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**AliBaba** · #16 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Ron

Welcome!
Finally, don't read too much into the bike bashing that goes on here, it's a waste of energy and really doesn't help you.

I agree! Listen to people that have used the bikes for tasks like your own, not to the ones that have read something somewhere.

As other has said there is no immortal bike. The idea of buying an oldish bike and prepare it yourself is good!

Another important question is where do you want to go? What type of roads? Will you carry much luggage? What petrol-range do you need? How many km do you want to ride?

**ivandebruyn** · #17 8 Sep 2008

Thanks everybody i v made a deciscion it going to be a 1989' Xt600 on wich i will place 3 trunks bags tenere tank the full load to live on the road for min 3 months iv anybody got good tips for this bike what are its weak points please share it with me

have a save ride everybody

**chris gale** · #18 8 Sep 2008

Hmmmmmm - dont see any road bikes in these lists ? Before you laugh Nick Saunders and this dutch guy whose name i cant remember both used R1 s and they went off road

there is also an australian guy who used a Fireblade !! If you aint going off road big time why use a trail bike :confused1:
Ok they may be a bit more tech but i defy anyone to say a gs IS MORE RELIABLE

And to hammer home the point my mates Fazer 1000 has just hit 83000 miles used every day and has never had a problem

Just a thought - bound to be plenty of replies to this one i bet

Im not ignoring you cos im off to Turkey on my Blackbird - and they are certainly more reliable than a Gs .

**uk_vette** · #19 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivandebruyn

Thanks everybody i v made a deciscion it going to be a 1989' Xt600 on wich i will place 3 trunks bags tenere tank the full load to live on the road for min 3 months iv anybody got good tips for this bike what are its weak points please share it with me

have a save ride everybody

.
.
.
Yam Xt,
Good choice.
Both big enough, and small enough.

Enjoy

**Warthog** · #20 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog

I could not agree more regards BMW, but be careful here ....

You will awake the lurking BMW Mind Gestapo and be accused of spreading "Village gossip" and being a BMW "Basher"!

..... and even called a Liar! So I guess we are both Liars then ..... Sure, lots of traveler have done fine on BMW's but lots have had problems ..... especially the oil head models. BMW does have lots of DIE HARD fans who zealously defend it .... no matter the negatives. That's fine, as long as the whole truth is known, then pick any fricken bike you want.

I loved the comment: "big heavy Touratech-on-GS catalogues’ on the road" and "Fashion Victims" comment too.

So true. Here in the USA very few GS guys ever leave the country or go off road. Nice looking bikes though with enough seriously overpriced Tourtech add ons to put a down payment on a house.

Unbelievable....

I would have thought that you, of all people would see that to get this topic off the ground again would be a bad idea, Patrick.... And yet I can see it starting all over again. Pigeon-holing from the off....

Firstly, the initial topic has been resolved as this poster seems to have opted for an XT600e, so, as far as I'm concerned I think this new line of discussion is off topic.

Secondly, baiting others with terms like "BMW Mind Gestapo" is really not on.

You will also remember that I did not care for some other remarks that you made in a now-infamous thread, as I thought them in bad taste and irrelevant.

Do we really want to resurrect this again? Gypsyrider is entitled to his opinions as is anyone, and he has owned said bike but, please, please, please lets not go down this road again...

For anyone who really feels the need to know the whole story, read it here,

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...s-f650gs-37094

rather than having it re-hashed in a whole new thread....

**AussieNat** · #21 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivandebruyn

i have decided on a yamaha Xt600 from 86' for one its cheap and according to owners it should keep on riding with basic spare parts .The plan is to drive from Belgium to Germany ,Czech republic ,Poland ,Lithuania ,Latvia ,Estland ,Russia Stpeterburg to Vladivostok and with boat to Japan\

