Wiring Multiple Accessories
 

Hi folks,

I need to wire up a few things (GPS, heated grips, power socket etc). Each item has it's own wiring with ring connectors and an in-line fuse, but I'd prefer to have something a bit neater without so many connections on the battery terminals.

Can anyone tell me how to go about doing something like fitting one main feed and splitting it to each device, either with one main fuse or independent fuses on each branch, that's only live when the ignition is on?

Any suggestions very welcome. I'm getting nowhere....

Thanks!!

I use one of these WWW.NIPPYNORMANS.COM

Not cheap and I am sure if you know you way around electrics you could easily knock one up for less, but once fitted adding in extra electrics is a piece of cake. Also if you get the additional relay then you can wire it up so it's only live with the ignition.

That's the right kind of idea, just a little pricey.

Thanks to this helpful article Fitting a power socket - Honda Trail Bike Wiki I now know how to make my feed live from the ignition, using a £1.98 relay.

All I need now is a way of splitting the live feed from the relay onward to my multiple devices.

What is the best way of making a 4-into-1 connection?

I've been looking for some kind of distribution panel, but that Nippy Normans one is the only thing I've seen. Can anyone point me to a cheaper option?

You can use Choc Bloc Electrical connecters (found in any Electrical shop) -

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling...ock_wiring.jpg


Image taken from :- Electrical Mods for the R1200GS


You still should add in a fuse for each outlet (horn, lights, grips etc etc) It'll be cheaper than the Centec unit, but unless you're a wiring God it'll look messy and possibly be somewhat unreliable and difficult to fault find on.

I'd recommend a Centec type unit (they're not the only manufacturers of this type of thing) every time. And make your own loom instead of having bits of wire running all over the place.

You could simply solder four wires to your one thick feed wire, however I've never really got the hang of soldering myself and have given up with it now. If you've not tried soldering before I wouldn't recommend trying this route as its a ballache.

I would use a chocolate block connector like you'd use with your house wiring, and stick all the wires in one end and tighten the grub screw. It aint pretty but it works. No doubt someone will jump in and say that this could never possibly work for any length of time, but I've never had any problems with this method. Plus if your wires do pull out after a several thousand miles you just undo the grub screw, stick em back in again, and retighten, and good for another few thousand. Just because something is simple or scruffy doesn't mean it isn't effective.

Twist three wires together and solder over. Heat shrink the joint. Repeat. Twist two of the two pairs together, solder and heat shrink. Solder a female spade onto one end of the 1:4 flying lead and Robert's your dads brother.

Mechanical connections WILL fail, bits of plastic WILL hold water, solder is your friend. :thumbup1:

In 20 years of working on vehicles the only exception I can think of is IP68 connectors. For things like your GPS that don't need more than 5A, cut off the open bendy contact ISO/DIN sockets and refit IP68's. Vehicle Wiring Products will post all you need overnight.

Andy

You also need to make sure the wiring is up to the load, having tried to draw power for an 8 Watt Jacket from a 3 Watt socket I can assure you that things will melt if they are not up to the job :innocent:

I've got to say that the biggest cause of electrical problems is badly soldered connections.

Statistically, the best way to join things together, from an electrical perspective, is to cold weld them together using a crimp tool. Pliers just don't supply enough force.

YMMV.....

Clever and cheap. Nice!

Me too.. might be costly but it is a lot cheaper then having to rewire your bike cus you did a hack job in the first place...

But as important.. what ever you do.. put everything behind a relay. direct wiring is the best way to fry it

If you want something neat, next time I'd recommend one of these two.

This is what I have, very trick features:

FUZEBLOCKS.COM

http://fuzeblocks.com/images/thumbnails/001_tn.jpg

http://fuzeblocks.com/images/thumbnails/016_tn.jpg



This one is new and pretty nice as well:

PC-8

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...open-wired.jpg

It will be tricky to make all the cabling look neat. I like the choc block idea. One fuse is may not be suitable. If you plan to use more than one device at a time the fuse will need to be larger to accomodate the amps of all devices on at the same time.
Danger is when only one device is used, the device will need to exceed the larger fuses amps before it blows. I would advise to rather use more smaller correctly rated fuses for each device.
Remember to use the correct thickness cable if extending any cables to devices. A thicker cable is able to carry more amps than a thinner cable. If the cable is too thin it will cause it to heat and supply insufficient power to the device.
When soldering it is best to tin the tip (just melt a little solder). Tin the wires tip. Warm the area you area about to solder slightly first. Then proceed to solder the two together by melting solder on the area.

those fuseblocks.com gizmos are very neat, as i'd expect for $80. i have wired in a "fuse+relay socket" part#RS3F £2.02ea from Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd. Suppliers of auto electrical parts.
i hope they are still going i cant get onto the website, so i took a pic of my bike.

anyway basically its a small relay block with 3 seperately fused outlets. i put in a 30A relay wired direct via a fuse to the battery, switched from the headlight circuit so i cant leave anything on all the time. its powering the stebel nautilus horn, heated grips and front power socket at the moment. all the outlets i wired with spades (yes, the dreaded spades ummm im telling mum....) so i can chop and change as i feel like