Land Cruiser V Rav 4 V Hilux
 

Hi All,

I've seen alot about Land Cruisers, also about Hilux's as overlanders, however I don't see much on Rav 4's.

In the UK, you seem to get a lot more for your money out of a Rav 4.

Any comments or information? I've chosen it has to be a toyota, but I need to choose past that. I like the Rav 4, just worried if I'm missing something by lack of popularity?

Rav 4s are a little like Freelanders, they are very basic 4x4s.

Whilst they are fine for pottering around on tarmac, very few people use them for much more than that, which is why there is very little after market kit like upgraded suspension available for them. A quick scan of the Old Man Emu catalogue doesn't list either.

Your best bet is to aim for a Hilux of Four Runner.

Well, you've set your mind on Toyota, but you remind me of a thread of mine from earlier this year; http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-x-trail-61322
For interest, if you look particularly at post number 12 in there you can see what can be done with a Nissan X Trail.
I mention this because you don't say what you want to do with your vehicle but that thread does give an idea of what can be done with that type of vehicle = the lifestyle 4x4s (bearing in mind that most of the world is now covered in bitumen).

Julian is right; the RaV means "Recreational Vehicle" and I had one back in the mid-90s when they were first produced. I only ever used it as a road-going largish estate car (I had the long wheel base version) which, I thought, had useful 4x4 capability for when the roads are covered in snow and ice - but they come fitted with road tyres, so that all depends on how you drive anyway.
They are in permanent 4 wheel drive, of course, with no diff lock etc etc.
As Julian says, they are basic therefore.

It really depends on where you're going. I've rarely seen RAV 4's in Africa. You'll find them in some cities to be sure, but nothing like the Landcruiser, Hilux, and Hilux Surf/4Runner.

If you're looking for a reliable vehicle with solid parts availability, than you won't go wrong with either the Landcruiser or Hilux Surf/4Runner. Which ever vehicle you do purchase, if you live in the UK, be sure to swing by Julian Voeckler's place and have him take a look at it. He'll save you a world of trouble and make sure your vehicle is prepped to last.

Good luck!:thumbup1:

Going for a toyota, either a hilux surf or landcruiser.

Diesel also, do I want the 2.4 or 3.0?

Is the automatic ok?

Will visit Julian Voecklers place for sure!

Thanks

I think the 3.0 litre if you can find one

Without doubt Julian is probably 'the' most knowledgable Land Cruiser mechanic this side of Australia or RSA.

Kicking myself fo selling it :-(
 

I have had quite a few 4WD's and have been going bush since childhood.

Toyota is IMHO the benchmark. Having built a HJ75 series Tray Back Ute (100mm shorter chasis then the HZJ for better entry and exits) Stating with a chasis and a tub, it turned out to be the most reliable, economical and all round beastie I have ever owned. 10 years witout an issue and was capable of 1350 K's without filling up.

Fitted was a 61 Series 12HT Factory Turbo Diesel Engine.
Aux fuel tank. 75Lt. Water tank, with pump.
Thomas PTO winch with 50m of 10m cable.
AC, CD, CB, Worklight and Spotties. Super springs, Quality gas shocks, Non flip Shackles and 33 inch tyres.

Build time was about 3 months, cost was around 10K at the time and wouldnt be all that much more now if you had the time to swap out or source parts.

Failing that just buy a 61 Series Sahara Wagon with the 12HT in it.

Bullet proof donks.

Hope this helps,

Cheers Dave

Thats abit of a beast. I like

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER FACELIFT COLORADO GXTD SILVER 8 SEATER | eBay

How about the above?

IMHO,
Keep away from Plastic new age wana be 4X4's.

Be ready to travel to find the right car. Have someone who knows look at the car before you buy. The least amount of electric accessories the less will go wrong. Find one with a factory or fitted winch, bullbar and spotties. Buy from an owner not a dealer if possible.

I'd be looking at, a car that is proven and will stand up to some punishment, the 61 series Turbo Diesel and the 80 series Turbo Diesel are awesome 4X4's. Simply add 33 inch tyres and go ;-)

Auto is not my choice although there are plenty out there and I have not heard of any issues with the boxes. Mind you it will depend on what you tow and they are not quite as fuel efficient.

One thing with all of the Toyota diesels is the oil must be changed every 5000 Kilometres or so without fail, easy to do albeit expensive at 9 litres or so.

