The Achievable Dream 5-part series - the definitive guide on DVD for planning your motorcycle adventure. Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
Gear Up! is a 2-DVD set, 6 hours! Which bike is right for me? How do I prepare the bike? What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers! "This DVD will save you a fortune!"See the trailer here!
So you've done it - got inspired, planned your trip, packed your stuff and you're on the road! This section is about staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure. And crossing borders, war zones or oceans!
On the Road! is 5.5 hours of the tips and advice you need to cross borders, break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Tire Changing!Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
"It has me all fired up to go out on my own adventure!" See the trailer here!
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I am having my girlfriends 1991 xt600E engine overhauled after 80 000 miles of use, and want to overhaul the carb's too.
I have stripped and cleaned them, and have noticed that if I push the slide up on the larger, CV carb, it stays up, instead of coming back down !
I have cleaned and lightly oiled (with WD40) the slide and the carb body where the slide fits but still it stays up. I have examined the diaphram and it has no holes, but it might be stiffer than expected.
(I have also discovered that if I block the slot above the main air passage and suck or blow on a hose coming from the top of the diaphram chamber, I can make the slide rise and fall.)
Any thoughts on the sticking slide anyone?
Also, I am planning on changing the float valve. Is there anything else I should change after so many miles?
I can't see a step in either of the needles to suggest that they are worn.
What is the method to change the needle valves, how easy is it to do?
I dont know about your float valve mods etc, but I was taught by a mechanic years ago, when working on carbs where the slide floats up and down with pressure etc, to polish the bore which the slide floats up and down in, with brasso so that it is nice and smooth and also the edge of the slide itself. keep polishing it so that it is nice and shiny and smooth and it usually works. -
Hope it helps - greg
How was the carb working before you took it apart? If you can find a shop that has a exhaust gas analizer, it would be worth a quick check to see how it is running especialy at idle. This will tell you if the needle and nozzel are worn because it will show up as a rich condition at idle. The needle and nozzle on most bikes are sold as a set. Change them by tapping (lightly) down on the nozzel so it comes out thru the float bowl. My experience has been that lube on the vacum slide will cause sticking a short while later on. I polish them with a scotch brite nylon pad (we use them for scrubing dishes) if you push the slide up with a finger lightly it should fall down on it's own. Really check the diaphram on the slide for any cracks or tears, they can be patched for a few thousand km with plastic and glue or buy new ones for big money. Remember repair work is 90% patience and 10% special knowledge and tools.
1. Overhaul: the only thing to be done on XT6 carbs is, indeed, to change the needle valve: seat and needle itself. Remember to leave out the little gauze filter on top of the seat, and install an inline filter in the hose from tank to carb.
2. Sticking 2nd stage slide: are you sure the spring is still in there? If not, that's your first step.
A better test for the slide function is as follows: just hold a (switched on) vacuum cleaner nozzle to the exit side of the 2nd stage. Open throttle valve, slide should go up. After removing or switching off the vac cleaner slide should return to closed position.
If not, there is dirt somewhere or the sliding surfaces might be worn rough. This last I have never seen though.
- Make sure all the O-rings etc are in place and in good condition. If not, replace with original Yamaha O-rings.
- I have never seen worn needles on these carbs
- Changing needles is pretty easy, although getting out and reinstalling 1st stage needle is a bit tricky.
- When removing needles and re-installing, make sure to put back the rings, little clips and springs in the correct locations.
- No lubrication required on the carb.
If the diaphram is twisted or jammed in the top cover it will cause the slide to stick. They can be tricky to assemble, somtimes it helps to install the cover loosely and work the slide up and down before tighting the cover.
I have had a diaphram(on a yamaha 350) degrade and get stiff to the point it would not be pulled up on acceleration. The diaphram looked fine but replacing it fixed the bad running at anything over one half throttle. How does your slide move when everything is apart? It should slide easily in and out of the carb. something else is to put everything together and leave the carb to air filter boot off. start the bike and see if the slide is moving some. No it will not run properly and may even try to spit in your eye but it is interesting to see what is happening.
I found my old Tenere carb's to compare and it's slide closed correctly
I then removed the slide to try and judge if the diaphram rubber was any less stiff, it didn't appear any different.
I did notice though that the spring that closes the slide was free to fall out on the Tenere slide, and was held captive on the 600E one. It had wound itself about 3 turns below the plate that holds the needle in the slide. I returned it to sitting on top of this plate, polished the slide and carb body as suggested and it is now behaving. Horay!
There was some ware evident in these carbs, the non stick coating on the primary slide is scuffed and worn through at the bottom edge. I will try re-using it anyway, the return spring is strong.
Also, there are some scratches / ware marks on both needles and the pilot mixture needle tip shows some erosion.
The 600E has a large breather hose from the diaphragm chamber that has a wire mesh filter in a plastic housing in it’s end. This has let sand into the carb! The Tenere does not have this breather.
Has anyone tried re-locating this breather into the air box?
As the secondary carb works on pressure difference above and below the diaphragm. If you relocate to airbox, downstream of the filter, there's a different pressure on the hose than would be with the original setup.
Better to install a piece of foam, just like air filter foam, in the housing of the mesh.
I thought that the idea behind having a large air box was to have a resovoir of still air at normal atmospheric pressure. Does it's pressure change with throttle position then?
Anyway, a piece of oiled foam is a good, simple idea.(or possibly a K & N crank case filter in place of the original wire mesh filter )
My final question is about the synchroising of the carbs.
I have a Clymer for the earlier bikes, and it states that the prmary carb slide should be raised 5mm when the secondry slide butterfly lever is just contacted.
Does this apply to the later bikes?
When these carb's came off the bike (1991 XT600E) the slide had to be raised 9mm, measured using a drill bit shaft, to get to the point where the roller on the pri carb' just contacts the arm of the secondry carb.
If I adjust it to 5mm, when the throttle is held wide open the butterfly valve goes beyond horizonal by quite a bit!
The air filter itself is a resistance. If there is air flow, and there is when the engine runs, the pressure in the airbox will drop (slightly).
Larger air boxes are chosen because the engine creates a pulsating flow. Larger volumes cause lower pressure drops when the same amount of air is removed form it, thus providing more air to the engine.
But, remember, in order to push the air through the filter, you need a pressure drop. As the atmosferic pressure is a given, the pressure donwstream of the filter must drop to get the air through the filter.
Not excatly a bolt on swap. There were a few mods to be made. I'm sure that I'f you have the corect carb on your bike that you could make them work just fine. I did not have that option with mine. I got the bike and had lots of trouble with the old carb set. SO installed the Raptor set. Like I said a few mods were made. Nothing a person with a little skill couldn't handle.
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