I did a similar trip (but going the other way, Japan to Barcelona) in 2002 on a Suzuki Djebel 250. The bike was fantastic, so sad I sold it. I traveled with a guy riding an 80s XT 600 for a bit, while a very good bike I was able to comfortably travel alongside. I was travelling much lighter though, this is the most important in my opinion. You dont need a super offroad machine to do any of your planned routes.
There is (or was) a tough section between Khavarovsk and Chita in Siberia but because the Djebel was light, it was better suited to deal with the conditions. I dont think I could have done it with a heavier bike. Apparently that section has been fully paved now so there is no problems at all.
Japanese aircooled singles are the only way to go, Im convinced. But as said it comes down to what you are comfortable with riding and what makes you smile.
My girlfriend and I are doing a RTW now 2-up on a postie bike. I chose this bike because its the most comfiest bike Ive ever ridden and because it makes me and everyone who see's her, smile. Super reliable because I love her so, I take good care of her...(the bike!)
Feel free to PM me if you have questions.
Faster-Than-Walking
N

**tmotten** · #22 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr. Ron

Welcome!
The fact that you want to travel the world on a bike but expect it never to break down worries me. May i sugest you choose your bike now and start preparing it for travel. You see, it doesn't mater if you get the BMW, Kawasaki, Honda or whatever, they ALL BREAK! They all need their short comings remedied and you need to create an intimate relationship with the machine which will become your most important possession in the entire world.
I work as a BMW mechanic part time and have built a few travel bikes. Having owned a 1200 GS, i would not recomend this bike for world travel, for reasons that were stated earlier. On the other hand, an older airhead, like the R80G/S or even the R100 GS, with the proper preperation has proven to be an excellent choice, along with the KLR's, DR's, XR's and XT's, but remember, ALL these bikes need to be studied, scrutinized and prepared for travel before you can proceed. There is only one simple answer to your question, buy a bike that makes you comfortable and puts a smile on your face, research it's shortcomings and prepare it for travel. Make sure you build a proper toolkit and try to get informational CD's on your model. Prepare your luggage and make sure the sub-frame is up to the task, otherwise re enforce it. Low horse power air cooled motors are usually an excellent choice. No bike has a real advantage for parts availability so consider using cleanable air and oil filters. Try to stick to the more common tire sizes, like 21" front and 17"-18" rear, the oil head BMW's have a big disadvantage in this area. Never under estimate the importance of a good skid plate! Make sure your charging system is ready for all the accesories you plan on bolting on, like lights, GPS, heated grips (i recommend them) and heated jacket. Trust me on the heated jacket, you won't regret it

If you buy a chain drive, carry lots of master links and only use a good chain like DID. Toss the alloy sprockets and replace them with steel or stainless steel if you can. Learn how to lubricate it properly, there's lots of opinion there! If you choose a shaft drive, make sure you get a greasable drive shaft and learn how to maintain it. I have around 100k km on mine now,. but i love to work on my bike

Prepare your suspension! Most bikes come with junk non-rebuildable shocks, except for KTM's WP. Ohlins has a good reputation, along with Wilburs, which is my favorite. Wrap your shock spring with a Shock sock to keep out dirt, this is the #1 killer of seals. I like to also cut a piece or rubber from a tire tube and drape it over the shock using a hose clamp to attach it. Protect your front forks with Gaitors to protect them from rocks and such. Consider your bike will be heavily loaded with stuff, adjust or replace your forksprings accordingly.
As reliable as the Japanese bikes are, their handle bars and brake lines are for the most part junk. Pro taper or Magura and stainless lines are a good investment, along with aluminum insert hand guards to protect your fingers and handles.
Do some research on your brake pads and rotors, they will cross reference with other makes of bikes making it easier to get them in foreign countries. I met a guy who thought he could only get brakes for his BMW from the dealer! Spoke wheels are superior to cast and usually repairable. I love the tubeless spoke rims from Behr of Akront used on the BMW GS's, very strong and reliable along with the ease of tubeless repair using a plug. Regardless, you must carry a tube in the event if a side wall puncture which is sometimes unrepairable. Purchase an air-pump, i like the Slime pump. Cheap and good! Practice repairing your tires, you'll need it down the road!
Finally, don't read too much into the bike bashing that goes on here, it's a waste of energy and really doesn't help you. One bike is as bad as another if neither are properly prepared for travel.
Enjoy!
BTW, i really like that new 660 Tenere, it just might be my next one. I'm looking forward to some good reviews in the future.