The 2 models or variations to look at are;

1990 Toyota Landcruiser Sahara HJ61RG

http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/1990-toyota-landcruiser-hj61rg-104305?R=104305&Silo=Spec&Vertical=Car&Ridx=52&eap i=2

1992 Toyota Landcruiser Sahara HDJ80R

http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research/used/details/1992-toyota-landcruiser-hdj80r-104657?R=104657&Silo=Spec&Vertical=Car&Ridx=45&eap i=2

Start searching and good luck,

Cheers Dave

Unfortunately, that is easier said than done in both the UK and Europe in general; nowadays they are all moving toward the plastic cars while you guys have a much bigger choice of the desirable vehicles it seems to me - when such a desirable vehicle does come up for sale it has such a rarity value that the asking price is very high - that is not necessarily a "no no" for some folks if they want to own a rare one, have the readies to hand and get in quick before it is sold.
Dare I say that it is much easier to find an old Land Rover nowadays with no electronic gismos than other makes here in the UK - OK, I'll get my coat right now!!
:offtopic:

G'day Dave,

True enough but............. going over 40 mph might be an issue !

On a serious note, I did a bit of a search and found 80 Series turbo diesel landcruisers far cheaper in the UK than they are here with far less miles too boot !

nothing wrong with the LC 95 as an overland vehicle avoid the d4-d and get an earlier one, an awful lot easier to find than a decent 80

Good day also.
Hmmmmmm, I'm on marshy ground with almost anything to do with 4 wheels compared with motorcycles.
What would greatly assist me - maybe Cysne also -is if you guys could say a bit more about how the LC range varies in the models and what is most desirable to have, and what is not. I don't mean the after-market stuff to be added to the base vehicle, but I see the LC specified in advertisements with air suspension (for instance). To mention the LR one more time, my background with them goes back to the days of leaf springs and heavily overloaded vehicles painted NATO green.

Similar to my comment above, but with respect to engines.
In contrast to Cysne's find on ebay it is also possible to find this 1988 vehicle which is being broken with just 90K miles showing on the clock.
Toyota Land Cruiser 1988 breaking | eBay
ps Just to clarify, I don't believe the 90K on the clock either!
I'm just interested in what life can be expected of the various engines which in general seem to go well over 150K miles for the diesels and similarly for the big petrol engines.

Also, is the "95" series the one that is marketed in the UK as "Prado/Colorado" i.e. with a 3 litre diesel engine??

The 90 or 95 was sold as Prado or Colorado, the 95 is the LWB version like in the eBay link above. IIRC the 90 is the 3 door version.

Newer ones have the D4-D more electrics and better mpg than the simpler earlier version. Colorado's in the uk came with a locking rear diff whereasthe prado only has a lsd.

I'm not that clued up on the other cruisers ans slightly biased having a Colorado.

The 80 series is better in many respects but the LC95 is a very capable overlander and big enough to sleep in the back

Or this one?
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...78-troop-67773

And is this asking price better than can be found in Australia?

Thanks for that over view.
It confuses me, but names are easier to remember than numbers, if only because the names tend to be used in "for sale" advertising.
(but motorcycle models have a similar issue).

I understand cars & bikes are very much a personal choice. I've seen all manner of vehicles in some very rough and extremely remote country, most all were having a ball.

IMHO the 61 series Landcruiser with the 12HT Turbo Diesel engine has one if not the best 6 cylinder turbo diesel engine ever built. It is not uncommon to hear these motors doing a million kilometers. Google 12HT and see for yourself. Ok it may well not be the easiest beastie to find however well worth the effort.

The 80 series turbo diesel is also a well proven vehicle and well worth the effort of finding a good one. I might add at this point, a popular modification over here is free wheeling hubs, constant 4WD chews tyres and adds to fuel consumption. Again IMHO well worth the effort.

Troopcarriers are for me access resrticted not having rear side doors and top heavy when fitted with with a roof rack and loaded. Again it's a personal choice simple as that. A quick search reveald the 80 Series Landcruiser (link below) which would easily be double the price in Oz. Provided the car is in good nick it's very well priced indeed comparied to the price of the Troopy, it's every bit as capable more powerful and comfortable too boot.

toyota landcruiser amazon 4.2 td 5 speed manual R reg 80 series in Auchterarder, Perth and Kinross | Used Toyota for sale | Gumtree.com

I'm guessing you're begining to think crikey this Ozi is a bit one eyed with the Landcruisers and you may well be right. However what we know is what we know ;-) All said and done longevity and reliabality is paramount, the last thing we need is mechanical issues, the time and expense while on tour, hence my humble opinion.

Hope this helps guys,

Cheers Dave

Hmm,

Toyota Landcruiser 3.0 D-4D LC3 5dr Diesel Sw 2004

Why is this so cheap?

Tinted glass and 22" alloys High mileage for a UK car.

because it's a con, if it was anything else 1000's of dealers would be all over this to make a few £K

Here's an idea !
 

Come to Oz, grab this, go bush then take it home with you !

