xt600e camchain/cog re-fitting?

[carwyn]

Hi, new to this site and hope someone out there can help me with this,

Hereth lies the problem:

I took the head off for a look (it was a bit down in power?) and I had to take off the camshaft, camshaft wheel etc. but when trying to put it back together the manual (Iv'e only got a online TT one,,,engine the same apparently) only shows how to align everything starting with the crankshaft and crankcase markings , which are behind a flywheel and the cover I have not had to take off!

Stay with me on this...

How can I get the cam chain in the correct position on the cog etc without stripping down parts of my xt I do not need to ? Any ideas?

Also I bought an xt cause I thought it'll be safer to have a slow enduro bike ..says he sat here with a broken rib after losing it green laning!!

Any advice much appreciated,

Cheers,

Carwyn

[Walkabout]

Originally Posted by carwyn

Hi, new to this site and hope someone out there can help me with this,

Hereth lies the problem:

I took the head off for a look (it was a bit down in power?) and I had to take off the camshaft, camshaft wheel etc. but when trying to put it back together the manual (Iv'e only got a online TT one,,,engine the same apparently) only shows how to align everything starting with the crankshaft and crankcase markings , which are behind a flywheel and the cover I have not had to take off!

Stay with me on this...

How can I get the cam chain in the correct position on the cog etc without stripping down parts of my xt I do not need to ? Any ideas?

Also I bought an xt cause I thought it'll be safer to have a slow enduro bike ..says he sat here with a broken rib after losing it green laning!!

Any advice much appreciated,

Cheers,

Carwyn

The manuals are written assuming that you are stripping the engine down completely, so you need to read between the lines: basically put it back together so that it is the same as it was when you started. Align the timing by looking at the timing marks that are on the flywheel behind the small cover, while ensuring that the engine is at TDC (with all valves closed) and set the driven cog with it's alignment marks in line with the cyl head. Yea, I know it sounds easy. I did something similar with a TTR (seems years ago) and it went like I just described. Don't do as I did and let the timing chain come off the lower, driving cog - that is a bitch to put back on! Keep it tight against that cog all the time that it is not connected to the upper, driven cog.
If you look back in my posts you will find loads of description about what went right and what went wrong - all for the TTR.

Go for it - really easy, once you get the hang of it!

Cheers,

[carwyn]

Cheers dave... spot on advice It's now back running like it should

Carwyn

[mech5107]

Did you find something wrong in the head?

I would say that, if you haven't already, you should check the valve lash, after some riding and be sure that it's as stated to the manual.

[carwyn]

Found nothing wrong in the head (couldnt get the barrel off due to a deeply buried bolt being rounded off and no way of accessing it!-not rounded by me!)

Re fitted it all, checked valve clearence all ok and after a carb clean out seems a little more responsive BUT still lacking something

The rear 39 spocket may not be helping and also coming from a full power v max might hinder my expectations.

It start fine , revs cleanly right up to my red rev light (thought it should have a tacho on a 1990 xt e?)

Any ideas how to quicken up the pull away speed of an xt apprieciated,

Cheers

Carwyn.

[mech5107]

Put a bigger rear sprocket or a 14 teeth front.

If you like to mesh again with the engine itself, go for a better cam (260 degrees and 9mm lift), with the proper jetting it will flight.

Don't be scared from the big duration. If setup is right it will be fine.
I use a 282 cam and idles like stock and has plenty of torque from the low-revs.