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Old 18 Oct 2011
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H60 hubs

HI all
the front swivels on my H60 are pissing oil, unfortunately, rather foolishly toyota made these a cast part of the axle so they can 't be replaced, as far as I can tell. Even grease pours out.

The problem is due to scoring and pitting from corrosion on the chrome swivel.
anyone any ideas on a possible solution other than changing the seals every 10000 miles!!
1990 Landcruiser H60. Full rebuild completed 2014
2012 Hilux, mountain top and bedrug with GG AT2s
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Old 19 Oct 2011
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Chemical Metal and some delicate use of wet and dry paper?
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Old 19 Oct 2011
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You could also see if there are any swipe seals left, if you have any. Not familiar with Toyotas.
Do you need oil in the swivels? can you get away with something thicker like grease? My G wagen uses grease but the cv is sealed inside a gaiter.
"Never have a stupid argument with an idiot - he gets a lot more practice than you"
there I go again
not too hard really
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Old 21 Oct 2011
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hi would this be another solution? i have heard of silver soldering the pits then filing down smooth, finishing with wet and dry then a polish and/or this Gearing Dynamics centre differentials for Toyota Landcruisers fitting page. Also Greasable CV Joints, CV Boots, Exhaust Brakes, Air Suspension, Radiators hope this helps steve
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Old 24 Oct 2011
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The Gearing Dynamics boots seem to be the long term solution. Some good mechanic in India or Pakistan would be delighted to fill the holes and scrapes with brazing compounds and then sand them smooth....for an eminently reasonable price. Be sure to pay him a bit extra, he needs the $$ more than we do.
Also: there is an oil seal at the outside of the differential housing tube, inside diameter about 1.31". That keeps the gear oil out of the housing for the CV joint, which should theoretically have only grease inside it.

Unimog U500 w/Unicat
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Old 26 Oct 2011
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Firstly make sure the inner axle seal is replaced so that none of the diff oil is leaking into the knuckles.

We normally just use a flap sanding wheel for our die grinder to smooth off the roughness and then spray with a rust treatment to slow down further pitting.

The seals are only supposed to hold back CV grease (unlike some LR/RR ones) so as long as there is no roughness that can wear the seals down just renewing them should be enough, otherwise if they are severely pitted you could go the chemical metal route although very labourious.

The gearing dynamics boots are interesting although I have had them fail on 80s and also if not checked regularly they could end up with water in them which would lead to rapid rusting - I don't think the seals are good enough to hold back water for that long.

Julian Voelcker
Overland Cruisers - Specialising in Land Cruiser preparation and servicing.
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Old 28 Oct 2011
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Change inner drive shaft seal to get rid of the oil in the knuckles. Make sure the swivel housing bearings are in good condition and are properly adjusted. Also make sure the Inner axle kunckle bushing not are worn out. Otherwise the driveshaft won't be in the center and the drive shaft seal will soon start to leak again.
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Old 29 Oct 2011
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They seem to be the same as the Daihatsu design then, on my old F20 I used something similar to chemical metal to fill the grooves then wet and dry to smooth it out. I sprayed it with aluminium paint, fitted fresh wipe seals and filled the hubs up with the semi-liquid grease sold for Land Rovers. This seemed to do the trick for the five years or so I kept it afterwards.

In addition to what is said above about centering the hub, there are shims under the top and bottom bearings which need to the same thickness top and bottom to get this right.

Regards - Alastair
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