Toyota 4x4 Turbo Diesel Landcruiser Wagon | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Palmerston Area - Woodroffe

I'm not convinced that the Toys cost more in Aus, based on the current exchange rate.
Pound Australian Dollar forecast | Sterling to Australian Dollar GBP AUD Currency Updates | Currency News UK

But it's a long way to go to take delivery of a vehicle :innocent:

True it is a long way although there is the adventure aspect and plenty of landcruisers (beaches, warm weather, cold beer) to choose from like the one previously sent. I have noticed the HJ61 Series are hard to find in the UK. Having one imported from Japan would be a good option as there seems to be quite a few dealers doing this, landed MOT'd the lot. A good 80 series turbo here in Oz goes for around 20k most of what I have seen in the UK is around 5k cheaper.

Bought a Hilux Surf On ebay while alittle bit drunk... Lets see how it is when I pick it up.

Yes, presumably some models of Japanese vehicles are not imported into the UK because they are not popular and, therefore, would not sell as easily (or for the "right" price) compared with other vehicles - basically, if you were to ship, say, a container load of vehicles then you would bring in those which will make the biggest return. I say this while trying to put myself in the shoes of a dealer - a professional who is in business to make a living and not as an enthusiast for any particular make or model of vehicle.
Certainly, there is a good amount of dealers in the UK who make a business of importing LHD Japanese cars into LHD Britain - in their advertising it is always a selling point that such vehicles are sourced from a "road salt" free country!

:D
Always a danger!!
I guess we have all done it, at least once.

Japanese cars are RHD.


The beauty of importing a car from Japan is you will find youself driving something unique, collectable, usable, reliable and if you make the right choice a vehicle with good resale value. The cars are mostly well looked after, unabused, often fully optioned and with low K's / miles.

Quite right, just as for you guys; I meant "LHD" as in driving on the left of the road, but it didn't come out too well.
Maybe I should have a bit more to drink :innocent:

That second bit is straight out of the adverts that the UK importers of Jap cars use in their advertisements (+ they haven't had salt thrown all over the underside each and every winter, as occurs here).

Went to go collect the car, my god it was a shed.

Walked away after a test drive.

The driver floorwell was flooded.
It overheated after about 20 mins of test drive, smoke into the cabin.
The Cooling system had air in it, so I guess the head was gone.
That's all I found before walking away, as it wasn't as advertised.

Jesus.

We live and learn ! Revise the previous posts ! Try again !

That's a true pain, especially if you travelled some distance for the Surf ; I've bought and sold a few motorcycles via ebay (but never anything with more than two wheels) and it has always gone OK.

You did the right thing to walk away and hopefully you will get your cash back, either from the seller (with good faith) or via the ebay system on the grounds that the item description was not accurate.
No doubt the interior flooding would be caused by the recent deluge here in the UK, but that is no excuse on the part of the seller; similarly, s/he must have been aware of any over heating issues.
It's just as well that you took the vehicle for a decent length of test drive, but selling via ebay, many vendors would try to say that it was "sold as seen" and you should have inspected the vehicle before the end of the auction (or before the classified advert finished).

I'm not sure what you mean by "air in the cooling system" - I've never had a cylinder head gasket fail but I understand that it causes mixing of the coolant and the oil which is easy to see via the radiator cap; I'm just curious what symptoms you saw?

Better fortune with the next purchase!!

Indeed... I just wish I could find some decent trucks around here, maybe spring will make it easier.

I lost my deposit, but better then spending the full amount and having to worry about it fixing it. The guy used the sold as seen argument, but he stated it only had 2 owners, him and the previous owner, however it had 4 on the logbook, a clear breach of advertising. Really I could take him to small claims court to retrieve my money, but not worth it.

Well, the Engine cut out when stationary, wouldn't restart, then clouds of black smoke when it finnaly did, parked it, when it was stationary could hear gurggling / gushing in the cooling system, a sign of air in there, a lot of gurgling. Steam was entering the cabin from the engine bay and steam / smoke everywere, could smell the burning.

Anyway mainly is the sound of the air in the coolant system, either a airlock or a failing head. Also the oil filler cap had a white mayo like substance in it.

Sealed the deal really. Serves me right expecting it to be ok for £900!

Was only 5 hours driving wasted today.

Better luck this time !
 

Use your time well !

Read up on what owners say about the 61 series Landcruiser with the 12HT turbo and the 80 Series Turbo diesel both models and I kidd you not are AWESOME 4X4's.

Call a few of the UK importers and just see what they say, a phone call and a bit of time on the net checking what people say about a particular importer is easy as, link to a list provided below.

UK Imported vehicles websites

Merry Xmas Dave.

2nd that ... buy a JAP import 60 - Instead I brought a Auzzie HJ75 Troopie, then spent 2 years getting it on the road in Belgium... Fantastic car / camper has a pop top... only speed is a downside, I crusier at 100 kph and she does 10 ltrs / 100 kms...

I am more of a LR man than toyota , but from experience in Australia , the hilux size vehicles below 2.8l are a pit short on power especially in sand ,
There is no shortage of cruisers to choose from in UK , for overland travel better wioth manual box than auto, although the auto box in l/crsr were not a weakness with the vehicle , but not the best for towing as they tended to hunt between gears when climbing hills . The 4.2 diesel is a very good engine , any probs that the turbo Ihz had would have been sorted by now The earlier turbo engine was pretty bomb pruf but they all tend to be a bit heavy on the fuel avg 22mpg , if worked hard and fast you can get down to 12 !! . As mentioned in previous post you need to change oils regularly , and follow the Toyota service schedule . Some of the 4cyl diesels tend to crack heads if they get hot so cooling system needs to be in good order , The cruiser is a lot more comfortable for long distance travel than the hilux , due the leaf springs on the hilux. A lot of the cruiser wagons came on a very road type tyre , far better to go to a decent AT or MT . HTSH

But with Land Cruisers you really should stick to the numbers. Depending on where the car was sold, Toyota used different naming schemes for identical vehicles. Eg the moniker Prado for the light duties was not used in continental Europe. In Swizerland a unique numbering scheme existed (200, 300, 400) that related to nothing else in Europe.

And then there is more to learn, if you get the full designation of the car (like HZJ80 or VZJ95), especially the motor type. Toyota uses a mixed combination of letters and numbers to define the engine type and the body style. But all Land Cruiser designations contain the letter J. The number right of the letter J stands for the body style, the letters left of the J for the engine type. For an overwiew of the designation scheme on Toyota engines see the article on wikipedia.

A general overwiev can be found on wikipedia about the Land Cruiser and the Land Cruiser Prado.

Generally Toyota split up the Land Cruiser series into two during the 1980 into a heavy duty line (with leaf springs only until ca. 2000) and a light duty line (with coil springs). So a Land Cruiser with a 7 as the first digit of its type number might be heavy duty or light duty. These two lines later split up into independent series.

So comparing a 80 to a 90 or 95 is not fair. The 80 series is the heavy duty line with the straight 6 as Diesel, Turbodiesel or petrol and has always 4 doors.
A 90 is a short light duty with 2 doors, a 95 is a light duty with 4 doors.
The J9 like the J8 has coil leaves on both axles, but the J9 has the smaller differentials (8" compared to 9.5") and the J9 was never available with the straight 6.

If you are interested in a particular car, ask for the VIN or frame number. Go to ToyoDIY.com, enter the number or choose by the market where the vehicle has been sold originally and you find plenty of information about it. Here you find a cheat sheet for Toyota VINs.

HTH, Hans

.
More than suitable.

The posters who suggest to "Stay away from the plastic" have little idea of what is underneath.
Sure the plastic helps to keep them pretty for the road going buyers, but make no mistake, they are seriously capable for off road.

For a long trip, you want reliability, comfort, and fuel economy.

Land Cruiser of most descriptions fit the bill there.

vette

.
Hi Dave,

No point suggesting to the OP that he look for a Troopy, he is in UK.
Are you suggesting an 80 series is more comfortable than a 90/95 or a 120/125 series, dream on
Are you suggesting the 80 is economical, forget it, get real, 80 series diesels, 12 valve or 24 valve will give you mid 20 mpg at best.
The 90/95 diesels are easy into the 30 mpg.

Unless your heading to the swamps of central Africa in the rain season, then an 80 is a total overkill, with heavy fuel consumption to weigh you down.

You are right though, the OP should continue to seek out a land Cruiser.

vette

Facts.
 

My opinions are based on personal hands on experience, millions of kilometres in extremely harsh & remote country over decades. The question originally asked was answered with budget and reliability in mind and answered fairly, honestly and it is based on real outback experience! Take it or leave it, simple!

It's a very interesting and useful summary: thanks!
I think some of this has been mentioned in other threads about Landcruisers, but it's a good summary for this particular thread.
Regarding the "light duty/heavy duty" factor, I seem to recall that the smaller diameter differentials in the light duty series do not have full diff locks in place; rather there are limited slip diffs (LSDs) fitted all round??

In contrast the 80 series advertised in the UK are all described as having diff locks x 3 (front, back and, presumably, a main diff straight out of the gearbox).

.
.
Not quite correct,
The "differentials, well that's not quite true.
On many so called Light Land Cruisers" they have a locking rear diff, which is also a LSD diff, and also a locking center diff.

The 80 series (there was no SWB 80 series, so really the 80 series should have been called the 85 series, but that just complicates things.) and the 70/71/75 series, have a solid front beam axle, generally allowing for front axle articulation.
But paying a price for road holding and comfort.

The later 90/95 series, the 100 series, and the 120/125 series all have independent front suspension as the difference.
More comfortable, better road holding, and about only 75% the articulation that the solid beam front axles can give.
All are coil sprung, except fro the early 70/75 series rears.

So unless your trip is taking you some where where you need 100% front axle articulation, then there isn't any need for a labouring 80 series.
Your just penalising yourself with comfort, road holding, and heavy fuel economy.

The 90/95 (years about 1995 to 2002)
The replacement 120/125 from 2002 to 2009 are both excellent vehicles. 3.0 Liter turbo diesel, power ranges from about 130bhp to 175bhp. Depending on model.
Almost as cavernous inside as the 80 series, (I say about 90% of the internal size) for the trips that 99% of us will do, bearing in mind, not many of us are heading to the Central African Congo in the rainy season lately..

The 100 series, was the replacement for the 80 series, same'ish sort of engine, but where the 80 series had solid front beam axle, the 100 series was more refined, and was fitted with independent front suspension, like it's smaller 90/95 and 120/125 series.

vette

There is no center diff in the light duties. They do have a LSD at the read but none at the front like hinted above by Walkabout.

Concerning the heavy duty J7: They had spring leaves all around until 1999. Until then they have coil springs at the front and still leave springs at the rear. The two generations are easy to spot: older ones have wheels with 6 bolts, the ones with coil springs at the front wheels with 5 bolts. And the numbering scheme changed. The SWB 70 became the 71, the MWB 73 became the 74 and the LWB 75 remained the 75. But the 75 PU (pickup) became the 79. And the 77 became the 78. To top this all in 2002 Toyota changed the front part of the cars to make place for the V8 engine that our friends from down under so deperately wanted and suddenly there was a 76.

Except for the 105, which still had a solid axle at the front. This makes the 105 one of the most interesting Landcruisers.

Hans

My 95 has a locking rear diff not a lsd, the uk spec 95 Colorado cames with this rather than the lsd of elsewhere in the world. I'm pretty sure that it's also got a centre diff, centainly has the option of High Locked and Low Locked.

Sure the 80's etc may techically be better off road but they aren't cheap and the only troopy on fleabay at the mo is listed at £25k :eek3:

The 95 is a very capable overland vehicle and mines served me well over 2 months and 15000km in Morocco

Don't think mine dos 30mpg though :(

It was becoming apparent that the models marketed by Toyota in different countries vary in the detail, even if they have similar market designations and titles (and even the same engine fitted).

Coincidentally, I have been looking at the ebay LCs this evening; from over 280 on sale in the UK right now there is the one Troopy identified above + a couple, or so, HJ40s at asking prices of £7-14K.
I guess they are all collectable here in the UK; certainly some of the later models come with cheaper asking prices.

Going with the view expressed earlier - that there is little wrong with the later models of LC despite the "more plastic" bodywork - what views are there about the later D-4D engine? Could it be, for example, they are more fuel efficient than the earlier machines?

Apologies to the OP if the Hilux (or the RAV for that matter) are still of interest: the LC has cornered this thread :innocent:

.
Hi Hans,
I respectfully suggest you don't know Land Cruisers as well as I do.
the 90/95 and the 120/125, both Land Cruisers certainly have locking center diffs.
The rear diffs can be LSD, or LSD "AND" locking rear diff.

Suggest you join a worthy Land Cruiser site,
Land Cruiser Club

And ask a few questions.

vette

.
Hans,

I am not sure where you are finding your information, however, please refrain from posting incorrect information.
You are really confusing folk here.
You may be referring to Australian Land Cruisers?
Which are not UK or European Land Cruiser.

My 1991 70 series.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ries/front.jpg
.
Notice it has no leaf springs, this is because they are coils all round.
Notice how there are 6 wheel bolts and not 5 as you suggest.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...eries/tyre.jpg
.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...sengerside.jpg
.

vette

.
There are no 105 series available in Europe, so pointless directing the OP in that direction.

Perhaps it would be better if you completed your profile, so members can see where you are?
Then when you tell people about various Land Cruisers, they can at least recognise that you are talking form, what I guess, is an Australia point of perception.

vette

I should have been more precise there. I was referring to J7 light duties.

What you're showing is a J7 light duty, not a heavy duty.

But still I know a few of them here in Germany and I've seen some of them in northern Africa.

This mystery could have been solved by following the links in my signature.

Pointless this discussion has become. After all this not a pissing contest, right? It has wandered too far from the original question, so I'll leave it at that.

Hans

Too true, as has already been pointed out the models, specs and availability of the various Land Cruisers vary considerably around the world.

On the subject of diffs, I have yet to come across a Land Cruiser that doesn't have a Centre Diff Lock, and that is based on working on 60s, 70s, 75s, 78s, 79s, 80s, 90s, 95s, 100s, 105s and 120s in the UK.

