yet more shocking
The general consensus seems to be that the 60 series (like the 40s) and OME are very, very well matched. I ran a set on a heavily laden Defender expedition/rainforest 4 wheeling vehicle and had nothing but praise for OME. I am aware they are re-branded Monroes or whatever with different valving but they do tend to work. Like anything there are a few failures which of course get a lot of attention as the overland community exchanges so much info over the web IMHO. Toyota's OEM shocks (Tokico) are also however very good. In almost 14 years of beating up Toyotas in West Africa I have only ever blown one - on a heavily laden 75 being thrashed at the time. IIRC the Old Man Emu and Tokico are both gas charged while the Konis are not. Arguably a twin tube 'normal' oil shock can take stone dents etc better than a mono tube shock. But I wouldn't get worried about that really. For what you describe I would go with the emus or OE - yes the Koni Raids are pricey, but wait until you put them up against Bilstein/Fox or King dampers which are in another league altogether. The one advantage of high priced shocks is that they can be re-built, but to be honest when I once had high end shocks on a road car re-built it cost as much as a cheap normal shock, so you are unlikely to really see any saving there, and as you say you don't want to spend anything you don't have to... And you are unlikely to find a re-building place while overlanding!
When your shocks are taking a real beating and start to fade (i.e. lose their damping ability due to extreme heat buildup) you should back off or stop - otherwise they will fail. At the end of the day a busted shock is not huge issue, I would go OME and stick an old front and rear in a side panel or tied well to a chassis rail.
As I said the matching - be it vehicle or springs is very important. As you are going OME springs I wouldn't hesitate to go the same route with the shocks.
The worst shocks I have come across are the fronts on D22 Nissans - they look like they belong on a VW Polo, and being torsion bar IFS they work HARD - and last about three months here. Of course that is totally irrelevant to a 60 series :-) Any shock that you are fitting must be matched to the travel of your suspension - shock absorbers do not like being used as bump stops or spring travel limiters... Another reason to go with matched OME dampers and springs!