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#1
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charge problem?
Hey
Im in the runnings to buy a 82 suzuki 1100... The guy says hes not afraid to take it any wear but occasionally wont charge. Im guessing its just a bad connection somewhere. I've got a little mechanical know how... Anyone think its worth the investment? Thanks John |
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#2
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Not enough information for me to guess.
And even with all the information .. all second hand from the seller .. it would still be a guess. In part the answer lies with you the buyer .. do you enjoy working on the bikes electrial system? And can you get parts cheap (or at least for a resonable sum)? And do you consider the price to be worth it? You get 3 yeses then buy it, anything else = pass.
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--- Regards Frank Warner motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S |
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#3
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With all the older GS series (and I'm assuming it must be from the little info you have posted), the regulator/rectifier system blows. There is a very good replacement available, much better AND cheaper that OEM Suzuki parts. Here is the website you need:
The GSResources - GS Garage Go down to The Stator Papers for all you need to know, including about the best step-by-step diagnostic you could ever get. Regards Nigel in NZ
__________________
The mouth of a perfectly contented man is filled with . -- 2200 BC Egyptian inscription
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#4
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Quote:
p.s. I have problems with what I would think be my clutch. because when i floor the gas at higher rpms, it revs up but doesnt move any faster. Any advice would be appreciated. You can pm if you want so the thread doesnt get cluttered. |
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#5
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Quote:
1) Mote Carlo method. Chose a component - replace it .. if not fixed .. chose something else and so on. 2) Logical Method. Diagnose the problem - find out what component is faulty and replace that. If the problem is consistent - there all the time both methods will work. If the problem comes and goes .. you'll only be certain of the 'fix' if you use method 2. Me? Charge the battery. Measure the current drain into the bike - ignition key out, if more than 10 milliamps .. then remove fuses .. if no significant reduction in current then the only things left in the circuit I'd think would be the starter motor relay .. the regulator/rectifier .. unplug them and see .. you'll need a wiring diagram .. and some knowledge. Possibly the person who cut the wire .. added some other wires .. check around the ignition switch where it enters the main loom? ------------------------- Clutch .. change oil. Adjust free play. If still faulty .. replace.
__________________
--- Regards Frank Warner motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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update on my problem... I connected all the wires that were cut off and charged the battery for 10 minutes and drove for about 2 minutes then it completly shut down. I tried starting it from a roll but it still didnt fire up
. I still havent checked it with a voltmeter but I will try that on saturday. Should I check the volts at idle and then rev it after that. Also what volts should I expect.
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#8
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Quote:
There will be a manual for your bike .. may be not this years model .. one that covers a few years ago model.. It should giove you enough information. Join a HU community near you and ask for help .. much easier to physically show you want to do then type it all in .. The DMM should also have a manual .. read it and use the voltage function to measure the battery voltage .. Battery at rest (bike stoped - no charging) 12.5 volts - if less = crock battery or discharged battery. Battery on bike - above idel speed between 13 and 14 volts if less - not charging? Try externally charging the battery up if more - regulator/rectifier is toast. ------------- Leave the bike discharging the battery for another time. It sounds like it is not charging the battery on the bike ...
__________________
--- Regards Frank Warner motorcycles BMW R80 G/S 1981, BMW K11LT 1993, BMW K75 G/S |
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#9
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Suzuki charging problems
The early 80's suzuki road bikes in the USA seemed to have a problem with charging systems. At the various bike shops I have worked at we got into the habit of replacing the stator and the rectifier/regulator when a bike had a charging problem. It seemed that once the regulator/rectifier or the stator went the other component was sure to fail. This wasn't just trying to pad the bill but to avoid another dead battery out on the road. And if your charging system does fail out on the road remember you can tie on a car battery and drive the bike a long ways especialy if you pull the headlight fuse.
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. -- 2200 BC Egyptian inscription

. I still havent checked it with a voltmeter but I will try that on saturday. Should I check the volts at idle and then rev it after that. Also what volts should I expect.
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