Greetings both and thank you for your comments. I did this route without dropping the bike in 2004 but since then there has been volcanic eruptions, road works and my aforementioned bad back. Did ruta 40 or at least the bad bid, on the way down and it hasn't improved at all, if anything, the truck/bus traffic has increased but I do get lonely on the dark moonless nights and splitting the cost of an expensive careterra hostel room is much preferable to my little tent. Anyway, Paine National park manana then the boat through the Patagonian islands on Tuesday to Puerto Montt and the start of the CA. Even if the wind and rain continue, life doesn't get much better. Ride safe.
Mike is riding the twisty road in the sky