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21 Oct 2007
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Those stone filters will stop sticks and stones, but not gnat hair.
Also, a larger filter will allow greater flow, less resistance.
You will have to learn your own way about when to flip over to reserve on your bike. With the translucent tank this is easy to gauge, and I will sometimes flip to reserve even with a couple of gallons remaining because I know where my next fuel stop will be.
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22 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog
Thanks Lone, I'll try a different filter and also make a bigger loop in the fuel line.
Remember, with the IMS tank the lower lobe of the tank is BELOW the inlet pipe on the carb. But I'll try another filter and see how it goes.
Cheers!
Patrick
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It's a Fysicks thing... 
Apple on the head kinda deal....whatever his name was...
The carb inlet is below the tank, but the carb inlet tube does rise in the NW direction. Some people have put the tube in a vise and gently, but forceably 'encouraged' it to go more southward.
It'll all work out, you know your sht.
BTW, CC rocked.
May your bottles of Carta Blanca be lathered in frost.....
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22 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
like engraving the inside of the valve covers with the clearence values ..
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I just use indelible felt pen and write on the outside of the engine. Also tyre pressures.
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23 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Rider
Those stone filters will stop sticks and stones, but not gnat hair.
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Nor grass seeds - Shade cloth will. Also causes less air to flow. Fly wire will stop most of it .. Both these need a stronger 'filter' for rocks, sticks.
I find indelible felt pen fades over time. Say a year in sunshiine.
__________________
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Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S
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23 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
....
I find indelible felt pen fades over time. Say a year in sunshiine.
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Howdy Frank,
I carry 3 feelers with me on the DR: a 4, an 8 and a fat one that mates with the thin 4 for plugs. There's no need for others.
Yes. Who wants to clean a carb on the side of the road with no shoulder when it's raining and dark, and in inhospitible places just because you allowed crap to reach your carb? Plan for the worse, of course.
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24 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lone Rider
It's a Fysicks thing...
The carb inlet is below the tank, but the carb inlet tube does rise in the NW direction. Some people have put the tube in a vise and gently, but forceably 'encouraged' it to go more southward.
.....
Those stone filters will stop sticks and stones, but not gnat hair.
Also, a larger filter will allow greater flow, less resistance.
You will have to learn your own way about when to flip over to reserve on your bike. With the translucent tank this is easy to gauge, and I will sometimes flip to reserve even with a couple of gallons remaining because I know where my next fuel stop will be..... |
Ehm. Sorry guys.  Can someone translate into stupid speak?
Should I be paying attention?
Do I add anything to my list. Or do I delete something? Or do I wait for a conclusion to something.
If so - er.. what?
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24 Oct 2007
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Gravity sucks
Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog
I've tried two different small fuel filters with my IMS tank. When the bike gets down about 2/3 or 3/4 tank, it won't run. The problem is the IMS tap is LOWER than the fuel intake on the carb.
With enough "head" pressure it seems OK, but once below half a tank I start to worry. Not acceptable for me.
Any things I've missed here? Would a larger Loop of rubber fuel hose help?
Any help appreciated.
Patrick
About to put if all to the test!  |
No liquid can flow uphill may be the problem, although I seem to recall that mercury has some strange properties - but I digress.
"Uphill" includes the resistance of any liquid to flow through a constricted pipe and the "natural" resistance of the friction of the fluid when it is moving (even when it is moving more slowly than you would like): so the potential is for an airlock to develop.
I can't see how a larger loop of hose would help; it would if there is a definite kink in the existing hose, but otherwise it is just adding more flow resistance inside the longer length of tube.
A fuel pump would be the answer.
Good travelling Mollydog,
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24 Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impasto
Ehm. Sorry guys. Can someone translate into stupid speak?
Should I be paying attention?
Do I add anything to my list. Or do I delete something? Or do I wait for a conclusion to something.
If so - er.. what? |
Fit a fuel filter is the basic, generic, translation!! After that, it is a case of which one works best.
No charge for the translation service!! 
BTW, always best to wait for a conclusion.
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6 Nov 2007
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Oh. phew. Thank you!
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14 Dec 2007
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Fuel flow
Quote:
Originally Posted by mollydog
I've tried two different small fuel filters with my IMS tank. When the bike gets down about 2/3 or 3/4 tank, it won't run. The problem is the IMS tap is LOWER than the fuel intake on the carb.
With enough "head" pressure it seems OK, but once below half a tank I start to worry. Not acceptable for me.
Any things I've missed here? Would a larger Loop of rubber fuel hose help?
Any help appreciated.
Patrick
About to put if all to the test! |
Hi all,
First post on a BB.
To solve your fuel delivery problem, a simple, very reliable, vacuum operated diaphram fuel pump will fix it. It is the pump fitted to DR750, XT660 Tenere, XTZ750 Super Tenere (I have all three, plus more). All these bikes have tanks which are below carb level. I run a steel mesh filter before the pump (high flow rate, filters larger bits), and a paper filter after the pump (no little bits make it to the carbs). Very low output pressure, so won't force the needle off the seat.
I haven't tried this (yet), but if anyone wanted a super strong DR with a difference, a DR650 motor in a DR750 frame would be capable. The DR750 frame has bigger tubes everywhere (but doesn't seem to weigh much more; I have the two frames side-by-side). I'm currently fitting a later DR front end (43 mm forks with adjustable preload/damping) and alloy swingarm to the 750 frame.
Does anyone (with an engineering background or tested knowledge) know the pros/cons of tapered roller bearings versus ball bearings in the steering head? e.g. friction versus load capacity, wear, etc.
Thanks in advance....
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14 Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyBGA
Does anyone (with an engineering background or tested knowledge) know the pros/cons of tapered roller bearings versus ball bearings in the steering head? e.g. friction versus load capacity, wear, etc.
Thanks in advance....
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The advantage of a roller bearing is the load is spread over a larger area than ball bearings. For head bearings this means they shoud last longer and require less adjustments than ball bearing.
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16 Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyBGA
Does anyone (with an engineering background or tested knowledge) know the pros/cons of tapered roller bearings versus ball bearings in the steering head? e.g. friction versus load capacity, wear, etc.
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These typically fail due to impact damage - forming a line where the roller contacts the surfaces. If you were to use a ball bearing you would have a point contact - much higher loading on the reduced area = highter failure rate.
__________________
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Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S
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17 Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlyBGA
a simple, very reliable, vacuum operated diaphram fuel pump will fix it. It is the pump fitted to DR750, XT660 Tenere, XTZ750 Super Tenere
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Same kind of pump fitted to Honda ATs, KTM950 ... they do fail...
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The 'vacume system' on later model DRs operates the standard fuel cock. If you put on anotehr fuel tank you probably don't have it ..
__________________
---
Regards Frank Warner
motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S
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18 Dec 2007
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One of the nice things about the DR is that it's blessed with no fuel pump.
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26 Jun 2008
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Wow great stuff
Just a short note to say thanks for such a great effort collating all this info to help other DR riders. Are the techie tips applicable to all models of DR650?Thanks a lot, Jenny64.
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