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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #1  
Old 3 Jun 2011
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Diving fork
1:I just changed the fork oil on my 1991 xt600 k. the old oil was grey/black. i drained 1 liter. I added 540 ml to eatch fork. SAE 10 oil

i just went for a ride and there is no big change. i expected less diving during braking. i use my bike for city riding only. what can i do. in a post in the forum i read that i should fill 580 ml in each fork. what is right?

2: my front brake is a bit hard to press and doesnt operate smootly when i squuese it. is there any trics besides opening the caliper? what should i check on the main sylinder/hand leveler?
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Old 4 Jun 2011
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2: i have changed the brade fluids without any changes...
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Old 4 Jun 2011
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Perhaps you must change the springs too.
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Old 4 Jun 2011
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On the XT, unless you change the springs or put some spacers inside of it or even, the complete front forks from another off-road bike the suspension is always going to feel spongy....

You can always get new progressive springs, that will surely help alot!


Vando
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  #5  
Old 4 Jun 2011
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I´ve put progressive springs and SAE 15 oil (180 mm. to the top of the bottle/bar elonged and with the springs in) in my 90 XT forks and it looks like another.
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Old 5 Jun 2011
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Hello Bikereurope,

It kind of depends on what you are used to for performance and budget.

I had the progressive springs and steel braided lines on stock components for the longest time. It was an improvement.

But..... Riding modern bikes had spoiled me a bit so I sourced a complete front end from a Suzuki DRZ (wheel/brakes/forks w. heavy springs) and made it all fit.

Big improvement.

If you are looking for big gains in Braking/suspension performance swapping parts is the answer. If you are happy with a mild improvement, work with what you have.

Is you're brake disk true? Is the rubber hose original?

You describe the brakes as being hard to press/not smooth. By this do you mean, lacking feeling(wooden) in application? Or lacking power? or both?

Good luck,

Pawlie
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Old 5 Jun 2011
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the power is there in the brakes, but they lack feeling as you say. they might be a bit wooden if i understand you right. they might be a bit difficult to portion, they are only some power or full power.

they are all original.

i have ordered a o ring set for the caliper, and understand that i should change to braided brake lines.

what about the main cylinder/the hand brake leveler. is there a special type i should get. or a place i should order from (cheap?). i have checked ebay but the cheapest type there didnt have the adustment for freeplay on the leveler.
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  #8  
Old 5 Jun 2011
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any experiences with this set?

YAMAHA XT 600 FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER REPAIR SET | eBay
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Old 5 Jun 2011
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Loss of feeling in brakes ~woodenness~ is often caused by old pads. Put in a new set of pads to restore the original feeling.
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Old 5 Jun 2011
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For onroad use, just use some spaccers to put on the springs int he forks. It will stiffen up the suspension.
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Old 5 Jun 2011
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Bikereurope,

My xt had the single piston caliper. I believe yours (later model) has a dual piston set up so your results may vary.

Checking the piston operation, changing seals,fluid , piston and pads as needed are great( and inexpensive) places to start. After many years,I think replacing the hose with a fresh one will help.

I gained quite a bit of power by sorting out the above on my 1986 bike. The wooden feeling did not go away until the braking system was modernized.

All the best,

Pawlie
Last edited by Pawlie; 5 Jun 2011 at 21:39. Reason: spelling
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Old 6 Jun 2011
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Spring spacers as said and then a common trick is putting in heavier oil. Say SAE 15 will increase damping effects but not necessarily slow compression dive. The two should really be done in tandem for best effect. Some people go the whole hog and start closing off the diameter of the damping rod holes but that is for experts and not DIY recommended.

SAE 10 does seem a bit thin for road use even though it may be manufacturers recommendation. It all depends on your riding style and terrain tbh.
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Old 7 Jun 2011
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I had similar brake problems on my 86 bike. No real feel to them, and really had to squeeze hard to get it to stop. After a full service kit, both caliper and master cylinder, plus a new ( second hand) braided hose, there was a bit of an improvement, but its still not quite how I would like it. Marginally less wooden, and with a bit of an increase in stopping power. No 2 finger braking for me.To be fair, they do work, and if you give them a proper squeeze they stop the bike OK. I'd prefer a nicer feel, and will try some new pads soon to see if it helps. Considering the amount of fork dive, I'm not sure I'd want them too much better.

Which brings me to my question. People have mentioned fitting spacers above the fork springs to firm up the front suspension. What sort of thickness would people recommend? Obviously too thick and the caps wont go back on without a fight. Can any one advise? I'm too mean to buy progressive springs without trying this first. I only ride this bike on the road - got a KTM for the mucky stuff.
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Old 7 Jun 2011
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i have now ordered a repair kit for the main cylinder. the one that i linked to above. i have altso ordered a set of steel braided brake lines from HEL. I have a set of new brake pads laying home, but the ones on the bikes has many miles left on them....
is there big wariations on the brakepads? i would easely prefer a "sticky" pad that brakes well over one that brakes bad, but lasts longer
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Old 7 Jun 2011
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i just got a cancel note on my order of the brake lines. the company didnt do international orders. can anyone link me a cheap site for the brakelines? i cant find anyone with 1991 models.
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