Most will either have a rear diff lock or an LSD in the rear axle, I have never come across both in the same axle.

Most 80/105s (except some basic spec and Aus/NZ spec) will also have a front diff locks and most non UK/European/North America models will have part time 4wd with locking front hubs.

THe 90s, 95s, 100s and 120s with the independent front suspension will get you to 98% of the off road routes that a fully articulating 70, 80 or 105 will take you - for overlanding purposes you generally wouldn't want to go to the extra 2% anyway.

One thing with the independent front suspension, whilst articulating trucks can step over things, the independent front suspension doesn't give you that advantage so it is usually worth considering underbody protection for under the engine.

As a guide for Ovelanders from the UK we suggest that if on a budget start to look at the 90/95 Colorados as a starting point, they are perfectly capable of taking you around the world.

If you have deeper pockets or there are more than a couple of you travelling then I would suggest going for a larger 80/100/105 - they are bigger in side making it more comfortable and providing more storage space.


At the other end the Hilux/4Runner/Surfs are gaining popularity and are also extremely capable. In reality they are probably better supported globally than any other model and would be great for bried forays into North Africa however I wouldn't necessarily get one for a round the world trip....

The 80s, 100s and 105s are bigger and less fuel efficient, but due to their size and weight they do chew up the miles off road in a lot more comfort. I regularly test Land Cruisers down a track that is a reasonable example of the sort of road you will find out in Africa or Asia and the larger models always feel a lot more planted and reassuring where as the 90s and 120s are more skittish and suffer from more scuttle shake.

Don't get me wrong I would happily pick any of the models over a LR Defender - living in 1950s discomfort doesn't appeal to me :-)

Just as a completely personal view, this thread is certainly not pointless for me; on the contrary, it contains information that serves to inform me about the models of Landcruisers that are available in various parts of the world - it is that simple.
It's an international forum - that's been said elsewhere recently in discussion about motorcycles - so it should be borne in mind when reading any individual posting.
I suppose an alternative to this current thread could be:-
1. Thread for RHD LCs sold in the UK
2. Thread for "grey import" LCs brought into the UK
3. Thread for LCs sold in continental Europe
4. Thread for LCs imported into Europe
5. Thread for LCs sold in Australia

etc etc

Sure, along the way there are some opinions expressed also, but that's not a problem to me and hopefully not to the OP (but I was concerned in my last post that he hasn't got information that he might want about, for instance, the Hilux).

Unfortunately this is a bit of an urban myth from the Land Cruiser forums.

Most Land Cruisers will have centre diff locks, either electrically or mechanically engaged.

They will then have either an open rear diff, a Limited Slip Diff or fully locking rear diff - you never get an LSD and diff lock.

Thanks for that!
I couldn't understand why any car would be fitted with 2 technologies on the same part of the vehicle that serve such similar purpose.

So, as far as the UK is concerned and as I understand it, there are LSDs fitted to the rear differentials of "grey" imported models of the 90 series (which all UK car dealers seem to refer to as "Prados") and locking diffs fitted to those which are genuine UK models (the "Colorados").

Some people repeat with great authority information they have just read on the net from others with no first hand experiences and so the misinformation goes on, from my experiences of meeting real people on the road, you cannot say for sure what options will be fitted to a Japanese imported Toyota, the great myth of imported 80 series not having rear and front diff locks was blown away when I travelled with a guy for a few weeks with a Jap import with the Toyota diff locks fitted as imported.

Mine is a UK model and does have a Toyota rear diff lock. :thumbup1:

That's part of the reason I've backed away from the Land Cruiser forums.

True, there are no set rules.

Also to complicate things further when looking to buy a Land Cruiser from a second hand car dealer or even a private individual, most won't know the difference between a Prado/Colorado/Amazon, etc and also in most cases none of them would know if there were diff locks or not so you usually have to ask if there is a rotary switch beside the steering column.

I just remembered that the owner of the german site Buschtaxi made a poster of most of the variations of the Landcruisers. Available as JPG (ca. 1MB) here: http://www.buschtaxi.de/fileadmin/da...lc_history.jpg.

Hans

Well that turned into a beast of a thread. :P

In the end I couldnt find a Toyota suitable for me sadly.

I instead have bought a 2003 Nissan Terrano 2.7Diesel. :) Get it on friday

Well, I am grateful that you have stuck it out in this forum. :thumbup1:

And I thought motorcycles have a wide range of model numbers/designations and optional extras. :innocent:
I can imagine that poster on the garage wall of any LC enthusiast.

Damn, after all that, buying a non-Toyota!!
The Surf experience turned you off maybe?

When you have some experience with it, you could contribute to this thread which turned into one that is more enthusiastic for the Terrano than the OP.
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...-x-trail-61322

1996 Prado 1KZ-TE 3.0L TD TX
 

So, to continue the story, I've now invested my hard-earned in one of these:-
http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/to...o/1996_5/8905/

As far as I can tell it is that model; the English language handbook that came with this 17 year old vehicle (Prado 1996-2002, various engines) talks about things that are not on this car and the specification given in that link above is not totally the same.
I guess there were a few variations.

It's running on Bridgestone tyres fitted to alloy wheels right now, and the tyres have very mixed reviews in this link:-
Bridgestone Dueler HP Sport | the Bridgestone Dueler HP Sport reviewed and rated | Page2 | the online tyre guide

Very early days, but :D so far.

Ooops, it's a LWB, so that's the 95 series going by everything above (Prado to the sales people still).

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Hi Dave,

Read every thing and all on this forum here.

Land Cruiser Club

Roll down to see the "90 series" which covers yours

Looking forward to seeing you join.

Vette

As for my newly purchased 95, it certainly does not have a fully locking rear differential, and I hope it is not an open rear diff on such a quality vehicle so this means it must be a LSD on the back (I am assuming that there is no way of telling from a cursory glance underneath, but I do know that there is no locking diff actuator down there and there is no such control on the dash either).

Mais oui, it does have the central locking diff but I have yet to try it out.

And, I'll take it as a given that the front diff is "open" in its' design.

Well done on your purchase Dave, all you need to buy is a GPS now :Beach:

I've owned mine for six or so years and have done around 50,000 miles on and off road in it.

Congratulations Dave on the purchase. The Colorados/Prados are great little trucks.

As you say the chances are you have a LSD at the back - if you can jack up one rear wheel with the transfer case in Neutral, if there is an LSD you should struggle to turn the lift wheel by hand (actually I doubt you will be able to turn it).

If it turns but a little stiffly then it will be an open diff.

If you have the LSD it is essential that you use proper LSD oil in it, they don't last long with straight diff oil.

Other things to look out for...
1. The engines are very prone to overheating. Check the rad, hoses and water pump for leaks or other problems and also check the coolant - if it isn't nice clear red colour, use a chemical flush, following instructions to a "T" and then thoroughly flush before filling up with Toyota Red Coolant.

2. ON standard suspension they are prone to rusting around the rear axle and around the top of the fuel tank - if these areas are relatively ok, steam clean and treat with rust treatment, otherwise if rusty get it checked by a professional mechanic - we have come across rusty diffs leaking and suspension mounting brackets rusting - particularly the top link ones because the drain holes get blocked and so they fill up with salty road water - we always enlarge the drain holes to avoid the problem.

3. You can sometimes get starting/running problems - this is usually down to the fuel pipes on the top of the fuel tank (under the boot) rusting and leaking - the tell tale is the top of the tank being very damp. The only solution is to drop the tank and replace the fuel pick-up in the tank and then rust treat.

4. Depending on where you are going it is worth getting a front bash plate.

5. If an auto, make sure it has a good supply of fresh oil - this is often left out of services.

That covers most things, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to post here.

Muchas Gracias indeed!
Thanks for taking the time to post this Julian.
It's very early days and I will take a look at all of your inputs - I have a lot of confidence in the vehicle which has a good service record, is waxoiled beneath and I got it from a dealer with a 3 month warranty and a brand new MOT with no advisories - that gives me a bit of time for any glitches to show up.
One thing regarding the radiator: I gather that the rad can fail and cause contamination of the auto gear box oil.
What say you about this?

Cheers

Not to rain on your parade, but waxoil is often used to cover up rust problems, most warranties tend to be worthless unless the car actually stops dead (although manufacturers dealer warranties tend to be better) and even wrecks can pass an MOT.

On the warranty front the first 80 series I bought had a gearbox problem that had been masked by a fresh oil change, it got worse and within warranty period I asked to get them to fix it and it turned out that the warranty only covered the repairs if the vehicle was dead in the road - a progressive slipping wasn't sufficient to justify a claim!

My advise is always to try several examples of the model you are looking to buy before you get your money out of the bank. That way you should have a better feel for the vehicle when you do your final test drive.

Yes it can happen when the rad gets weakened through rot usually from not using proper coolant. If you have any doubts about the rad swap it out ideally with a factory one - you can never be sure with cheap one's off ebay!

Thanks again for the points! I think they are valuable for the future for anyone else who is looking at these trucks, + myself of course.
About the waxoil, I was aware of how it can be used to cover up problems and I said something on that to the dealer; this waxoil was applied in 2010, with the vehicle imported to the UK in 2005. Looking the dealer guy hard in the eye, one has to make a decision about "truth and trust".
Ditto about warranties; I have had them in the past and claimed on one just once for a second hand vehicle (I have had more warranty claims for brand new vehicles actually). But, yes, I don't have a high level of reliance on such warranties - it is more of a nice to have, giving me 3 months to do that "look 'em right in the eye" thing if I have to go back with it; certainly if I have to use it, it would be as "back to base".

I'm intrigued about how an oil change covers up a fault in a gearbox??
I've been aware that "thickener" additives can be shoved in to silence noises.

More positively, the vehicle is running very smoothly with the temp gauge aligned all the time with the bottom of the temp symbol on the dial - that looks good to me.
Also, the coolant is definitely red but I can't say that it is "Toyota's own"; I will keep an eye on this and I may change it in any case for the stuff from a Toy dealership.

Good talking about such issues.

Actually, it has one of those compass attachments on the dash (with another dial that shows the angle of lean and something else I haven't figured yet).
So, I can go back to basic compass and map, the nav method I was brought up with and know best :thumbup1:

bier

I changed my radiator Dave, the consequences of a failed radiator could cost you an auto gear box, I also used a genuine one as nearly all pattern Toyota radiators nowadays are rubbish.

If you don't chance your radiator at least consider removing it when you change your coolant (It's easy, bolts are undone through the grill) as all sorts of muck gets trapped between the rad and the air-con condenser and you just cannot clean it within the car. As Julian says keeping the cooling system in tip to condition on the model is important. :thumbup1:

Pay particular attention to coolant temp when operating with aircon on in soft sand in high ambient , as they can overheat !!

Still listening, still learning
 

I'm definitely getting the message about radiators. :thumbup1:

It appears that quite a few cases of changing them are done as a precaution; what symptoms, beyond the obvious one on the temperature gauge, can occur before failure?
Certainly, there are no leaks obvious at present; rad, hoses etc seem to be fine.

On a related subject, what is a recommended workshop book for this vehicle? (I am used to Haynes manuals for motorbikes).

Reading elsewhere, there is talk of fitting an oil cooler for the auto transmission fluid; I presume such an arrangement completely bypasses and negates the use of the main radiator to cool the transmission oil - so, an actual failure of the radiator after fitting one of these would have no effect on the auto box???
(Got to say that from a cursory glance I can't see where such a cooler could fit).

I've had the cover off the spare wheel today and it is a different tyre from the 4 in contact with the road - a Dunlop Grandtrek AT2 (M & S marked).

Unfortunately there aren't any tell tales on the rad failure, but the key would be to keep to Toyota coolant which contains rust/rot inhibitors and also avoid cheap replacement rads.

Manual wise, your best bet is to try to track down a Haynes manual for the Prado in Aus (ISBN 9781563928215) or see if you can download some of the factory manuals.

Yes, you could fit a separate oil cooler in front of the rad/aircon core as opposed to using the bottom of the rad - even if using the one in the rad it's worth adding an extra one if you are planning on a lot of sand/mud work or a lot of towing, all of which can lead to the gearbox over heating.

OK, here's a rather long winded question.
I've looked at one document that shows the jacking positions as dead centre of the Prado, at the front and back - at the back it shows jacking against the centre of the differential while for the front the jacking point seems to be just to the rear of the centre line of the front wheels (these are "sketchy" line diagrams in a manual but I think I am interpreting them correctly). The main point is that all jacking is shown as being on the longitudinal centre line.

In contrast, the jack supplied with the car (which seems to be a genuine Jap version) has illustrations (more sketches) of jacking the rear axle offset to either side of the differential. For the front, the same sketch shows jacking inline with the centre line of the wheels, in total contrast to the manual, and offset from the vehicle longitudinal centreline.

The jack head itself, IMO, has quite a small point of contact with the vehicle; so, are there specific jacking points under the car into which the top of the jack fits? (I have yet to crawl right in there, you can tell).

Unfortunately the jack doesn't fit on to any particular slot.

What we have done in the past for 80 series owners is to make up a small cradle that sits on top of the factory jack to cup the axle or chassis rail - this would work for you as well.

Thanks again
 

:thumbup1: Well that makes sense; it crossed my mind to use a bit of plywood on top of the jack to spread the load a bit, but your idea must be more substantial.
Anyway, when the snow and the cold winds have cleared off I aim to crawl around under there to see what is to be seen and compare that with these Japanese sketches.

Re extra trans cooler ,very good advice , plumb in as supplementary to one in rad , if you can find place other than in front of rad & condenser even better as you are not then passing heated air back into cooling flow .

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NO! NO! NO!

Not to be plumbed in "in line" with the one in the rad.
The one in the rad is the one that will fail.
You need to totally not use that one built into the bottom of the rad.
Totally disconnect the bottom rad auto box cooler, and only use the new cooler that you have bought.

vette

Sounds like needs a new rad as well then , as its a good idea to help warm auto trans up from cold JMHO:thumbup1: