Is it important to use the same brand engine oil?

**tommysmithfromleeds** · #1 24th September 2009

Probably a stupid question but my engine oil is due a change, and Im supposed to use AGIP according to my manual, but this can only be bough online and not from wilcos down the street.

My question is it important to use the same brand, or will castrol be good enough?

Thanks guys and gals

**dave ede** · #2 24th September 2009

Castrol will be fine, just make sure that you don't use fully synthetic when it is not recommended, this can cause clutches to slip, Honda used to say only use Honda oil but this was not produced by Honda as Honda never had, and I am sure still don't have thier own refineries!

**tommysmithfromleeds** · #3 24th September 2009

hey dave thanks mate. will be popping down to wilcos tommorrow.

**dave ede** · #4 24th September 2009

Some people swear by mega priced 'brand' names, I have always found cheap brands to be ok, but as with whatever oil I use I always change it every 1000 miles or so(5-600 in my crf230). I have even found Halfords own brand to be ok,as someone once pointed out to me, Halfords have to buy the oil from a large supplier,which is probably a 'big name'.

**tommysmithfromleeds** · #5 24th September 2009

thats a good point dave, theres probably one refinery stuck in the middle of knowhere with agip, castrol, texaco trucks all parked outside! I think Derbi suggesting agip is just product placement, I even have agip stickers on my swing arm. Italian owned company and Italian oil: Im sure one will have shares in the other.

**Pigford** · #6 24th September 2009

A fully synthetic oil - specifically for a motorcycle "wet clutch" is fine... As long as its got a JASO spec rating, or sumink like that ?

Good old Castrol GTX is OK and as said earlier - more importantly - change oil & filter often & regularly - then no problems!

**oilman** · #7 25th September 2009

You can use a synthetic as long as it meets the correct specs, most so called synthetics are mineral based anyway.

If need be all oils mix so you can mix brands, when chaning the oil you dont have to use Agip, any well branded oil meeting the specs will be ideal.

Cheers

Guy

**craig76** · #8 30th September 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave ede

I have even found Halfords own brand to be ok,as someone once pointed out to me, Halfords have to buy the oil from a large supplier,which is probably a 'big name'.

Halford's own brand oil is supplied by Comma. I actually asked the manager of a Hein Gericke store, who supplied HG's own brand and he reluctantly let it slip that it was Motul. I've used both in my own bikes with no problems.

**backofbeyond** · #9 30th September 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by oilman

most so called synthetics are mineral based anyway.
Guy

How does that work then? I thought mineral meant it came from stuff dug out of the ground but synthetic was made in a lab by a guy in a white coat. Sounds like there's more to it than that.

**oilman** · #10 30th September 2009

They are known as a group III synthetic, a hydrocracked mineral oil.

This will explain.

Basestock categories and descriptions

All oils are comprised of basestocks and additives. Basestocks make up the majority of the finished product and represent between 75-95%.
Not all basestocks are derived from petroleum, in fact the better quality ones are synthetics made in laboratories by chemists specifically designed for the application for which they are intended.

Basestocks are classified in 5 Groups as follows:

Group I
These are derived from petroleum and are the least refined. These are used in a small amount of automotive oils where the applications are not demanding.

Group II
These are derived from petroleum and are mainly used in mineral automotive oils. Their performance is acceptable with regards to wear, thermal stability and oxidation stability but not so good at lower temperatures.

Group III
These are derived from petroleum but are the most refined of the mineral oil basestocks. They are not chemically engineered like synthetics but offer the highest level of performance of all the petroleum basestocks. They are also known as "hydrocracked" or "molecularly modified" basestocks.
They are usually labelled/marketed as synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and make up a very high percentage of the oils retailed today.

Group IV
These are polyalphaolefins known as PAO and are chemically manufactured rather than being dug out of the ground. These basestocks have excellent stability in both hot and cold temperatures and give superior protection due to their uniform molecules.

Group V
These special basestocks are also chemically engineered but are not PAO.
The main types used in automotive oils are diesters and polyolesters. Like the group IV basestocks they have uniform molecules and give superior performance and protection over petroleum basestocks. These special stocks are used in all aviation engines due to their stability and durability. Esters are also polar (electro statically attracted to metal surfaces) which has great benefits. They are usually blended with Group IV stocks rather than being used exclusively.

It is common practice for oil companies to blend different basestocks to achieve a certain specification, performance or cost. The blending of group IV and V produces lubricants with the best overall performance which cannot be matched by any of the petroleum basestock groups.

Cheers

Guy

**backofbeyond** · #11 30th September 2009

Blimy! Almost sorry I asked now. No wonder it's so confusing. And confused I am over which oils go where. It's got to the stage where I'm leaving the old oil in rather than make a mistake with the new stuff.

In our household we have seven motorcycles and three cars, almost all of which have a requirement for a different spec engine oil and dire warnings of disaster if you get it wrong.

I suppose if I dedicated a week to it with a printout of the meanings behind the various oil classifications and a magnifying glass to read the back of the cans at my local motor factors I could work out what should go where, but the gap between birth and death is short enough as it is. No wonder people just choose the can with the eyecatching label endorsed by an appropriate celeb. I'm just surprised we haven't yet had Ewan and Charlie telling us that brand X got them to Cape Town and as they wouldn't use anything else for overlanding why should we.

In the meantime I've got to work out whether the oil I was thinking of putting in my TD5 Land Rover will also work in my Honda CBX and whether it has too much / too little zinc stuff to damage the flat top tappets in my '60's Lotus twin cam.

**tommysmithfromleeds** · #12 30th September 2009

cheers for all the replies guys. i ended up getting some castrol 4t semi and putting it in on monday and it works very nicely indeed.

**oilman** · #13 30th September 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by backofbeyond

Blimy! Almost sorry I asked now. No wonder it's so confusing. And confused I am over which oils go where. It's got to the stage where I'm leaving the old oil in rather than make a mistake with the new stuff.

In our household we have seven motorcycles and three cars, almost all of which have a requirement for a different spec engine oil and dire warnings of disaster if you get it wrong.

I suppose if I dedicated a week to it with a printout of the meanings behind the various oil classifications and a magnifying glass to read the back of the cans at my local motor factors I could work out what should go where, but the gap between birth and death is short enough as it is. No wonder people just choose the can with the eyecatching label endorsed by an appropriate celeb. I'm just surprised we haven't yet had Ewan and Charlie telling us that brand X got them to Cape Town and as they wouldn't use anything else for overlanding why should we.

In the meantime I've got to work out whether the oil I was thinking of putting in my TD5 Land Rover will also work in my Honda CBX and whether it has too much / too little zinc stuff to damage the flat top tappets in my '60's Lotus twin cam.

Let me know what cars/bikes you have and I will give you an idea of what to put in them

Cheers

Guy

**oilman** · #14 30th September 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommysmithfromleeds

cheers for all the replies guys. i ended up getting some castrol 4t semi and putting it in on monday and it works very nicely indeed.

Castrol will be ideal

Cheers

Guy