1VJ engine in 34L/55W
 

I've been reading through many of the old posts but just wanted someone to succinctly advise me on this thorny question.

I'm having problems with my right knee and even though I haven't got to the engine refurb yet I'm pretty sure I'm going to have a painful problem kick starting my bike.

I see that the 1VJ should bolt straight in, but can someone give me a check list of what else I would need. I have a brand new loom on the bike so was wondering if the electrics that take care of the electric start part patch in to this loom or is it a 1VJ complete loom that I need?

Will my 34L carbs be ok? I presume that I would need a bigger battery too?

Has anyone successfully carried out this swap?

All answers greatly appreciated.

Regards

Andy

Norwich, Norfolk, UK

sorry to post in such an old thread but im wondering exactly the same thing, if anyon could spare any info ?
cheers,
josh

Jeez this is an old thread, i doubt Andy even comes on here anymore?

General consensus is, find a 4PT motor if you can & fit that.

The Ténéré Forum • View topic - 34L Engine rebuild in Oz - Cost?

Mezo.

I'm not sure if the 3AJ is compared to the 3tb as far as counter shaft location since we didn't get them. I just did a 3TB into a 43F. As far as the electrics you'll need a bigger battery which won't fit unless you do some remodeling of the battery box or get a Lith-ion or such battery, but those have their own issues. Ignition switch, a right hand switch for the start button, starter relay and harness , the 3AJ main harness is also needed for the extra starter/button wires. Not real hard to do as long as you have a complete setup to start with. The cdi may be different and may need to be moved, not sure on that though

Oil lines may need to be modded depending how the 3AJ ran them.

If the sprocket is offset like the 3TB motor then you need to find a way to move it over a little(8mm) to have it line up with the rear sprocket. I moved the whole motor over approx. 4 mm by shimming one side and moving the other side engine mounts. then put 1/8" spacers behind the rear sprocket to get it even closer.

For an ignition switch I used a Yamaha Viper switch, it has the start option on it just like a car, twist to start then release, no button needed, I really, really like it.