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- - 3AJ vs 1VJ (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/yamaha-tech/3aj-vs-1vj-5777)

I recently replaced my 1VJ ('88) tenere with a 3AJ (89 - 91), and noticed some basic differences between the 2 bikes; i have the clymer manual for the XT600 up until 1989, which is generally very good, but it does not cover the 3AJ's deviations from the 1VJ. any advice would be much appreciated...

*** front sprocket attachment to secondary/countershaft ***
on the 1VJ, this is secured by 2 small bolts (10mm), through a retaining clip. on the 3AJ, there appears to be one much larger (30mm?) bolt. i have tentatively tried to remove this bolt, but it appears to be very tightly bolted on, and when i have tried to turn it in neutral i end up just turning the sprocket and the back wheel; i am not sure if i should engage a gear before i try and turn it - will this damage the gears?

*** fuel tank ***
the 1VJ has a 23L tank, secured at the rear as well as on either side of the front section of the frame. the 3AJ is also secured at the rear, but the front appears to be different - it appears as though there are 2 hand-turnable bolts on the inside front of the tank. i have tried to turn these, but they appear quite tight - is there a technique to turn these?

*** kick starter ***
my 1VJ had a kick and an electrical starter, but the 3AJ only has an electrical start. i notice that there is a fitting where i could attach a kick starter, but before i attempt this, i would like to know the magnitude of this task, and also the effects (if any) on the performance of the bike.

*** exhaust pipe ***
i got my 3AJ with an ARROW exhaust, which i have had to replace with a BSA exhaust for the purposes of MOT/roadworthy. i am considering whether i should put the ARROW exhaust back on the bike, but i am not sure, as in my experience early teneres generally run best with genuine parts and not after market accessories. does anyone have any comments on this?

any advice would be much appreciated.

thanks
cabron

Quote:

Originally posted by cabron:
I recently replaced my 1VJ ('88) tenere with a 3AJ (89 - 91), and noticed some basic differences between the 2 bikes; i have the clymer manual for the XT600 up until 1989, which is generally very good, but it does not cover the 3AJ's deviations from the 1VJ. any advice would be much appreciated...

Good choice - I looked at lots of XTs before buying the one I have now (a 3AJ mk1). Just so you know, I'm not that technical, but I have successfully dismantled my bike and put it together again... http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif

*** front sprocket attachment to secondary/countershaft ***
on the 1VJ, this is secured by 2 small bolts (10mm), through a retaining clip. on the 3AJ, there appears to be one much larger (30mm?) bolt. i have tentatively tried to remove this bolt, but it appears to be very tightly bolted on, and when i have tried to turn it in neutral i end up just turning the sprocket and the back wheel; i am not sure if i should engage a gear before i try and turn it - will this damage the gears?

I haven't changed this myself, but I have been told that the large bolt is an improvement over the locking clip setup of earlier bikes. I believe there is a washer with a tooth that fits into a slot on the shaft - check w/ someone else (DL?)

*** fuel tank ***
the 1VJ has a 23L tank, secured at the rear as well as on either side of the front section of the frame. the 3AJ is also secured at the rear, but the front appears to be different - it appears as though there are 2 hand-turnable bolts on the inside front of the tank. i have tried to turn these, but they appear quite tight - is there a technique to turn these?

I took the tank off mine the other week (to rust-proof and inspect the underside and check the wiring condition), and was really impressed by how easy it was. You must make sure that all the grommets are in place on the rear mounting - it is the only one. On the 3AJ the front attachments are merely supports - they do turn, but easiest w/o the tank on. Best to make sure they both touch the tank, and that the rubber boots (here and on the side mounts) aren't too damaged.

While the fairing is off, check the fairing attachment bridges - use of long bolts can tear pin-holes in you tank, and people often retap the threads (mine had ROOFING bolts fitted!!)

Also check the lower front edges of the tank. If the rubber pads are missing, the lower fairing vibrates and rubs the tank. Long term this is bad news. You can glue sections of inner-tube where they can't be seen, to stop this from happening.

*** kick starter ***
my 1VJ had a kick and an electrical starter, but the 3AJ only has an electrical start. i notice that there is a fitting where i could attach a kick starter, but before i attempt this, i would like to know the magnitude of this task, and also the effects (if any) on the performance of the bike.

Both of the Geoffs on here (GeoffE and Van der Merwe) are doing / have done this modification, and Klaus knows lots and has a German instruction site. Be warned that the ratios aren't designed for the kicker, and so I think there's a "technique". Not the easiest starter in the world.

I want to know why people make this modification. I would only do it if I was *removing* the electric boot. If you cannot start the bike, it is either 1)fuelling 2)electrical 3)mechanical:

1)Nothing to do with the starter - check fuel, carbs etc. Kick = no difference.
2)No power to starter. ASSUMING you still get spark, why not bumpstart? In 3rd gear I have started my 3AJ on mud - don't tell me it can't be done! Also I will use a sealed battery with high cranking power (Hawker). This means - especially with riding in the day - I will never have a flat battery.
3)Mechanical (THE BIG ONE). If part of your starter breaks, like the sprag gear or the starte clutch, what good will a kicker do? Sure, you can start the bike, but the parts from the broken starter *will* destroy your engine in a few kms. If the elec start is broken you shouldn't run the bike - end of story. Also note that starters generally fail through wear; they get worse for weeks and then stop working. This has happened to me with a Pegaso and an F650 (similar setup), so I know.
I will get my starter assembly serviced before I leave, and enjoy pressing the button w/ no worries - an retrofitted kicker seems like more complexity added to a system that works pretty well.

*** exhaust pipe ***
i got my 3AJ with an ARROW exhaust, which i have had to replace with a BSA exhaust for the purposes of MOT/roadworthy. i am considering whether i should put the ARROW exhaust back on the bike, but i am not sure, as in my experience early teneres generally run best with genuine parts and not after market accessories. does anyone have any comments on this?

I changed the OEM silencer on my bike the Arrow-PD item, as the original had a large hole in it. My fuel consumption went up slightly (now about 19.5kpl) but the bike runs LOTS better, esp. in the range 2-5k rpm. It also sounds nicer, and I think is safer in traffic - a good blip of the throttle often stops people from stepping out in front of me! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif I like the new pipe - it is gasketless, and easier to fit/remove than the original. It is also more robust, fits closer to the side of the bike (for luggage) and gives more clearance for the rear wheel - no collector box.

I will refit my original pipe - repaired - to the bike on the morning of the MOT, and remove it the same evening. Loud pipes aren't dangerous, and I have been pulled over since fitting mine. I was worried that they would see the "not for road use", but they were far more worried about my knobblies being road legal and all my lights working...

any advice would be much appreciated.

thanks
cabron

Hope I have helped my friend. E-mail me and we can meet up at some point. I think there are now 4 3AJ's in London - any more out there? We should go green-laning one time!

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif Enjoy your bike - in my opinion a good upgrade from a lowly 1VJ http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif

In reply to POB about the kickstart thing - The reason to fit a kickstart to a 3AJ is in case your cheapo battery conks out in Algeria! After hassling my friends for a push in the (every)morning, I ended up returning with a Land-Cruiser battery on the pillion seat! All my own fault, of course, I had intended to put a new battery on before departure.....And the moral of the story is....be less stupid than me http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif
Neil

Yep, same as Neil wrt kickstarter
I've had to bumpstart my bike once or twice...and that was on a nice flat tarmacced road.
I don't want to have the problem in the desert.

OK OK - the issue with the kickstart is a matter of taste, but I would rather take a spare battery (wich I can use for electricity in camp) than add complexity to the engine http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/wink.gif

Re: the final drive sprocket, have a look on the following page, with special reference to parts 22-28. Should help you out (although some very very small alterations can be seen between this bike (the 3TB?) and the 3AJ, most notably the fuel tank...

Perfect for what you need now though:

http://216.37.204.202/Yamaha_OEM/Yam...pe=13&A=20&B=9

[This message has been edited by POB/London (edited 22 January 2003).]

front sprocket attachment:
to unlock the nut, engage the rear brake and use a long tube to extend the wrench. a second person is useful.
to tight the nut, use a torque wrench and apply 110 Nm. don't forget the safty washer.
if you don't apply the right torque there is the potential danger that you may loose the nut while riding. if then in consequence the sprocket leaves the shaft it may end up in a serious accident in the worst case.
before mounting the nut on the shaft, apply a thin layer of copper grease on the thread. this makes unlocking a bit easier.
for long journeys i would advice to have a spare nut and washer in the tool box.

regards
klaus

wow, thanks guys for the replies! i am priviledged to have so much info.

reason i asked about the kick starter is because i recently finished a big trip (london - cape town) on my 1VJ (which now rests on a nice comfy pallette in storage in cape town), and the major problem i had on the trip was starting the bike. when i set off, i used my electrical start exclusively, but after a couple of accidents in ethiopia my electrics were not quite what they were supposed to be, and anyone who has travelled through deepest darkest will know that replacement parts are not an option unless you carry them all yourself. so in the end i used my kick start exclusively, hence i am very happy to have both options available. also, it is one thing push starting a bike on tar unladen, quite another in the middle of sudan fully laden.

i am most happy about my new 3AJ, it seems a good step up on my old 1VJ! only thing i don't like are the non-magnesium (gold) rims, but i will learn to live with it http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif