mm between the frame and chain

^pls pls pls post pictures of that! Im stuck with an XT6E engine in my early model SRX and the chain is touching the frame, thats with the sprocket wasted to move closer to the engine.

gwain, i'll try and take some pictures today, you could fit normal bolts to the seal retaining plate and file them down, with this done the sprocket was just touching the seal so i put a circlip over the spilnes and up against the shoulder on the output shaft, this allows the sprocket to clear the seal, you could fit the locking tab and nut and leave off the spacer ring but approx 5mm of the splines in the sprocket go past the splines on the output shaft, thats the reason behind welding on the spacer ring to the outer of the sprocket, have an email address i can send the pics direct

Thanks a lot for your help, that really makes my life much simpler! My email is 20550<remove this>9033@ukzn.ac.za much appreciated.

Please post them here it possible, it would be really nice.