I had much the same on my 600 single (not a Yam but similar technology) last year. Bike started fine at home and I rode a couple of miles to get some fuel. Trying to restart at the pump gave exactly the same symptoms you describe. I tried all of the tests that everyone here suggested but ended up having to push it home. New battery fixed it.

(Bump start the bike.... If it starts, then it's most likely your starter relay (solonoid). )

The bike is a runner, it's the electric start that is the focus.
A poor battery won't fully energize the solenoid so you'll get a click or buzz without a full connection to the starter motor.
The solenoid has already been bypassed by a direct bridge with no improvement.
If, with a good battery, the problem persists then examine other components in the system.
Dave.

Hmmm. Well fingers crossed I didn't hold the spanner on for too long :eek3: that sucker was sparking a lot. At work today, will fit batt tomorrow and update. Thanks again guys. Really appreciate it.

Damn, doesn't sound like fun. I'm really hoping a batt fixes mine.

I,ve just ordered an overhaul kit for my 1vj started motor...40 kiwi dollars from america...i ll let you know if its any good......starter absolutley shit itself and the new kit comes with bearings seals and brushes....

Just to point out here.. Solenoid and starter relay are two completely different things!

Solenoid A.K.A Starter Solenoid is the roundish piece with a metal casing.
Starter relay is similar looking as the black flasher relay but has 4 prongs (two rows x two columns).

The most "complex" situation is the dead battery could be caused by a bad alternator (A,K.A) Stator, which kills the regulator/rectifier which then causes the battery to boil and die thus causing your starting symptoms.

Now, First things first you have to do is get a Multimeter, one with sound continuity test is most suitable!

Things to test:

#1-On the engine's left handside, behind the left seat side cover comes there is a plug with three white cables.
Disconnect the plug, set the multimeter on the continuity test and test continuity between all three cables. cable 1 and 2, 1 and 3, 2 and 3. the order doesn't matter, you just have to check all of them. There has to be continuity between all three cables and there CAN NOT BE continuity to ground!

3-phase Alternator Stator Charging System testing with a DVOM meter on a motorcycle Road King - YouTube


#2- On the same left side of the bike, with the left seat side cover off, you have the airbox!

If you look closely, there is an electric plastic part attached to the airbox with a rubber band, that is the starter relay! Very similar to this one:
http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/...rter_Relay.jpg

To check it you have to set the Multimeter to continuity test!
There are 4 prongs! (some people call them pins)


This time the order of the testing probes IS IMPORTANT!

Test the all the prongs, put the Red testing probe on one prong and check all other three prongs with the black testing probe. Choose another prong and repeat! do it to all of them!

Now, REVERSE, put the black testing probe on one prong and check all the other three prongs with the red testing probe.. Choose another prong and repeat! do it to all of them!


On the Multimeter display, you should see a voltage drop of around 0.5volts. Three prongs should show a voltage drop while one of them should not!
I don't remember which way the testing probes should show the voltage drop, maybe someone else could fill in on this part.


#3-When the new battery you bought arrives, fit it to the bike and start it!
Get the multimeter, set it to DC 20volts and check how much voltage is going to your battery. Place the red testing probe on the battery positive and the black testing probe on the battery negative!
Let the engine warm up for a minute or two,
Give it a couple of throttles a few times, and check the multimeter display! It should show a voltage of ~13.4 to ~14.7 volts.
Assuming the Alternator (stator) is good, A voltage any lower or any higher than this, means that your regulator/rectifier is damaged and needs to be replaced or it will kill your new battery in no time flat!



One good thing you can and should do is check the battery cables and where they connect to!
Specially the Black ground thick cable that attaches to one of the bolts that holds the e-start motor on top of the engine!
Remove that bolt, it should be full of crap, clean it or replace it or just change it with the other bolt that holds the e-start motor.

Lastly, before that trip you are planning, regrease the wheel bearings, put fresh grease on the lubricating nipples on the swingarm and rear shock! Check your brake pads and properly inflate your tires..


One last thing, good luck and be safe on the trip!



Vando :cool4:

Thanks so much Vando. That's an incredible amount of info to post. I'll have to try and absorb all of that in the morning.

If it makes a difference, the past owner of the bike barely used it for 5 years, from looking at MOTs he literally did like 1-200 miles some years. So not sure if that has any affect. I'm not sure when this battery was last replaced though.

Cheers!

Just get a set of jump leads and a healthy battery....

It's really all you need to see what's up here :thumbup1:

Cheers Ted. Only other motorbike in the garage is an RM125. Don't even know if that has a batt. haha.

New batt should be arriving today so we'll give it a go.

Hey guys...

SO, your diagnosis was correct.

Dropped in new battery and the bugger started first time! Followed by a massive ear to ear grin by myself. haha.

Checked it with multimetre while it was running and was over the 14 mark.

I guess this was actually pretty lucky for me, perfect timing for the batt to die and I got a wee crash course in the process. I now know what a solenoid is. haha.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Great news mate.
Glad you got it sorted!
Dave.

Congrats! I know that feeling, hehe... :innocent: