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  #1  
Old 31 May 2010
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Question DRZ wiring

Hi All, first ever post on hubb but afraid not very exciting! I'm looking at putting heated grips on drz and have found a connector behind headlight coming out of instruments coloured blk/yel stripe & blk/wh stripe with nothing connected. Is this a spare supply or for diagnostics etc? I'm thinking the latter as it only had 5v or so coming out of it. If so, are there any other spare supply connectors or will I have to run the wiring back to the battery? Thanks Tim
PS Has anyone had any electrical issues (sensors, CDI etc) or otherwise with drz's? (Going to change batteries for something a bit more reliable).
PPS Me and Daisy off to S. America (Nov) on 2 of them (04 models) for 4mths..... CANNOT wait!!!!

Last edited by timdais; 31 May 2010 at 22:36.
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  #2  
Old 1 Jun 2010
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I would run a new fused supply from the battery and switch it with the ignition via a relay. Alternatively, you can get "smart" relays that only allow power through when a battery has sufficiant charge.
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Old 1 Jun 2010
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Wiring to the battery is the easy option as long as you remember to turn the grips off every time. I've seen a few embarassed owners return to their bike only find a flat battery.....

Ideally you want to use a power feed that is switched i.e. only live when the ignition's switched on. I've used power feed wires from brake lights in the past by replacing the connector with a piggy-back spade connector & taking that live feed to power the heated grips.
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Old 1 Jun 2010
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I made this ! .: Distribution Block / Powered Relay | Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring :.

Cost about £10 in parts and works a treat !!
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Old 1 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *Touring Ted* View Post
I made this ! .: Distribution Block / Powered Relay | Canyon Chasers Motorcycle Sport Touring :.

Cost about £10 in parts and works a treat !!
Sounds like a relay running through the ignition is the way to go!(good link ta TT) will give it a go and let u know.
Has anyone had any cdi, sensor or regulator problems? Ive only done a couple of thousand miles so dont really know the bikes possible issues(both S model 04) ! Have a mate who says he might have a spare cdi so will be taking that.
While I'm here and on a roll with the replies.. I'm thinking of beefing up the subframe to cope with a bit of luggage, downward struts, bolts and locating tabs has anyone done this before?
Thanks for your help
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Old 2 Jun 2010
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If you need to brace the subframe, you're taking too much gear. !!

Theres no point having a lightweight enduro capable bike to then load it up like a landrover.

I've not heard of subframes snapping but then again, people tend to pack very light on a DRZ. Soft luggage panniers and a ortlieb seem to be the norm !

As for electrics, the only high mileage failures I've heard of are the Stator !!
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  #7  
Old 2 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timdais View Post
While I'm here and on a roll with the replies.. I'm thinking of beefing up the subframe to cope with a bit of luggage, downward struts, bolts and locating tabs has anyone done this before?
Thanks for your help
Made these recently, mounted to lugs welded to the frame above the swingarm pivot to brace the subframe.



More here, don't be confused by the bike changing colour, it's the same bike:

DRZ PANNIER FRAMES - Steve's Photos
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Old 3 Jun 2010
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mmmm.. food for thought. Using giantloop coyote saddlebags, an ali box on one bike(security) and a rack on the other with front racks on both. Most of weight is gonna be spares as only taking one spare thong each Less weight the better obviously and trying to spread it out and down.
Like the frame u've knocked up there steve, only thinking of 1 extra bracing tho because of coyote's, but then again like ted say's we shouldn't have too much weight in the first place so do we need it !?

Gonna pour myself a glass and go and sit in the shed now
Cheers
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Old 7 Jun 2010
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Hi welcome to the forum.

Just a quick side-note, I did the relay route to my drz, using a halfords relay switch, spliced with the grey lead from the igntion barrel (which is the tail/parking light feed). Since I've fitted it (with the grips) i've had to change the fuse every time I've used the grips, something shorts out and a fuse is needed to replace the fuse.

I'm no wiring specialist (quite the opposite) but just make sure where you put yours it's well insulated and out of the weather.
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Last edited by Neil; 7 Jun 2010 at 07:22. Reason: forgot to mention grey
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  #10  
Old 8 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil View Post
Hi welcome to the forum.

Just a quick side-note, I did the relay route to my drz, using a halfords relay switch, spliced with the grey lead from the igntion barrel (which is the tail/parking light feed). Since I've fitted it (with the grips) i've had to change the fuse every time I've used the grips, something shorts out and a fuse is needed to replace the fuse.

I'm no wiring specialist (quite the opposite) but just make sure where you put yours it's well insulated and out of the weather.
Cheers Neil will have to look into this a bit more then as it sounds like your're getting a short as you said. Is that the main fuse or have you put another in line? Cud it be a duff relay? I'm putting some heated strips on so I can put foam grips on.(vibes!!!) so wether they need less power I'm not sure (box was in chinese!! and I only know 1 word and dont even know how to spell that). Has anyone used them before? Ta
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Old 20 Jun 2010
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Sounds like Neil's got faulty grips (or a chafed cable feeding the grips).

If it's just heated grips you want to power, you don't really need a relay - they draw surprisingly little power once warmed up - 15W (an Amp and a bit) or so, and that's less than your brake lamp bulb. The "fast heat up" setting, which gets too hot to hold after a minute or two is usually still less than 50W (4A).

The official Honda ones for an Africa Twin come with a harness to run them from the feed to the front brake light switch. If you're fitting a relay to power other things as well (an accessory socket, GPS, microwave, toaster etc) then might as well run the grips through that too, just don't get Neil to wire 'em in.

On the luggage front, I think the DRZ subframe could do with some help when laden. Looking at the bike from the left, (Steve's pic is rather handy):
Quote:
...the subframe forms a nice strong triangle from the top of the main frame, to near the back of the seat and down to the bottom of the main frame. Everything mounted behind the back of the seat is cantilevered off the back of that triangle. Given the subframe is aluminium, it won't take much load over bumpy roads to snap that back section off - which has been done by a fair few peeps in the past.

Sat next to mine with the LH panels off yesterday, waiting for that bobbins OE battery to charge up again, I figured that I could add a tube from the lower subframe mount (by the front sprocket) up to the "extra" hole on the helmet lock lug (where Steve's slinging his tool tube from), which would eliminate that cantilever effect for the LHS. At some point I'll get round to whipping the panels off the RHS and work out a similar plan for that. Not yet worked out whether the lower mounting of my extra strut would be able to clear the chain-run/swingarm without getting in the way of my ankle, but as a concept it'd work well.
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  #12  
Old 20 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djadams View Post
Sounds like Neil's got faulty grips (or a chafed cable feeding the grips).

If it's just heated grips you want to power, you don't really need a relay - they draw surprisingly little power once warmed up - 15W (an Amp and a bit) or so, and that's less than your brake lamp bulb. The "fast heat up" setting, which gets too hot to hold after a minute or two is usually still less than 50W (4A).

The official Honda ones for an Africa Twin come with a harness to run them from the feed to the front brake light switch. If you're fitting a relay to power other things as well (an accessory socket, GPS, microwave, toaster etc) then might as well run the grips through that too, just don't get Neil to wire 'em in.

On the luggage front, I think the DRZ subframe could do with some help when laden. Looking at the bike from the left, (Steve's pic is rather handy):

...the subframe forms a nice strong triangle from the top of the main frame, to near the back of the seat and down to the bottom of the main frame. Everything mounted behind the back of the seat is cantilevered off the back of that triangle. Given the subframe is aluminium, it won't take much load over bumpy roads to snap that back section off - which has been done by a fair few peeps in the past.

Sat next to mine with the LH panels off yesterday, waiting for that bobbins OE battery to charge up again, I figured that I could add a tube from the lower subframe mount (by the front sprocket) up to the "extra" hole on the helmet lock lug (where Steve's slinging his tool tube from), which would eliminate that cantilever effect for the LHS. At some point I'll get round to whipping the panels off the RHS and work out a similar plan for that. Not yet worked out whether the lower mounting of my extra strut would be able to clear the chain-run/swingarm without getting in the way of my ankle, but as a concept it'd work well.

I think sellotaping Neils hands together anytime he goes near a tool kit would be a better idea


Dan, you done the 10.6 battery mod yet ?? I definately recommend it and its REALLY easy to do.

About half way down on this page [url="http://www.touringted.com/drz400s-overland-prep"]Touring Ted

Id DEFFO get the rad guards too. Neil thought he didn't need any due to his 28L Safari tank. He dropped the bike at walking pace and the rad split !
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Old 20 Jun 2010
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Yep, the battery mod is def happening - was lulled into a false sense of security by my bike having been fitted with a brand new Yuasa battery when I bought it, seemed to last ok for first few months. Now if I park it for more than a week it won't start.

Aint paying sisneros money for bracketry/strapetry I can make myself, particularly when a YTZ10S is so expensive anyway - just gonna get the battery and start cutting plastic. I'm still considering the shock-and-awe approach to DRZ battery issues by also fitting the kick start!

Will look into rad guards too - you got unabikers on yours then?
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Old 20 Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djadams View Post
Yep, the battery mod is def happening - was lulled into a false sense of security by my bike having been fitted with a brand new Yuasa battery when I bought it, seemed to last ok for first few months. Now if I park it for more than a week it won't start.

Aint paying sisneros money for bracketry/strapetry I can make myself, particularly when a YTZ10S is so expensive anyway - just gonna get the battery and start cutting plastic. I'm still considering the shock-and-awe approach to DRZ battery issues by also fitting the kick start!

Will look into rad guards too - you got unabikers on yours then?
Yup, I have the unibikers. VERY GOOD STUFF. The rads are pretty flimsy on the DRZ.

Best source is these guys Wheeling Cycle Supply - Wheeling, West Virginia, USA

Pick yourself up a set of DRC footpegs from them too. Only about £20 and they are a great improvement.



I played with the kickstart idea for a while but the kit is now about £250. With the battery mod, I really can't see the need now. Ask me that in a few months time though
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Old 7 Jul 2010
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not sure what the 10.6 battery mod is, but you can do the free power mod. re wire from the rectifier to the battery(cutting out the stock fuse) with larger wire. I never checked before/after current levels but many have and notice a good 1-3 Amp addition in charging IIRC. its really easy to do... there's a walk through on Thumpertalk.
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