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  #1  
Old 10 Jan 2014
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2009 Suzuki DRZ400S Fixes

Hi guys,

Next week I'mk off to my cousin's farm to work on the two 2009 DRZ-400S bikes and I'm after some advice before I head off. Specifically thinks like special tools that I may need to take or techniques to use.

On bike #1, before Christmas we changed the sprockets and chain. All went well. During this process after we pulled the front sprocket off, we found a bunch of thing wire wrapped between the sprocket and case. During last week Peter has been riding the bike and says it has been leaking a lot of oil and his guess is that the output shaft seal is worn and perhaps we pierced it when we pulled out the wire. So if I can ask for confirmation, is this the part I need to replace:



The next job is to replace the stator. I've ordered and received pretty quick the high-output stator from procycles.us and it looks good. I did not think to order a gasket for the clutch cover. In your experience do I need one?



Besides the specific questions above, any general advice on this process before I get too carried away?

Thanks,

Shane
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  #2  
Old 10 Jan 2014
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Yea, sounds like the wire may have damaged the seal. I once owned a DRZ400E ... but can't offer much as it never had any problems. I now have a DR650SE (2006) ... and that same seal on DR650 is known to leak and sometimes pop out! Suzuki now offer a retainer to hold it in place. So several riders have written up reports of changing the seal. Essentially the same job on your DRZ.

Main thing is to be very careful getting the old seal out. Don't scratch or gouge the metal mating surface (easy to do!) The DR650 one comes out pretty easy ... no idea about DRZ one. Sometimes a bit of heat can help ... but use caution.

OR ... perhaps just clean up the grunge in and around the old seal ... who knows? that alone may stop the leak? Worth a try unless you can SEE that the rubber seal is cut ... if so, just replace it. (check for wire caught in behind the seal as well )

For getting the new seal in ... many suggest freezing it first ... if it's a tight press-in fit.

Gasket
On the DR650, most owners are able to save and re-use original gasket. Take it slow and easy when pulling off cover ... a good chance you'll get her off in one piece. If very old, brittle and dried out ... then best go with new gasket.

Light coating of grease on both sides of gasket for reassembly.

Only problems I've heard of with DRZ's were on very early ones ... around year 2000 to 2002 or so, the Auto Cam chain tensioner (CCT) caused some probs but Suzuki fixed the problem in '02 or so (IIRC) ... so later ones should be OK.

I had the "E" model, a 2001, but never had CCT problem. Valves stayed in spec for 3 years! (I ride like a girl! ) Good luck!


Out of control in Baja's deep sand
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  #3  
Old 10 Jan 2014
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On my DR350 I was able to reuse the clutch gasket more than one. Coated (gently) with a smear of grease.
If it tears some gasket sealer should sort it. I'd use not-setting sealer e.g. hylomar blue.
(I'm tempted to say "why the clutch cover gasket?" but I then I don't own a DRZ)

You'll need a suitable pullers to get off the flywheel too, I think.
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Old 11 Jan 2014
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Looks like the right part to me....
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  #5  
Old 11 Jan 2014
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Output shaft seals are a weak point on the Drz. Before a long trip change it and always carry a spare.

This pic shows me changing mine in a forest in Romania:

romania_2008_73_output_shaft_oil_seal.JPG

The pic in the gallery before this one shows it close up.
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  #6  
Old 11 Jan 2014
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Check out my blog in my SIG for more Drz fixes ...

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
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  #7  
Old 17 Jan 2014
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Hi everyone,

Wanted to get back to you on the two Drz 400s 's on the farm. Thanks for all the advice because they are both now aok. Bike 1 output shaft seal went fine. We also did the o ring and spacer to be sure and put on a new guard/retainer. Bike running well.

Bike 2 stator replaced easily and the old gasket was fine, so now we have a spare. Went with the aftermarket stator from procycles.uk as they are $139.00 and oem from Suzuki are $800.00. A few people said to be careful of heat. These bikes only get8 ridden for about 30 minutes max each time whilst working cattle and generally only ten minutes between the workshop and various tractors and harvesters. But we will move to a better quality oil as well to be sure. We had to pull apart the starter torque limiting clutch as the shaft was stuck in the case. This is supposed to be a non-serviceable item, but all you needis a huge vice, some bolts or steel to act as presses and a cousin who knows what he is doing ( Peter, not me).
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Old 18 Jan 2014
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Now a new question. Pete had looked at some lowering links and started to think that may be a big help. I've read some different reports, some good, some bad. If we do this, it will be the 40 mm drop. Ideas, hints, advice anyone?
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  #9  
Old 18 Jan 2014
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IMO, lowering is OK if you're not riding technical tracks at speed. In mild trail riding, you should be OK ...

but you do realize that you lose suspension travel when you add links?

In mild riding, no worries but if you're hitting Whoops hard or charging through big pot holes ... then not so great.

(PS: nice job on the seals and all! )
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Old 19 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanekfalcon View Post
Now a new question. Pete had looked at some lowering links and started to think that may be a big help. I've read some different reports, some good, some bad. If we do this, it will be the 40 mm drop. Ideas, hints, advice anyone?
The lowering links I bought from USA via ebay had too much play- were not bushed adequately and I destroyed two rear shocks.. one in Turkey and one in Iran.. I'd bite the bullet and get used to the height. I'm 5'5 and ride the drz fine now.. and once you have the bike fully loaded that will bring things down a bit.
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Old 22 Jan 2014
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Hi everyone,

Thanks for the advice on the lowering links. The advice here and elsewhere highlights the danger of the lower clearance and the rear wheel and guard rubbing and so I'll be advising Peter to save his money or spend it on rear racks to make these machines more useable.

By the way, I'ld like to get a proper dirt bike for myself so that I can do a few of the bigger trail rides. I feel that the XT225 is just a bit underpowered for some things as I weigh about 100 kilograms. Any thoughts on WR250F or DRZ250? I'm trying to get sufficient power but lower weight and height.

Regards,

Shane
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  #12  
Old 23 Jan 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanekfalcon View Post
Hi everyone,

Thanks for the advice on the lowering links. The advice here and elsewhere highlights the danger of the lower clearance and the rear wheel and guard rubbing and so I'll be advising Peter to save his money or spend it on rear racks to make these machines more useable.

By the way, I'ld like to get a proper dirt bike for myself so that I can do a few of the bigger trail rides. I feel that the XT225 is just a bit underpowered for some things as I weigh about 100 kilograms. Any thoughts on WR250F or DRZ250? I'm trying to get sufficient power but lower weight and height.

Regards,

Shane
I'm just a bit under your weight and just sold my WR250F. Great bike ... but if I did it over ... I'd go with the WR450F. The Yamaha's are the most reliable and long lasting 450 dirt bikes. I know in Oz you get a lot of deep sand ... and that is where the 450 will save you and make you smile.

The 450 is just a couple kgs. heavier than the 250 but has A TON more power. It's is just a bit more sluggish on a fast, tight trail, but still just an excellent bike that will go 2 or 3 years hard riding before a top end is needed. (Keep valves in spec!, change oil)
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  #13  
Old 24 Jan 2014
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Good advice. I definately need to test one before I spend any money.
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  #14  
Old 26 Feb 2014
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Youtube tutorials

Check out a guy called muddysump on youtube ... he has a load of drz400 fixes up and they're great! Not needed to fix mine but I will have these videos to hand when I go travelling in case the worst occurs.
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