I rode from Bogota to Ibarra Ecuador October 2,3,4. As I was leaving Bogota, I saw a lonely cop on the side of the road so I stopped and talked to him. I told him where I was going and asked him to recommend the best route to get there, and he came through in spades. Head south from Bogota through Giradot to Espinal, then turn right up to Ibague and Quindio. This takes you up a valley system with twisty roads, small towns, coffee plantations all over the hills and some fantastic views (and smells of roasted coffee). You climb up to about 10,000 feet then descend on the other side. I overnighted in Armenia (Hotel Zatama, $20, underground parking, internet). The road from there joins up with the Pana after about 50 kms, and from there it is mostly 4-lane divided to Popayan, you can
really make time. The highway bypasses Cali, and I didn´t go in. South of Popayan, you enter canyon country that rivals or betters the Copper Canyon in Mexico. I overnighted the second night just north of Pasto in a resort area known as Arizona, Hotel Oasis, swimming pool, no Internet, $10. Another note about Columbia, there are tolls on the highways, but they are free for bikes. Look for a narrow lane on the far right and drive straight through. More beautiful scenery south of Pasto, and you climb very high getting to Ipiales, over 11,000 feet. Be prepared to add clothes. No tramitadores at the Ecuador border but lots of money changers. The usual routine, visit Columbia migracion to cancel your visa, then go to Aduana to cancel your moto importation. All I had to do was hand in the papers done at the Bogata airport. The guy that did my importation into Ecuador had little patience when I asked him to repeat something. He´d bury his head in his hands, sigh, and shake his head. It was an academy performance I would have paid for, I did my best to stop from laughing.