Thanks for that Mr Ron. That's probably the best and most accurate reality check. Maybe Grant should stick this in the prepping section or something. Can't add anything to that other than maybe

+1

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivandebruyn

Thanks everybody i v made a deciscion it going to be a 1989' Xt600 on wich i will place 3 trunks bags tenere tank the full load to live on the road for min 3 months iv anybody got good tips for this bike what are its weak points please share it with me

have a save ride everybody

Good choice ivandebruyn. We rode from Dublin to Vladivostok on an 88 XT. It think the 89 is still a 3AJ version. My experience was that it definately needs a suspension upgrade. Build a steel arc shaped bracket over the read brake calliper. The exhaust can touch/hit it when your shock bottoms out. We broke 3 and had them all get send out leaving us without a rear brake for over a thousand kilometers. They crack just above the rear pivot point. The fairing is also very wide making is fragile for cracking when you come off. Maybe also look at replacing the front indicators with flush car ones. We had a lot of worn and broken thread all over the place, so maybe get the ones used on regular services retapped of helicoiled. Definately check the oil everyday.

These are ours in Mongolia. Sold them when we got back in Oz. They didn't like the salty coastal air much.

**AliBaba** · #23 8 Sep 2008

I still don't understand how people can recomend bikes when they have no idea what the bike will be used for.

**MotoEdde** · #24 8 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by AliBaba

I still don't understand how people can recomend bikes when they have no idea what the bike will be used for.

Sometimes it's to help validate their choice or way of going about it...

The initial poster hasn't given enough information...hell, if I'd posted the same query on here before I took my trip...I guarantee you the k75 would not have made the long list...but I digress.

**farqhuar** · #25 9 Sep 2008

Ivan, I've just done Korea to Italy (via Russia/Kazakhstan/Scandinavia) on a Burgman 650 maxiscooter, and you know what?

If I do it again I'll be doing it on the same bike.

The Burgie handled the Khabarovsk to Chita section fine and had minimal problems with the offroading in Kazakhstan. I travelled 30,000km on the Burgman (and another 8,000km in China on a locally produced 125cc road bike). The total amount of offroad riding was around 3,000km or less than 8% of the total journey.

Why compromise 92% of the journey by doing it on an offroad bike that is slow, uncomfortable and offers little weather protection?

The Burgman handled the offroad with aplomb and yet was smooth, exceedingly comfortable, nimble (you can't beat them round bends) and economical (4-4.5l/100km) onroad. Add to the mix the CVT on the Burgman ,which made for a much more relaxing shift free ride, and you're laughing.

See my blog Across the universe for details.

Garry from Oz.

**AliBaba** · #26 9 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by mollydog

Looks like plenty of information to me. What do you think?
What else do you need to know?

Cheers,

Well, for a start I have visited the first countries he mentions (Belgium to Germany ,Czech republic ,Poland ,Lithuania ,Latvia ,Estland ,Russia) but sadly I don’t know about the road conditions to Vladivostok. If this road is good and he would like to follow the main roads in the other countries a street-bike might be an option.

But if the road is more like this for a few thousands km a streetbike is probably not right.

I know that petrol in Russia can lead to problems with certain bikes but I don’t know if you have to go 200 kms or 1000 kms between fuelstops.
Will he travel light or not…

IMHO the old XT is one of the best bikes out there, and with the right preparation it should work nice.

Gestapo greetings
AliBaba

**Warthog** · #27 9 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by AliBaba

Well, for a start I have visited the first countries he mentions (Belgium to Germany ,Czech republic ,Poland ,Lithuania ,Latvia ,Estland ,Russia) but sadly I don’t know about the road conditions to Vladivostok. If this road is good and he would like to follow the main roads in the other countries a street-bike might be an option.

But if the road is more like this for a few thousands km a streetbike is probably not right.

I know that petrol in Russia can lead to problems with certain bikes but I don’t know if you have to go 200 kms or 1000 kms between fuelstops.
Will he travel light or not…

IMHO the old XT is one of the best bikes out there, and with the right preparation it should work nice.

Gestapo greetings
AliBaba

Woohoo!! Cool picture!!

