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  #1  
Old 7 Jul 2013
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10/40 semi Car oil in a Bike?

Due to not getting any 10/40 semi bike oil at the time i used 10/40 car oil which i have currently done around 1000 miles on with no issues

Should i change this asap or would it be OK for another 1500 miles

Not sure of the ins and outs with using car oil as many mixed views on it
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  #2  
Old 7 Jul 2013
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It should be fine, it's the right weight/viscosity, but I'm sure there will be oil purists that disagree.

I end up putting oil that is 'recommended' for diesel trucks in my bike all the time and it's no problem - apart from arguing with oil vendors in remote places about it not being bike oil, and trying to explain that I have a knackered 45 year old bike with big pistons - that has lead to some minor 'overheating'
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Old 7 Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesleyDRZ400 View Post
Due to not getting any 10/40 semi bike oil at the time i used 10/40 car oil which i have currently done around 1000 miles on with no issues

Should i change this asap or would it be OK for another 1500 miles

Not sure of the ins and outs with using car oil as many mixed views on it

There will be mixed views on using car oil in a bike. To me it's how hard do you ride your bike. The manufactures are going to state an oil that will cover them if you rag the Azz off the bike. Now if you are riding it like Aunt Daisy, then to me your going to be ok.

But each to there own. I can't see you doing any damaged to the engine. If you are not going over car type of rev's.
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  #4  
Old 7 Jul 2013
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There's two main issues with using car spec synthetic oil in a bike - the first one is that some bike clutches react badly to some of the anti friction additives and start to slip. As far as I can see it's not all clutches and / or all oils and it tends to be worse with full synth rather than semi. If you've done 1000 miles already it probably isn't going to be a problem.

Second problem is longer term and depends on the mechanical spec of your engine. Some of the chemical additives that used to be in most oils have been left out of car oils because they cause problems with the catalysts. Some, but not all, bike engines still need these additives but the lack of them only manifests itself over a longer period, and not at all if it's an "older" design - probably!
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  #5  
Old 7 Jul 2013
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Bike engines need zinc ,which is not found in modern car oils to any great extent and some bike clutches will react badly to the friction modifiers in car oils .
Semi or full synthetic won't make any difference ,it's all to do with the additives in the oil .
Oils designed for diesel engines generally work very well in bikes , some such as Shell Rotella are JASO rated for bikes , other oils may well be OK in bikes but the oil company hasn't bothered or even thought about having them rated .
So to answer your original question , look at the oil spec and see if it's JASO rated and if not ,dump it and put in an oil that is suitable for your bike , OR take the risk and keep on riding- [ but gently does it ! ].2500 miles on a car oil is probably not going to do any harm but if you ride flat out everywhere then it probably will start to wear prematurely but you're hardly likely to notice .
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  #6  
Old 7 Jul 2013
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you may find you get a slipping clutch after a while of using car oil (especially in top gear at highway speeds), due to modifiers in the car oils not being compatible with wet clutch engines.

I am no oil guru, but I have used car petrol or diesel oil a number of times in bikes due to necessity, but each time I do, I only use pure mineral oil with no additives.

Then I change to full synth motorcycle oil as soon as its practical.

That my general rule. Stick to moto oil. If you have to use car petrol or diesel oil, then use only pure mineral oil without friction modifyers, NOT car synth or semi synth oils.
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  #7  
Old 8 Jul 2013
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Depends a lot on the bike.
Some don't use engine oil for their clutches and gears unlike many modern designs. My Enfield has gearbox oil in the gearbox and engine oil for the engine and separate oil again for the clutch/primary. BMW I had didn't have a wet clutch. and had separate oil for gearbox and engine, better that way because gears really chew up oils.

If you have a design that uses the same oil for engine and gears then it will get chewed up pretty quickly by the gears, so I would not run that oil for long.

