dl650 v strom sproket removal problem
 

2008 dl650 vstrom : Is it common for it to be a right nightmare to get the retaining nut off the front sprocket ? I've bent back the tab washer soaked in wd40 put a stop bar through the wheel can't shift the damn thing. I'm at home in the shed and having a tough time of it. Anyone who has done this on the road gets my respect !

Any tips and tricks greatly received

I've only removed it on a DL1000 but vaguely remember it requiring some extra effort. One approach after trying penetrating oil is to apply a long bar for extra leverage, next step is an impact wrench if you can beg/borrow one, last is to heat it being very careful. Oh and of course double checking to make sure that you are turning it the right way:)

Impact or air socket should do it.

Don't strip the sides of the nut - that can cause all sorts of trouble.... don't ask me how I know.:innocent:

Hola
Yes, its normal than that nut gets super-tide. Also someone could loctited before so first give some heat to the nut with a torch or a heat gun, engine in first gear moved to compression and some helper holding pushed the rear brake lever after some pumping, take care with bars crossing wheels, better a piece of wood to prevent damages. Then using the right socket and a very long lever (sometimes I had to use a 1.5 mts tube to extend a lever) give generous rough short sudden movements, should work…
Regards and good luck, tell about the result…

I've done it 4 times and haven't had too much of an issue. I usually ask someone to step on the rear brake while I use a swivel head 1/2" drive about 24" long so you can get some real leverage. Remember "righty tighty, lefty loosey" and put your back into it! They come with red loctite on the thread so they don't fly off an hour after you drive away. Trust me, it's no fun pushing a motorcycle down the road because you've lost the nut that holds the sprocket on!

I had this exact issue last year. The nut was previously put on by me on the previous change

I tried everything including air socket and heat. In the end, give me a long enough lever and I can move the world

Basically a 5ft length of bar over the solid bar and a rag jammed into the chain sprocket area. Continuous and firm pressure broke the seal, no jerking because it will bounce the bike

Make sure the socket only has enough faces to fit over the nut. This will prevent it stripping or burring the nut

Yup, excellent point about the socket; the cheap ones have double the number of faces and are prone to stripping the sides of the nut; use a good quality one with faces that fit exactly and you will be fine.

Cracked it !
 

Thanks guys couldn't have done it with out you :D

A combination of all of the above ! Air tool and nice new socket did it in the end. What a task that was...........

I have a list as long as your arm of things I love about my wee.
This job is item #1 of things I don't like about it.

Tim

Archimedes ? I think............... Some how I remember that from school a long long long time ago.

6 point Vs 12 point
 

It's a bit more complex than a straight vote for 6 point spanners and sockets, but, yep, I would want to use 6 point/faces in this case.

For anyone who has a couple of hours spare:-
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73245

sprocket cockup !
 

Having recently changed front sprocket and still recovering from the trauma of it all imagine my excitement when I discover I need to do it all again ! doh

On my return from a recent trip I noticed, apart from a worn-out clutch, a oil leak from the clutch push-rod-seal. Guess what it means removing the front sprocket !

TIP if you take your sprocket off at any time change the oil seal on the push rod :thumbup1: It costs next to nothing and is easy to do while the sprocket is off. Pain in the neck to do later. :oops2: