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  #1  
Old 28 May 2010
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DRZ 400 axle pullers....

Not seen any available, so I thought I'd make a pair by cutting the hex spindle removal tool in half, drilling it out to 12mm to reduce weight and then drill a 6mm hole through it so enable a 6mm steel bar (actually a support stay from an office paperwork tray) in place before welding to the end of the spindle/axle itself. Took an hour or so to make a pair from one hex tool, cost was zero, the tool can't be lost as it's welded on and it frees up space in the toolkit.







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Old 28 May 2010
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I use a tapered 24mm rear axle wrench (I think it's in the original DRZ tool kit anyway) and push it into the front axle hole and rotate it a bit to free it. Then push the other end of the axle while rotating it a bit more. Comes out very easy.
Chris
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Old 28 May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris View Post
I use a tapered 24mm rear axle wrench (I think it's in the original DRZ tool kit anyway) and push it into the front axle hole and rotate it a bit to free it. Then push the other end of the axle while rotating it a bit more. Comes out very easy.
Chris
I think I have Alzheimers (or is it Parkinsons? ). The DRZ has the same size front and rear axle bolt doesn't it? I'll check in the garage now. Hence the 24mm wrench referred to above is for the front and back, not just the back.
Chris
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Old 28 May 2010
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It's my girlfriends bike, she sometimes struggles with removing the spindle herself, hence this mod. She's taking the bike to South America soon, just want it to go as easy as possible.

I don't have a problem with DRZ spindles but using the puller is certainly easier than tugging on a greased spindle.
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Old 29 May 2010
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Good idea! For years many MX and Enduro bikes came stock with these little "quick change" gadgets! Very handy for racers doing ISDE style tire changes. (3 min for total tube/tire change) Don't even have to take your gloves off to pull the axle.

Next you'll be rigging cables for the shift and brake levers to keep them from being yanked off or bent into a U by a root, rock or in a fall. Very handy too, easy to rig.

Maybe upgrade the rear disc guard to a true Alu "Shark Fin" style guard. The plastic ones break easy.

How about a front disc guard? These used to be very popular. Now, almost no one uses them. But just recently (after being gone 10 years) I'm seeing many of the US Super Cross guys using a plastic front disc guard again.

Protects not only the rotor but also the caliper and brake line. Front disc guard was one of my favorites on my race bikes. So many hairy crashes, never a bent rotor or damaged caliper.


My former DRZ-E .... pretty good desert bike ... not so good in the woods.
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Old 29 May 2010
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I'm thinking about making something that prevents the front brake hose on my 950SE being snapped off 65 miles from home..... Don't ask what's prompting me.

I had the handguards not done up quite tight enough and the master cylinder bolts not quite slack enough. Came off on a wet chalk trail in Surrey, guard mount rotated & snapped the brake hose banjo. The rear brake operating rod also disconnected itself (fixed the rear in 30 seconds), front hose requires the spending of cash. I could have some Yorkshire blood in me, short of arm & deep of pocket......

I can see the point of disc guards if riding over rocks etc but not on a bike just used for trailriding.

Nice DRZ-E, not seen yellow sidepanels before, only white? Are they standard E fitment?
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Old 30 May 2010
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I'm thinking about making something that prevents the front brake hose on my 950SE being snapped off 65 miles from home..... Don't ask what's prompting me.

I had the handguards not done up quite tight enough and the master cylinder bolts not quite slack enough. Came off on a wet chalk trail in Surrey, guard mount rotated & snapped the brake hose banjo. The rear brake operating rod also disconnected itself (fixed the rear in 30 seconds), front hose requires the spending of cash. I could have some Yorkshire blood in me, short of arm & deep of pocket......

I can see the point of disc guards if riding over rocks etc but not on a bike just used for trailriding.

Nice DRZ-E, not seen yellow sidepanels before, only white? Are they standard E fitment?
I run my hand guards TIGHT, but use loc-tite on handlebar mounted controls and just keep them snug ... so they can move in crash rather than snap off, break a master cylinder or clutch or brake clamp. Hand guards will move in a crash but not too much and not coming off a jump. Snapping a banjo up there is unusual.

That DR was a 2001, US version, E model. All stock save the obvious extras and all carb and jetting mods. Ran like stink. Perfect. I owned it for four years. Wish I could still have it. Easy to work on .... cause you never have to!

It is rare to damage a brake rotor or caliper trail riding but for $20 and 4 ounces of plastic, to me it is worth it. They don't make on for my DR650. Traveling, the guard can prevent vandalism or people "fiddling" with the rotor, brake line or caliper. I like it.
If they did, I'd run it. Years ago I ran a Flo Orange one on my XR-L and man ... NO ONE pulled out on me. You could see that plastic Orange disc guard 100 meters away.
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