To give you an idea, some diesel cars with fully synthetic oils can run 20,000 miles between changes. the same oil in a bike which shares the oil with the gears would need oil changes at 5-6,000 miles. Because the gears literally chew up teh long chain polymers in the oil destroying it.
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Old 8 Jul 2013
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Ive put in car oil a few years back and after a while when I gave it gas the bike would surge and not go. It did it fairly quikly and that's when I found out about the wet clutch additives and non moly use. I changed the oil with motorcycle oil and it slowly cleared up. Another Honda I recently bought had motor oil in it, if the bike sat for two weeks it took a bit of effort to get the plates to release , again changing it to the correct oil it now doesn't stick at all. I'll never use car oil even though I'm sure some will work fine.
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  #9  
Old 9 Jul 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrider View Post
. Another Honda I recently bought had motor oil in it, if the bike sat for two weeks it took a bit of effort to get the plates to release , again changing it to the correct oil it now doesn't stick at all. I'll never use car oil even though I'm sure some will work fine.
I'm not sure that's down to it being car oil - I've got the correct bike spec oil in all of my bikes and two of the Hondas suffer from clutch stick after not being used for a while. Back in the spring I had to take the clutch apart on one of them to get the plates to release after it hadn't been used over the winter.
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  #10  
Old 9 Jul 2013
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Ive had to use car oil in South America in the DR650, I bought decent Castrol 10/40 dino oil. The bike ran fine on it for a few thousand kms, but where possible run dedicated bike oil.

If you have to run car oil make sure on the small API/JASO standard circular 'logo' it does NOT say 'Energy Saving' - this is (currently) how to tell if it has friction modifiers in it, which will ruin a wet clutch.
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  #11  
Old 11 Jul 2013
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The "energy saver" symbol is what rings a bell as what's to be avoided. I know oils with moly are a no-no.

As for the sticking clutch, it had to be something with the oil that was in it, It would start sticking if it sat for 2 days and got progressively tighter every day longer. In two week I would have to rock the bike for a couple minutes to break it loose, the motor would just choke off. After I put in my Klotz full syn, and went for a ten mile ride, it has never stuck since. It sat for 3 weeks recently now that my XT is going, and its good yet. Must have been something in the oil that the plates didn't like. I did have a quad that from new stuck some(broke free fairly easy) after a month, did that yet when I sold it four years later.
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  #12  
Old 15 Jul 2013
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Quote:
New JASO oil standards (MA1, MA2):
JASO effectively added the JASO-MA2 & JASO-MA1 specifications by splitting the existing JASO-MA spec into two groups by friction-performance (MA1 is the lower friction oils; MA2 the higher friction oils suitable for bikes). The change came out as final/approved in 2006 in response to catalytic converters becoming widespread in bikes (EPA/EU requirements); it was also prompted in part by the car-lobby of the JASO organization wanting to specify a subset of the JASO-MA oils for use in their cars (the low friction oils, which become JASO-MA1). JASO-MA2 is just starting to show up in the US Market as a rating because this is the first year that catalytic converter-equipped bikes are widespread.
Aside from splitting the MA spec into two sub-groups, the new specs add a phosphorous content ceiling (better protect catalytic converters by using less, but phosphorous is also anti-wear additive, so it could be less start-up protection). JASO-MA2 being the heavier friction oils most suitable for motorcycle use will become the common standard for Japanese-built (and many Euro-built) motorcycles for the '08 and later model years.
Note that JASO-MA2 can now be API SJ formulated, but API SL & API SM formulations still directly contradict JASO-MA/MA1/MA2 standards because of the use of friction modifiers that are not wet-clutch compatible.
The JASO-MA (no suffix number) still remains in effect as well. For the Kats, API SF/SG + JASO-MA rated oils will remain the oils of choice until they are no longer available.
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  #13  
Old 29 Jul 2013
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Yer i changed it and no issues from using car oil for a short time, needs/must hey?

However i did have a little issue with no oil reading on my dipstick but when drained the full 1.7L came out and this was after i changed it but that is all sorted now and bike still rides perfect
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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I have found out that DR-Z 400 oil measurement shows little bit low oil amounts even you have excact amount of oil by manual. For me also 1.7 liter added oil without oil filter change doesnt show in oil stick. Measurement stick is dead dry.
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Old 29 Jul 2013
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Well at least the Vodka was good in Bishkek
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