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about to change sprockets and chain about to change sprockets and chain
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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #46  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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Wouldn't it be stronger if that spacer was actually welded on to the sprocket?

Vando
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  #47  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bergspre View Post
Found a 577 14tooth at a local store,hope its not a big diff from the 15tooth, i wasnt able to follow the speed limit in 5th gear anyway so i guess its good.. maybe have to remove a link from the chain maybe?

Bergspre, please be kind enough to inform how you like the new 14T sprocket when you have tried it. If the chain rubs heavily on the swing-arm protectors exc…



I am not a fan of the standard gearing, for me it is too high even on-road (4th to low 5th to high normal cruising speed). Lower gearing would obviously be a lot better off-road.


A 4-6T bigger rear sprocket will not fit with the standard chain slide in place. I have adapted the rear wheel from my KTM to fit my TT600RE and had to get a smaller rear spocket (48T) before it would fit.
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  #48  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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the fact it has a spacer and not a solid build up theroreticaly makes no differance. The sprocket is held tight to the spacer and shaft axialy along the drive shaft and in the correct radial loading position in line with the rear sprocket.

there a 2 main reasons the sprockets are tight, firstly is to ensure it doesn't fall off, and secondly to prevent any non radial forces causing damage to the splines (A wobbly sprocket will cause premature wear to all conecting parts, including internals.) this then ensures that most of the torque is directly transfered to the rear sprocket.

If this problem is stopping you from traveling, i don't see a problem with getting a local machine shop to knock up a space to sit behind the sprocket, it doesnt need to be splined as basicaly its only for positioning purposes.

feel free to pull me apart on this, but i've overcome similar problems to this the same way on a lot larger machines (500MW steam turbines)

Paul
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  #49  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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It worked on my 3hp moped 8 years ago
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  #50  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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Ill report on the 14teeth soon.
I now have cleaned the area around the front sprocket,rear frame, the rubber thing that the chain glides on and the 2 chain rollers. (they were all very dirty by some kind of living oil-entity,it was tough to get clean )

Now ive put the front sprocket on and the nut loosely, now the only thing remaining almost is the chain.. Well i have the chain and the rivet link and the jumbo tool, but wheres the instructions for the jumbo tool that im sure i had outside 2 days ago hmm

I have the general idea of how to use the jumbo riveting but im not sure how its supposed to look in the end, its a hollow type link i think, is the idea that these get pushed outward by the jumbo tools plate and then the chain plate cant get loose? Anyone have the instructions for the jumbo tool in pdf?
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  #51  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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Found the instructions but I think its very confusing. I dont have the instruction for the chain, how many millimeters to put the plate in on the end of the link etc.. then how do i know if ive pressed the pins out enough?
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  #52  
Old 13 Jul 2009
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the side plate should be pressed on the same as the other links and as long as the pins are spread out wider than the holes in the plate it aint going anywhere
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  #53  
Old 14 Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacardi23 View Post
Wouldn't it be stronger if that spacer was actually welded on to the sprocket?

Vando

maybe ? Just glad bikebandit sent it or I would've been very confused. So far no issues.
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  #54  
Old 14 Jul 2009
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It would be stronger because it would deliver the power on a bigger surface area thus reducing the amount of torque applied on the total area of the sprocket/axle
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  #55  
Old 14 Jul 2009
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Sprocket and chain project is now finished with good results

No more humping from the bad chain and instead a much more silent sound, sounds sweet as a humming bird flying along..

Going for a bit longer ride now to test Ill report on the cruise speed/feeling later when ive tested.
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  #56  
Old 14 Jul 2009
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Not sure how to describe this but, feels like less acceleration capacity for 0-80 but reacts faster and better for slow riding in the dirt or woods.

I would have used the 15teeth if I had one,but only because I like to cruise. Noticed the difference on 5th gear when cruising at 80 KM/H and at 90 where I like to stay often the rpm was 4500 i think which is too high. With the old 15T I remember just under 4000rpm was 90KM, and now 3900rpm is 80.

So my verdict is, 14t is good but i dont like the rpm when cruising at 90-100, I like to use the torque on low rpm that this engine has

Btw got an email from wemoto they admitted they sent the wrong type - 1577 instead of 577, they ordered it from theyr dealer and are sending me the 15Twhen they get it with a return slip for the other one so i can send it back.
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  #57  
Old 26 Jul 2009
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I started to like the 14T now Cant go faster then 80 anyway.

And yesterday I received the free replacement 15T from wemoto (JT 577.15 (doesn't need a spacer) )
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  #58  
Old 26 Jul 2009
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Ive startet with 15-45 (stock)

Then I got 14-45, and next 14-47 which was good offroad, but kinda sucked on the highway.

Went back with 14-45 but still wanted to lover the rpms a tad, and finished with 15-47.

The second gear is a little high when riding singletrack, but then i have the option to put in the 14t sprocket. Dont know if I'll use it tho'.

I dont ride it over 100km/t which is around 4300 rpm. I try to take cake of the baby, with no sustained high rpm driving.

I've used Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Gearing Ratio Sprocket RPM Speed Chain Calculator which is a great site. I've added the 1990 xt 600 in there, and the gearing fits from 1990 and forward, dont know if it wits before that.

If you've got a workmanual where the ration on each gear is mentioned, you also can add a bike in there.

Great little tool.
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  #59  
Old 27 Jul 2009
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Just changed the chain and sprox on the XT600E. Bloody hell, what a difference! The strange shushing sound (about one-third wheel speed, so chain-related) has gone, gear changing is a delight, and it rides much more smoothly.

I expected to find a chain full of tight spots (although I couldn't find any when investigating the noise) but the chain was fine. Stretched beyond the service limit, but still in good nick and flexible. Rear sprocket was almost unworn. But the front sprocket - all the teeth badly hooked and in a shocking state.

Just for the record, I stuck with standard 15/45 gearing, as I am happy with that. The front sprocket nut took a 600mm breaker bar and a grandchild standing on the brake pedal, but was otherwise OK to get off. The front sprocket itself came off without any drama. The chain has a spring link, which I have not had on a bike since my Jawa days of the 70s, but I assume is OK. At least it meant I could do the job without taking off the swinging arm as well.
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  #60  
Old 29 Jul 2009
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I use the clip links for the chain on both my bikes
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