That is what I hope my Ural will be doing in a couple of year's time!! All that is missing is our dog in the chair!!

(Must admit that petrol range is my biggest concern for the Ural, though, and there is only so much fuel you can carry...)

**usl** · #28 9 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivandebruyn

Im looking to buy a bike for my 2010 worldtrip Since my lack off mechanical skills i need a bike wich never brakes down i know that every bike is good and at the best bike there could brake something bust still wat should i buy
the 1200gs or the 660tenere or an old xt600 or DR400 or what can you advise for me

1200 GS .... good in Europe where there is lots of mechanics who can deal with all that electronic stuff . Definetly is very strong, very hard to brake but very hard, close to impossible, to fix any problem since its very electronic itself ...

I would go for a bike which is full mechanical .. dont worry too much for your mechanical skills . You will learn on the way (which i think how everybody learned....hard way)

I would go for a bike with a supplier who ships parts worldwide ...

I would go for a 2 cylinder bike ...

**Threewheelbonnie** · #29 9 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warthog

Woohoo!! Cool picture!!

(Must admit that petrol range is my biggest concern for the Ural, though, and there is only so much fuel you can carry...)

Really? I've had five ten litre cans in the Ural chair I've got bolted on (not even the dog as passenger though, just travelling stuff). The Triumph will use the petrol in about 500 miles (road) or 400 if pushed (stopping a lot, roads like that one) and the ten of water hopefully means I won't die of thirst (and can save the Jamesons for on a night!). Without the cans inside I get about 300 miles range. Not enough for Russia? I wouldn't have thought the Bonneville was that much more efficient?

Which brings me to the idea of BMW bashing. I had a Ural with which I had a love-hate relationship. I hated the fact it mostly ran on one cylinder and made a horrible noise with it's gearbox and loved everything else to the point where I put the Ural chair on the Triumph. This I can fix as it only rarely has issues which mostly get fixed by swapping electrical bits. How i'd love a Ural made by Honda and sold at Triumph prices

The point to me then with bike choice is what are you most comfortable with? I'm good with electrics but hate carbs. I have no issues with getting a blink code out of an ECU but wouldn't know a gearbox fork from a fish knife or soup spoon. To me you need to research the bikes that'll do what you need when running and find out what stops them. Then you need to learn the fixes.

Technology is a matter of knowledge. Anyone out there know how to use a theodolite to find their position? A few old boys will think you are nuts for chancing your navigation to an electronic set up. Our kids will laugh at us explaining now we used to set the mixture by doing plugs chops and listening for pinking. We'll wonder what happens when the 2049 XT can't talk to Yamaha central for it's hourly update and reset for the last lot of fuel.

I think the first reply says it all, go ride is the main way, but you also need to get other peoples REAL experiences. I think the myth of BMWs infalibility is as false as some of the repeated tales of over complexity. Personally I'd go for an XT, Bonneville or Bullet, but that's only because I know these in detail. If someone ran a mechanics course on Urals I'd get one. It's what YOU know that counts when you are out there. You can't buy reliability IMHO and the people who do huge trips on C90's, Harleys, Guzzis, Cagiva Elefants etc. just prove it.

Andy

**Threewheelbonnie** · #30 9 Sep 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by usl

close to impossible, to fix any problem since its very electronic itself ...

...

I used to work for WABCO, we made ECU's for truck and trailer brake systems. The number of actual electronic failures was less than 1% of all problems we saw. The rest of the issues were a mixture of "suicides" (mostly involving welding or jump starting) and plain mis-diagnosis. The most common problem? Water in the wiring. If they'd plugged the "old" ECU back in the same day as the new one it would have worked. I used to love the calls that started "I've switched 3 ECU's and none of them work", the answer is "then it's not the ECU". The fact people are scared of the black box means all logic goes out of the window.

The problem on the road is finding the problem. In a workshop it's easy, just plug in and the vehicle tells you. Would you go on a big trip without a multi meter? Then why have an R1200GS a thousand miles from the nearest service tool? You can do field repairs (and the big tip; assume it's NEVER the electronic), but the skills are very different from finding a problem with an older style system.

The conclusion is the same of course.

Andy

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